White Water
Williams, 1993I installed a new Rottendog Power Driver Board in my WH2O. The old board never blew this fuse.
Anyways as it is doing its start up F105 blows. The rest of the game works perfectly.
I'm now paranoid of the new board itself.
Any ideas on where I should start looking for the problem? I'm quite certain nothing is connected wrong.
Thanks for any help!
Quoted from pinfarmer:I'm now paranoid of the new board itself.
A new board will not guarantee it will be problem free.
Post a picture of the board with everything connected.
Hate to say this but put your old board back in. Does the same fuse blow? Just ensuring you havent inadvertently introduced another issue. If the fuse blows you know it's something you've done. If it doesn't then you know it's the new board.
If the fuse still blows after disconnecting J106 and J107, then it should be a board issue. If it does not blow, then you likely have an issue with a coil/diode that is connected to the F105.
What was wrong with your original board?
The original board had low 5volt and a leaky c2. I stupidly shotguned all the usual bad components and added the jumpers for good measure but it ended up worse than before.
I just got back from checking it with those connectors removed and adding one by one. It is indeed only doing it when j107 playfield power is connected. Yay the board is good. I found that the kickback was locking on immediately and warm. I unsoldered the wires from the coil and started the machine again. It was still blowing the fuse. Damn thought I had it. As far as I can tell solenoids 1-8 don't have diodes on the coil I believe they are in the driver board.
Can another coil that is bad make a different one lock on down the chain?
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:I'm no expert, but if you look at the top right, the connector that appears to have the J105 flag stuck to it is attached to J104. Not sure if that is correct or not?
[quoted image]
J104 and J105 are interchangeable.
Quoted from pinfarmer:. I found that the kickback was locking on immediately and warm
Can you measure the resistance of this coil? See if there is another coil in the game that has the same coil number and compare the resistance to the one locking on.
Seems if the F105 is still blowing on the board after disconnecting the coil, might be another coil locking on that is also connected to F105.
One potential way to found out of a coil locks on without going through a bunch of fuses, is to test J130. With power off, use your ohm setting and test J130 pins 1 thru 8 against ground. I normally wedge the black meter lead under the ground braid wire so I can just worry about holding the red meter lead. If a transistor is shorted, you would see a huge difference in resistance on one pin vs. the others.
2019-10-17 09_25_07-https___www.ipdb.org_files_2768_Williams_1993_White_Water_English_Manual.pdf - I (resized).png
Thank you for all the advice! I'll get back with the results. Ya the game came with that wire tag but in the wrong connector.
Get rid of it. Fix your original board. I had nothing but problems when I tried a rotten dog board in my white water. When I installed the rotten dog board I had different problems than I had originally. I spoke with them on the phone several times and sent it back to them three times before I finally just said give me a refund. I think that is the same fuse that was blowing on mine too. You could actually see the fuse burn. I Put the original board back in and it did not blow that fuse. For whatever reason, white water does not like rotten dog power driver boards. Trust me, I know. It was a huge waste of time.
Quoted from MikeSinMD:Get rid of it. Fix your original board. I had nothing but problems when I tried a rotten dog board in my white water. When I installed the rotten dog board I had different problems than I had originally. I spoke with them on the phone several times and sent it back to them three times before I finally just said give me a refund. I think that is the same fuse that was blowing on mine too. You could actually see the fuse burn. I Put the original board back in and it did not blow that fuse. For whatever reason, white water does not like rotten dog power driver boards. Trust me, I know. It was a huge waste of time.
THANK YOU!
You may have saved me a lot of trouble. I'll check the Transistor again but I had the same experience. I could see the fuse slowly glowing for a bit before it went and my old board never blew that fuse. F!
Quoted from pinfarmer:The original board had low 5volt and a leaky c2. I stupidly shotguned all the usual bad components and added the jumpers for good measure but it ended up worse than before.
Sure like to hear more details about this board. What was the 5volts measuring last time you checked it?
Could you start a new thread on it? Be best not to confuse the thread for future readers.
I spent more money on blown fuses while troubleshooting, and shipping my Brand new RD auxiliary driver board back and forth, than it originally cost me.
Lesson learned:
New parts sometimes mean new, and more difficult, problems to troubleshoot.
I'm going to put the untouched board from my sttng in to see if the problem carries over or goes away.
I'm a bit paranoid the whitewater will mess the board and I'll be down both games but I need to know if I'm barking up the wrong tree.
Quoted from Pinless:I spent more money on blown fuses while troubleshooting
Make a small investment in some of these babies:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/clip-on-circuit-breaker
Indispensable for trouble shooting!
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Make a small investment in some of these babies:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/clip-on-circuit-breaker
Indispensable for trouble shooting!
I ended up making some circuit breakers with some of the blown fuses.
What threw me, and several pinside gurus, for a loop were the F103,104, and 105 fuses blowing on startup. Eventually found out the new RD auxiliary driver board had a bad transistor which kept the blanking circuit from activating on startup.
Well the plot thickens and I got no answers. Just more questions.
I put in my 100% working power driver from my STTNG. F105 did NOT blow. There is power at all the coils. 85-89 volts. None of the coils lock on at all.
But none of the solinoids except the flippers work.
So originally I had no coil issues just 5 volts, 18 volt issues on original board problems. I installed a Rottendog and had a few coils locking on and F105 blowing. only coil 1-8 didn't work slings for example worked until the fuse went. Installed 100% tested OEM board and no blow but no coils at all except flippers
I can see nothing loose, nothing disconnected.
I tested all the transistors on the RD board. Q64 and Q73 were BOTH bad 
The coils are fine. So that explains the new RT board causing the new problem of locking on coils and blowing F105.
Now then why do I have the new problem of no coils firing at all with a known good OEM board?
Is it possible the RD one broke something?
FINAL UPDATE:
For anyone still reading this and looking for a conclusion, My game now works 100%.
Original board was bad voltages
New board came with bad transistors and caused locked coils and fuse to blow
I put in another working OEM board and all is well.
The issue that surfaced later with NO coils working was a ribbon cable needing a clean and not passing the signals.
Thanks again for all the time and help!
Glad you got it figured out, sounds like a hair puller for sure. Send that RD board back and get your money back. I just recently went through the same thing with two of there boards and not to mention many others over the years but this time I vowed to be done with RD boards.
John
I need to find someone to repair my original board. I can't figure what I botched repairing it. Probably a through hole.
I had an issue with an RD board being used in my Funhouse. I had a couple components smoke after a couple years of use. Not in warranty to say the least. After speaking with them they mentioned the only game that uses that specific circuit is T2. I told them that board from day one had always been in a FH. Once again they claimed FH doesnt use that circuit. Feeling uneasy about the whole thing I agreed to send the board to em. I have to say I was very pleased with their customer service. They fixed the board for free and didn't charge me shipping either. The really odd thing is the burned portion, they literally doubled up both resistors. I mean they tied two resistors together. I'm not smart enough to understand why but the board has worked perfectly since then. I've also used their fliptronics board which works perfectly as well. I say get the board fixed and keep it on hand as a spare. It's already money spent and you won't have any downtime in the future. My .02
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