(Topic ID: 98221)

New Space Station Ramps!

By Freeplay40

9 years ago


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  • 418 posts
  • 59 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 18 days ago by Freeplay40
  • Topic is favorited by 27 Pinsiders

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There are 418 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 9.
#1 9 years ago

So, I started my involvement on this topic on another thread... "Space Station Ramp - Interest", which was actually started about 5 months ago by another Pinsider. He indicated that there was not enough interest for him to do these and hasn't really been back on here since..... There was enough interest and need for me to do it..so I decided I would follow through with it.

I had borrowed a friend's machine (Thanks, Roy!) to develop the mold for this. Some of you have seen, and purchased (thanks!) the clear ramp I did for High Speed and I started into this one with the intent to do another upgrade from a black ABS stock ramp with a clear one. I will be making a clear one, but due to popular demand, I have figured out a way to do a transparent blue one out of acrylic. The clear will be made form PETG plastic. PETG is much stronger than acrylic, but unless you are willing to order a couple thousand pounds, you cannot get it in colors. The PETG should be strong enough not to need any metal ball guides at the entrance. However, due to the fact that acrylic (plexiglass) is not as strong, I plan on riveting balls guides on both sides at the entrance.

I will sell a clear PETG pre-drilled for mounting as well as the upper right switch plate and with entrance flap installed for $100.

The Blue Acrylic with all of the above plus spring steel ball guides at the entrance for $125. The blue is tougher to source and I must order from out of state. Note that the spring steel I use is naturally dark blue in color, so with the exception of the rivet heads, it will blend in nicely.

I will consider doing a black ABS (personally...yuk!) for those that want one like the original. Pricing would be the same as the clear one.

There is some riveting involved with attaching parts from your existing ramp to the new ramp. Just like with High Speed if you want me to do this, you could send me the necessary parts removed from your ramp and I will polish and rivet to the new ramp for $8.... BUT... unlike High Speed where the rivets could actually affect ball travel, this is not as important on the Space Station ramp. So you might get away with using screws....maybe use some Loctite on the nuts and grind the heads down a little it they do affect the ball travel.... your call.

Shipping and handling... $15

I have ordered the clear PETG (Get that locally) and will order probably enough blue to do 24 ramps. I will start producing some clear ramps early next week and expect the blue will take 10 to 14 days to be in my hands.

I am also looking at some lighting mods for this ramp as well, triggered by the drop target at the entrance.... perhaps similar to the one Dennis_AZ had shown, but all done electronically. My son, Aaron with FAST Pinball, has got me interested in taking the mod to a new level with programmable color changing LED's and tapping into to various switches or modes on the game....that would be one way to express "green" mode. Anyway, more to come on this part.

Thanks everyone for your interest.... Mark

As info.... photo of test form on clear acrylic to see if the blue would be possible...

IMG_0523.JPGIMG_0523.JPG
#5 9 years ago

I'm really impressed with what you have done!
I was wondering if it is possible to spray the underside of the ramp with transparent paint to get the blue color?
I like the idea of the stronger clear PETG.

When I soldered the wires to the LED strip lighting, I used heat shrink tubing to protect the connection. I would recommend using a dab of clear RTV sealant instead. This is what I'll use in the future. Dabs of clear RTV is also what I used to attach the LED strip to the ramp. They recommend 24 hours for the RTV to setup.

Dennis

#6 9 years ago
Quoted from DennisAZ:

I'm really impressed with what you have done!
I was wondering if it is possible to spray the underside of the ramp with transparent paint to get the blue color?
I like the idea of the stronger clear PETG.
When I soldered the wires to the LED strip lighting, I used heat shrink tubing to protect the connection. I would recommend using a dab of clear RTV sealant instead. This is what I'll use in the future. Dabs of clear RTV is also what I used to attach the LED strip to the ramp. They recommend 24 hours for the RTV to setup.
Dennis

Thanks, man! My son left me some toys to play with... addressable LED's 'n stuff.

#7 9 years ago

Put me down for a blue.

I have to check when I get home about the riveting. It might be cheaper for me to buy the hardware to get it done though, shipping to you may just tip the scale... will figure it out though.

Thanks!

#8 9 years ago

Count me in also. Liking that blue...

#9 9 years ago

I'm in for a blue. Just starting my restore here!

#10 9 years ago
Quoted from DennisAZ:

I'm really impressed with what you have done!
I was wondering if it is possible to spray the underside of the ramp with transparent paint to get the blue color?
I like the idea of the stronger clear PETG.

While I'm waiting for my plastics, I was actually going to airbrush one of the test forms with Creatix transparent blue just to see what it does. Maybe finish with a clear coat. We'll see...

#11 9 years ago

Blue for me! I guess I'd better get back and make some more stations for the people that needs those too!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vacuum-formed-my-own-space-station

Brian

#14 9 years ago

Put me down for a blue as well.

#15 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I am also looking at some lighting mods for this ramp as well, triggered by the drop target at the entrance.... perhaps similar to the one Dennis_AZ had shown, but all done electronically. My son, Aaron with FAST Pinball, has got me interested in taking the mod to a new level with programmable color changing LED's and tapping into to various switches or modes on the game....that would be one way to express "green" mode. Anyway, more to come on this part.

Thanks everyone for your interest.... Mark

Here is a picture of the mounting of the magnetic reed switch. You might be able to make out the dab of RTV that holds the rare earth magnet. When the drop target is down, the magnet closes the reed switch which turns on the LEDs strips on each side of the ramp. You should also see the hole I drilled for the LED wires to pass through the playfield. I also found out that reed switch works better if it is offset a little from center.

Dennis

Magnetic reed switch.jpgMagnetic reed switch.jpg

#16 9 years ago

Looks like there will be a lot of black ramps up on eBay soon.

#17 9 years ago
Quoted from bpull:

Blue for me! I guess I'd better get back and make some more stations for the people that needs those too!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vacuum-formed-my-own-space-station
Brian

Great idea, yours are super.

#19 9 years ago
Quoted from DennisAZ:

Here is a picture of the mounting of the magnetic reed switch. You might be able to make out the dab of RTV that holds the rare earth magnet. When the drop target is down, the magnet closes the reed switch which turns on the LEDs strips on each side of the ramp. You should also see the hole I drilled for the LED wires to pass through the playfield. I also found out that reed switch works better if it is offset a little from center.
Dennis

Magnetic reed switch.jpg 90 KB

For me it's hard to tell what's what.

#20 9 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

For me it's hard to tell what's what.

Its the cream colored box on the 2 orange spacers they are normaly used for home security systems looks like a radio shack one.

#21 9 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

For me it's hard to tell what's what.

That's OK, here is a picture of the components:
Two spacers, a magnetic reed switch opened up, another switch showing the contacts, and a couple of rare earth magnets. The spacers were cut to fit the machine. The switch is located just above the circuit board for the drop target.

Reed switch.jpgReed switch.jpg

#22 9 years ago
Quoted from Hellfire:

Its the cream colored box on the 2 orange spacers they are normaly used for home security systems looks like a radio shack one.

Much better. I've never seen a reed switch before. Thanks.

#23 9 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Nice. Did you remove the pf mylar?

No - taking mylar off sys 11s gives me nightmares...

#24 9 years ago

I am in for a couple sets as well.

#25 9 years ago

I sent a pm on this as well...
Any possibility of selling a complete ramp with all hardware, switch, and maybe light mods, I'd like to possibly have a complete swapable situation

#26 9 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Any possibility of selling a complete ramp with all hardware, switch, and maybe light mods, I'd like to possibly have a complete swapable situation

I think I could, but it would all be custom fabrication and likely the existing leaf switch set up replaced with a micro switch which would likely mount much cleaner. hmmmm

Still working on the lighting mod.

#27 9 years ago

Count me in for a ramp, I would prefer Blue if possible!

#28 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I think I could, but it would all be custom fabrication and likely the existing leaf switch set up replaced with a micro switch which would likely mount much cleaner. hmmmm
Still working on the lighting mod.

Your a one stop shop Mark. I would think that by you selling a drop in ramp it would pay for itself on our end and your end also. The switch with the plug added would only add a few bucks (not really sure how much) but would save everyone a lot of shipping money and time.

#29 9 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Your a one stop shop Mark. I would think that by you selling a drop in ramp it would pay for itself on our end and your end also. The switch with the plug added would only add a few bucks (not really sure how much) but would save everyone a lot of shipping money and time.

OK... I'll give it some serious thought. Probably use the test acrylic I did to make a prototype.

#30 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

OK... I'll give it some serious thought.

Thanks Mark, take as much time as you need. No hurry on my end.

#31 9 years ago

I don't mind drilling and re-riveting my switch - so if you crank out a few clears - I'm ready when you are. I have my game apart right now, so this would be perfect timing.

#32 9 years ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

I don't mind drilling and re-riveting my switch - so if you crank out a few clears - I'm ready when you are. I have my game apart right now, so this would be perfect timing.

I won't have the clear plastic until sometime Tuesday. I could probably get one out to you via USPS Priority possibly Wednesday or Thursday (Still need to set up a few things). I'll keep you posted.

#33 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I won't have the clear plastic until sometime Tuesday. I could probably get one out to you via USPS Priority possibly Wednesday or Thursday (Still need to set up a few things). I'll keep you posted.

I'm not going to finish it that quick - I'm working 3 -4 pins at a time.

#34 9 years ago

I'm in for one, likely the clear but maybe a blue. How does the blue look with the green lights on?

#35 9 years ago
Quoted from PalomarAmusement:

I'm in for one, likely the clear but maybe a blue. How does the blue look with the green lights on?

I don't actually have a blue ramp cut out yet. The only one I have actually broke during the forming process (Cast acrylic....using extruded acrylic going forward). I will be picking up locally the clear PETG on Tuesday. The blue acrylic is being shipped cross country and I hope to have it late next week. As soon as I get the blue I will get one formed and cut out right away so I can post photos.

#36 9 years ago

So... another option. I had a request to provide pricing for a "plug and play" ramp. In other words, I would fabricate the small metal ball stop and provide the switch in the upper right lane. While I'm waiting for my plastic, I am going to complete one of my first forms to see what is involved to do this. The stock switch plate is not something that is available to purchase, so must come up with a substitute. What I've found is a generic switch plate and a micro switch that will work. This would allow you to simply remove your ramp and install the new one. I will do this for an additional $20 if I am successful. I will post when I've finished the test ramp.

So, if your existing ramp is in good shape, you won't have to destroy/disable it for the new ramp...just keep is as a backup. If you ramp is beyond saving, you would be better off to send me your parts and I will install.

I will need to order the switch plates and micro switches, so would appreciate if you could indicate any interest in this latest "option".

Thanks... Mark

#37 9 years ago

Yeah not to disrespect anyone but I would lust want a plain ramp preferably with the slot cut for the switch there is too much chance of someone being unsatisfied switch clearance might be off etc.

Being blue its already a mad part i for one rather do my own switch installation since blue i would add decal and the switch would be in the way most likely.
I want a blue ramp but same time i dont want to see the bulbs under it so i would have to do other mods. realy changing out a switch is simple its kind of a waste of the ops time to do the extra labor and have to find/make new parts having a new ramp is the most valuable service that can be provided atm.

#38 9 years ago

I would be interested in a "full ramp" setup. I dont have a rivet press and i think $20 is a small price to pay for not having to drill out the rivets the original ramp and press inn new ones.

Thanks for offering this option!

#39 9 years ago
Quoted from Hellfire:

Yeah not to disrespect anyone but I would lust want a plain ramp preferably with the slot cut for the switch there is too much chance of someone being unsatisfied switch clearance might be off etc.
Being blue its already a mad part i for one rather do my own switch installation since blue i would add decal and the switch would be in the way most likely.
I want a blue ramp but same time i dont want to see the bulbs under it so i would have to do other mods. realy changing out a switch is simple its kind of a waste of the ops time to do the extra labor and have to find/make new parts having a new ramp is the most valuable service that can be provided atm.

No disrespect taken...at least by me. Personally, I if was buying a new ramp, I would approach it the same as you. In your case, in addition to not wanting the switch mounting holes pre-drilled, I probably wouldn't even want the mini-ball stop rivet hole pre-drilled....I think a small piece of foam would work better. But,...what I have found is that not everyone is experienced with the work necessary to install a new ramp. When I did the High Speed ramp, I offered similar options for me to do the assembly, and at least 90% took that route. I offered the service because I did not want folks to receive their new ramp, then scratch their head with the amount of work remaining to get it installed. Note that if you bought a generic black reproduction, you would be faced with the same work to get it installed.

I offer this stuff just to make it easier for folks to enjoy while keeping the associated cost reasonable....very reasonable in this case!

#40 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I offer this stuff just to make it easier for folks to enjoy while keeping the associated cost reasonable....very reasonable in this case!

or for people not in murica where shipping would be drastically more than just paying to to install the parts

I'm down for a full plug and play blue. I forgot the even check my machine lol...

#41 9 years ago

Hey, this is the original pinsider with Space Station ideals as noted in the first post. I am excited that you are going to do these. Put me down for a plug and play Blue one and a plug and play Clear one (yes, I have two Space Stations)!

Also, do you think you'll do the Space Station part of it? One of mine is warped, but still functional, and I gather that a few other owners have had that problem also (not like the ramp, but still).

Thanks for closing the deal!

#42 9 years ago
Quoted from TimeTraveler:

Also, do you think you'll do the Space Station part of it? One of mine is warped, but still functional, and I gather that a few other owners have had that problem also (not like the ramp, but still).

Quoted from bpull:

I guess I'd better get back and make some more stations for the people that needs those too!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vacuum-formed-my-own-space-station
Brian

#43 9 years ago

He needs the black part of the space station that the ball travels on.

#44 9 years ago

Put me down for a blue one with the "works". Even the light mod when ya come up with one. I'm hoping it's el wire.

#45 9 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Put me down for a blue one with the "works". Even the light mod when ya come up with one. I'm hoping it's el wire.

I haven't played with EL wire yet. I need to get into it to figure out the electronics side of it...brightness based on length. All the kits I've looked at so far just have a set length based on a prescribed power. Last night I successfully tested my theory for hooking up an LED mod to the existing Opto switch on Space Station. I will be able to optimize the brightness based on number of LED's (Done with resistors). Once I establish the maximum safe brightness, I will also include a dimmer if they need to be toned down.

#46 9 years ago

Count me in for a clear one.

#47 9 years ago

El wire is too dim it looks kinda crappy if you use leds in the machine also elk wore dosnt have a reliable life span to risk ruining a nice new ramp over.
You can buy set lengths of el-wire it can be cut and spliced but its a bit tedious, the transformers are unreliable over time and can cause EMF interference on the machine LV electronics if the field is absorbed by surrounding wire esp the switch matrix.

#48 9 years ago
Quoted from Hellfire:

El wore is too dim it looks kinda crappy if you use leds in the machine also elk wore dosnt have a reliable life span to risk ruining a nice new ramp over.
You can buy set lengths of el-wire it can be cut and spliced but its a bit tedious, the Transformers are unreliable over time and can cause EMF interference on the machine LV electronics if the field is absorbed by surrounding wire esp the switch matrix.

I had emf interference when I tried it on a stern transformers

#49 9 years ago
Quoted from Hellfire:

El wire is too dim it looks kinda crappy if you use leds in the machine also elk wore dosnt have a reliable life span to risk ruining a nice new ramp over.
You can buy set lengths of el-wire it can be cut and spliced but its a bit tedious, the Transformers are unreliable over time and can cause EMF interference on the machine LV electronics if the field is absorbed by surrounding wire esp the switch matrix.

Quoted from WeirPinball:

I had emf interference when I tried it on a stern Transformers

Thanks for the input, guys. Pretty much one less thing I have to explore!

#50 9 years ago

OK, you guys are the experts so I withdraw my request.

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