What about a game with not many LED's on the playfield? My POTC is pretty much stock.
Should I just get Stadium lighting and pass on the LED's?

I am not sure anyone but you is qualified to answer that question. I would defiantly try this product before adding leds.

I suspect the lack of GI integration will neuter this product for machines with dynamic GI effects.

Congrats on your launch Scott! Can't wait to see them in person!

I'm sure it will get added in the future, but plenty of uses for this product as is, IMO.

Wow, I didn't realize this was not connected to the GI or that it had a separate on/off power.

I just ordered one of these kits last week, and frankly might have re-thought that if I knew these things. The separate on/off is annoying but not a deal-killer. Could this be wired to a 12V power source instead of powered by an always-on outlet?

The major downer is this not being connected to the GI. If the GI turns off, this NEEDS to turn off as well. Is that something in the plans for future versions? If it is not / will not be part of kits ordered in this first batch, is it possible to get out of my order? Before I would cancel my order, I would want to confirm how much GI dimming is in my game, but as a general kit, this seems like a must-have feature for games with controlled GI.

I'm interested. Can I see some pictures of the actual product (I like to see what I'm buying) including the light controller and power supply? In the video, it was too far to see how the lights are mounted. Can you show that in a close-up pic? Also, will it interfere with the glass? I still don't understand how you would service the playfield? After you unmount the lights do they just flap around while the playfield is up while working on it? This would be great for my Judge Dredd....I just need some more information and pic's on it would be great. Thank you.

What is the current draw at full brightness and RGB all white?

Don't take too long this Easter money is burning a hole in my pocket.

Yes that has to be known, especially for a Spike game. They don't have that much power to spare unless you use the service outlet.

Just re-wire the service outlet so it is switched on and off with the game. Here's info for WPC. Concept is the same for other models.

http://www.flippers.be/power_wiring.html

This uses the service outlet.

I know some of this is camera and in my case it might be taste, and perhaps seeing it in person might be different, but I think I prefer the before in this case.

I think there shouldn't be even lighting on the playfield. When the ball is rolling through the dark area's the reflection gives it difference and reflect the lighting with more variation. I would imagine in person, the ball's reflections are mostly highlights and high key to boot. I'm hoping a machine kitted out like this makes it way to Denver for the Rocky Mountain Pinball Show so I can see in person.

I'll caveat my perspective is a bit more nuanced, as I'm an artist and so think a bit more about some aspects than others care to.

I'll also say on the other hand that that options like this and a strong aftermarket are great for the hobby, just like it is with other hobbies, cars for example. To each his own and to each a one of a kind if they wish, which is great!

Aerosmith before and after looks great, you have my interest

It was suggested by the OP you could plug it directly into a 12v source in the machine in order to integrate it better. 1.2A max draw will be fine. At least for the SAM 12v rail. I haven't pushed spike yet. Any ideas OP on the spike 12v headroom?

Oh yeah sorry I missed that.

Photography of lights in a dark room is difficult. I think that video is actually doing you a disservice. The problem is that when the playfield is being lit by the factory lighting there are areas showing as close to black. Plenty of parts of the playfield are unreadable and close to invisible. In reality this is simply not the case.
Yes, the relativity might be showing as accurate, but the base case of factory-only lighting is inaccurate. Try lowering the contrast so that the darker areas appear clearly in the base case and go from there.
I think the kit is a good idea and I have ordered one. Just trying to help as I think this video may not achieve the desired outcome.

I would love to see what this looks like installed on a machine with mirror blades. My fear is you will be able to see the reflection of the opposing side's lights. Very interested in ordering this for my rob zombie and Addams family.

I would like to see the instructions here so that I know what I am possibly getting myself into.

I don't understand why you can post pictures of the actual product. you can make a video with a drone but you can't post pictures?

I played the Aerosmith at PAPA several times, and have some questions about your product.

To be honest, there were numerous "not so positive" comments made about the lighting with each group of people I played with. Specifically, the lighting strips were literally dangling in mid air even by day 2. Now I realize this is a demo machine that travels with Trent, but at the same point, AS hasn't been on the market for that long and this is not a good representation for an expensive mod.

Secondly, I'm trying to understand how your product differs from someone going on Ebay, buying several reels of 12V RGB SMD light strips, sticking them on with the included 3M tape (that seems to have the same "sticky" failure as what I observed at PAPA), and tying them into the Wifi controllers/color-matching-software that many of the vendors offer in the packages for like $20-$30.

The lighting difference is pretty remarkable and how it was applied, you really can't see or notice the mod, but I'm not getting the "value added" over an easy DYI.

Come on Evan! Easy DIY, for some maybe. I remember walking you through much of this stuff myself. Many can DIY and will I am sure. I have made a version of this that will turn on and off with the game as well as dim with the GI. I have been around and think I know what I am doing... I will be giving this to Scott with Pinstadium Saturday. It will be up to him to apply the things I show him.

Keep in mind he has a few weeks before any kits ship out. Great idea, looks like a great product. I would like to see a few small changes but again it is his mod and he will do what he thinks is best, I respect that.

Chris

Chris,

And I, along with hundreds (thousands?) of others, thank you for the amazing interactive undercab lighting stuff you've done for the hobby and all your other endeavors. And yes, there are many in this hobby who can DYI everything, some who can DYI basic stuff, and others who gladly pay for someone to given them the product and a pictorial to get setup. I guess my point, as well as that made by several others in this thread, is that the examples are great of pinball vs. stadium lit pinball, there's no argument. But what exactly is the product itself. All we could see at PAPA were light strips along the perimeter, and unfortunately those light strips weren't sticking. Was there anything more to it then that? Not a knock, because, like we both agree, there are thousands of collectors who don't want to source material and figure out the DYI aspect. Just trying to figure out what is all entailed here.

I saw your video of the light strip being pulled off the side, but what do you do with the light strips when you need to raise the playfield? Isn't the wiring still attached?

any word on the installation instructions? if not i guess i will wait till someone does a review and shows how they install.

Huge difference and massive improvement shown in that video, very interested in a kit for my BM66 as it's a very dark game when it comes to lighting, this should make all the colour on the playfields pop!

That's a much better video. Base case looks pretty realistic. When the stadium lights come on it's not so startling, but very obvious. Looking good.

Duct tape the phone to the drone.

This stuff intrigues me. Seems a no brainer for some early SAM and WPC games that are horrifically lit. But I'm still a little confused on usage case on a recent model Spike that has a lot of GI strobing/dimming etc . Or on a Met Prem/LE which has red white and blue GI color effects constantly. Would you tie to one of the colors? Back to Spike, If you do try to tie into a spike 5v flasher, you're confined to that single flasher for your flasher option it would seem. Or no?

Thanks for innovating.

I am looking forward to seeing this in person

(or at least some better actual photos of install of a model with the ability to turn on/off with the game and store a specific brightness.)

I saw these at the Ohio show and talked with the op a couple of times. They were amazing on his Rob Zombie pin.

This is awesome news! (My biggest hang up) and it also sounds like with a little effort it can be tied in to computer controlled GI, Dimming, etc... and saves the settings, i think this is an awesome idea!

Anyone try these on SYS. 11's?

I am thinking it would be a good addition to FIRE!, Wirlwind, and F-14 Tomcat!

My Fire is very dark too. This would help that game greatly.

Same with F14.

Interesting product, caught my attention to solve a common problem of not seeing the playfield in a dark room. However, the part where it is not directly linked to the GI and the programmed dimming modes in a game makes it a non-starter for me. Many of the pins made in the last 20 years (and even before that, going back to Blackout from the early '80s) use dimming the GI playfield light for dramatic effect and it works great. These stadium lights, while a good idea, don't seem to do that out of the box, but looks like it would be DIYable to tie it in. To me, if I have to DIY that part I might as well DIY the rest.

I will say though....the pics of the LOTR in a subtle green lighting really is nice......