(Topic ID: 304694)

New SB-100 Sound Board (Trident) - Any one use these

By 67cutlass

6 days ago


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  • 24 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by barakandl
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 6 days ago

While doing some research on my SB-100, for my Trident, that hasn't worked in over 10 years, I found the following website that is offering NEW direct replacements.

https://nvram.weebly.com/stern-sb-100.html

I sent them an email asking if this would work in my Stern Trident. They replied with "Yes. Except there is no chime simulation (higher pitch tones), but that is missing from most original SB100s anyways."

My questions are:
Would this really be a direct replacement for my current SB-100?
If there is no chime simulation, would this even be anything my Trident would've had? I'm thinking not.
Has anyone tried one of these? And if so, their thoughts?

On my current sound board the wire connectors on the bottom (see picture) is missing and they soldered the wires directly on the pins. What's the easiest way of connecting these to the board? I don't know how to re-pin connectors. Is there an idiot proof way of doing it? My thinking would be trying to find the connects with wires attached and then connect them to the wires I already have. Not ideal, but it would work.

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#2 6 days ago

Trident doesn't support chime simulation, it was only implemented on earlier SB-100 based Stern games such as Lectronamo and Wild Fyre.
Trident shipped with SB-100 that did not have the simulated chime support, so the Weebly board is a direct replacement.

While Stern Dracula and Nugent software supported chime simulation, the SB-100 they were shipped with had the chime simulation components deleted.

Quoted from 67cutlass:

Is there an idiot proof way of doing it? My thinking would be trying to find the connects with wires attached and then connect them to the wires I already have. Not ideal, but it would work.

Whatever you do, don't solder wires directly to the sound board. Look up how to install/crimp connectors, they're not hard to do.
Ask the board seller if he by chance has a pair of connectors he could supply.

#3 6 days ago
Quoted from 67cutlass:

While doing some research on my SB-100, for my Trident, that hasn't worked in over 10 years, I found the following website that is offering NEW direct replacements.
https://nvram.weebly.com/stern-sb-100.html
I sent them an email asking if this would work in my Stern Trident. They replied with "Yes. Except there is no chime simulation (higher pitch tones), but that is missing from most original SB100s anyways."
My questions are:
Would this really be a direct replacement for my current SB-100?
If there is no chime simulation, would this even be anything my Trident would've had? I'm thinking not.
Has anyone tried one of these? And if so, their thoughts?
On my current sound board the wire connectors on the bottom (see picture) is missing and they soldered the wires directly on the pins. What's the easiest way of connecting these to the board? I don't know how to re-pin connectors. Is there an idiot proof way of doing it? My thinking would be trying to find the connects with wires attached and then connect them to the wires I already have. Not ideal, but it would work.[quoted image][quoted image]

The Weebly boards work excellent.

#4 6 days ago
Quoted from 67cutlass:

While doing some research on my SB-100, for my Trident, that hasn't worked in over 10 years, I found the following website that is offering NEW direct replacements.
https://nvram.weebly.com/stern-sb-100.html
I sent them an email asking if this would work in my Stern Trident. They replied with "Yes. Except there is no chime simulation (higher pitch tones), but that is missing from most original SB100s anyways."
My questions are:
Would this really be a direct replacement for my current SB-100?
If there is no chime simulation, would this even be anything my Trident would've had? I'm thinking not.
Has anyone tried one of these? And if so, their thoughts?
On my current sound board the wire connectors on the bottom (see picture) is missing and they soldered the wires directly on the pins. What's the easiest way of connecting these to the board? I don't know how to re-pin connectors. Is there an idiot proof way of doing it? My thinking would be trying to find the connects with wires attached and then connect them to the wires I already have. Not ideal, but it would work.[quoted image][quoted image]

Easy to learn how to crimp connectors. A few practice attempts and you will have it down. Most hate soldering.

#5 6 days ago

Simple order list for what you need to re-pin these:
- amazon.com link »
- https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=08-52-0113
- https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=09-50-8091
- https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=15-04-0297-STRIP

I would recommend ordering plenty of extra header pins, as well as these for the smaller connectors:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=08-52-0123
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=15-04-9209

It's safe to assume if someone's hacked a board like the sound board, you'll have more connectors that need re-pinning. It's a little tedious but SO WORTH DOING. Here's a pic of some aftermath of me re-pinning ALL the head connectors on my Big Game project last week.

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#6 6 days ago

Below is a video showing how to repin connectors using a ratcheting crimper like play_pinball links to. With a ratcheting crimper, you can make both crimps at the same time and the crimps will be perfect. Using on old fashioned crimper you have to make two crimps by hand, whereas with a ratcheting crimper it's more of an automatic type process.

I recommend at a minimum, re-crimping the wires and installing new connectors for the rectifier board and the sound board.

#7 6 days ago

Both great post!

#8 6 days ago

Ok. Not sure what most of that stuff is, but I used the list above as my shopping list and ordered a few extras. Bought the crimping tool too. If I remember correctly, out of the 18 pins, only like 5 or 6 were used. I'll get a picture to make sure everything looks right on the current board before I cut the wires off.

#9 6 days ago

Lots of us here to help! If you see any connectors with burnt spots, green gunk, or if the wires pull out of the connector without much effort, you'll need to re-pin those.

Rest assured: if I can do this, you can too!

Trident is an incredible, underrated game! I've had mine for over 20 years.

#10 6 days ago

Thanks for the help. It's much appreciated. I was trying to find one in a little better shape, but haven't been able to locally. The game holds a special sentimental value being the first solid state and last pinball my Dad got at his tavern before he had to close to take care of my grandmother. The Operator came in and collected money after he closed, but left the pinball/jukebox/pool table open, so basically free play before they came in and collected the machines. As an 11 year old kid, I was in heaven. Thinking about this, I've probably had this machine for around 19 years. My kids have never heard the sound (we've played at MGC, it couldn't really hear it).

#11 6 days ago

You may find this interesting. I like the sound of chimes. I had an old SB 100 board with the chime components. With a lot of help from my friend he changed the code on my Trident to play both chimes and electronic sounds.
Trident with electronic sounds:

Trident with electronic chimes:

To me, that’s what pinball should sound like.

#12 5 days ago

maybe just a personal thing, each to their own, but there is no comparison between mechanical chimes and electronic sounds.

imo it would be very hard to simulate a coil hitting an aluminium bar with a bellow box for sound (probably not correct term) to be reproduced electronically.

#13 5 days ago
Quoted from Rikoshay:

but there is no comparison between mechanical chimes and electronic sounds.

I totally agree - and I have a spare mechanical chime unit. Unfortunately there isn't enough extra solenoids on the Trident driver board required for the mechanical chimes. I'm looking to install it in a Wild Fyre.

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#14 4 days ago

Could use the SB100 signals coming out of the 7475 latch to turn on a mosfet transistor for chimes, or a MP3 / WAV playback for that matter. The coil pulse length for a chime might need to be extended some how.

#15 4 days ago

67cutlass, BTW you've got the SB300 replacement pictured in your opening post, not the SB100 replacement.

#16 4 days ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Could use the SB100 signals coming out of the 7475 latch to turn on a mosfet transistor for chimes, or a MP3 / WAV playback for that matter. The coil pulse length for a chime might need to be extended some how.

Thanks barakandl for the Black Friday sale. I just picked up a SB100 for my Trident. I run DickHamill ’s BSOS code on an Arduino with a wav trigger wired to a selector switch to toggle between old and new code. It’s been a while since I have been able to hear the old sounds, and I’m looking forward to it.

#17 16 hours ago

The new board and crimper tool came yesterday. Waiting on the plug and connectors to come. In the mean time, does the wiring below seem to be in the right order (both on the top and bottom of the board)? And no, I'm not the person who did that to the board

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#18 15 hours ago
Quoted from 67cutlass:

In the mean time, does the wiring below seem to be in the right order

See the picture here for the bottom of the board connectors.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-hot-hand-sb-100-no-sound#post-3447098

At the J2 connector (bottom left) your board had both red-brown wires crimped together and installed at pin position 5 (from the right) from factory.

The top 32 pin wire connector is a feed through from the top J5 connector of the MPU board. Basically pin 1 (right edge of both connectors need to marry with each other). And pin 32 to pin 32, etc.

MPU_J5_to_SB-100.png

#19 12 hours ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Could use the SB100 signals coming out of the 7475 latch to turn on a mosfet transistor for chimes, or a MP3 / WAV playback for that matter. The coil pulse length for a chime might need to be extended some how.

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#20 11 hours ago
Quoted from RatShack:

[quoted image]

nice. looks like you had the same idea.

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#21 9 hours ago

Real chimes for Stern Trident and Dracula would be lots of fun. Arduino sounds for both would also be awesome. I would consider having one or both of those machines if the sound was better and I could find them at an affordable price within a reasonable drive.

#22 9 hours ago

Yeah I've got a Drac and the beeps and boops just aren't good. Its SB100 is acting up and I have no desire to fix it, but would definitely be interested in something that can do chimes instead.

#23 8 hours ago

barakandl Please correct me if I'm wrong but the replacement board you just released will make all the earlier games sound like rev. 3 boards (Trident*/Hot Hand) which have great sounds IMO. Much better than the earlier rev. 1 & 2 (Lectronamo, Dracula, Wild Fyre, etc).

*disregard the videos of Trident previously posted in this thread. Neither of those videos sound like stock rev. 3 boards. Here's barakandl's test video he posted a while back.

#24 6 hours ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

barakandl Please correct me if I'm wrong but the replacement board you just released will make all the earlier games sound like rev. 3 boards (Trident*/Hot Hand) which have great sounds IMO. Much better than the earlier rev. 1 & 2 (Lectronamo, Dracula, Wild Fyre, etc).
*disregard the videos of Trident previously posted in this thread. Neither of those videos sound like stock rev. 3 boards. Here's barakandl's test video he posted a while back.

This replacement works in all games that used a SB100.

This replacement does not have chime circuitry option, but neither did most originals.

Only a few games actually used chime circuitry and it was an option. Later on was electronic sound only.

Of those few games that used chime circuitry they are also compatible with Electronic Sounds mode via the MPU dip switch (see game manual).

Chime simulation was four higher pitch tones (I think it sounds really bad in this mode).

Electronic sound is four lower pitch tones and two sweeping sound effects. One sweep is fast, the other is longer. (pop bumper usually the fast sweep).

The electronic sound tone pitch is preset to what I think sounds right but can be adjusted via the trim pots to the user's desire.

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