(Topic ID: 21189)

New Project Space Shuttle redo * update *

By justjoe

11 years ago


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  • 53 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by vid1900
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

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There are 53 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 11 years ago

Getting ready to start the next project. I have a space shuttle in need of a new playfield. Perfect time to start. I found a nice quality image from vpforums that I could use. I will post pics as I go.

The image starting to be printed:

IMG_0387.JPGIMG_0387.JPG IMG_0388.JPGIMG_0388.JPG

#2 11 years ago

You're doing a whole pf overlay?

#3 11 years ago

I'm surprised VPforums had such a high quality image (unless it's not showing in those photos), will you be able to see pixels? I know CPR was selling some goof playfields for like $500 (some are just white around the border). I'm sure your doing an overlay either because you don't want to spend the money, or you don't feel like doing a complete swap (just a top teardown).

Let us know it goes, how do you plan on attaching the overlay? I've seen some people use an adhesive along with a chemical that slows down the curing process so you have time to adjust position (like you would do tinted windows). I'm curious how well it will align. Also I hope your printing to vinyl (not paper) because paper will likely soak up any adhesive you use, and possibly tear as you adjust.

#4 11 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

You're doing a whole pf overlay?

Yes, the original is shot.

Quoted from toyotaboy:

I'm surprised VPforums had such a high quality image (unless it's not showing in those photos), will you be able to see pixels? I know CPR was selling some goof playfields for like $500 (some are just white around the border). I'm sure your doing an overlay either because you don't want to spend the money, or you don't feel like doing a complete swap (just a top teardown).
Let us know it goes, how do you plan on attaching the overlay? I've seen some people use an adhesive along with a chemical that slows down the curing process so you have time to adjust position (like you would do tinted windows). I'm curious how well it will align. Also I hope your printing to vinyl (not paper) because paper will likely soak up any adhesive you use, and possibly tear as you adjust.

I was using my ipod for pics and it shows.. Im doing it myself because I like to work on these machines, Ive done it 8 times so far with great results. Im digitally printing with solvent inks on vinyl then will clearcoat it. For aligning I took measurement from the playfield and corrected the design. If I have a problem with that one I will correct it and print it again.

#5 11 years ago

New pics:

pinball_005.jpgpinball_005.jpg pinball_006.jpgpinball_006.jpg pinball_007.jpgpinball_007.jpg

#6 11 years ago

Very cool Joe.

Get ready for 10000 questions:

1. Is the vinyl substrate white or clear in color?
2. I assume you are going to sand off the silk screening off all of the existing inserts, because they will not register with the new ones?
3. I assume you are going to flood the old playfield with clear to level it and lock down the wood fibers before adhering the vinyl?
4. If the vinyl is white, can you print just your inserts on a clear sheet?
5. Have you tested any clear coats on this vinyl for compatibility?
6. Does the adhesive on the vinyl allow some positioning movement before it grabs?
7. How long until the adhesive reaches full strength? Is heat necessary?

Back a few years ago there where many overlays for sale (usually on polyester) and they were terrible. I'm looking forward to see how this turns out.

#7 11 years ago

Tag to watch this one.

I've got a totally shot playfield just as bad as the one pictured here, lol. I'm wondering what to do with it after I get the CPR playfield swapped in.

#8 11 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Very cool Joe.
Get ready for 10000 questions:
1. Is the vinyl substrate white or clear in color?
2. I assume you are going to sand off the silk screening off all of the existing inserts, because they will not register with the new ones?
3. I assume you are going to flood the old playfield with clear to level it and lock down the wood fibers before adhering the vinyl?
4. If the vinyl is white, can you print just your inserts on a clear sheet?
5. Have you tested any clear coats on this vinyl for compatibility?
6. Does the adhesive on the vinyl allow some positioning movement before it grabs?
7. How long until the adhesive reaches full strength? Is heat necessary?
Back a few years ago there where many overlays for sale (usually on polyester) and they were terrible. I'm looking forward to see how this turns out.

1. I used white vinyl
2. I plan on sanding everything off.
3. I will do 2 coats to get a good surface to stick the vinyl to.
4. Yes, I will cut out all of the inserts in the vinyl and paint around each one black.
5. Yes, the solvent ink will stay if sprayed, brushing it can remove the ink. Once the first coat sets its good to go.
6. Yes, it is pressure sensitive so I can move it into the correct position. If it is too tacky I can use watered down windex to make the application easier.
7. Full strength is reached once I apply pressure, heat can help but I do not think it is necessary for this one.

Quoted from Frax:

Tag to watch this one.
I've got a totally shot playfield just as bad as the one pictured here, lol. I'm wondering what to do with it after I get the CPR playfield swapped in.

I use my bad playfields as wall hangings. I reprint them and hang them. I had one that I made a simple timing circuit to light the lights when it was hanging - turned out pretty cool.

#9 11 years ago

Do you have wood router skills?

It would be cool to give your playfield the two "hot dog" inserts in the center (like the more valuable SS playfields had), rather that the 3 inserts on each side.

Since you are completely covering the playfield, you would be risk free doing the mod.

#10 11 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Do you have wood router skills?
It would be cool to give your playfield the two "hot dog" inserts in the center (like the more valuable SS playfields had), rather that the 3 inserts on each side.
Since you are completely covering the playfield, you would be risk free doing the mod.

I have the skills and even better a cnc router. Do you have a link to these inserts?

#11 11 years ago

You would have to call Steve Young or CPR, I don't see them as a listed item. I have a SS playfield with them if you need the exact measurements or scan.

http://classicplayfields.com/photo96.html

#12 11 years ago

Oddly enough, it seems that almost EVERYONE here on Pinside with an original Shuttle playfield has the 3 separate inserts..

Mine has the hotdogs. I thought I had the common one and the 3 inserts was UNcommon, not the other way around, lol.

Looks like Planetary doesn't have the hotdogs in red...

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PP&Product_Code=PPS-50-26-25&Category_Code=INS

#13 11 years ago

I've got 4 in the shop right now, I'll check for dates on the PFs and report back.

The hotdog ones in the shop have 2 flashers per dog, the 3 insert ones have 3 flashers per side.

#14 11 years ago

I love all the info on this site! I learn more everyday!

#15 11 years ago

There's a Flash Gordon on Chicago Craigslist that looks like they tried something similar with poor results. http://s307.photobucket.com/albums/nn306/Marauder-Z/Flash%20Gordon/

Once you sand it smooth, are you going to decal all the inserts? I think you'd be able to see where you cut out the inserts even when painted black. You certainly can on the example above.

#16 11 years ago
Quoted from catboxer:

There's a Flash Gordon on Chicago Craigslist that looks like they tried something similar with poor results. http://s307.photobucket.com/albums/nn306/Marauder-Z/Flash%20Gordon/
Once you sand it smooth, are you going to decal all the inserts? I think you'd be able to see where you cut out the inserts even when painted black. You certainly can on the example above.

Im going to clear over the decals on the inserts. The ball will hit the edges of the vinyl. Im going to try my best, i think it will look better than it does right now thats for sure.

#17 11 years ago

Started the tear down of the playfield, man this thing is in bad shape..

#18 11 years ago

trying again...

Graphic1.JPGGraphic1.JPG Graphic2.jpgGraphic2.jpg

#19 11 years ago

Dear lord! Dirty and worn, looks like its never been maintained, ever

#20 11 years ago

Okay, why do your pop bumper caps not have the W in the center... mine are the exact same ring on the outside with a red W stamped logo in the middle too... I can't find replacements and mine are chipped. Pisses me off.. :p

#21 11 years ago

None of the SS I currently have here have the W in the center either.

Probably because the W would clash with the scaffolding plastic that is installed above it.

#22 11 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

None of the SS I currently have here have the W in the center either.
Probably because the W would clash with the scaffolding plastic that is installed above it.

That's why I didn't understand why mine DO. Doesn't make any sense. Was there another game maybe they were pulled from? I've never seen any other game with pop caps with that pattern around the edge...

#23 11 years ago

I've got some early and late model SS right now in the shop and none have the W.

There must be another game that uses that cap, although I can't think of any off the top of my head.

Maybe just get some all white ones for your restore and stencil on the red pattern?

#24 11 years ago

Anybody familiar with Ed Cheung's playfield work on SS? He's attempted several methods and details the pros/cons and problems that he encountered.

http://www.edcheung.com/album/album07/Pinball/ss_pf.htm

#25 11 years ago

Yes, Ed's work on his SS is legendary.

#26 11 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I've got some early and late model SS right now in the shop and none have the W.
There must be another game that uses that cap, although I can't think of any off the top of my head.
Maybe just get some all white ones for your restore and stencil on the red pattern?

The only upside is that since I went all-out with the red-white-and-blue theming on mine, I'm not even using the originals currently...but would be nice if the alternate coloring doesn't look good once I get the new playfield in.

#27 11 years ago
Quoted from BallPtPenTheif:

Anybody familiar with Ed Cheung's playfield work on SS?

I believe his artwork was probably used by CPR as a starting point (since Ed basically did what they do, which is scan the playfield, and redraw as vectors in illustrator). Of course, CPR actually made it better by fixing the mis-alignment mistake that williams made (ever notice that a stock playfield seems to have mis-alignment with the inserts?)

#28 11 years ago

ever notice that a stock playfield seems to have mis-alignment with the inserts?

It just depends on how sloppy the guys doing the screen printing are.

Look at the registration marks at the top and bottom of the playfield and see how well the screener did his job:

registration_mark.jpgregistration_mark.jpg

#29 11 years ago

So far what's the cost on a print out this big?

#30 11 years ago

I've seen vinyl printing as inexpensive as $50 for something that size. Of course that's typical outdoor sign printing, have no idea what some other companies use.

If you had access to a printer, between material and ink, it could be 1/5th that cost.

#31 11 years ago

I'd like to experiment with a sheet of that that stuff and see how well prepared the substrate has to be and how well it takes to 2 part isocyanate clear coat.

#32 11 years ago

Ive spoke with ed on his redo. They did not redraw it into vectors, just used a good scan. I have about 2 thirds of this playfield redrawn into vectors then found a scan that would do the trick. I

Quoted from BallPtPenTheif:So far what's the cost on a print out this big?

This would be $35 in my shop.

#33 11 years ago
Quoted from justjoe:

Ive spoke with ed on his redo. They did not redraw it into vectors, just used a good scan. I have about 2 thirds of this playfield redrawn into vectors then found a scan that would do the trick. I

This would be $35 in my shop.

If I were to provide a vector file would you be able to do that by mail order? I don't have a project at the moment, but that seems like a more than reasonable price. Unfortunately I'm better with Illustrator than I am with a paint brush.

#34 11 years ago
Quoted from BallPtPenTheif:

If I were to provide a vector file would you be able to do that by mail order? I don't have a project at the moment, but that seems like a more than reasonable price. Unfortunately I'm better with Illustrator than I am with a paint brush.

Yes, vectors are the best file type for sign printing. I use corel draw and also have illustrator if needed. I print with eps files. And sure we can send prints to you. Ill also add anyone from pinside can get this size print from me for $28.

Quoted from vid1900:

I'd like to experiment with a sheet of that that stuff and see how well prepared the substrate has to be and how well it takes to 2 part isocyanate clear coat.

It should work just fine. Be very careful though, any isocyanates used in the hardener are highly toxic!!!!

#35 11 years ago
Quoted from justjoe:

Be very careful though, any isocyanates used in the hardener are highly toxic!!!!

I got my Tyvek suit, my fog proof eye goggles, my chemical respirator and my downdraft booth.

#36 11 years ago
Quoted from justjoe:

It should work just fine.

I just worry that all the vinyl signs I see seem to shrink over the years. So I worry that the clear will not have "give" to allow for the shrinkage and might delaminate.

Does anyone ever put this material on a car and then clear it?

#37 11 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I just worry that all the vinyl signs I see seem to shrink over the years. So I worry that the clear will not have "give" to allow for the shrinkage and might delaminate.
Does anyone ever put this material on a car and then clear it?

I used to make cleared projects that have lasted indoors for 10+ years. I believe it is the temp changes and sun damage that shrinks the vinyl

#38 11 years ago
Quoted from justjoe:

I used to make cleared projects that have lasted indoors for 10+ years. I believe it is the temp changes and sun damage that shrinks the vinyl

Very cool then!

If you have a printing error on a sheet or something, maybe I'll make some lemonade from lemons and give it a full test on a scrap playfield.

#39 11 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Very cool then!
If you have a printing error on a sheet or something, maybe I'll make some lemonade from lemons and give it a full test on a scrap playfield.

I think that would be a great idea. Shoot over a idea, the only way to know is to test!!

#40 11 years ago

After a few crazy days at work I had some time to do some sanding. I will be ordering clear ( a 3 part acrylic epoxy ) on monday. Heres how it looks now:

#41 11 years ago

the resized one.....

sanded.jpgsanded.jpg

1 week later
#42 11 years ago

Finally got some time to finish the sanding and after 3 prints got one that I was happy with. Heres a pic after the vinyl has been layed down and the paint I used for the clearcoat.

IMG_0436[1].JPGIMG_0436[1].JPG IMG_0437[1].JPGIMG_0437[1].JPG

#43 11 years ago

Ill get some better pics and get another thats the right side up.....

1 week later
#45 11 years ago

I finished the clear coats and got to sanding, once I got the surface I wanted I pulled out the buffer and started with a rubbing compound then finished with a heavy waxing. I was very happy with the way it turned out, some minor problems and one horrible problem. See if you can see it....

IMG_20120820_162809.jpgIMG_20120820_162809.jpg IMG_20120820_162744.jpgIMG_20120820_162744.jpg

#46 11 years ago

Houston ...we lost an insert.
(or did I fail to launch?)

#47 11 years ago

No lettering on any of the inserts....... I was going to clear them.. Time to start again

#48 11 years ago

You are still OK.

Print your inserts on Water Slide decals rather than vinyl. They are so thin that a minimal overcoat will get you back in business.

There are plenty of times where I'll clear a crummy playfield just to lock down the wood fibers and then I'll get to work on the painting and inserts.

#49 11 years ago

BUT, don't come in too hot on those decals or they will wrinkle.

Dust over them with 2 super dry coats about 5 minutes apart, then go ahead and lay down 2 normal coats of clear 10 minutes apart.

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