(Topic ID: 228623)

*NEW* Classic Bally/Stern LED Displays by PINITECH - Plasma Contender!

By acebathound

5 years ago


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  • 126 posts
  • 45 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 months ago by HoakyPoaky
  • Topic is favorited by 32 Pinsiders

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    There are 126 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
    #101 4 years ago

    I have been working on a xenon project for a couple years and finally made it to the display part of restoration. Always preferred the look of original plasma displays .these uno displays give me the best option for that original look.I chose the diy kit.Items arrived quickly and very well packaged.Overall quality of components was excellent.Build time was about 5 1/2 hours for me to get them completed.It was my first time doing these so subsequent builds will go much quicker.This is white displays so I had some other color filters included.There are many tiny solder connections so as suggested it would be best to break up your sessions.I hammered down and did most of it on first day.My eyes we a bit fatigued as a result but no permanent harm done.Looking forward to getting them into my game soon.More pics to follow.Install complete & looking great!This is a white set.First pic is with blue filters,pic two is natural white.

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    1 month later
    #102 3 years ago

    Just ordered a 7 digit white set and gels. Looking forward to getting them assembled and into my Fathom. For some reason three of my original displays have gone all at the same time. Each with different small issues. Time to eliminate the issue entirely and move to LED.

    2 months later
    #103 3 years ago

    How do the filters go on? Do they fall off easily?

    #104 3 years ago

    Which style are people getting - the uno or the duo? I get the benefit of adjustment of the uno, so not sure what the benefit is of the duo?

    #105 3 years ago
    Quoted from Clnilsen:

    How do the filters go on? Do they fall off easily?

    The filters are applied to the digits with double sided tape included with the kits. Shouldn't fall off if you apply the tape around the border of the digits per the diagram in the instructions.

    Quoted from Clnilsen:

    Which style are people getting - the uno or the duo? I get the benefit of adjustment of the uno, so not sure what the benefit is of the duo?

    The UNO design is more popular. Sometimes the two board (TRADITIONAL) design is better if the game has lamp surrounds that are tight against the display holder bracket. Games with under-playfield displays would also need to use the TRADITIONAL style display in that position due to tight clearances.

    If you have any additional questions before ordering or want to let me know what game the displays would be for to verify anything, send me a PM here on Pinside and I'm happy to help!

    ---
    http://www.pinitech.com - "Pinball Inspired Technology"
    NVRAM, Bally/Stern LED Displays & Mods for pinball machines

    #106 3 years ago

    I have the new style unos in my xenon and it looks stellar. Way better than old style LEDs: these new styled digits make a world of difference. The filters attach with tape and the surround foam locks them in place so they don't pull against it. It helps to work a good crease into the filter when installing.

    #107 3 years ago
    Quoted from semicolin:

    I have the new style unos in my xenon and it looks stellar. Way better than old style LEDs: these new styled digits make a world of difference. The filters attach with tape and the surround foam locks them in place so they don't pull against it. It helps to work a good crease into the filter when installing.

    Thanks for the comments about the new custom digits! Glad to hear that comparison to the generic digits!


    That's a good point you made with creasing the filter..I've done that and was also going to start recommending it in the instructions. Most of the filters are now cut at about 6in length as of earlier this year. That allows you to crease them at their edges (matching the span of the digit blocks). Then when you put the foam block on the digits, the filter can tuck between the left-most and right-most digit and foam light block. The filter will hold tight and the double-sided tape isn't even needed at that point.

    Easy way to crease at the right length the first time (and so it sits flat) would be to cut a piece of paper the same length as the digit span. Then center it on top of the filter, mark the edges with a sharpie & crease. Rinse & repeat. Then filter goes over the digits, foam over the digits, and it's not going anywhere.

    ---
    http://www.pinitech.com - "Pinball Inspired Technology"
    NVRAM, Bally/Stern LED Displays & Mods for pinball machines

    3 months later
    #108 3 years ago

    Can you add Lost World to your display mock up link?

    1 week later
    #109 3 years ago

    I'd love to know how much a set of these for a Stern Nine Ball would cost but there's no prices listed on the site?

    #110 3 years ago
    Quoted from arzoo:

    I'd love to know how much a set of these for a Stern Nine Ball would cost but there's no prices listed on the site?

    Shopping cart links currently offline thru 11/27

    #111 3 years ago

    Wayne closed stuff down to relax over the Thanksgiving weekend. We just had dinner with him and he said he just needed a break so he closed down for a few days. I expect he will likely be doing the same thing over Christmas.

    If you are not in business for yourself you likely will not understand but the stress of running a business and keeping up with everything takes a toll on you and sometimes you just need a few days of "down time" so you can hit the road running again. Unlike having a "real job" running a small business doesn't end at dinner time and you don't get weekends off. Seven days a week - 12 to 14 hours a day is my typical schedule. Wayne isn't that crazy but he still works some long hours at times.

    Figured I would post a reply because I doubt he will be looking at Pinside until Monday.

    5 months later
    #112 2 years ago

    I’m looking to get these for my Eight Ball Deluxe and Evel Knievel. Any issues using the Uno kit instead of the traditional? Will the Uno be a drop-in or will I need some sort of modification for an EBD or EK install?

    #113 2 years ago

    I'm not 100% positive, but the only modification will be to kill your high voltage. I went the extra step and removed the connector pin that supplies the high voltage to the displays so there's no chance of it ever seeing it.

    #114 2 years ago
    Quoted from ToucanF16:

    I’m looking to get these for my Eight Ball Deluxe and Evel Knievel. Any issues using the Uno kit instead of the traditional? Will the Uno be a drop-in or will I need some sort of modification for an EBD or EK install?

    No modifications needed when using the UNO displays. As suggested, you could remove the high voltage fuse is you want to, but it's not necessary.

    You'll be re-using the screws that hold the display holder (metal piece). So you need to remove the display holder before installing the UNO displays. I've put them on 3 different machines and like them very much.

    #115 2 years ago

    I've only got one set of UNOs built and installed but they didn't even include the connector pin for the high voltage (excellent idea), so removing the wire or the fuse isn't entirely necessary.

    #116 2 years ago
    Quoted from play_pinball:

    I've only got one set of UNOs built and installed but they didn't even include the connector pin for the high voltage (excellent idea), so removing the wire or the fuse isn't entirely necessary.

    Yep, the original plasma displays and most led displays on the market have a 20-pin header. High voltage comes in at Pin #1. On LED displays, my thinking was it's a bad idea to say they're low voltage and still have high voltage coming in to dead-end at a solder point. You can get zapped big-time if you're playing around with displays while the game is on and happen to touch the solder side of where Pin #1 dead-ends. Believe me, I know After having that happen a few times while playing with the initial prototype run boards, I switched to a 19-pin header on the displays. No chance of high voltage being on the board itself even if you've left the high voltage fuse connected. It's still all plug-and-play like the originals as far as plugging the displays in, just that Pin #1 doesn't exist on the board.

    If upgrading to a full set of LED displays you can completely disable the high voltage circuits by removing the fuse(s). Not completely necessary as people have mentioned, but no need for the circuit to be running in the background (even without load) when it's not being used.

    ---
    http://www.pinitech.com - "Pinball Inspired Technology"
    NVRAM, Bally/Stern LED Displays & Mods for pinball machines

    1 week later
    #117 2 years ago

    acebathound do you recommend pulling the #1 header pin out of the connector, cutting the connector down to 9, or can I use a 9 pin connector in that spot? (I think there are some in the bag) My first try, and I just got to step 15.

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    #118 2 years ago

    Ah, nevermind. It seems you include a 10 and a 9 pin connector for this, and I can leave pin 1 exposed. I recommend an edit of step 15 in the instructions.

    5 months later
    #119 2 years ago

    When you say removing fuses is that all the fuses in the bottom of the game? I have Centaur. I also see one fuse on the SDB, do I remove that as well?

    Quoted from acebathound:

    Yep, the original plasma displays and most led displays on the market have a 20-pin header. High voltage comes in at Pin #1. On LED displays, my thinking was it's a bad idea to say they're low voltage and still have high voltage coming in to dead-end at a solder point. You can get zapped big-time if you're playing around with displays while the game is on and happen to touch the solder side of where Pin #1 dead-ends. Believe me, I know After having that happen a few times while playing with the initial prototype run boards, I switched to a 19-pin header on the displays. No chance of high voltage being on the board itself even if you've left the high voltage fuse connected. It's still all plug-and-play like the originals as far as plugging the displays in, just that Pin #1 doesn't exist on the board.
    If upgrading to a full set of LED displays you can completely disable the high voltage circuits by removing the fuse(s). Not completely necessary as people have mentioned, but no need for the circuit to be running in the background (even without load) when it's not being used.
    ---
    http://www.pinitech.com - "Pinball Inspired Technology"
    NVRAM, Bally/Stern LED Displays & Mods for pinball machines

    #120 2 years ago

    Only the fuse on the SDB, which is high voltage for the displays. Also not entirely necessary per the post you quoted since the displays don’t have the header pin on them.

    5 months later
    #121 1 year ago

    Hello fellow Pinsiders,

    I felt like I should write a few words regarding the Pinitech displays.

    I am one to research everything extensively before making a decision, and after spending hours going through the forums, these displays seemed to meet my financial and performance needs.

    After receiving the Uno 7-digit displays, I spread the assembly of them all over a couple of days. The first one took the longest for me, as I took my time, but the rest fell into place quickly. The instructions were very easy to follow, and all of the displays work perfectly with my limited experience.

    What a great product!!

    I am very impressed with the quality of the product and especially happy with the color match to the original displays. These will certainly be my go-to product on all display replacements in the future.

    Between ordering these displays and the short time of them arriving, I had acquired another machine that had a set of competitors displays already installed in the game. In my opinion, they don’t even compare. Pinitech’s displays and filters look so much better and identical to stock displays. And, they are practically invisible when the game is not on - unlike the other game, which always has the visible segments.

    On a side note, I should mention that I went with the white displays and am using the orange filters. Two color filters (in a list of many to choose from) are included with the display set, along with a smoke grey, which will be able to suit every need - either for a stock or custom look…and at a very affordable price!

    Thanks Wayne at Pinitech for all of your hard work in producing such a great product! All of your time and effort spent making sure these were just right has surely paid off.

    Do not hesitate to purchase your next set of displays from Pinitech - you will not be disappointed!

    #122 1 year ago

    Indeed. Dude rules.

    #123 1 year ago
    Quoted from Theganch:

    Hello fellow Pinsiders,
    I felt like I should write a few words regarding the Pinitech displays.

    Thank you for your comments! I'm really happy to hear feedback from so many people over the last few years that have taken a chance on the "little guy" selling something unique by buying these display kits. So thank you to you & others that took that chance! These were created as a personal challenge to get something as close as possible to the look of plasma displays since I wasn't happy with how some other displays looked or functioned. When people email or message out of the blue to let you know that you created something unique, it makes the time/effort that went into the design feel very worthwhile.

    Enjoy!

    ---
    http://www.pinitech.com - "Pinball Inspired Technology"
    NVRAM, Bally/Stern LED Displays & Mods for pinball machines

    9 months later
    #124 1 year ago

    Just received my 6-digit Uno kit for my Bobby Orr's Power Play and am looking forward to putting them together. Packaging of the components was outstanding and the instructions seem very straightforward. I'll post up some pics of the finished project after I'm done. I'm excited to get this last "big" thing done to my machine. The plasma displays have been suffering for a while, now.

    #125 1 year ago

    Finished installing the displays into my BOPP yesterday. I am very impressed with how they turned out. They look *exactly* like the originals, which is what I wanted. Color is great, fitment is great! Assembly was straightforward, too. The kits are well organized. I am an average solderer, and used a 25W Weller pencil iron for the job. I did have a small vise and a magnifying headlamp which really helped me, also. The first board took me about 2 hours to put together, but after that I think I got down to about 45 minutes. I also took the opportunity to re-pin all the display end connectors in the backbox since I was in there, and I removed the high-voltage fuse from the rectifier board since I don't need it anymore.

    Overall, I'm very happy with the result and I would say if you're thinking about updating your displays, even if you're not a super-star solder wizard, consider these.

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    3 months later
    #126 10 months ago

    Been meaning to post this but I kept forgetting. I have the same thing to say as everyone else… I love these Pinitech UNO displays. I don’t buy anything else when doing a restore. My soldering skills are average at best & I’ve never had a problem assembling these. This is the 3rd set I’ve assembled. White displays with gel inserts.

    This Ali was a unique project that involved modifying the existing code to add more rules & features. The code was altered to support 7-digit displays, so no more score rollovers. I always use a secondary color gel insert in the credit display for a unique look. There’s nothing wrong with the 4th player display, as it shows the high spinner rip to date in the attract mode.

    Another satisfied customer

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