(Topic ID: 186589)

***NEW*** PIN STADIUM Pinball Machine LED lights Mod Announcement!!!


By pinstadium

2 years ago



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  • 454 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by delt31
  • Topic is favorited by 143 Pinsiders

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“What do you think of the new Invisi-Shields?”

  • Great idea (want them) 25 votes
    25%
  • Love them(own them) 48 votes
    48%
  • Not sure 26 votes
    26%

(99 votes)

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#247 2 years ago

I saw these in action on a few different machines this weekend and it's really impressive. I'm not usually one to mod games much and don't really mind a game being a little darker but the ease of adjusting these (or just turning them off) is what sold me for a set for WOZ. Really looking forward to getting them now, great job Scott!

2 months later
#431 2 years ago

Hey Scott, it's August - start shipping already!

#434 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Bob what games are you putting this in?

Just WOZ to start with as it's the one in my collection that I think needs the most help with GI. Since I can control the brightness of the lighting over my pin row it's not a big deal unless there are others playing the other games which don't need as much lighting help. I thought this would be a good way to give it some GI "help" that's still very controllable as opposed to the add-on kits that are all or nothing. I also wanted to support Scott's efforts to get his product off the ground so it should be a win-win for me.

1 month later
#472 2 years ago

Less picture / video taking - more shipping!

1 week later
#505 2 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Any vids of a woz with light kit installed ?

I've been trying to capture good video of mine but other things (especially the new game I just added to the lineup) are keeping me from devoting enough time to it. I hope to have something worthy of posting by this weekend. I don't have any kind of streaming setup so a DSLR on a tripod is the best I can do. I'll also post my review of the kit in WOZ at the same time.

#526 2 years ago

Here are a couple videos I shot of the kit in my WOZ last night. I don't have a good setup for shooting these because my tripod is pretty short so the angle isn't great and it makes the LCD glare look a lot worse than it does to the eye. I have the GI tied to a GI light in the back right corner and the UV Glow Flasher connected to the Red Witch Flasher. WOZ is a real challenge on both fronts and I'm still searching to see if there is a better place to connect the GI to. As for the Flasher, WOZ only has two flashers - the white and red ones inside the witch "dome", I'm also going to continue to experiment with that and see if there's a better choice. I left the three spotlights (GI) on in my game so there's a little ambient lighting when the GI for PS cuts off. With the current setup the GI cuts off quite a bit including during all the CB modes (not just lights out) and during battle the witch. It also does funky effects when the ball is on the Castle Mini-PF (if not in a different MB) and when shooting for Munchkin loops (if not in a MB). If this isn't to your liking tying it to the spots does a great job of just leaving it on whenever you are in a game. I put up a pretty good (1.8M) game with it in this setup and when you have ECMB + a CB mode going and the flasher goes off - WOW! I wouldn't recommend it for anyone that may be susceptible to epileptic seizures, that's for sure.

I have the color set to turquoise (I thought Red would be the best but it's not good at all IMO) and brightness set for that and the warm white to ~50%. These were shot in a completely dark room with my DSLR.


#569 2 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

How many amps does this pull? Looking at adding this to pinball magic capcom. Buying a power tap for topper and adding this pin stadium lighting.

I've been thinking about testing my kit in the PM I just picked up, have to look into the power tap options. The other concern is with GI integration, I'm sure you know but PM (kinda like WOZ) doesn't have traditional GI - it's included in a lot of the effects so I'd have to see how that works with my kit. The worst that would happen though is I'd just have to find a way to leave them on all the time the game is on. If that's the case a kit without the GI option would make sense. Also have to think about what flasher would make the most sense, probably the one on the pop bumper.

#605 2 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

ok cool. i still think it is in your best interest to not encourage the use of alligator clips. They could fall off and short. Even at 1 amp you are probably getting some voltage drop. Tarnish and corrosion could start then they could heat up... etc...
Gator clips = test probe, not permanent connection, but maybe im just being anal.

The alligator clips are not for power, just trigger sense for the GI and Flasher integration so the power draw is probably (I didn't measure it) micro-amps through those. The power is tapped in with a system-specific (JJP, WPC, etc.) connection and is very solid (at least the ones I've seen). I do agree that alligator clips are not generally the best choice but if you want to be able to quickly move it around they do work and you can use zip ties to secure them.

#622 2 years ago
Quoted from ASOA:

Went on the site for pinstadium. I'm trying to order a set for my WOZ RUBY RED. I see a few different color options. What is the best configuration for this game? Can anyone help before I place my order?
Thank you

I have the kit with UV Glow flasher and GI integration in my RR WOZ and posted a couple videos of it. It is really awesome and lights up the game tremendously but I will add these caveats (sorry if I'm repeating myself). Since WOZ does not have any "true" flashers your options for what triggers the flasher is extremely limited, as long as you're fine with that it looks awesome. The second is that the GI integration will turn the PS GI off during many modes, this may be seen (pun intended) as defeating the primary purpose of the kit - helping you see the ball better. It looks awesome and you can defeat the GI integration or have it turn on and off with the spots if you want so I'd still recommend getting that option but want to make sure you know what the behavior will be.

#626 2 years ago

I originally had it connected to the spots but I wanted more integration so at Pinstadium Scott's suggestion I connected the GI to the GI LED in the very upper right corner of the main playfield. That is where I had it connected when I shot the two videos I posted. For league or a tournament I think I'd probably connect it to the spotlight again so it stays on. The flasher I connected to the red witch flasher at the molex connector directly under the witch mechanism.

#639 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballwil:

Looks great but it looks like it has a blue/purple glow.
Is there a warm and cold white version ?.

Yes, the flasher option can be ordered in several colors including warm or cold white, blue, red, green, etc. but these will not have the UV component.

#658 2 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Can the flasher option be triggered by connecting to a switch instead? I was thinking it might be cool to connect it to a spinner.

No, because of the switch matrix it would take some kind of a secondary dedicated switch or some circuitry to isolate it from the matrix. I had the same thought and have been kicking around some ideas in my head on what it would take to make it work.

1 week later
#711 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I don't have a smart phone so how do I do that?

Surely you have a friend or family member that has one you can use long enough to get it setup and tweaked to your liking?? If not I'd suggest an old Android tablet or iPod touch (might want to skip the Fire tablets from Amazon unless Scott has the app available in the Amazon app store too) for cheap off of Ebay or Craigslist.

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#714 2 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Yeah you just need to have someone download the app on their phone so you can configure your game. Once you have it set the way you want those settings will remain when powering on/off the game.
You could also use an Android emulator on your computer, they work very well and I use one to play Android games on my touchgame system. They have full wifi access and everything, just like a phone/tablet except you're using the computer.

I guess we're assuming mustangpaul has Wifi in his house.

#719 2 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

You just need a friend or family member that has an iPhone or Android phone to install the app. You really won't need the app once you have the game lighting setup how you like.

Actually if he doesn't have WiFi there's nothing for the PS controller to connect to in order to use the app so it would just be default settings. I don't think it can be setup with a direct connection between the controller and a mobile device but I'll let Scott clarify that, the only other option would be to setup a temporary or ad-hoc connection on a mobile device long enough to set it up.

#736 2 years ago
Quoted from zombywoof:

When merely disconnected it will likely still be polling nearby networks, broadcasting its SSID, and generally cluttering the spectrum. I want to disable completely until needed.

If you set it up on a temporary network I assume (I don't have intricate knowledge of the hardware used) it would continue to send probe requests looking for that network. Considering it is only on the 2.4GHz side which I hardly use at all anymore, it's low powered and it's inside a pinball machine that further attenuates the signal I'm not sure how much noise or clutter that could possibly cause but yes, it would be there. I believe it only goes back to broadcasting it's "set me up" (that's not the SSID it uses) network if it's factory reset but I could be wrong about that.

#757 2 years ago
Quoted from pbwizard14:

Do you have recommendations for where and which connections could be made for each machine a customer buys these for? I have not read every post, but most say find the GI connection and pick a flasher you want. I do not like guessing and messing around with my machines. I want to be told where the connections should be made and what kind of effects I should expect with those connections with a color pallet recommendation. I own a SS, TZ, TOTAN, and a CV and am interested in putting these in all, but not interested in guessing where to make connections. I read there is a connection you can make that will allow the machine to take over the lighting control and that the lights will learn the machine.

If you are not into "tinkering" with things but want better lighting for your game you may want to consider skipping the GI and Flasher integration. You'd miss out on a lot of stuff though, particularly for Neon MB on CV and the UV for Scared Stiff but it would be easier. I will say that with all of those games finding GI is super easy as there are lots of GI sockets under the PF and flashers should be very easy to find as well. Now that you've mentioned CV though I've wondered how these would look with the neon ramp being so high and close to the right side. I know Scott had a CV for a while though and probably had the prototype PS lights in it.

#818 1 year ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

Yes they are compatible.

I'm surprised by this, I would have guessed the extra PF lighting would kill the reflected animations. Would like to see that in action just out of sheer curiosity!

#838 1 year ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Thanks for those.
I'm trying to understand how they mount to the game. I understand it uses magnets, but do you need to glue a magnetic strip to the game somehow, or a piece of metal, or something for it to attach to? What does the game look like without the light bar on it?

I know this has been asked and answered before but the thread is getting a little long sooo.... they come with a thin magnetic strip for each side which has adhesive on the back. You clean the surface with alcohol, peel the backing off and stick the magnetic strip to the sides. The PS lights themselves can then easily be removed from the magnetic strip any time you need to lift the PF, etc. You can also put additional magnetic strips on other games and move the PS kit from game to game if you want.

#852 1 year ago

Thanks to Scott for providing a wiring harness I moved my PS kit from WOZ over to Pinball Magic tonight and shot a couple of very quick pictures on my phone, I'll post some better ones from a camera when I get a chance. The pictures make it look even more dramatic than it is because the "off" picture was in attract mode while the GI was dimmed but it is still basically night and day, and this was with the PS kit set to about 25% for white and kinda purple (red looks pretty good too). A couple caveats for PM, and presumably all Capcom games - GI and Flasher integration isn't exactly working but I'm still testing some things hoping for a working solution. Install was very simple and I'll post some install pics for that in the PM club thread in the next day or two. This is a really dark game and the PS kit looks really great on it, although it did expose a couple warts in the Mylar I couldn't really see before.

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#861 1 year ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

That is maybe the most dramatic Before and After that I have seen yet!!! Incredible and I'm glad that this worked out for you.

After looking at them again I thought my pics could possibly be construed as misleading because the "off" picture was taken when the GI was dimmed in attract mode so I shot a couple new ones in-game. It's still a massive difference and this is with the brightness turned down to about 20% but these are a little more accurate for game play conditions. Please ignore the cables being strung haphazardly towards the back, I'm still lifting the PF often trying different GI and flasher hook-ups so I haven't been cleanly routing the cables each time. This kit is going back in WOZ soon anyway and PM will have to wait for a new set I'm ordering for it.

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1 week later
#900 1 year ago
Quoted from stpcore:

Sorry if this has been answered but can someone share how they tapped into the GI and flasher on Attack From Mars LE? CGC used a different type of GI bulb which looks like it prevents using the alligator clips completely (see pic). Any help or push in the right direction would be appreciated as I'm trying to finish up my install. Thanks!

For WOZ Scott provided some solid wire jumpers to insert into the connectors they use, I have never seen an AFMR but perhaps the same could be used for it. Can you post a picture of what the connector that plugs onto those LEDs looks like?

1 week later
#943 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Ok first off this does not even seem possible? Scott is almost insane about replying within hours if not Minutes of request/support??? You might want to try Scott@pinstadium.com as that is the only email I have ever seen him use. Trust me he would never let you slide this long unless you got mixed in the shuffle accidentally.

I agree, sometimes I wonder if he even has a day job because he's all over the Pin Stadium gig! If you aren't getting responses it might be blocked / redirected on your side.

4 weeks later
#1143 1 year ago
Quoted from pinwiz55:

Here are some photos of my STTNG without the lights, with the lights on full bright, and what I call the "deep space look". Awesome product Scott!

Cool pics, the "Deep Space" is a little too purple looking for me but I know it probably looks different in person. What did you connect the GI and Flasher to, assuming you got those options? I just moved my new kit for PM over to STTNG since Scott was nice enough to provide the wiring harness and it looks pretty damn good so far. I tested it with brightness cranked but it blew the fuse as soon as one of the cannons ran, I did this in test because I expected it might with the ColorDMD installed. I connected the GI to one of the very back PF GI bulbs and the flasher to one behind the neutral zone. The result is really cool with both color and warm white set to ~30% which is about where I generally prefer them so far. I want to try to connect the flasher to the ones inside the Borg ship because I think the effect when Borg MB starts (the ship stays lit for some period of time) should be really cool, if it's not too much. It's good to see that the GI integration plays nice with GI OCD, if I ever decide to put a kit in STTNG permanently I may try wiring it to the shield GI to see how it does during Borg MB as well.

I'll break out the DSLR and tripod to capture some shots and video later tonight and try to get them posted if I can stop playing long enough.

#1150 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I believe since you still have it hooked to the GI, unless the GI is on, the lights will be off. They will put off the WiFi signal however I believe.

Bingo!

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#1151 1 year ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

I do have a color DMD and upgraded speakers etc so it did max out the 12 volt so even after swapping to a new rottendog board it still blew the fuse and I noticed the cannon got slow. Once I made my power supply and took off the pinstadium lights everything went back to normal.
Before I had pinstadium I never noticed the slower cannons and somewhat weak flippers but with the new rottendog board and pinstadium on the service outlet the game plays like new. I plan on fixing my old board - as other firms write weak bridge rectifiers are the culprit.
I just think STTNG is just a game with so much going on it’s always going to need an external power supply- it will for sure with a color dmd and pinstadium.

I think as long as you have a solid 12V (I rebuilt mine a while ago), no other mods besides ColorDMD and don't crank the brightness up above ~40% you'll be alright. Or at least that's worked on mine so far and last night I moved the flasher trigger to one in the Borg ship which keeps it on a LONG time during Borg MB and that didn't blow the fuse of make the cannons or flippers weak. I thought it would turn off after the initial start of MB but I was wrong and I think it stays on too long this way so I'll be moving it back to another flasher. I caught some video of it and once I edit it for time I'll upload it and post it here.

1 month later
#1441 1 year ago
Quoted from PokerJake:

How would you do it? Put the camera on auto and fire away? Same settings for each shot shows the true difference.

When I did mine for WOZ and PM I used a very nice DSLR with good, not outstanding, glass (lens) on a tripod. I used manual mode and did a lot of testing with the best settings to try to accurately capture the difference. This is a challenge as you don't want to over-expose the "after" shot too much or under-expose the "before" shot. This is easier said than done for many reasons (particularly on WOZ in attract mode!) but I was happy with what I eventually posted and still stand behind it. How many people are going to go to that much trouble though? Not many would be my answer and haters will still just say that you don't know how to take a photo properly, that you are purposely exaggerating it, or that you are a shill for the product so why bother?

#1448 1 year ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

You really did do them justice with the extra time you put in accurately depicting the results with your camera skillls. Most of us don’t have that yet or the camera rig like you. Good job!
I’m almost thinking that you guys could be the official Pin Stadium camera men. You and pokerjake could deliver the kits in person with one free B&A photo shoot included with the purchase. You could then hand them a unique number too in case they would want to have copies for themselves to share with friends and family. Surely you guys have that much time in your day to do this!

"Would you like to buy a picture of you enjoying the line ride?"

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#1455 1 year ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

The vast majority of the pix posted are awful - fact. They clearly show the iris closed as their digital cameras try to compensate for the bright lights. They are not representative of the real world light contrast of the scene and don't capture the throw of the lamps because it's so locked down. It's very hard (nearly impossible) to do with PnS systems because of the dynamic range. Yet people keep using them in comparisons
And as for exaggerating... you mean like the game with ALL THE GI OFF except the inlanes?? *rolleyes* Or if looking at glare... with all the lights off except for the sources causing the glare (backbox and LED strip)... of course the backlit game is going to look better no matter what you do when you stack the deck like that.

I won't dispute that there are some pictures that make the difference look nearly unbelievable. However I would suggest that this is generally because people are just taking quick photos with their phones in auto mode because: 1) that's how they always takes pictures, 2) they don't care or know how to take better comparison pictures, 3) don't have better equipment or want to take the time, 4) they know that even taking a lot of time and effort to take better comparison pictures won't do it justice and probably still won't satisfy those that are going to through shade (pun intended) on the product, the post, or the poster. Our eyes capture and react to light very differently than even the best camera and we all know how difficult it is to photograph games powered up, led jobs, etc.

I'll also remind everyone that Robin has asked that fans of the product not start anymore threads about it and that those that don't appreciate the product, or people posting about it stay out of the existing product threads.

2 weeks later
#1542 1 year ago

Black is the new Black, let's see some pics Scott!

#1557 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Thanks for the quick response Scott!
I can see where this color strategy works for 99.9% of the games out there and was a good choice. It really looks stunning on SW... I'll have to do more research on how it might work on AVLE since that game does not have white GI, its all RGB and triggers around the PF in unison.
Can you connect the GI trigger input to a flasher (can the input tolerate the higher voltage)? There might be a flasher spotlight on AVLE that might work as a good trigger to turn off the stadium lights.

I'm not familiar with AVLE but WOZ (and all JJP games??) GI is completely RGB (other than some spotlights) and the GI integration works very well in that game. As Scott said it does not match colors but I don't really think you'd want it to.

#1572 1 year ago
Quoted from ZMeny:

Scott has anyone figured out how to tap flashers on Houdini?

No, so bring yours down to the Louisville show next weekend and we'll all figure it out together! (I don't really know if anyone has figured it out of not, I just want another Houdini to be at the show! )

#1602 1 year ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

and also makes each kit compatible with any pinball machines and does not draw any power off of your boards either.
Scott

...as long as it has a service outlet. Keep in mind that some exported / re-imported WPC games didn't have these installed from the factory.

#1617 1 year ago

Shouldn't that be ??

#1637 1 year ago
Quoted from MadPole:

Do you have any available at the show?
I have them on my GoTG and GB over by the Pincades Houdini.
I'm thinking my F-14 Tomcat could use some improved lighting.

Beautiful games, we put a bunch of plays on them yesterday and intend to do it again today and tomorrow - thanks for bringing them!

#1683 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballerchef:

A belt wraps all the way around....sooo this must piggy back off the PinStadiums and go in front of the apron for lighting there and across the back of the PF for lights there too. Like a belt. We've never seen the PS's do that yet.

Not a bad guess based off the name!

1 month later
#1906 1 year ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

Great new feature added for Pin Stadiums!!
The Magna-Mount system is more low profile to provide even more clearance for your machine!! I found that JJP cabinets, older games, and some mirror blades, mirror blades+art, or the Illuminated PinGraffix ones made for a snug fit. Well, sure enough I redesigned these and the HD (High Density) Magna-Mounts are super lower profile, literally 1/2 the thickness and still have the high strength needed to keep you in action! The manufacturing cost for these is much higher but the quality and results are amazing. Even better is they are included free as a standard with every Pin Stadium ordered going forward!

Pictures or it didn't happen, or something like that.

3 weeks later
#2071 1 year ago
Quoted from shlockdoc:

Hi Scott,
What is a good hook up for the GI and flashers on a capcom Pinball Magic?
Thanks
Mark

The short answer is there isn't one. Because of the way the GI and Flashers are matrixed in Capcom games they will keep the PS kit on all the time, this is fine for the main but not for the flasher. I have mine setup to be on with the game and no flasher. LEDOCD would probably resolve this but I can't say for certain that it does.

#2073 1 year ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

Is there a motor we could trigger off or magnet?

Might work with the magic wand magnet coil, never really thought about that. Might be cool for the flasher, I'll try it tonight or tomorrow night and let you know. Remind me what the max voltage is you can put on the trigger circuit? I tried a bunch of (relatively) simple ways to get the GI integration working using diodes, caps, RC circuits, etc. but the lamps are always being pulsed, even when off so nothing I tried worked. It's okay though because the game is SO dark normally that I still consider the PS kits a must have for it unless you have LEDOCD and a bright GI bulbs installed.

#2127 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

First of all let me think Scott for a wonderful product. I can't thank him enough for his out standing cuatomer service as well. I got the pinstadium lights about 2 weeks ago. At that time, I was having issues with my WOZ lighting. Nothing to do with the Pinstadium lighting. Scott day and night was trying to help me solve this issue. I mean day and night. Sometimes at 12 midnight on a weekend. WHAT!!!! This kind of kindness and service does not exist, right? Wrong!! With Scott it does. Well I finally got the WOZ fixed yesterday with new lamp board wire connectors. Once I hooked up the Pinstadium, he was on the phone again helping me go thru the app. Outstanding. Scott does not sell a product, take your $ and say see ya. He will back his product up 100% everyday. All my pins will have Pinstadium. Guaranteed. I installed the lights and I showed my wife. She was like, what the F did u do. She told me to move to the side and let her play. Pinstadium only on 50%. Can u tell the diff. First pic off second on.

WOZ needs Pin Stadiums in a big way, maybe more so than any other game except Pinball Magic.

#2144 1 year ago
Quoted from monte_:

I just bought a ruby red 2.0 woz new 1 month ago. It is confusing what options to get on pinstadium lights. Do i get GI plug in option and flasher option? Someone who has installed lights on woz please let me know. Are they hard to install?

I've had them on my RR for some time and I do recommend the GI and UV Glow flashers. Your install will be a little different than mine because yours should have the new (2.0) light system while I have the older style, regardless the install is simple and Scott has already posted on how / where to connect to the new system. The entire process will probably take less than 30 minutes and you'll be glad you did it. If you do run into any problems you can be sure Scott will be there quickly to help you out.

#2201 1 year ago

I feel like I'm looking at one of those "Highlights" puzzles as a kid, find all the differences between the two pictures.

#2225 1 year ago

Damn, I was away for work and other activities all day and missed this! I received what I thought was a spam / virus PM from someone about a crossword puzzle and those are forwarded to my e-mail so I thought "WTF?". Work gets in the way sometimes, glad someone figured it out for me!

#2248 1 year ago

Larry, did you hook up the GI trigger to the LED in the top right corner of the PF? I noticed that it works a little differently in that game than mine and I'm assuming that it's because of the 2.0 light system. On mine the PS kit goes off during all the CB multiballs, during Fireball Frenzy, etc. but I noticed they don't on yours which is actually pretty nice as it makes those modes even harder. I also noticed the GI appears to be a pretty hard on or off whereas on mine it kinda fades off and on. Of course I can disable the GI integration or move it to a different spot if I want to but I typically leave it on that top right LED and do love what it brings to the game.

1 month later
#2505 1 year ago
Quoted from Blindseer:

The GI module is showing up as a required $60 option. It wont let me select just the basic $149 package as the other 2 options throw an error if i dont select them.

What game are you ordering for?

1 week later
#2545 1 year ago
Quoted from oyvindmo:

What are the power options these days for games which don't have any kind of service outlet? (European games often don't; not even a cover/hole where one can be added.)

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1 month later
#2942 1 year ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

It is a pinball forum talking about pinball and in this case a mod for a game.
Sharing an opinion on a product is not trolling.

The moderators set a compromise of sorts regarding Pinstadiums because they are so polarizing for some reason (few seem to be in the middle); Scott no longer posts about them in game threads and haters (this means you) are to stay out of the P.S. thread which is here for announcements and fans of the product, etc.

#2944 1 year ago
Quoted from Marvin:

If you turn them down they weren't really needed in the first place were they?

Come on, this is just ridiculous. I guess every room in my house where I have a dimmer switch on the lights doesn't need lights either?? Customization of the lighting to a specific game and environment is definitely one of the best things about the Pinstadium product.

1 month later
#3305 11 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

Oh hell yes. I say you rename this to Orion belt! The hype would deliver! Can't wait

I think he should call it Andromeda's Bra. (TM bobukcat 2018).

4 months later
#3969 7 months ago

Congratulations on the baby boy Scott, I had no idea he was so close to arriving! I figure by the time he's five he should be able to assemble those Pin Stadium kits pretty well.

#3979 7 months ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

Here is a hint....[quoted image]

Can I buy a vowel?

1 month later
#4334 5 months ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

Yes WH20 was first on my list, along with CFTBL, WOZ, and many many more that are known for being tight. Even TNA with the lower side walls since that is a big seller and old EM's. Because of how they are designed they will definitely work on any machine for sure. That is what took so long with the design was creating flexibility for those variable environments. I'm sure you will be very pleased.

I think STTNG will be another challenging one, the right side launch wire-form is tight to the side and with the invisishields installed they but right up against it.

1 month later
#4806 3 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

Just installed a set on my STTNG. Anyone have suggestions on where to place the flashers? I've left them off for now.

I hooked my UV-Glow flasher to the Red dome on the top right corner of the backboard and I'm pretty happy with that. At first I connected them to one of the Borg flashers as I have blue windows in my Borg Ship and thought it would be perfect but those stay on too long at the start of MB and I thought it ruined the effect. The next time I have to do any kind of work under the PF though I think I'm going to try to connect them to the shield flashers, I started to do this once but there is no where to connect the alligator clips to the board or socket easily so I'll have to solder a lead the the board or something like that.

#4808 3 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I hooked my UV-Glow flasher to the Red dome on the top right corner of the backboard and I'm pretty happy with that. At first I connected them to one of the Borg flashers as I have blue windows in my Borg Ship and thought it would be perfect but those stay on too long at the start of MB and I thought it ruined the effect. The next time I have to do any kind of work under the PF though I think I'm going to try to connect them to the shield flashers, I started to do this once but there is no where to connect the alligator clips to the board or socket easily so I'll have to solder a lead the the board or something like that.

After looking at the shield inserts flasher action more I don't think I will move it down there, they just don't go off very often at all except during Borg MB. Here is a short video of the game over light show with the UV flasher connected to the back right though (should have turned off WOZ and MM to help the phone camera out a bit, lots of noise in this video):

1 month later
#5133 69 days ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

They are on just the one of the left is loose in the pic and shifted to the side.

That never happens, you must have purposely made them pop loose and moved it to the side.

#5149 69 days ago
Quoted from jake35:

His thread bumping has gotten out of hand. Something does need to be done to control this nonsense.

He only bumps his own thread, drain that if you don't want to see it.

#5169 68 days ago
Quoted from DerGoetz:

He posts multiple times per day to boost his sales, you post several times per hour to boost your ego. All fair and nothing to see here.

Okay I actually LOL'd at that!

-3
#5187 68 days ago
Quoted from wlf_:

It is weird how the thread (that got 200+ upvotes) discussing Pin Stadium's questionable market abuse got closed, but the one where the Pin Stadium guy advertises his products and bumps his thread on average 3 times a day stays open. . . #moneytalks

The OP of the other thread asked them to close it, thankfully.

#5191 68 days ago
Quoted from jake35:

Thankfully? I'd rather see that thread then this spamfest continue.

Use the drain feature Luke. (To be read in Alec Guinness's voice)

Seriously why bitch about something you can so easily avoid???

#5250 68 days ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Can you take the same photo with 2 spotlights added to slings?
If just a little more light is your goal then you can do it for ~5% of the cost, with less effort, and better overall effect (bonus of no zebra stripes, no worry of parts falling into game while playing, and the ability to not detract from a future game sale by turning off potential buyers)

Except for people like me who hate the look of spotlights especially if you have to tape the LEDs in to keep them from popping out, unless of course you want to risk the part (LED) falling into the game. They can also be easily removed and moved to another game in minutes. I've had a set on WOZ for a couple years and a set on PM for about a year (HUGE difference in both of those games), put a set on my STTNG for two shows now and have never, ever had them fall off even when transporting the games. Shit happens, things in pinball machines break and you don't like the product - we get it.

Edit: to be clear I also have games like MM, Xenon, SM and CV I keep with just incandescent bulbs. I don't believe every game needs them and yes, they are expensive.

#5254 68 days ago
Quoted from Wickerman2:

Is playfield lighting meant to illuminate every square inch in blinding LED brightness or do pinball designers choose what to highlight? Insert lights and features are meant to stand out when lit no? Glws

Interesting question / discussion point. I think designers have to work under the constraints of where GI can / traditionally was feasible. They started using some spotlights to highlight certain features in the 90s (good trivia question, what game had the first spotlights from the factory? I don't know the answer.) but would they have done things differently if things like lighted star posts or faceted LEDs or even rail lighting similar to Pin Stadium were available to them? Probably at least in some instances I think but of course cost would always be a major limiting factor as well. WOZ has quite a few spots but is still very, very dark. It also doesn't really help that most of us converted all our incandescent games from 44s to 47s to reduce heat and power draw on the GI circuits, though moving to brighter LEDs can reverse that in many games.

#5272 67 days ago
Quoted from BMore-Pinball:

Most consumer products are marked up a huge percentage. There's more than just product material costs involved when running a business and being profitable. If you think they're making too much money, why dont you develop a product and start your own business to sell them at a lower price point

He missed the joke.

1 month later
#5498 10 days ago

I've been thinking about doing this for awhile but decided to go ahead and try it. As you know (if you care) flasher integration into Capcom games doesn't really work per normal methods because of the lamp and flasher matrixes plus the limitation on input voltage to the PS sense circuit. This is far from rocket science and others have probably thought of it as well but by tieing into the drive circuit on the board in the backbox I've verified that you should be able to use just about any coil or motor to activate the flashers. I'm not going to post details here because I don't want to risk being responsible for someone blowing up a pretty damned scarce Capcom board but if you know what you are doing and want details feel free to PM me - my method does not require any alteration to the board or soldering. The video below is pretty crappy but does show it working on PM tied to the pop bumper, I like this because these are really fast, short pulses that keeps the UV flasher from washing things out too much. I will probably try it on the Wand magnet coil drive when I get around to it but I suspect that will be too much, too often on this game. This same method should theoretically work on other games with similar challenges like JJPs, Houdini and Oktoberfest but I've not investigated that enough to be sure.

#5507 5 days ago
Quoted from dgposter:

Here's the difference between Fusions and Omegas on IMDN...[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice comparison, really shows how the Omegas removes the striping effect, thanks!

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