Quoted from SkitBPinball:You seem to know what you're talking about. Please get with me personally if you have the time to point me in the right direction on new cameras to check out. The one we have here isn't so much a "budget model" from a casual consumer's standpoint, but just because the box says 1080p recording doesn't mean it's good. Honestly, the camera is like 3 years old now and the Lumia 1020 cell phone could probably keep up with it at this point.
Spfxted is probably your guy.
What I'd recommend with what you have for your LIT shots to show playfield detail, is as much light as you can muster but only about 1/4 pointed directly at the playfield. The rest should be reflected off the ceiling, etc. Use only incandescent, no CFLs or florescents.
If you have a bunch of clamp work lights, those are cheap light.
For dark stuff that is punctuated by random bright flashing lights, it's just a whole nother level of equipment and lighting skills. But the cheap and dirty: If your camera has an auto-iris or auto-exposure you would turn it to manual. Then you'd have experiment to find a good balance between ambient lighting and exposure.
For UV light, this article might explain the challenges:
http://www.wildfirefx.com/resources/tutorials/uvforfilm.aspx
In particular:
"When shooting fluorescent effects, you’ll need much more light—a much brighter effect, in other words—than you would for a live audience. Human eyes are much more sensitive to the fluorescent effect than film."