(Topic ID: 335064)

New pop bumper bodies shorter and bulbs touch caps

By mmr61184

1 year ago


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  • 18 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by mmr61184
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    #1 1 year ago

    I posted this in the TAF thread as I was going back and forth with a few members and wanted to ask the broader community. I usually keep things as close to original as possible but discovered if you use frosted glass spray paint on clear pop bumper bodies its has a pretty cool look as opposed to the ugly looking white opaque OEM bodies. The problem is the clear bodies produced by Zitt are slightly shorter maybe by like an 1/8 of an inch and when you put the bumper caps on them the #555 bulb touches the caps and I am concerned about the heat from the bulb. Also being more of a purist I stick to incandescent bulbs, I have not jumped on the LED bandwagon as I prefer the look.

    1) if the game is in a HUO environment and is not sitting on all day is the heat from the bulbs that much of a concern

    2) are there shorter versions of a wedge bulb that will fit inside the bumper body that would work

    3) I thought about putting a silicone o-ring on the inside of the bumper caps to build them up a tiny bit any thought on that idea would help

    #2 1 year ago

    Pics for reference, (new bumpers old playfield)

    F771E324-EAA4-4944-9DA6-DC71E8598ADB (resized).jpegF771E324-EAA4-4944-9DA6-DC71E8598ADB (resized).jpeg
    #3 1 year ago

    For those bodies I would try star post lamps in the bottom.

    https://www.cometpinball.com/products/star-post-lights?_pos=2&_sid=496dffb10&_ss=r

    Edit: Just noticed you want to stick with incandescents. Since Addams bumpers are switched and not GI you should be fine with incandescents touching the caps in a home environment. Is there a cooler alternative to #555s?

    #4 1 year ago

    What type of socket do you have? I know some are taller than others.

    Lamp matrix may run cooler but I know with GI bulbs I've seen them generate a good amount of heat fairly quickly, home environment didn't help.

    I don't know of any alternative incandescents you could use

    Maybe get some clear washers or something to raise up the cap?

    #5 1 year ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    What type of socket do you have? I know some are taller than others.
    Lamp matrix may run cooler but I know with GI bulbs I've seen them generate a good amount of heat fairly quickly, home environment didn't help.
    I don't know of any alternative incandescents you could use
    Maybe get some clear washers or something to raise up the cap?

    The traditional wedge socket with the metal leads

    #6 1 year ago
    Quoted from mmr61184:

    Also being more of a purist I stick to incandescent bulbs, I have not jumped on the LED bandwagon as I prefer the look.

    I used to be the same way until I restored a TAF for someone else years ago and installed LED's. Just for fun, I set it next to mine that had incandescents.

    The difference was night and day. The LED'd one looked SO much better than my dim, tired looking one.

    Needless to say, I wouldn't dream of restoring a game these days and not put in LED's.

    And FWIW, you only need 2 types of LED's to do an entire game.

    #7 1 year ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    I used to be the same way until I restored a TAF for someone else years ago and installed LED's. Just for fun, I set it next to mine that had incandescents.
    The difference was night and day. The LED'd one looked SO much better than my dim, tired looking one.
    Needless to say, I wouldn't dream of restoring a game these days and not put in LED's.
    And FWIW, you only need 2 types of LED's to do an entire game.

    Interesting, don’t you need some special circuit board though to hook the GI upto or do you just put the bulbs in all the sockets

    #8 1 year ago
    Quoted from mmr61184:

    Interesting, don’t you need some special circuit board though to hook the GI upto or do you just put the bulbs in all the sockets

    I use the LED OCD boards. They smooth out the on/off of the LED's so they look identical to incandescents only brighter.

    However, I have a good friend who uses the same LED's as me and no boards. He doesn't care that the LED's are an instant on/instant off.

    #9 1 year ago

    Buy a hundred pack of these in wedge base and bayonet base.

    Sunlight color, frosted lens.

    That's all you need....period.

    https://www.cometpinball.com/products/2smd-bulbs

    #10 1 year ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    Buy a hundred pack of these in wedge base and bayonet base.
    Sunlight color, frosted lens.
    That's all you need....period.
    https://www.cometpinball.com/products/2smd-bulbs

    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    I use the LED OCD boards. They smooth out the on/off of the LED's so they look identical to incandescents only brighter.
    However, I have a good friend who uses the same LED's as me and no boards. He doesn't care that the LED's are an instant on/instant off.

    I am a pain in the ass so chances are I will look into the ocd board as well if I go that route

    #11 1 year ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    Buy a hundred pack of these in wedge base and bayonet base.
    Sunlight color, frosted lens.
    That's all you need....period.
    https://www.cometpinball.com/products/2smd-bulbs

    I assume flashers remain incandescent

    #12 1 year ago
    Quoted from mmr61184:

    I assume flashers remain incandescent

    Absolutely! LED's are just too damn bright and can be blinding.

    #13 1 year ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    Absolutely! LED's are just too damn bright and can be blinding.

    Thank you sir, you just opened up another can of worms

    #14 1 year ago
    Quoted from mmr61184:

    Thank you sir, you just opened up another can of worms

    Forgot to mention, with the pop bodies you have, you can remove the frosted cap on the LED by squeezing the cap close to the base with a needle nose pliers. Go around in a circle until it pops off.

    Like I said, you only need 2 types of LED's. It don't get much simpler than that!

    #15 1 year ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    Forgot to mention, with the pop bodies you have, you can remove the frosted cap on the LED by squeezing the cap close to the base with a needle nose pliers. Go around in a circle until it pops off.
    Like I said, you only need 2 types of LED's. It don't get much simpler than that!

    Just read up on the ocd boards I will definitely order those if I go all LED.

    And you don’t have to worry about color matching the inserts? That all just marketing on comets part

    #16 1 year ago
    Quoted from mmr61184:

    Just read up on the ocd boards I will definitely order those if I go all LED.
    And you don’t have to worry about color matching the inserts? That all just marketing on comets part

    I use to color match cause that's what everyone did. It was the in thing to do.

    Then I did that TAF with nothing but sunlight and the game just looked like it was meant to look only brighter.

    Red inserts should look red....not RED!!!! Blues should be blue....not BLUE!!! I just want the inserts to look like they were supposed to look, not more intense.

    Having said all that, there are situations where certain LED's, like the flex head and the like, might work better but it's not worth the hassle of stocking them all. At least it's not for me. In other words, you can beat this LED thing to death if you want. I choose not to.

    And if you put any kind of color in your GI, I will personally fly to Fairfield and smack you up side the head!

    #17 1 year ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    I use to color match cause that's what everyone did. It was the in thing to do.
    Then I did that TAF with nothing but sunlight and the game just looked like it was meant to look only brighter.
    Red inserts should look red....not RED!!!! Blues should be blue....not BLUE!!! I just want the inserts to look like they were supposed to look, not more intense.
    Having said all that, there are situations where certain LED's, like the flex head and the like, might work better but it's not worth the hassle of stocking them all. At least it's not for me. In other words, you can beat this LED thing to death if you want. I choose not to.
    And if you put any kind of color in your GI, I will personally fly to Fairfield and smack you up side the head!

    Haha, I am with you while you may have converted me to the LEDs I don’t think I would stray too far from my purist roots just as you said a subtle upgrade on how the game was supposed to look 30 years ago is fine with me. While some love the look I hate when it’s an explosion of mods, powder coating everywhere, and rainbow colored LEDs.

    You don’t have to worry about me putting rainbow in the GI trust me. Although would be worth it to throw a few colored ones in to meet you in person hahah

    #18 1 year ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    I use to color match cause that's what everyone did. It was the in thing to do.
    Then I did that TAF with nothing but sunlight and the game just looked like it was meant to look only brighter.
    Red inserts should look red....not RED!!!! Blues should be blue....not BLUE!!! I just want the inserts to look like they were supposed to look, not more intense.
    Having said all that, there are situations where certain LED's, like the flex head and the like, might work better but it's not worth the hassle of stocking them all. At least it's not for me. In other words, you can beat this LED thing to death if you want. I choose not to.
    And if you put any kind of color in your GI, I will personally fly to Fairfield and smack you up side the head!

    I did it, ordered all the frosted LEDs last night and both OCD boards!

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