(Topic ID: 119764)

Titan Competition Silicone Rings


By Titan_Pinball

4 years ago



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  • 2,640 posts
  • 402 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 32 days ago by Gumby510
  • Topic is favorited by 183 Pinsiders

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    There are 2640 posts in this topic. You are on page 14 of 53.
    #651 4 years ago
    Quoted from Titan_Pinball:

    I know it's a pain, but you can always email me what you need and I can put it together manually and give you shipping options.

    Nah, it's all good. I was using PayPal because at the moment my normal bank card was locked due to "suspicious activity" on the account. I was able to get that cleared up so I can use my normal card again. I'll try the order again via the normal credit card process over the coming days.

    #652 4 years ago

    Guys.....GUYS...I put the glow in the dark on Crescendo last night. Holy crap. UV bulbs in the GI for the most part, got a pic of one with an incandescent just because it was already there....

    20150614_215947.jpg 20150614_220004.jpg 20150614_220011.jpg 20150614_220024.jpg 20150614_220031.jpg 20150614_220049.jpg 20150614_220100.jpg 20150614_220106.jpg
    #653 4 years ago

    Strange question.. doesn't UV light hurt plastics? Why go for the blacklight LEDs then?

    #654 4 years ago

    What do I care if it does...they're already yellow as crap. I'm going to scan and remake them, probably with flourescent ink if that's even possible.. I have two full sets of plastics right now for Crescendo...the Aussie guys that do Gottlieb plastics have absolutely zero interest in doing this as a reproduction....they said I'm the only one that's EVER asked about them, and they want 20 sets ordered as a commitment to make them. At like 120-150 a set, I'm sure not paying for them to be made.

    As for why....why not....did you see my Cresendo thread? I repainted the whole playfield to take advantage of blacklight to go with the theme. It looks great with normal GI in it, but it really is something else with the UV.

    #655 4 years ago

    GitD looks great!

    Looking forward to when bulks are available with it.

    #656 4 years ago
    Quoted from Frax:

    What do I care if it does...they're already yellow as crap.

    Oh! In that case, then no reason not to go for it.

    #657 4 years ago

    Those look awesome!! If Matt hasn't blown the doors off the rubber ring market, these GITD rings just did it. Holy crap.

    #658 4 years ago

    Totally cool!!

    #659 4 years ago

    Like I said though...just keep in mind my game is flooded with UV. I'll try to take some pictures with another camera as well..these came off my Note 4 with HDR, because the pop caps are so insanely bright (crystal fan LEDs... lol..) that they overload the tiny aperture of the phone. UV is also "visible" to a CCD, so everything is brighter than it really is...suffice to say, I think it looks awesome. I'm not sure how practical these will be unless you have a big blacklight overhead or just need light green rubber anyways. Lights don't generally turn off long enough for the glow to show.

    Might work good for something like system shutdown on JM (Green with that playfield though? Yuck.) or Sparky multiball start on Met where only the spotlights remain on.

    #660 4 years ago

    This is a good point. The GITD rings will certainly react to UV, but it takes quite a bit for that effect.
    I spoke with Art from Comet Pinball a few days ago and we discussed this. He spent a lot of time flooding them with different light to see what he could produce.

    Here are some pics:gitd.jpggitd2.jpggitd3.jpg

    As you can see, they will certainly glow but there is a trade off to general illumination.

    I should let Art explain further, as he is the expert on the bulbs.

    I'm not sure we can come up with a good balance of glow vs illumination, but I will ask my manufacturer if there is any other chemical composition they can use to help us.

    #661 4 years ago

    Can more "powder" be added to the GITD rings to get a more reactive ring?

    #662 4 years ago
    Quoted from Zitt:

    Can more "powder" be added to the GITD rings to get a more reactive ring?

    Quite possibly. I'm not sure of the exact method of production for these.
    I'm concerned that adding more of the reactive substance will have an affect on their bounce and longevity.

    #663 4 years ago
    Quoted from Zitt:

    Can more "powder" be added to the GITD rings to get a more reactive ring?

    If they could add some Radium and Zinc Sulfide to the mix, they would glow all on their own.

    #664 4 years ago

    The GITD rings were well received by a dozen pinheads over the weekend.

    Those in the photo, are lit with 5 Super Flux bulbs...really the brightest response and some faint illumination.

    Indeed, there is a trade off, as GI lighting is being taken up.

    But there are some options....some I havent gotten too, some in the near future to be easier.

    I wish to mount a COB Panel...perhaps in the outhole or elsewhere, is 30% of the playfield can react or GITD Rubber
    to this product. (We previously hoped this would help Predator)

    Another option is keeping the GI Lights, and we have some new easier, UV strips we have, but a new method in the works that would keep your GI, and add UV, wherever you want.....this might make a neat look too. (This will also be adapted into new Post lights)

    The biggest point, is you need to try them, because digital cameras enhance them quite a bit.

    They are definitely noticeable....way cool.....

    I think the more we as a community experiment, share, and support Matt at Titan......Only good things will continue.

    But, these GITD have a home, and lets see how we can help make them the Best!

    #665 4 years ago

    Crazy thought....any way to make a dual flex head LED that has one UV and one white head? I know that's pretty extreme...

    My last picture is some random LED you threw in with my last order... I'd really like to know what it actually is as it's SUBSTANTALLY brighter than the 5-way UV LEDs I have in all the other sockets, but still triggers the UV reactiveness of the paint and these rubbers...not to mention it seems to fit okay in the stupid retarded tiny socket holes on Crescendo.. it's some kind of flex head, but I don't know if it's pink, purple, UV or what...it wasn't labled.

    #666 4 years ago
    Quoted from Frax:

    Crazy thought....any way to make a dual flex head LED that has one UV and one white head? I know that's pretty extreme...
    My last picture is some random LED you threw in with my last order... I'd really like to know what it actually is as it's SUBSTANTALLY brighter than the 5-way UV LEDs I have in all the other sockets, but still triggers the UV reactiveness of the paint and these rubbers...not to mention it seems to fit okay in the stupid retarded tiny socket holes on Crescendo.. it's some kind of flex head, but I don't know if it's pink, purple, UV or what...it wasn't labled.

    Something like what you are thinking.....although a single UV SMD doesnt light too much on this as I saw it, Whats coming...Its better...I think, but yes, I could make a 2 headed flex with one being UV....

    If you wish to send me a pic, I can answer.....I think its a UV Flex head

    #667 4 years ago

    Is there a timeline for the 4" and tapered conical posts? And are the fatter 7/8" (yellow originally) being considered for the next set of molds? Your selection is already awesome and it seems like you don't have too far to go to round everything out. I put on a bunch more of these on our route games this morning and wanted to thank you again for all your hard work. I will definitely NOT be missing those "HAPP crap" rubbers.

    #668 4 years ago

    The tapered posts are in production now (along with post caps and beaded flippers). The next batch will include 4, 4 1/2, and the rebound rubbers. After that, we'll start working on the more esoteric parts like fatter posts, ramp ends, and T-posts. I think we're still on schedule to get just about everything by the end of the year.

    It's great to hear you are enjoying them

    #669 4 years ago
    Quoted from Titan_Pinball:

    more esoteric parts like fatter posts

    Any chance that might include the TOTAN lamp bumpers? Mine look like crap.

    #670 4 years ago
    Quoted from herg:

    Any chance that might include the TOTAN lamp bumpers? Mine look like crap.

    It's certainly possible. Is this the 3/4 x 5/8 rubber? Does anyone know if it was used on any other game?

    #671 4 years ago

    I just realized something about these rings too. If you have slingshots or any other ring in an open area that does not require removing the plastic, you can simply stretch them over the posts without taking anything apart. This is much more difficult/impractical with regular rubbers because they are less flexible.

    #673 4 years ago
    Quoted from Titan_Pinball:

    Is this the 3/4 x 5/8 rubber? Does anyone know if it was used on any other game?

    Hmmm... I don't really know.

    IPDB parts list has it as:

    865 ..3 23-6770 bumper 2

    Searching Marco for that part number brings up a 3/4 x 5/8, but the part number on the Marco page is different.
    http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=23-6770

    #674 4 years ago

    Maybe Marco is using their own reference number.

    #675 4 years ago
    Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

    Tron/kiss spinning discs possible?

    Hmm. I don't know if silicone would be a good material there. I can always look into it.

    #676 4 years ago

    Well I'm sorry to be the first to report some minor damage with one of the rings in White Water. This is the one installed to the left of the boulder garden bumper. There is a small split at the bend of the narrow post where the ball has hit over time. I finished the machine about a month ago to give a relative timeframe. I rotated it and will see if this happens again. Would you suggest installing a fatter post here?

    image.jpg image-850.jpg
    #677 4 years ago

    I think a fatter post would help. I can see on my games that style post will be an issue with any rubber.

    #678 4 years ago

    I would go fatter post?

    Is that the correct factory post? I find those are always a problem with all rubbers especially when doing a 180 tight turn

    #679 4 years ago

    I wish they would print the sizes on the bags with shipping and they wouldn't mix the rubbers together when purchasing. It sure makes it easier to find things.

    #680 4 years ago
    Quoted from wdpvideo:

    I wish they would print the sizes on the bags with shipping and they wouldn't mix the rubbers together when purchasing. It sure makes it easier to find things.

    Have to agree with you. Hopefully with time Titan will add that feature.

    #681 4 years ago
    Quoted from wdpvideo:

    I wish they would print the sizes on the bags with shipping and they wouldn't mix the rubbers together when purchasing. It sure makes it easier to find things.

    I think the sizes are on the rings themselves.

    #682 4 years ago
    Quoted from chuckwurt:

    I think the sizes are on the rings themselves.

    They are, but some rubbers depending on color and size can be very difficult to read the small font.

    #683 4 years ago
    Quoted from chuckwurt:

    I think the sizes are on the rings themselves.

    They are but I can't read the small ones plus it not that hard to print a sticker on the bag. Marco does it every day.

    #684 4 years ago
    Quoted from neverahighscore:

    They are, but some rubbers depending on color and size can be very difficult to read the small font.

    Oh I see what you're saying. My bad.

    #685 4 years ago

    Crash . Is that post bent ? or does it just look that way in the pic .

    Also check the post for a sharp edge at the groove . I've had posts before with a small sharp edge there from repeated ball hits . If you don't file the sharp edge off it will just chew through a new rubber .

    #686 4 years ago

    Thanks for the feedback concerning the packaging.

    It's something that comes to mind quite often when we are putting orders together.
    The primary reason we don't separate the sizes is due to package size/volume.
    When we separate them, the packages get bigger and they're harder to fit in our envelopes.
    We really like to be able to offer First Class shipping, but when we have to use boxes the weight gets too high to qualify.

    A good example is the Bulk Pack. We Tetris it into an envelope and the weight is just under 13 oz.
    If it was separated, we'd have to use a box and ship Priority Mail.

    However, I completely understand the want to have them separated.
    I'll start looking into ways to change our workflow to accommodate this.

    Would we need to separate by size only, or does it need to be size and color?

    Thanks again for the suggestions. They are always welcome.

    #687 4 years ago

    Click this image, save as, print full size (no scaling), read the inside of your ring for it's size

    http://pbresource.com/rubber/rubberchart.jpg

    rubberchart.jpg

    #688 4 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Click this image, save as, print full size (no scaling), read the inside of your ring for it's size

    I had trouble seeing this at the right size just off the jpeg, so I scaled it properly inside a PDF, should be fire and forget easy to print this one:

    pbr-ring-sizes.pdf

    #689 4 years ago

    You should send that to Steve!

    Steve-Young.jpg
    #691 4 years ago

    chicken!

    I've found steve to be a very reasonable, knowledgeable and nice guy. heck, I even managed to get him to produce the darker blue colored faceted star posts for all of us stern star gazer and sea witch owners.

    #692 4 years ago
    Quoted from Titan_Pinball:

    However, I completely understand the want to have them separated.
    I'll start looking into ways to change our workflow to accommodate this.
    Would we need to separate by size only, or does it need to be size and color?

    could you use the "bread bag" style ties and group the rubbers together? that way you could still have them all in the same bag, they would just be tied together.

    just a suggestion.

    #693 4 years ago

    We are currently working on some new integration between the kit database and the (soon to be live) new website. If you have any kits to enter, please wait a couple of days to do so.

    The new features are really exciting!
    I think everyone will enjoy the new site.

    Thanks,
    -Matt

    #694 4 years ago

    Here's what a Tron needs if you want to add to your database:

    3 Flipper Rubber
    2 - 2 inch
    2 - 1-1/2 inch
    6 - 1-1/4 inch
    9 - 3/16 post rings
    6 - 7/16 mini post rubbers
    1 - plunger tip rubber

    #695 4 years ago

    I am SUPER interested in these rings. I have been debating whether or not these rings fit the play-style I am trying to build into my games. I want to standardize what goes where, for a consistent, yet difficult, playability across games.

    I use Real rubber from PBL on the flippers, and depending on the game (not just based on looks, but based on playability) I choose a specific rubber. I have Yellow on BSD. Red on DH, BR, and HD. White on Playboy 2002. Green on POTC. Orange on IJ. Purple on BDK, with lightning flippers. I like the variance in the rubbers, and that it keeps players on their toes when playing a variety of my games.

    I use Super Bands post sleeves. I won't [probably ever] use Super Bands on the flippers or rings. I really like the stickiness, and rebound ability of the SB posts. I think it makes missing a shot much more dangerous. I'd be curious about others' opinions on these or standard post sleeves compared to the competition silicone posts, but I stock the hell out of these SB posts in case they do go out of style.

    I currently use white rubber rings throughout the game (I prefer Marco sets, at this point). This is where I am most interested in utilizing the Titan competition silicone rings. My hangup is the playability.

    I do not want a slower game. I do not want an easier game. I want the same or harder playability as white rubber rings. There has been a lot of commentary on the comparison between these and regular flipper rubber. I cannot recall as much discussion on the rings. I remember someone saying they play faster, which would certainly be fine with me. Those that have these, how do they play compared to white rubber rings?

    Playability is subjective - at least that is what I've learned from my League members, who say my games play like I hate them. Although, ultimately, I know the answer is to bite the bullet, and set 'em up for my own personal comparison. I am very curious on others' thoughts on these rings.

    Thanks!

    #697 4 years ago
    Quoted from CaryCarmichael:

    I want the same or harder playability as white rubber rings. There has been a lot of commentary on the comparison between these and regular flipper rubber. I cannot recall as much discussion on the rings. I remember someone saying they play faster, which would certainly be fine with me. Those that have these, how do they play compared to white rubber rings?

    vid has a thread where he tested the rubber rings against standard white rubber, and found that the rebound was pretty much the same.

    Check it out here for the details: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/titans-competition-silicone-rubber-vids-review

    Edit: Damnit vid, I would have posted before you but I took the time to search for your thread!

    #699 4 years ago

    Looking to make and order for my new acquisition. Fire! Has those cone shaped rubbers on either side of the ramps. Are these available? I thought I saw you were getting them, but didn't see them on the new site.

    #700 4 years ago

    I believe they are about a month out from production on the conical posts.

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