(Topic ID: 71209)

New speakers on my AC /DC....AHhhhhhh


By cal50

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 34 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by aerobert
  • Topic is favorited by 35 Pinsiders

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#1 6 years ago

AC/Dc pro that I am really digging. No complaints about the game but I find the speakers lacking. I upgraded a few of my other games speakers and none are music based pins but I noticed a huge improvement so AC /DC deserves the same treatment.

What I ordered-

Coaxial panel speakers-

https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pl42bl-blue-label-4-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-078

Cab speaker-

https://www.parts-express.com/goldwood-gw-8024-8-butyl-surround-woofer-4-ohm--290-356

"L" -pad-

https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-l-pad-attenuator-50w-mono-3-8-shaft-8-ohm--260-252

Lo Pass filter-

https://www.parts-express.com/100-hz-low-pass-4-ohm-crossover--266-444

Total = $79.57 Shipped

I did not want a powered sub. A better sub cranks out the bass and is enough for my taste. This is a 4 ohm sub with a lo pass filter to keep the bass where it belongs by itself. The panel speakers made a HUGE difference in the range of sounds you can actually hear and less muddy. The "L" pad let you balance it out to your taste and I have not hit the perfect spot between "L" pad adjustment and the sound level adjustment in the service menu. Right now I have the music set at "13" and the voice at "15" with my main volume set at 48 and it sounds 100% better. Bass is deep and strong enough to shake the glass so I did the electrical tape trick around the glass ( 3 sides top and 2 sides) and no more rattle.

The only things you need to fabricate or buy are some speaker standoffs ( .400 in length X 8 pieces) and a bracket for mounting the "L" pad. I put mine in the back box .I also used a 2-pin connector for the speaker hook-up in case you want to remove the panel without un-soldering the speaker wires.

Wiring is pretty much straight forward.

Whats better than having improved sound ?
Having a nice game listening to some good tunes!

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#2 6 years ago

I forgot to add IF you run speakers with stand offs ( spacers) you loose a good bit of sound if you do not seal the standoff space. I cut down a couple pieces of beer seal ( lock down bar sealing strip) which wrapped around and sealed the panel speakers perfectly.

It makes a HUGE difference in volume level / sound loss sealing the speakers to panel.

#3 6 years ago

Awesome, drive over and help me upgrade mine please

Bill

#4 6 years ago

Sweet thanks! I have a partsexpress right down the street...may just go pick this up and add it to mine.

#5 5 years ago
Quoted from BillP:

Awesome, drive over and help me upgrade mine please
Bill

If I get the time a road trip is possible!

#6 5 years ago

A few pics would make sense.....

The cab speaker is a direct replacement. Unbolt the old speaker , remove and place the new speaker on the studs.
BE CAREFUL not to puncture the new speaker lining up the holes / post.

The "L" pad has the input and output sides marked on the back side. Its a plastic board and you need to drill a couple mounting holes thru it. You can use the old speaker screws to mount it. The posts are marked "+" and "-" so its straight forward.

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#7 5 years ago

The upper speaker replacement and wiring is a little more involved but not hard. Unscrew the old speaker mounting screws and the filter cap screw and remove them.

You will have a small pile like this:

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#8 5 years ago

The replacement speakers are coaxial and the front part protrudes so you need spacers to mount them correctly.
Once you have spacers I used #8 screws thru the spacer to mount the speakers to the panel.

Once mounted and wired be sure to seal the opening or gap around the speakers. If you do not you will loose a LOT of sound into the back box and defeats some of your efforts. Beer seal works great and most of us have it on hand. I simply lay it out flat and use a razor knife to cut about 1/3 of it away. The remaining 2/3 fits perfectly between the speaker and the mounting surface.

Make sure that the screws you use to mount the speakers are not too long, you do not want them dimpling or sticking thru the front of the panel once the speakers are mounted. Drop a screw thru one of the speaker mounting holes , slide on a spacer and set it on the edge of the speaker panel. You can then make sure the screw is not too long. You can adjust your spacer thickness to accommodate.

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#9 5 years ago

Once this is complete you need to wire it up. The "L" pad has a wiring diagram on the box or you can use a schematic to similar hookups. I made a mounting bracket for the "L" pad and attached it to the back box. Put it far enough back so you can put the translite back on with the knob attached to the "L" pad. I use a quick connect for the wiring if I want to remove the display panel.

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#10 5 years ago

That's about it and you should have better sound up top and LOTS of bass out the bottom. The bass is enough to rattle the glass which sucks. Three strips of 3M electric tape on the glass edges solved that annoyance.

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#11 5 years ago

Man seriously thanks for posting this, I'm an amateur when it comes to pinball audio, I was looking for a guide like this.

#12 5 years ago

Dude this was a fine thread

All productive & illustrated n shit

Thanks for the walkthrough I'm gonna save this as a favorite for when it's time to upgrade the audio on my LOTR, FGY & TSPP!

#13 5 years ago

A link with an excellent wiring diagram

http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_sound_info.html#newwiring

I used the one on the bottom of the page.

#14 5 years ago

Just picked up FF kit, congrats!

#15 5 years ago

Nice DIY Alternative to PP and FF. GJ, OP!

-W

#16 5 years ago

Thanks for the detailed write up and links.

Now it is up to me to decide if I wish to tackle something like this for my Getaway...but appreciate the time you took for making this info available.

#17 5 years ago

Electrical tape around the playfield glass is the most brilliant idea I've seen today! Is that a thing, or did you come up with it yourself?

#18 5 years ago

Thank you, a DIY that I might even be able to tackle!

#19 5 years ago
Quoted from mot:

Electrical tape around the playfield glass is the most brilliant idea I've seen today! Is that a thing, or did you come up with it yourself?

I cant take credit for the tape idea, I am certain I saw a variation of it somewhere and never needed it until now.

One thing to add about the tape~ It seems to work better if you do NOT stretch it out and apply it. Just pull the same length as the glass edge and fold it over. If you stretch it thin it still works but not as well IMHO. Also if you take the glass off and on a lot the stretched tape tends to tear easier than the non-stretched and folded tape.

There are likely products designed to do the same job but electrical tape is available about anywhere and cheap.

#20 5 years ago

I like the crisp photoshop arrows. Mine never end up looking like that when i'm drawing on pictures.

#21 5 years ago

I'm going to try out the tape on the glass method to tone down the rattle on my Tron. Thanks for the tip!

#22 5 years ago

Those are 4 ohm speakers I thought that was taboo and you could only use 8ohm speakers.

#23 5 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

I like the crisp photoshop arrows. Mine never end up looking like that when i'm drawing on pictures.

All those arrows and not a single Indian.....

(Tweak your Photoshop settings)

#24 5 years ago
Quoted from magnoliarichj:

Those are 4 ohm speakers I thought that was taboo and you could only use 8ohm speakers.

I think that was discussed somewhere in this related thread -
(The Stern AMP is reported to be 4 ohm capable )

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stock-stern-speakers-vs-ff-frequency-response

Another reference thread-

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/massively-improve-your-acdc-premiumle-sound-under-80

#25 5 years ago

it's not my photoshop settings, it's me not knowing how to actually draw something with the Pen tool.

#26 5 years ago
Quoted from magnoliarichj:

Those are 4 ohm speakers I thought that was taboo and you could only use 8ohm speakers.

I was guessing that the the crossover is 4 ohms plus the 4 ohm woofer = the 8 ohms needed.
RIght?

Brian

#28 5 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

depends on how you wire them.

true Captain, i wasn't thinking parallel versus series.

1 week later
#29 5 years ago

A simplified wiring diagram with load values-

http://www.eminence.com/support/wiring-diagrams/

#30 5 years ago
Quoted from cal50:

If I get the time a road trip is possible!

Having a pinball event next Friday, IM me if your interested in coming.

Bill

#31 5 years ago
Quoted from magnoliarichj:

Those are 4 ohm speakers I thought that was taboo and you could only use 8ohm speakers.

If you use 4 ohm speakers then you need to wire them in series. If they are wires in parallel then the amp will see an unsafe load. However, the lpad presents a load to the amp and the ones parts express sells are either 4 or 8 ohms. So he is probably ok. Best is to measure impedance at the sound board connector.

Quoted from bpull:

I was guessing that the the crossover is 4 ohms plus the 4 ohm woofer = the 8 ohms needed.
RIght?
Brian

The crossover is probably insignificant here. Net result is likely a 4 ohm load at the sub amp. No problem.

#32 5 years ago

Try a headphone kit with a good set of over ears. Trust me BIB rocks

#33 5 years ago

Grrrreat! Thread. I'll put some electrical tape on my games on route that would benefit from it.

4 years later
#34 1 year ago

Necrobumping this one.

How does it work with a mono L-pad when Data East/Sega/Stern is using Stereo, and speakers at 4ohm for the most part. How do you connect it?

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