(Topic ID: 154078)

NEW PRODUCT lit roll-over drop target

By indypinhead

8 years ago


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  • 206 posts
  • 57 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by dsuperbee
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#51 8 years ago
Quoted from BrianZ:

Cool. Do you have the ability to create any type of target (assuming you have an original to pattern)?

No, not really.

For instance...the Stern drop target. I'd have trouble machining that one. I'm sure, with a lot of work, and some creative machining, it can be done.

#52 8 years ago

What about just a target face? Fixed Target...

Why? I'm thinking about the Death Star Target in DE SW. If we could get one in clear/translucent; I'm betting I could light it up. Would be wicked looking lit up red in the Death Star.

-Z

#53 8 years ago

Attached. Even just the cross hair OR the skull would be cool if both are too busy.

pdg093r_(resized).jpgpdg093r_(resized).jpg

#54 8 years ago
Quoted from BrianZ:

What about just a target face? Fixed Target...
Why? I'm thinking about the Death Star Target in DE SW. If we could get one in clear/translucent; I'm betting I could light it up. Would be wicked looking lit up red in the Death Star.
-Z

I'm not sure I can machine the DE type target, due to the complexity of the design.

#55 8 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Attached. Even just the cross hair OR the skull would be cool if both are too busy.

pdg093r_(resized).jpg

I can easily do the cross hair design.

Doing the skull would require WAY too much time to re=create the artwork "by hand".

#56 8 years ago

wpdvideo made this suggestion for FT....

gone_fishin_(resized).jpggone_fishin_(resized).jpg

#57 8 years ago

Here's a screen capture of the cross-hairs for T2

CROSS_HAIRS_(resized).jpgCROSS_HAIRS_(resized).jpg

#58 8 years ago

Thats pretty sweet. Wonder how well it will show up when lit.

#59 8 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Thats pretty sweet. Wonder how well it will show up when lit.

It'll show up really well when lit. On some of the targets I use a 1/16 ball nose end mill to machine the text, (cross hairs, T2 text, Star). O the smaller text, I use a 1/32 ball nose end mill.

#60 8 years ago

I've decided to run a pre-March Madness special on these drop targets.

From now...until the beginning of the tournament, the price for this kit is $43/shipped, continental US.

For those of you that have already placed an order, partial refunds will be coming your way.

#61 8 years ago

RTS came up w/ a GREAT idea for shadow...

BRICK_WALL_(resized).jpgBRICK_WALL_(resized).jpg

#62 8 years ago

The wall target is much bigger than a regular target. Are you thinking about making 1 of those?

#63 8 years ago

This is what it will kind of look like using a 1/32 dia. ball nose end mill...

BRICK_WALL_2_(resized).jpgBRICK_WALL_2_(resized).jpg

#64 8 years ago
Quoted from Starwriter:

The wall target is much bigger than a regular target. Are you thinking about making 1 of those?

Yes, I'm planning on doing that one as well.

#65 8 years ago

I'm open to suggestions on the target face artwork/text.

I think the brick wall is going to look great.

Thanks for the suggestion RTS...

#66 8 years ago

Please figure out how to do the CC targets. I can send you one if you need it.

#67 8 years ago

Would the shadow target work in a dirty harry?

#68 8 years ago
Quoted from fumbleflippers:

Would the shadow target work in a dirty harry?

Yes, it will work in the Dirty Harry that has the drop target.

#69 8 years ago
Quoted from zr11990:

Please figure out how to do the CC targets. I can send you one if you need it.

Do you have a part number for the CC drop target?

#71 8 years ago

That looks like a tricky one...

Without having an assembly, for testing, I doubt I'll be making this drop target.

Sorry

#72 8 years ago

Here's a pic of the drop target w/ the brick pattern and cross-hair pattern...

DSC_2555_(resized).JPGDSC_2555_(resized).JPG

#73 8 years ago

Cool Idea. looks sweet, my only concern is longevity. what are they made out of? did you do some life testing? is there a guarantee with these? I'll have to check and see where I can use one..

#74 8 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

Cool Idea. looks sweet, my only concern is longevity. what are they made out of? did you do some life testing? is there a guarantee with these? I'll have to check and see where I can use one..

Dude he said theyre made of polycarbonate.....

Cross hair looks SICK cant wait!

#75 8 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Dude he said theyre made of polycarbonate.....
Cross hair looks SICK cant wait!

shipped, and on its' way

#76 8 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

Cool Idea. looks sweet, my only concern is longevity. what are they made out of? did you do some life testing? is there a guarantee with these? I'll have to check and see where I can use one..

These are made from Polycarbonate...should be VERY durable. I's sure it'll be stronger than the current ABS target.

#77 8 years ago

Here's another pic...

DSC_2557_(resized).JPGDSC_2557_(resized).JPG

#78 8 years ago

Here's some screen captures of the new artwork for Indiana Jones...

IJ1_(resized).jpgIJ1_(resized).jpg

IJ3_(resized).jpgIJ3_(resized).jpg

IJ2_(resized).jpgIJ2_(resized).jpg

#79 8 years ago

I tweaked the artwork on the IJ tiki artwork...

ij4_(resized).jpgij4_(resized).jpg

ij5_(resized).jpgij5_(resized).jpg

#81 8 years ago

Thanks!!!

Spent a few hours toying w/ it.

Not sure if it'll sell though.

#82 8 years ago

Hi Indy,

This looks fantastic, I am interesting in one for Terminator 2.

Can you please advise of shipping costs to Australia?

-Scott

#83 8 years ago

I just installed the drop target on my Shadow.

The quality of the drop target is far superior than the official replacement target I had on my game from BAA. The original yellow target was soft and flimsy, and actually had broken.

The target I received with this kit is stronger and appears to be much better quality. And it seems to snap up and down better as well. The original target is actually crap compared to this one.

The lighting effect is very bright. I didn't specify which color when I ordered, and ended up with white. I think the target with the brick pattern will look better with a red light, and I will change it out. But the flex bulbs can be positioned such that the light really travels throughout the transparent target so that it looks self illuminated. If anything, it is overly bright.

The bracket to mount the socket should be different. I needed to be bend it to mount to the underside of the playfield to accommodate the installation with the attached wires. I suggested that the kit change to a "z" style mounting bracket, rather than the "L" bracket that came attached to the socket.

Attached are some pics. The glowing target is very noticeable and a big improvement from the original.

20160311_194017_(resized).jpg20160311_194017_(resized).jpg

20160311_191718_(resized).jpg20160311_191718_(resized).jpg

20160311_190053_(resized).jpg20160311_190053_(resized).jpg

#84 8 years ago

Hope mine for Space Station arrives soon. What's the design on that one?

#85 8 years ago

Once you install the kit, it's easy enough to change colors with a different flex bulb. The brick pattern is better in red.

20160311_221402_(resized).jpg20160311_221402_(resized).jpg

#86 8 years ago

RTS,

Thanks for posting pics...

Please allow me to explain a couple things...

My original thought was to use a 555 lamp socket with a different mounting tab, and mount the lamp to the playfiled, just as you did. The first machine I installed this mod on was my FT. That area is too crowded to allow me to mount the lamp in this fashion. Then I thought, well...some "pinball purists" might not want to mount the lamp socket to the PF, which requires the creation of an additional hole. I decided to mount the lamp socket to the drop target assembly. In doing so, if someone wanted to remove this mod, there would be no evidence of it ever being installed, once it has been removed.

In my original for sale post, I stated that this mod only comes w/ a white LED. The reason for that is...#1, I didn't want to have to stockpile every color of lamp available, and #2, If I provided LED color options, it would make each order all that more difficult to keep track of. Not only would I have to keep track of the drop target artwork style, but I'd also have to keep track of each order's color request. This would increase the likelihood of my making an error in someone's order.

I hope you understand.

As always, I welcome everyone's input. I'm always striving to make my products more desirable to the public.

Tim

#87 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hope mine for Space Station arrives soon. What's the design on that one?

Your order should arrive, no later than Monday.

I haven't worked on any artwork for SS, so the target that was shipped is a blank target, w/ no artwork.

It's going to be a couple weeks before I can revisit this project due to my current workload in the shop.

#88 8 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

Once you install the kit, it's easy enough to change colors with a different flex bulb. The brick pattern is better in red.

20160311_221402_(resized).jpg

I agree, a red LED on the brick pattern works best.

I hadn't installed the brick pattern drop target on my Shadow yet.

That brick pattern looks even better than I thought it would.

Thanks for posting these pics.

#89 8 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

That looks like a tricky one...
Without having an assembly, for testing, I doubt I'll be making this drop target.
Sorry

I don't think it's as tricky as it seems. The only really crucial change is the pockets under the little flanges on the front. The target lifter uses those and holds the target up with a pulsed coil. The hit to the target knocks it off the lifter so it can fall, and the coil goes off when the switch at the bottom is triggered. CC wouldn't even really need the light socket, as there's a light essentially pointed right at them with the arrow in front of the target. You could throw a 2 head flex in there for more direct light, but it wouldn't need a new socket.

All the fluting at the top part, and the bit of a bump out behind the pockets, is just for strength I think. With the machined polycarbonate, I think you could just make the whole top part solid.

The pockets under the flanges are about 0.3in across, just under 0.4in tall, and about 0.1in deep (I don't have anything real accurate within reach of my desk). The whole head rectangle could just be 1/4 thick solid. Whether or not the bump outs are necessary for strength in the poly - I don't know.

I guess another minor caveat would be that the faces would have to be polished/smoothed enough somehow that the decals could be applied and stick well. Trying to carve out face renditions in the targets would suck.

But I would LOVE to see these made.

#90 8 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

I don't think it's as tricky as it seems. The only really crucial change is the pockets under the little flanges on the front. The target lifter uses those and holds the target up with a pulsed coil. The hit to the target knocks it off the lifter so it can fall, and the coil goes off when the switch at the bottom is triggered. CC wouldn't even really need the light socket, as there's a light essentially pointed right at them with the arrow in front of the target. You could throw a 2 head flex in there for more direct light, but it wouldn't need a new socket.
All the fluting at the top part, and the bit of a bump out behind the pockets, is just for strength I think. With the machined polycarbonate, I think you could just make the whole top part solid.
The pockets under the flanges are about 0.3in across, just under 0.4in tall, and about 0.1in deep (I don't have anything real accurate within reach of my desk). The whole head rectangle could just be 1/4 thick solid. Whether or not the bump outs are necessary for strength in the poly - I don't know.
I guess another minor caveat would be that the faces would have to be polished/smoothed enough somehow that the decals could be applied and stick well. Trying to carve out face renditions in the targets would suck.
But I would LOVE to see these made.

There's 2 downsides in doing this project...

#1, the cost of material. When you have to purchase polycarbonate that's thicker that 1/2 inch, the price literally sky-rockets. For instance, The material needed for these William's targets is 1/10th the cost of a similar project that requires 3/4 inch material.

#2, (the biggest drawback) This drop target would be a game-specific project. To my knowledge, CC is the only game that uses this target. The "target audience" would only be those people who own this specific game.

#91 8 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

Your order should arrive, no later than Monday.
I haven't worked on any artwork for SS, so the target that was shipped is a blank target, w/ no artwork.
It's going to be a couple weeks before I can revisit this project due to my current workload in the shop.

OK thanks.

#92 8 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

There's 2 downsides in doing this project...
#1, the cost of material. When you have to purchase polycarbonate that's thicker that 1/2 inch, the price literally sky-rockets. For instance, The material needed for these William's targets is 1/10th the cost of a similar project that requires 3/4 inch material.
#2, (the biggest drawback) This drop target would be a game-specific project. To my knowledge, CC is the only game that uses this target. The "target audience" would only be those people who own this specific game.

The whole target isn't more than 1/2 inch thick. Not sure why that came up. Front to back it's no different than the other drops, because they all have the little tab that sticks out to hit the switch. The bumped back part doesn't stick out more than that.

As for #2, remember that anybody who buys for CC would buy FOUR of them, and you don't have to include wiring/lighting

What if I draw up the part and pay for the material?

#93 8 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

#1, the cost of material. When you have to purchase polycarbonate that's thicker that 1/2 inch, the price literally sky-rockets. For instance, The material needed for these William's targets is 1/10th the cost of a similar project that requires 3/4 inch material.

You might need to talk to your local plastics wholesaler to get an idea of who locally would have scrap you could acquire.

Little off cut drops of poly probably get recycled at most factories because of their "useless" size.

Poly_off_cut_scraps.jpg_250x250_(resized).jpgPoly_off_cut_scraps.jpg_250x250_(resized).jpg

#94 8 years ago

will this fit on williams system 9? sorry if it's already answered.

i'd like to try one with the star and put a blue led on my freshly restored space shuttle.

#95 8 years ago
Quoted from beatmaster:

will this fit on williams system 9? sorry if it's already answered.
i'd like to try one with the star and put a blue led on my freshly restored space shuttle.

I don't know....

This is a replacement drop target for P/N 03-8033 or 03-8750

#96 8 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

The whole target isn't more than 1/2 inch thick. Not sure why that came up. Front to back it's no different than the other drops, because they all have the little tab that sticks out to hit the switch. The bumped back part doesn't stick out more than that.
As for #2, remember that anybody who buys for CC would buy FOUR of them, and you don't have to include wiring/lighting
What if I draw up the part and pay for the material?

If I were to design this, I'd prefer to take the measurements myself using calipers and/or my optical comparator.

#97 8 years ago

Amazing work from an amazing guy. Trust me, his stuff is A+ top shelf. BUY WITH CONFIDENCE!!!

#98 8 years ago

any discount for multiple orders?

#99 8 years ago
Quoted from RDReynolds:

Amazing work from an amazing guy. Trust me, his stuff is A+ top shelf. BUY WITH CONFIDENCE!!!

Thanks RD,

You've seen my shop.....and some of my work

#100 8 years ago
Quoted from msj2222:

any discount for multiple orders?

I can only knock off a couple bucks on multiple orders.

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