New to pinball machine, board help for Time Warp

Hello and good evening! Very very new to pinball machines and may have bit off more then I can chew. Only way I could afford a machine was to buy a broken one. Please don't judge. Anyways, forgive my termino, but the CPU board has some slight corrosion on battery pack, and looks like it dripped to the driver board and blew some resistors? I have photos. I was told the sound board may need work as well, but my eyes don't see it.
Are these original boards repairable? Who do you all trust to do the work?
I pulled 3 of the baords already except the power supply. It looks fine. The work under the playfield looks to be solid and nothing broken or coming apart solder wise.

Where do I start what do I do??? I am located in Indiana, on the state line of Ohio so close to Dayton and Indianapolis.
I'm in this machine at $500.....I know the value is about $1k or so though.....the cabinet, playfield, and glass all seem really really good given the age.

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#2 2 years ago

RIK

Rikoshay

Pinside member

looks to be nice and original, great colours in the backglass, you did well.

are you willing to start on your own tackling repairs or do you want to pay someone?

the battery leakage is the first area to take on imo, but all boards and their components, pins in connectors and so on will need a going over and the 40 pin inter connect replaced (joins the cpu to the driver board)

#3 2 years ago

SMK

TheLaw

Pinside+ Addict

Ann Arbor, MI

12y 162K 48,068 19 30 1

Quoted from Rikoshay:
...but all boards and their components, pins in connectors and so on will need a going over ....

Well we got some issues for sure

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#4 2 years ago

TNW

tristan2400

Inactive member

Quoted from Rikoshay:
looks to be nice and original, great colours in the backglass, you did well.
are you willing to start on your own tackling repairs or do you want to pay someone?
the battery leakage is the first area to take on imo, but all boards and their components, pins in connectors and so on will need a going over and the 40 pin inter connect replaced (joins the cpu to the driver board)

Thank you for the vote of confidence in the cosmetic condition, guess thats the only positive haha but yeah, I'm wioto start to learn. Paying is an option, but I would love to work with someone on the actual boards to learn that skill and lingo.

#5 2 years ago

TNW

tristan2400

Inactive member

Quoted from TheLaw:
Well we got some issues for sure[quoted image]

Soooooo how bad does it look? I reached out to this seller of services on eBay, think he his from Illinois. Says he can repair the board. Think it is salvageable? Or am I up the creek on this? I think this was the worst part of all the baords. The corrosion didn't seem bad around the battery box, or at least I've seen worse on products before.

#6 2 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Computer Extreme

9y 134K 15,521 31

OP
Quoted from tristan2400:
Soooooo how bad does it look? I reached out to this seller of services on eBay, think he his from Illinois. Says he can repair the board. Think it is salvageable? Or am I up the creek on this? I think this was the worst part of all the baords. The corrosion didn't seem bad around the battery box, or at least I've seen worse on products before.

Send it and any of the other damaged boards, to any of the fine repair people on pinside.

#7 2 years ago

MEV

RacingPin

Pinside+ Frequent

Marietta, GA

11y 70,050 848 48 1

OP
Quoted from tristan2400:
Soooooo how bad does it look? I reached out to this seller of services on eBay, think he his from Illinois. Says he can repair the board. Think it is salvageable? Or am I up the creek on this? I think this was the worst part of all the baords. The corrosion didn't seem bad around the battery box, or at least I've seen worse on products before.

Whatever you do .. do not send the boards to that guy on eBay. If it is not an easy fix for him he will string you along 6 months or so until you can’t complain on eBay and never send back the boards.

Those boards are very fixable though. You need to put the recommended upgraded resistors in place where the currently black burnt ones are. Looks like a trace/chip is damaged upstream from those burnt resistors. A couple of resistors, transistors and battery holder need replacing.

If you can solder you can fix them. Check pinwiki.com about the upgrade to the resistors and other tips.

As others said your other options are trusted board repair guys here on Pinside or just fix the battery holder on the main board and get a working/new driver board for $150/$200

Mike V

#8 2 years ago

RIK

Rikoshay

Pinside member

A lot of informative and helpful reading here: https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7

#9 2 years ago

BAX

Bax1

Pinside member

Westland, MI

10y 79,400 3,291 16

These can be fixed. doesn't look to horrible. will take time but can be fixed.

#10 2 years ago

RIK

Rikoshay

Pinside member

How are your soldering/desoldering skills? These are very important imo for continued longevity of the game working.
The skill of soldering takes time and practice.
A soldering iron station and desolderer/solder sucker, solder wick and solder are a must to start.....and not to put you off, just being realistic........ but there is a lot to be done on those boards before she'll light up, and you don't know the condition of the displays.

At a guess $100+ in parts and 20+ hours depending on far you want to go.

Maybe with the pics you have you can get a 'ball park' cost from a reputable repairer. IMO get advice for one here on Pinside.

Your power supply, sound board, cpu & driver boards all need attention and parts replaced.
Then there is the wiring loom and connectors......along with the switches, solenoids and lamps on the playfield to contend with.

Do you want to keep it original, or are you okay with aftermarket boards?

When she's done all the effort will be worth it and there are plenty of fellas here on Pinside with stacks of info to help you along the way.

#11 2 years ago

TNW

tristan2400

Inactive member

Quoted from RacingPin:
Whatever you do .. do not send the boards to that guy on eBay. If it is not an easy fix for him he will string you along 6 months or so until you can’t complain on eBay and never send back the boards.
Those boards are very fixable though. You need to put the recommended upgraded resistors in place where the currently black burnt ones are. Looks like a trace/chip is damaged upstream from those burnt resistors. A couple of resistors, transistors and battery holder need replacing.
If you can solder you can fix them. Check pinwiki.com about the upgrade to the resistors and other tips.
As others said your other options are trusted board repair guys here on Pinside or just fix the battery holder on the main board and get a working/new driver board for $150/$200
Mike V

Wow, did not think of the whole ebay process....I found his shop through some Google snooping but he is not listed here on pinside. I think I will stick with someone on here. I can solder, but it's been a few years. Thank you for the suggestions!!!

#12 2 years ago

TNW

tristan2400

Inactive member

Quoted from Rikoshay:
How are your soldering/desoldering skills? These are very important imo for continued longevity of the game working.
The skill of soldering takes time and practice.
A soldering iron station and desolderer/solder sucker, solder wick and solder are a must to start.....and not to put you off, just being realistic........ but there is a lot to be done on those boards before she'll light up, and you don't know the condition of the displays.
At a guess $100+ in parts and 20+ hours depending on far you want to go.
Maybe with the pics you have you can get a 'ball park' cost from a reputable repairer. IMO get advice for one here on Pinside.
Your power supply, sound board, cpu & driver boards all need attention and parts replaced.
Then there is the wiring loom and connectors......along with the switches, solenoids and lamps on the playfield to contend with.
Do you want to keep it original, or are you okay with aftermarket boards?
When she's done all the effort will be worth it and there are plenty of fellas here on Pinside with stacks of info to help you along the way.

I can solder, but I'm not sure I'm comfortable with computer boards haha I've done it in other applications, but nothing so sensitive. When it comes to the loom and connectors, switches and solenoids, what am I looking for? I lifted up the playfield and all the connections seem right and no bare wires etc., And soldered areas seem to be solid as well. I can upload a picture here in a bit. I thought about buying the led kit eventually and swapping out the bulbs.

So I will pop out the power supply board as well and take it of I find someone I suppose??

I'd like to just get it functional and playable. Mostly keep the artwork original. Is there a big difference in value later down the road in keeping it all original when it comes to the guts?

#13 2 years ago

TNW

tristan2400

Inactive member

This is the under playfield and other pictures to help anyone help me haha thanks a lot, all of you for helping a newborn to this hobby. Great community so far and the most help I've gotten with a forum!!!!

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#14 2 years ago

^^^

PINTEC

Pinside member

Chicago, IL

6y 51,550 513

Coils look ok usually the knocker coil shows burning however this one is clean

Player one display should be replaced as it is showing some burned segments the credit match board shows a burned resistor this is likely related to player one problem.

Very common to see burned resistors on the driver caused by a stuck cpu and allows higher current to run thru the lamp resistors

An upgrade can be done to eliminate them.

Replace all capacitors

Batteries can be eliminated to avoid future corrosion problems.

Replace the 40 pin connector between the cpu and driverboard.

Replace all scanbe sockets the upper row of Roms ic 26,22,and,21 seated in the scanbe sockets could be eliminated using a combo rom at IC 14

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#15 2 years ago

RIK

Rikoshay

Pinside member