What's the difference between Neo Pinstadiums and Omegas? Also, do game-specific instructions and parts come with the Pinstadiums?

If anyone here has added Pinstadiums to any of these games and has an opinion, from my collection I'm definitely thinking of doing Alice Cooper, Wizard of Oz, Willy Wonka, Iron Maiden, and then from there I'm not sure. Might do four more, remaining candidates are Rick & Morty, Munsters, Deadpool, JJPotC, Dialed In, The Big Lebowski, Hot Wheels, Oktoberfest, Houdini, Full Throttle, Jurassic Park.

No on The Hobbit, Beatles, Simpsons, and Batman; already very bright games. Avengers IQ already has Omegas. Don't want them on older games and GB, GI, and MB are getting traded or sold sometime soon.

Thanks Scott. Just to be sure here before I buy: The Neo Pinstadium will do green, red, and other non-white/UV colors, and will autosync those colors from the GI or flasher it's tied into? You mention color mixing, but I just want them to automatically copy the GI colors on games that already have RGB GI.

I have a bunch of Omegas to install. What do I use for instructions, regular Pinstadiums here? https://pinstadium.com/installation-instructions-pin-stadiums/

One down, many to go. Really quite easy to install, my only problem is I can't get the app to work. It found the lights I installed on Wonka, but the app won't do anything. Brightness, color temp, on/off, nothing. It says it's globally connected but not locally. Do the Pinstadiums really need a good connection to the router? Because this is down in my basement where I ran an ethernet cable because the wifi is awful down there. It's weird that the app managed to find the Pinstadiums, yet I can't control/connect to them.

Also gonna ask in the Wonka thread, but if anyone has an alternate location for the flasher connection on Wonka other than the shaker motor, I'd like to hear it. The shaker isn't used enough, so most games I'm getting just a blink here and there of UV.

And Scott gets my number off the order and texts me shortly after and we walk through my problem on the phone at 2:30am. That's some killer support! Thanks again.

For anyone who might be having similar troubles, my Android phone was giving me all of 5-10 seconds to choose the Pinstadium connection in the wifi settings, go back to the Pinstadium app and connect back to my regular network before dropping the Pinstadium connection and putting me back on one of the home wifi networks. It also kept putting me on the 5G home network, so tell your phone to forget that connection if it keeps trying to put you there.

I was going to connect my UV line to the copter flasher. May turn out to be a little excessive, though. Is there a copter on the pro? I don't remember.

Hey Scott, is there any other method to reset Pinstadiums that aren't resetting with the "unplug/replug 5 times" method? I got a used Star Wars this week with Pinstadiums already on them, there's no GI coming through the Pinstadiums even though it's hooked up properly underneath, just the UV Glow/Flasher works. Which I assume was the previous owner's setting (0% GI), and I want to change that but several attempts at the unplug/replug method isn't making them show up in the app.

I also hooked up Omegas to my Jurassic Park and Deadpool tonight. The Wolverine flasher insert is a brilliant choice for UV for Deadpool. On JP I used the flasher below the copter, which is a bit excessive, but I don't mind.

Installed Omegas on Rick & Morty and Hot Wheels tonight. R&M was tricky, the wiretaps just wouldn't make good connections into the shaker motor connectors so I decided to use the alligator clips instead and that worked well. Here's a photo to help future R&M installers.

IMG_20210116_185930 (resized).jpg

And R&M at 30% white, which is what I've settled on for now:

IMG_20210116_191029 (resized).jpg

Here's Hot Wheels:

IMG_20210116_205044 (resized).jpg

I have an odd issue, though. If I set the white under about 80% it flickers, and the lower I set the white in the app, the more noticeable is the flicker to the point where it almost looks like a strobe light. So I have to have these at 80% for now, which is rather bright. Not sure if a simple on/off will fix things, or it's because the recommended GI tie in is in the backboard LEDs, and maybe their power pulses really quickly rather than a steady on? Or maybe my connection is a little loose, or who knows. Might be nothing, just bringing this up if Scott has heard of this strange "dimmer = more flicker" effect before.

Just for clarity, Rick & Morty has a service outlet, which is what I plugged my PS Omegas into. But ACNC and before, yep.

Hey Scott, got my order in, thanks. I was saving this question for the forum since it could be useful public knowledge. Most of my existing Pinstadiums are Omegas (white/UV), but since you don't sell those anymore, I got regular Pinstadiums this time. Some of my pins that have Omega would be better off with the color models, and vice versa. Can I just swap the light strips + control unit between pins and keep the hookups and power supply in place? I assume I can do that, but wanted to make sure.

Did up my PotC with Pinstadiums and Lior/Art of Pinball replacement plastics tonight. Snazzy! (this is not the default color, I just took the photo in attract mode when all the inserts and RGB GI were blue)

potc pinstadiums lior.jpg

Also removed the distracting pair of spotlights from the left inlanes, but had to leave the post in for now because I couldn't find a nut to take its place. On any other day I could find ten nuts of that size, but today in a pinch when I needed one, nahhh.

Trading a game and the fella doesn't want the Pinstadiums that are on it. Any techniques for taking the magnet strips off the side walls? I figure just going slowly with a clean paint scraper will be fine, but in case they're not coming off smoothly -- hair dryer? Freeze spray? I do want to re-use the strips/lights on another machine.

Thanks Scott.