AC/Dc pro that I am really digging. No complaints about the game but I find the speakers lacking. I upgraded a few of my other games speakers and none are music based pins but I noticed a huge improvement so AC /DC deserves the same treatment.

What I ordered-

Coaxial panel speakers-

https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pl42bl-blue-label-4-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-078

Cab speaker-

https://www.parts-express.com/goldwood-gw-8024-8-butyl-surround-woofer-4-ohm--290-356

"L" -pad-

https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-l-pad-attenuator-50w-mono-3-8-shaft-8-ohm--260-252

Lo Pass filter-

https://www.parts-express.com/100-hz-low-pass-4-ohm-crossover--266-444

Total = $79.57 Shipped

I did not want a powered sub. A better sub cranks out the bass and is enough for my taste. This is a 4 ohm sub with a lo pass filter to keep the bass where it belongs by itself. The panel speakers made a HUGE difference in the range of sounds you can actually hear and less muddy. The "L" pad let you balance it out to your taste and I have not hit the perfect spot between "L" pad adjustment and the sound level adjustment in the service menu. Right now I have the music set at "13" and the voice at "15" with my main volume set at 48 and it sounds 100% better. Bass is deep and strong enough to shake the glass so I did the electrical tape trick around the glass ( 3 sides top and 2 sides) and no more rattle.

The only things you need to fabricate or buy are some speaker standoffs ( .400 in length X 8 pieces) and a bracket for mounting the "L" pad. I put mine in the back box .I also used a 2-pin connector for the speaker hook-up in case you want to remove the panel without un-soldering the speaker wires.

Wiring is pretty much straight forward.

Whats better than having improved sound ?
Having a nice game listening to some good tunes!

acdc.jpg

I forgot to add IF you run speakers with stand offs ( spacers) you loose a good bit of sound if you do not seal the standoff space. I cut down a couple pieces of beer seal ( lock down bar sealing strip) which wrapped around and sealed the panel speakers perfectly.

It makes a HUGE difference in volume level / sound loss sealing the speakers to panel.

If I get the time a road trip is possible!

A few pics would make sense.....

The cab speaker is a direct replacement. Unbolt the old speaker , remove and place the new speaker on the studs.
BE CAREFUL not to puncture the new speaker lining up the holes / post.

The "L" pad has the input and output sides marked on the back side. Its a plastic board and you need to drill a couple mounting holes thru it. You can use the old speaker screws to mount it. The posts are marked "+" and "-" so its straight forward.

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The upper speaker replacement and wiring is a little more involved but not hard. Unscrew the old speaker mounting screws and the filter cap screw and remove them.

You will have a small pile like this:

DSC_0008.JPG

The replacement speakers are coaxial and the front part protrudes so you need spacers to mount them correctly.
Once you have spacers I used #8 screws thru the spacer to mount the speakers to the panel.

Once mounted and wired be sure to seal the opening or gap around the speakers. If you do not you will loose a LOT of sound into the back box and defeats some of your efforts. Beer seal works great and most of us have it on hand. I simply lay it out flat and use a razor knife to cut about 1/3 of it away. The remaining 2/3 fits perfectly between the speaker and the mounting surface.

Make sure that the screws you use to mount the speakers are not too long, you do not want them dimpling or sticking thru the front of the panel once the speakers are mounted. Drop a screw thru one of the speaker mounting holes , slide on a spacer and set it on the edge of the speaker panel. You can then make sure the screw is not too long. You can adjust your spacer thickness to accommodate.

DSC_0007.JPGDSC_0005.JPG

Once this is complete you need to wire it up. The "L" pad has a wiring diagram on the box or you can use a schematic to similar hookups. I made a mounting bracket for the "L" pad and attached it to the back box. Put it far enough back so you can put the translite back on with the knob attached to the "L" pad. I use a quick connect for the wiring if I want to remove the display panel.

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That's about it and you should have better sound up top and LOTS of bass out the bottom. The bass is enough to rattle the glass which sucks. Three strips of 3M electric tape on the glass edges solved that annoyance.

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A link with an excellent wiring diagram

http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_sound_info.html#newwiring

I used the one on the bottom of the page.

I cant take credit for the tape idea, I am certain I saw a variation of it somewhere and never needed it until now.

One thing to add about the tape~ It seems to work better if you do NOT stretch it out and apply it. Just pull the same length as the glass edge and fold it over. If you stretch it thin it still works but not as well IMHO. Also if you take the glass off and on a lot the stretched tape tends to tear easier than the non-stretched and folded tape.

There are likely products designed to do the same job but electrical tape is available about anywhere and cheap.

All those arrows and not a single Indian.....

(Tweak your Photoshop settings)

I think that was discussed somewhere in this related thread -
(The Stern AMP is reported to be 4 ohm capable )

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stock-stern-speakers-vs-ff-frequency-response

Another reference thread-

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/massively-improve-your-acdc-premiumle-sound-under-80

A simplified wiring diagram with load values-

http://www.eminence.com/support/wiring-diagrams/