(Topic ID: 195870)

New to EM repair

By Tacosid

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • 77 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by pacmanretro
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There are 77 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 4 years ago

Sorry sorry, I meant your camera was focused on the screws, not focus on the screws.

My only screw comment a few posts ago was just make sure the 2 screws near where wires are soldered are snug. They can be a little lose leaving whole switch stack loose.

#52 4 years ago

With no power to machine, use your multi meter set to continuity (or resistance), put one lead on each of the 2 switch blade tabs (where the wires are soldered). Check that the switch is open and when you use rollover the switch closes. Should be easy enough to check on that one.

#53 4 years ago

Excellent idea. Thank you. I will try that as soon as I get home!

#54 4 years ago

Ok, cool. IF it does in fact open and close properly, then move on to checking all your fuses. Make sure they are all good and of correct value (correct value is very important to protect your machine of course).

We can all go from there

#55 4 years ago

Where are you located? Maybe we'll get Nick to pay a house call

#56 4 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Where are you located? Maybe we'll get Nick to pay a house call

I totally respect privacy, but sometimes I do wish people would put even just general area they are in (not picking on you tacosid, just in general)....because of things like who is in area to help.

Like if Taco needed to borrow a few test leads or something and was close enough to pick up, I totally would. Or, If I was comfortable, maybe even stop at his place if he was local to offer a second set of eyes on the prob.

#57 4 years ago

Sort of off the beaten path. Wilmington NC.

#58 4 years ago
Quoted from pacmanretro:

With no power to machine, use your multi meter set to continuity (or resistance), put one lead on each of the 2 switch blade tabs (where the wires are soldered). Check that the switch is open and when you use rollover the switch closes. Should be easy enough to check on that one.

You may not get an accurate read on the continuity unless one of the wires is desoldered from the switch. It's the same with checking a fuse in circuit. You have to pull at least one end of the fuse out of the holder.

#59 4 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

You may not get an accurate read on the continuity unless one of the wires is desoldered from the switch. It's the same with checking a fuse in circuit. You have to pull at least one end of the fuse out of the holder.

I totally agree with you! That you "may" not. Due to other things in circuit, certainly.

I just wanted to drop it down to a super basic starting point and go from there. I was thinking that, in this circuit, he should be able to see an open/close....then, if he didn't, planned on moving on from there.

Maybe even suggesting remove one wire to check....etc.

Tacosid, for now, just try what I explained and lets see where we are at from there.

#60 4 years ago

Super basic is awesome.

#61 4 years ago

I have continuity open and closed on both the good and bad switch so that's pretty inconclusive.

Here is a better pic of the switch. Seems like I have it pretty close to the good one now.

IMG_0304 (resized).JPG

#62 4 years ago

Not sounding like a jerk, but you went from blurry pic to too dark...

Anyway, so what you are saying is that "yes, it reads open and when I use rollover switch, it reads closed" correct?

#63 4 years ago

Sorry... it's dark out there.

I get a beep on both sides no matter what position the switch is in.

#64 4 years ago

take it apart... in the video you sent me something was buzzing... a lot of times it could be the 110v hold or maybe the ball unit.

#65 4 years ago

Pinhead, I dont understand your message...sorry.

Taco!, are you saying it beeps no matter what??? So, you are not getting an open and a closed?

Im getting confused. Sorry

#66 4 years ago

take the switch apart... you can then ensure its not shorted

#67 4 years ago

Right now when I put the leads where the wires connect I get a beep when it's just sitting there and when i open the roll over. On both the good and bad. Gonna try to take a video

#68 4 years ago

Better pic?

IMG_0306 (resized).JPG

#69 4 years ago

I have a video but I don't see where to load it

#70 4 years ago

Ok, well...there IS always a possibility that there are other switches in circuit causing it to seem "closed".

I just didnt think this particular one would do that.

Ok, so this will be annoying, BUT....can you please disconnect one of the wires (either one) by unsoldering or cutting.

Then, re check ti see if switch opens and closes according to Meter.

#71 4 years ago

I honestly still can't see much in pic...I'm honesty confused as to wether it is physically shorting or not...I just cant tell in a single pic. Sorry

#72 4 years ago

Ok. When I disconnected a wire and put the leads on I did not get a continuity beep. But when I pressed the roll over switch to make the connection it did beep.

that means the problem is somewhere else right?

#73 4 years ago
Quoted from Tacosid:

Ok. When I disconnected a wire and put the leads on I did not get a continuity beep. But when I pressed the roll over switch to make the connection it did beep.
that means the problem is somewhere else right?

Yes, that sounds like the switch is working ok now. Some times it is hard to check the switch when it is hooked up due to other switches/wires/coils etc that may also be hooked to it, hence temporarily disconnecting the wire.

Have you checked all your fuses yet?

#74 4 years ago

I haven't. But that one switch is the only thing not working. Could there be a fuse that just controls that one switch?

#75 4 years ago
Quoted from Tacosid:

I haven't. But that one switch is the only thing not working. Could there be a fuse that just controls that one switch?

I see what your saying. You have the 24v on,everything else...I wouldn't think there was a,separate fuse just for that.

Still, I would certainly check thru them and make sure they are correct values etc as a,precaution.

Without the wiring diagram in front of me, kind of hard to know. When you get the one you ordered, that should help a lot.

You could still have a broken or loose wire/connection elswhere, or a burned out/stuck coil...

It just seems very odd that it was working fine until you lifted playfield. That's why I keep going back to thinking its something that got messed up when open. Hence the mangled switch.

There is a possibility that the switch got mangled causing a coil to be stuck on until it burned out; so now switch is fixed, but coil is bad. But I would guess you most likely would have noticed a hot coil burning up, maybe not.

Best thing is going to certainly be look at diagram and see everything that is hooked into that. Then you will know all other areas to check.

#76 4 years ago

Can you tell for certain that a coil is burnt from the outside?

#77 4 years ago
Quoted from Tacosid:

Can you tell for certain that a coil is burnt from the outside?

Not always for certain as they can go bad/weak without being super nasty, but if you see one that is really burnt up looking etc, it is,certainly worth checking out.

There are 77 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

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