***New ORION’s BELT & Pin Stadium Official Announcement!!!

(Topic ID: 186589)

***New ORION’s BELT & Pin Stadium Official Announcement!!!


By pinstadium

1 year ago



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  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by pinstadium
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“What do you think of the new Invisi-Shields?”

  • Great idea (want them) 22 votes
    25%
  • Love them(own them) 44 votes
    49%
  • Not sure 23 votes
    26%

(89 votes)

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There are 3573 posts in this topic. You are on page 69 of 72.
#3401 30 days ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

That’s true he may need to mount it a little lower to clear that or raise it. I can’t quite picture the mech. Another alternative is to simply trim the built in Invisi-Shield on Orion’s Belt in that area and it should definitely fit.

It will need to be trimmed for sure. If you Mount the stadiums at the highest point its flush with the coin toss mech. It would be hard to slide something underneath that.

#3402 29 days ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

I am suggesting to anyone getting ready to install them, to go into the Settings/Diagnostics/Flashers and cycle through those as it will reveal tons of ideas as to where you would want to trigger on WCS, Dr. Dude and Indy 500 etc. That would be awesome to see them on any of these machines!

Yeah the problem with WCS and Indy is that when you score a goal, or start the multiball via the turbo, there's a bit of a epilepsy moment where every flasher goes crazy, thus if I were to use the belt on these games, I'd trigger each of my predetmined color theme flashes at the same time. I'll probably have to play some games with the glass off to try and recreate different modes and see if one flasher in particular triggers during each mode.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Be careful with the coin toss mech on WCS. I doubt the Orion’s Belt will fit over there. I have not tried on mine, but stadiums are extremely tight and are rested up against the coin toss mech by themselves.

Per usual, chuckwurt is the voice of reason in a thread I read ^_^ I'll definitely pick up just the dude's stadium and belt first and will re-evaluate, thanks for the heads up!

#3403 29 days ago
Quoted from mixmastapj:

Yeah the problem with WCS and Indy is that when you score a goal, or start the multiball via the turbo, there's a bit of a epilepsy moment where every flasher goes crazy, thus if I were to use the belt on these games, I'd trigger each of my predetmined color theme flashes at the same time. I'll probably have to play some games with the glass off to try and recreate different modes and see if one flasher in particular triggers during each mode.

One of the things I took into consideration (because what you were concerned about was happening to me) when designing Orion’s Belt so that it does not flash them all at once. That would cause undesired and blended colors which gets messy.

As a result I had to go back to the drawing board and Orion’s Belt is coded with software that has logic to allow the flashers to trigger uniquely and sequential. This eliminates the “blurring” of flasher triggers which is what makes the impact of Orion’s Belt very clean and pronounced. One of the many things I took into consideration as I dissected this solution during the Orion’s Belt creation/development process.

I like how you think and this was a great post that will help others who may have had similar concerns. No worries I’ve got you covered

#3404 29 days ago

Orion's Belt installs are starting and there are a few customers that said they want to get up some videos of them in action. Exciting, stay tuned folks!!!

f41d17ec582901b65bebac3551b25dd9913bf09a (resized).png
#3405 29 days ago

Updating the recommended flasher trigger locations for IMDN

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#3406 29 days ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

Updating the recommended flasher trigger locations for IMDN
[quoted image]

Will we be able to go to PinStadium's website at some point and search for a game. Then find diagrams for the best location for PinStadium and or Orion's Belt? I like the one above with IMDN.

#3407 29 days ago
Quoted from Spiderpin:

Will we be able to go to PinStadium's website at some point and search for a game. Then find diagrams for the best location for PinStadium and or Orion's Belt? I like the one above with IMDN.

Yes, I just completed programming the functionality and now it will be just a matter of the us all updating it. I will of course populate them with what I know too. I will post up the links and email them to customers shortly, explaining how to do this.

#3408 29 days ago

Here are some flasher location options for those installing the Orion’s Belt on Metallica. Tons of options!! Can’t wait to see this one.

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#3409 28 days ago

I am updating this Flasher connection example on the website to represent the Orion’s Belt factory color settings on this diagram also. This will make your install even easier and give you a basis as to what colors will trigger from which connection.

orions_connection_numbering_1500 (resized).png

#3410 28 days ago

Received my Orion’s Belt this week. Trying to decide which game to try it on; Metallica, Batman66, Maiden or Deadpool..

#3411 28 days ago
Quoted from RebelGuitars:

Received my Orion’s Belt this week. Trying to decide which game to try it on; Metallica, Batman66, Maiden or Deadpool..

MET for sure. One to drops, one to sparky, one to coffin, one to snake. White, blue, red, and green respectively. That would be nuts.

#3412 28 days ago
Quoted from RebelGuitars:

Received my Orion’s Belt this week. Trying to decide which game to try it on; Metallica, Batman66, Maiden or Deadpool..

I have done them on IMDN and Deadpool and they look great. However I would love to see them on a MET. There is another customer planning on installing them on MET too.

#3413 28 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

MET for sure. One to drops, one to sparky, one to coffin, one to snake. White, blue, red, and green respectively. That would be nuts.

I agree that would be sick!!

#3414 28 days ago

Who is familiar with the optos on Spike 2 systems?
I'd like to use the ramp exit optos and the Rocket Kickback opto on GOTG to trigger Orion Flashers.
- Can these be used?
- I'm guessing you would use the receiver opto
- Which board is the receiver? The 2 wire or 3 wire board?

#3415 28 days ago

Opinion of best flasher to hook up to pinstadiums’ uv flasher on maiden pro?

#3416 28 days ago
Quoted from Dantesmark:

Opinion of best flasher to hook up to pinstadiums’ uv flasher on maiden pro?

Orb flasher would be cool.

#3417 28 days ago

any recommendations on flasher locations for Stern Star Trek?
Already have the UV Stadium flashers on the recommended Vengeance flasher.

Also I noticed that there is a row of pins sticking out of the black rubber/plastic wrap on the controller boards.. should those be covered?

#3418 28 days ago
Quoted from elf70:

any recommendations on flasher locations for Stern Star Trek?
Already have the UV Stadium flashers on the recommended Vengeance flasher.
Also I noticed that there is a row of pins sticking out of the black rubber/plastic wrap on the controller boards.. should those be covered?

The pins should be out as that is how I program them with the latest code after production just before they leave. So it’s normal and no worries.

#3419 28 days ago
Quoted from Dantesmark:

Opinion of best flasher to hook up to pinstadiums’ uv flasher on maiden pro?

I really like the Pharoah’s target flasher for some really cool results.

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#3420 28 days ago
Quoted from MadPole:

Who is familiar with the optos on Spike 2 systems?
I'd like to use the ramp exit optos and the Rocket Kickback opto on GOTG to trigger Orion Flashers.
- Can these be used?
- I'm guessing you would use the receiver opto
- Which board is the receiver? The 2 wire or 3 wire board?

Interesting thought in that. I have not done that personally but it could be possible but since they are always on, if you can dive into the board and figure out which trace is going to the wire assuming they are poling the ground with it could work. Not sure. If anyone has any suggestions or input that would be welcomed.

#3422 28 days ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

I really like the Pharoah’s target flasher for some really cool results.
[quoted image]

Couldnt tell from the pic... can u zoom out and show where that flasher hookup is?

#3423 28 days ago
Quoted from MadPole:

Who is familiar with the optos on Spike 2 systems?
I'd like to use the ramp exit optos and the Rocket Kickback opto on GOTG to trigger Orion Flashers.
- Can these be used?
- I'm guessing you would use the receiver opto
- Which board is the receiver? The 2 wire or 3 wire board?

Here is the IMDN manual and the optos you could try to trigger from. This may help to get the ball rolling.

2867E9FB-72E7-4EFD-B23F-34A131AD5CAB (resized).jpeg
#3424 28 days ago
Quoted from Dantesmark:

Couldnt tell from the pic... can u zoom out and show where that flasher hookup is?

Sure thing. It’s behind the backboard on the right side.

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#3425 28 days ago

It’s behind the backboard here.

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#3427 28 days ago
Quoted from MadPole:

Who is familiar with the optos on Spike 2 systems?
I'd like to use the ramp exit optos and the Rocket Kickback opto on GOTG to trigger Orion Flashers.
- Can these be used?
- I'm guessing you would use the receiver opto
- Which board is the receiver? The 2 wire or 3 wire board?

Okay I am looking at what you are referring to.

04410DD8-767D-4AB6-9B61-799C28F1A3C3 (resized).jpeg
#3428 28 days ago

My concern is it’s on the switch matrix. But there is always some creative workaround possible. I know for the kickback you could use a resistor on the coil and drop it down to 4v-24v that would work on the Rocket

#3429 28 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

MET for sure. One to drops, one to sparky, one to coffin, one to snake. White, blue, red, and green respectively. That would be nuts.

Thanks, gonna give it a try.

#3430 28 days ago
Quoted from RebelGuitars:

Thanks, gonna give it a try.

Great!! Looking forward to it!

#3431 27 days ago
Quoted from MadPole:

Who is familiar with the optos on Spike 2 systems?
I'd like to use the ramp exit optos and the Rocket Kickback opto on GOTG to trigger Orion Flashers.
- Can these be used?
- I'm guessing you would use the receiver opto
- Which board is the receiver? The 2 wire or 3 wire board?

It looks like the receiver is the 3 wire board. Take a look here at Pinball life. I see they have the emitter (2 wire has the 5v and ground): https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-long-range-opto-emitter-assembly.html

and the receiver (3 wire 5v, switch, ground): https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-long-range-opto-receiver-assembly.html

84CA6816-9282-4A24-BA3E-A665D20D091C (resized).jpeg
#3432 27 days ago

Alright, feedback. I love your work, but there are a couple things majorly bugging me. There really needs to be a revision to this.

First, short but Sweet, the Good. Great rather. Spectacular even. Install went smoothly. The effects are really, really nice, particularly when you tap into the right circuits/flashers to compliment the game. Its really fantastic, and I can't wait to adjust it a bit more (Circuits/color choices) to find just the perfect combination.

For reference, right now my first setup on Star Trek Premium is: The spinner flasher is set blue, the pops flasher white, and the two back ramp strobes are Red and Yellow to match.

There are some issues however, so hang tight, here we go.
I am overly frustrated with the after-install for a couple of reasons. Firstly, as I am playing, I am realizing that I may want to switch one of the circuits. That means taking off the Stadium and Flasher strips -easy enough, they are on magnets. But the cable management is frustrating. Its really not easy to get them lined up just the right length, and the cable clips just don't seem to work for me. Even if they manage to stick right on the back (they keep falling off, despite my best efforts to clean the spot and attach them properly), I can't lift the playfield without taking them out or else they will simply pull the clips right off or threaten to bend the cables at the light connectors.. lifting the playfield means the backboard moves forwards, and then tilts down, pulling on the light strips if the cables are in the clips... Basically I can't find any "good" way to do this using the clips. lowering the playfield is also a challenge because I have to lower it before I can reattach the light strips to the magnets. The cable fit in back is really, really tight on this machine - so once the playfield is lowered, the cables are pretty much wedged in the back - and there is no give, no slack, to be able to adjust a little more or a little less cable once the playfield is down. It was difficult but manageable with the stadium lights, and next to impossible with a second set of ribbon cables that want to do their own thing.

The next thing that bugs me, is the "not-so-secret buttons" that are required for setup and changing colors- they are on the controller board - which is under the playfield, in back(!). So I can't adjust any colors without - you guessed it, doing all the above anyway. This is in no way easy to manage.

This just drives me batty. Its way too difficult to change the assigned colors. Its unreasonably difficult to even lift and lower the playfield with the extra mucking about with the cables and light strips.

However I can think of two simple changes that would fix all of this, yet its not so simple to do after the build. So, here is a good 85% of the solution (really minus only a couple small details) for your next round.

1- put in quick-disconnect plugs in the ribbon cable just shortly before the light strips. This way a user can simply unplug them right there above the playfield before removing the light strips. Now the ribbon cable could be properly mounted somehow in a semi-permanent way that holds their position in back of the backboard and up and over onto the playfield.

2- the buttons... makes no sense to have to open everything up to get to under the back of the playfield for this. Again a plug to the board, another cable of sorts from that to be run along the inside side of the cabinet up to the front in the coin door area where the "remote" buttons are located. Want to change colors? no problem - open the coin door only, and push the button. no need to take off glass, no need to take off lights, no need to lift the playfield, then deal with the buttons while its all up and open, and then have to try to put it all back nice.

I do have a couple more comments/questions/thoughts for improvement, but I'll save that for the moment. I just needed to get this out there (and off my chest), as I'm overly frustrated still from how difficult this is to adjust after install, not to mention how much more difficult the install has made the game to simply open up to maintain. Maybe tomorrow.

Overall - Visually, this addition is a spectacular improvement. It really is. Its really just the implementation that needs some attention. Happy to be a tester for you too if you'd like. You may find some of my ideas of interest as well

#3433 27 days ago

I think we have All asked for removable plugs at one point or another. Can't say how many times I have had these ripped from the machine or bent in half trying to raise the playfield. I almost considered offering a PS upgrade mod myself as its really not all that hard to add. Similar to the link below you could solve this pain for roughly .20 cents I may be doing all mine soon personally.

amazon.com link »

#3434 27 days ago
Quoted from elf70:

and the cable clips just don't seem to work for me.

Toss em. I’ve never used them.

Quoted from elf70:

the cables are pretty much wedged in the back - and there is no give,

Try positioning the ribbon cables along the side of the backboard. On modern sterns there’s usually plenty of room.

#3435 27 days ago
Quoted from elf70:

Alright, feedback. I love your work, but there are a couple things majorly bugging me. There really needs to be a revision to this.
First, short but Sweet, the Good. Great rather. Spectacular even. Install went smoothly. The effects are really, really nice, particularly when you tap into the right circuits/flashers to compliment the game. Its really fantastic, and I can't wait to adjust it a bit more (Circuits/color choices) to find just the perfect combination.
For reference, right now my first setup on Star Trek Premium is: The spinner flasher is set blue, the pops flasher white, and the two back ramp strobes are Red and Yellow to match.

Great to hear from you and thanks for the post and feedback as always. I am glad that you love the results and performance of them. Also it is very helpful that you posted up what colors you are using and shortly I will get you all a link to load these up in the Pin Stadium Portal for install tips/pics too.

Quoted from elf70:

Firstly, as I am playing, I am realizing that I may want to switch one of the circuits. That means taking off the Stadium and Flasher strips -easy enough, they are on magnets. But the cable management is frustrating. Its really not easy to get them lined up just the right length, and the cable clips just don't seem to work for me. Even if they manage to stick right on the back (they keep falling off, despite my best efforts to clean the spot and attach them properly), I can't lift the playfield without taking them out or else they will simply pull the clips right off or threaten to bend the cables at the light connectors.

Are you using separate cable clamps for the Orion's Belt ribbon cable routing or are you coupling them with the existing Pin Stadium clamps?(suggested and what I recommend otherwise the diameter of clamps will may not grab ribbon cables as firmly as they need to be). I send the extra in the packet just in case someone did not have Pin Stadiums on that machine already. The cable clamps get a one time chance to bond for good long lasting mount but if they are not mounted in a completely level and clean surface to the backboard they won't adhere and will definitely not re-adhere. If you need more let me know and I will ship them out to you. I also can send pics of where I found to be the best location for Star Trek where they stay nice and tight, let me know and I can post that up.

Quoted from elf70:

lifting the playfield means the backboard moves forwards, and then tilts down, pulling on the light strips if the cables are in the clips... Basically I can't find any "good" way to do this using the clips. lowering the playfield is also a challenge because I have to lower it before I can reattach the light strips to the magnets. The cable fit in back is really, really tight on this machine - so once the playfield is lowered, the cables are pretty much wedged in the back - and there is no give, no slack, to be able to adjust a little more or a little less cable once the playfield is down.

It sounds like the limitation you are experiencing is related to the length of the splitter or power strip you are using from the service port which is situated in the front right of the machine by the coin door. If I am understanding the issue correctly, using longer extension cable from the service port this should resolve this issue by allowing the Orion's Belt flasher module to rest in a similar location of the Pin Stadiums GI module.

Quoted from elf70:

a plug to the board, another cable of sorts from that to be run along the inside side of the cabinet up to the front in the coin door area where the "remote" buttons are located. Want to change colors? no problem - open the coin door only, and push the button. no need to take off glass, no need to take off lights, no need to lift the playfield, then deal with the buttons while its all up and open, and then have to try to put it all back nice.

That was something I had considered myself also and by the time I had the lights programmed to where I liked I realized that I may not ever need to access that again as it was more of a "set and go" thing for me versus having more cables laying in the cabinet. However it does make sense to have that as a potential feature down the road for convenience during set up. Thanks for the input.

Feel free to email me any pics and comments at scott@pinstadium.com as always and I can even respond quicker. I have the ST pics ribbon cable mounting location pics that work great I can send also.

Quoted from elf70:

Overall - Visually, this addition is a spectacular improvement. It really is.

The is so excellent to hear and I glad that you are loving the visual impact effect they have on your machine. That's what it is all about. I really appreciate your post and feedback and great support of the Pin Stadium line of products too!!!

#3436 27 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Toss em. I’ve never used them.

Try positioning the ribbon cables along the side of the backboard. On modern sterns there’s usually plenty of room.

You do a lot of switching around with the lights on your games so it makes sense that you may not use them as it's one less thing to disconnect. They come in extremely handy with cable memory length on games that have lights installed as a permanent relationship with the game. My concern about having the ribbon cables loose and routed on the side of the backboard is the potential for them getting pinched or damaged. How do I know? It has happened to me in the early stages of creating these and it was necessary for me to find a solution to never have this to happen again. Yikes!

However I know you have great attention to detail and move them around like it's nothing, so you are likely going to be fine.

#3437 27 days ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I think we have All asked for removable plugs at one point or another. Can't say how many times I have had these ripped from the machine or bent in half trying to raise the playfield. I almost considered offering a PS upgrade mod myself as its really not all that hard to add. Similar to the link below you could solve this pain for roughly .20 cents I may be doing all mine soon personally.
amazon.com link »

Thank you for feedback on that and I will look into those. I had opted to leave this out of the design of the Pin Stadiums due to the bulkiness of having another adapter in the area and also creating another variable with more wire point contact/connections (about 30 total). When I had them added I found that in many cases they would get pinched/crushed between the backboard and cabinet (where the meet) depending on the positioning of the location of that on the cable length between the rear of the lightbar and the contact point to the ribbon cable mounts varied greatly on many machine across the board. This distance on machines from Stern(new and old) to Data East to pre WPC, and EMs is extremely varied and I found it rather troublesome or something that if someone didn't pay attention would cause permanent damage to the lights.

I hope this explains the reasons they were not included, but as always if these issues I mentioned could be covered and addressed I would be interested to see what you find.

#3438 27 days ago

I have just received this video from a customer. This section is of the end ball light show which was really cool to see on MET. He is extremely happy with the Orion’s Belt on MET. Check this out:

https://instagram.com/p/BqVTR3RlpSB/

Working to get some high quality footage from the installs too!

#3439 27 days ago

I was able to capture some screenshots of it as it changes colors to show the power of Orion’s Belt from the last ball finale light show. This demonstrates the green and blue!

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#3440 27 days ago

Very pleased with this product. Scott was very patient and helpful when I ran into issues. Thank you for a pleasant experience. Really well built and provides excellent light options. Thanks Scott!

BDB12F27-F80C-49BA-A1FF-3796F6C0B98C (resized).jpeg
#3441 27 days ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

Great to hear from you and thanks for the post and feedback as always. I am glad that you love the results and performance of them. Also it is very helpful that you posted up what colors you are using and shortly I will get you all a link to load these up in the Pin Stadium Portal for install tips/pics too.

Are you using separate cable clamps for the Orion's Belt ribbon cable routing or are you coupling them with the existing Pin Stadium clamps?(suggested and what I recommend otherwise the diameter of clamps will may not grab ribbon cables as firmly as they need to be). I send the extra in the packet just in case someone did not have Pin Stadiums on that machine already. The cable clamps get a one time chance to bond for good long lasting mount but if they are not mounted in a completely level and clean surface to the backboard they won't adhere and will definitely not re-adhere. If you need more let me know and I will ship them out to you. I also can send pics of where I found to be the best location for Star Trek where they stay nice and tight, let me know and I can post that up.

It sounds like the limitation you are experiencing is related to the length of the splitter or power strip you are using from the service port which is situated in the front right of the machine by the coin door. If I am understanding the issue correctly, using longer extension cable from the service port this should resolve this issue by allowing the Orion's Belt flasher module to rest in a similar location of the Pin Stadiums GI module.

That was something I had considered myself also and by the time I had the lights programmed to where I liked I realized that I may not ever need to access that again as it was more of a "set and go" thing for me versus having more cables laying in the cabinet. However it does make sense to have that as a potential feature down the road for convenience during set up. Thanks for the input.
Feel free to email me any pics and comments at scott@pinstadium.com as always and I can even respond quicker. I have the ST pics ribbon cable mounting location pics that work great I can send also.

The is so excellent to hear and I glad that you are loving the visual impact effect they have on your machine. That's what it is all about. I really appreciate your post and feedback and great support of the Pin Stadium line of products too!!!

Hey Scott, sorry its kindof late now, maybe we can connect tomorrow over this, i dont want to be bothering you this late. Heres some clarification though for whenever you happen to check next.

Clamps: I have not used them before now. I tried using the ones that came with the Orions Belt for both of them together. one on each side. They came off the first time because the fit in back is really tight on this machine, and they rub against something else (other cables?) in back when the playfield is raised or lowered. they simply rubbed right off, and I found them loose around the cables at the bottom of the cabinet. I managed to stick them back on the first time, but then as I was saying, there is another issue about them holding the cables in place. I understand you to say that it is a good thing as it holds them approximately the right distance from the backboard while one opens it up, raising the playfield, and lowering it back and mounting the strips again on the magnets. This would be a good idea if the light strips actually were kept with the playfield when raised. The problem is they can not sit on top of the playfield while the playfield is lifted. What is left to do with the lightstrips while one raises the playfield (for example, to get at the buttons to set or adjust colors)? If I lay the lightstrips to the sides of the machine, or let them hang down or whatever, while they are clipped to the backboard, now I have the problem that moving/raising/lowering the playfield pulls on the ribbon cables. If they are laying to the side, they won't be after long. If they are dangling down the sides, they get pulled up until the end of the cable where the light strips begin, and it will pull tighter until presumably the ribbon cables will break off the lightstrips. This is a problem that effectively makes leaving the cables in any sort of cable management clips or whatever, an impossible scenario- as long as the lightstrips are attached to the cable. This is why it would seem imperative to be able to disconnect the light strips from the cable. There really is no other way around it. Believe me I tried -but I almost broke the light strips on both the pinstadium and the belt trying to use clips while raising and lowering the playfield. No this is not an issue of distance from the power - it is simply what happens if the ribbon cable is held to a fixed point on the backboard while one attempts to raise or lower the playfield.

As for a set-and-forget with the buttons.. I just don't see this happening. Even if I do have all the triggers placed where they will forever remain, it will no doubt take several or more adjustments to get the colors right. Everyone will also have their own thoughts/ideas/desires for color - that is what the buttons are for, right? But its buried in the back, underneath everything, and every time I have to open it up and raise the playfield now, aside from the extra effort it now takes with multiple strips and the problem with the clips, I feel like I am risking cables and lights every time I do this. what could/should be a simple adjustment is made just about as difficult as could possibly be with this method. Instead of soldering these buttons on the main board, there should just be a little connector for a cable that runs to the front by the coin box with the buttons on the end. user configuration should never be buried in the most difficult place to get to.

#3442 26 days ago
Quoted from Guzz4851:

Very pleased with this product. Scott was very patient and helpful when I ran into issues. Thank you for a pleasant experience. Really well built and provides excellent light options. Thanks Scott!
[quoted image]

Wow that’s awesome to hear. I am glad you are happy and that I was able to help you out. Your WOZ looks incredible now!!

#3443 26 days ago
Quoted from elf70:

Hey Scott, sorry its kindof late now, maybe we can connect tomorrow over this, i dont want to be bothering you this late. Heres some clarification though for whenever you happen to check next.
Clamps: I have not used them before now. I tried using the ones that came with the Orions Belt for both of them together. one on each side. They came off the first time because the fit in back is really tight on this machine, and they rub against something else (other cables?) in back when the playfield is raised or lowered. they simply rubbed right off, and I found them loose around the cables at the bottom of the cabinet. I managed to stick them back on the first time, but then as I was saying, there is another issue about them holding the cables in place. I understand you to say that it is a good thing as it holds them approximately the right distance from the backboard while one opens it up, raising the playfield, and lowering it back and mounting the strips again on the magnets. This would be a good idea if the light strips actually were kept with the playfield when raised. The problem is they can not sit on top of the playfield while the playfield is lifted. What is left to do with the lightstrips while one raises the playfield (for example, to get at the buttons to set or adjust colors)? If I lay the lightstrips to the sides of the machine, or let them hang down or whatever, while they are clipped to the backboard, now I have the problem that moving/raising/lowering the playfield pulls on the ribbon cables. If they are laying to the side, they won't be after long. If they are dangling down the sides, they get pulled up until the end of the cable where the light strips begin, and it will pull tighter until presumably the ribbon cables will break off the lightstrips. This is a problem that effectively makes leaving the cables in any sort of cable management clips or whatever, an impossible scenario- as long as the lightstrips are attached to the cable. This is why it would seem imperative to be able to disconnect the light strips from the cable. There really is no other way around it. Believe me I tried -but I almost broke the light strips on both the pinstadium and the belt trying to use clips while raising and lowering the playfield. No this is not an issue of distance from the power - it is simply what happens if the ribbon cable is held to a fixed point on the backboard while one attempts to raise or lower the playfield.
As for a set-and-forget with the buttons.. I just don't see this happening. Even if I do have all the triggers placed where they will forever remain, it will no doubt take several or more adjustments to get the colors right. Everyone will also have their own thoughts/ideas/desires for color - that is what the buttons are for, right? But its buried in the back, underneath everything, and every time I have to open it up and raise the playfield now, aside from the extra effort it now takes with multiple strips and the problem with the clips, I feel like I am risking cables and lights every time I do this. what could/should be a simple adjustment is made just about as difficult as could possibly be with this method. Instead of soldering these buttons on the main board, there should just be a little connector for a cable that runs to the front by the coin box with the buttons on the end. user configuration should never be buried in the most difficult place to get to.

Okay that makes sense then if you had not used the cable clamps prior and if you place them in an area where the clamps get knocked off/run then that will definitely cause this issue you are experiencing. Make sure they clamp all the way down completely or the ribbon cable will slide.

Shoot me an email and I can show you where to put them on ST that will allow the clamps to hold in a secure location. If you need new clamps I will send some out when you email me let me know.

What I do with the light bars on both Orion’s and Pin Stadium is prior to when I raise the playfield is I find a sweet on the machine to tuck them under (usually habitrail return or under the edge of the return inland plastic rail guide (down to the left and right of the flippers works great). Each machine will have location that you find more convenient. This will allow you to in essence have a free form lift without the concern of the laying around lights.

I hooe that helps. Feel free to shoot me an email to scott@pinstadium.com and I can help show you this to explain it better specifically for your machine.

#3444 26 days ago

Hey Scott, will you have any stealth covers w/ you at Pincinnati for sale?

#3445 26 days ago
Quoted from Dantesmark:

Hey Scott, will you have any stealth covers w/ you at Pincinnati for sale?

Are you referring to the Invisi-Shields? If so then yes.

#3446 26 days ago

Great! Ill swing by!
Cant wait... its gonna rock!

#3447 25 days ago

Okay, got the Pinstadiums in last night. Tried my best to get a before and after shot this morning. Excited to be able to show this at Pincinnati!

6B951A63-0BF5-4509-915E-CEEAE2E462F2 (resized).jpegEB51EE4C-659D-4CD3-95DC-C1325CD7936B (resized).jpeg
#3448 25 days ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

Okay, got the Pinstadiums in last night. Tried my best to get a before and after shot this morning. Excited to be able to show this at Pincinnati!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looking really really good villathrills and this is the first "Before" and "After" posted up together. That is really helpful and it shows that very improved GI illumination on that beautiful artwork. Thank you for your business and support, very much appreciated!

#3449 25 days ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

Okay, got the Pinstadiums in last night. Tried my best to get a before and after shot this morning. Excited to be able to show this at Pincinnati!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looking forward to seeing that POTC at Pincinnati

#3450 23 days ago

Happy Thanksgiving!

I have made some more updates and enhancements for the installation instructions for Orion's Belt to make things even easier. Also included are some usage tips too. Here is the link:

https://pinstadium.com/installation-instructions/

orions_belt_cartoon2 (resized).png
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