***NEW*** PIN STADIUM Wifi Pinball Mods & Pinball LED Lights Announcement!!!

Hover set, Non magnetic mounting system, NEW - $40

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/108170

For those looking to hook up some NEO Fusions to a JP machine, this is what I found worked best after some experimenting:

1. UV/Glow Hooked up to Shaker Motor
2. 171 Spinner Flasher (Set it to Orange/Yellow)
3. 160 Escape Flasher (Set to Red to go with the Escape inserts)
4. 163 Raptor Pit Flasher (Set to Green - for now but may play with the colour)
5. 161 Raptor Pit Enter Flashers (The two lightning bolt flashers...took a while to find the right connections to tap into but figured it out after some trial and error. Set it to Blue)

I originally tapped into the left half pipe spotlight flasher but it was on solidly so much to light the t-rex during gameplay that it took away from the Orion Belt working/flashing dynamically.

Anyway, thought this may help someone else looking to hook up a JP.

My Pinstadium Fusions are warming up my Art Blades and causing them to peel down. I think I installed the Pinstadiums to close to the top or glass. This leads me to 2 questions:
Is there a way to safely remove the magnetic strips from my art blades, so I can move the strip lower and not have peeling?
Also, if I’m selling a game, but want to keep my Pinstadiums, should I leave the magnet strip in the game and buy a new one? If I try to remove it, will it take the cabinet paint off?

So just to be clear, are you saying the sandwich order is cabinet/side art/window tape/pinstadium magnet strips? And if we follow that order we should be able to remove the magnet strips if we are selling the game?

Thanks!

Disclaimer: I don't work for 3m.
I'll add to the magnetic strips portion. Whenever you remove or adjust adhesive it's compromised to some extent. If I'm keeping them I'm buying a new strip. As to the removal. A hair dryer on low heat and slow and smooth will easily release them from your blade or cabinet. The heat will allow the adhesive to stick to the mount and not the cabinet in most cases. You may have a tiny bit of cleanup. If your game is older and the cabinet is painted or weathered pretty good there is a chance a little paint is gonna come off in the removal process. There is little you can do to stop that short of freezing the adhesive. Like I said some warmish heat and slow is the trick for most applications.
The heat will also preserve the adhesive somewhat if you do in fact feel you need to move them down. But that's a chance i'm not taking.
I'm getting a new strip or i'm reapplying adhesive to the mount somehow.

Also, not to pile on but when I first read your post the first thing that came to my mind was the art blades were the culprit by either not being prepped correctly prior to installation or something interfering with the initial adhesion install with regard to the art blade itself(moisture with some sort of oily substance, grease, temp, dirt). I'm not saying it's anyone's fault but I am saying that's most likely the issue in my experience. Without seeing the actual pattern of what is peeling that's all I can offer. But in my mind if the magnets on the back of the pinstadiums aren't falling off at the same time there shouldn't be enough heat produced to peel the art blades from your cabinet. I'm not there so I can only shoot from the hip here with my personal experiences with Navy life, building cars back in the day, working at a body shop for a bit, etc... Prep is always key.

I've installed more than 1 set of art blades and I have 4 sets of pinstadiums as well. So there is some first hand experience I'm throwing in.

I hope you get it sorted. It's never any fun chasing an issue.

r/
Mike

Thank you for the information guys. My game is pretty new, so I don't think it's that dirty. However, one thing I didn't think about was currying time for the art blades. I installed the art blades and then installed the Pinstadiums an hour later. This might be the reason one side of my art blades are peeling down. I will try the 2 sided tape.
I thought that I mounted the Pinstadium Fusions to high or they were producing to much heat and melting the glue off the art blades. I didn't realize there was currying time for the are blades.

Question. Are your art blades the vinyl or the metal like mirror blade type. If normal vinyl I would not suggest any thick 2 sided tape if you're looking to add some adhesive to the top of your art blades between cabinet and the vinyl. I would be adding very thin 2 sided tape. I use this pictured below. I think the tape Scott suggested would be better suited for mirror blades because they are less flexible than vinyl is. Thicker tape would provide a more secure mount when installing less flexible material such as metal art blades. Vinyl is very pliable and thinner, high quality, 2 sided tape is sufficient in my opinion.
Scott can clarify and correct me if I'm way off here.
As for installing it and adding the tape itself. I'd be carefully cleaning the portion of the cabinet I want it to stick to and carefully putting the tape where I want it on the cabinet side first and then when I'm ready peeling the show side protective cover off tape and sticking the vinyl to the tape.
The only caveat to this is if your art blade has noticeable debri on the sticky side and or visible dirt then I might be tempted to go with the thicker tape to fill the valleys created by said dirt or debri. Highly unlikely this is the case but I'm trying to cover every base here.
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Thank you, they are vinyl.

Hey Scott, is there any other method to reset Pinstadiums that aren't resetting with the "unplug/replug 5 times" method? I got a used Star Wars this week with Pinstadiums already on them, there's no GI coming through the Pinstadiums even though it's hooked up properly underneath, just the UV Glow/Flasher works. Which I assume was the previous owner's setting (0% GI), and I want to change that but several attempts at the unplug/replug method isn't making them show up in the app.

I also hooked up Omegas to my Jurassic Park and Deadpool tonight. The Wolverine flasher insert is a brilliant choice for UV for Deadpool. On JP I used the flasher below the copter, which is a bit excessive, but I don't mind.

Loving the neos on my Williams Slugfest! Found 33% brightness with warm white works best for me. Havnt messed with the uv flasher on it yet.

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That looks great!

Thank you! I will play with that some when I get home!
Any thoughts on the uv flasher?

Here's my maiden pro, I had previously added green in the drain and frost blue I think its called up top. I love how you can fine tune the settings with pin stadiums! No reflection on the playfield like the ones you see by the 4th flipper. Scott, what about pin stadiums...ultra? Where its 360? Drain, sides, back? Each individually controlled with color? For you people on the fence, it really is a game changer, everyone loves the new lights! Honestly a very great upgrade for the cost! Plus very easy install, I'm a total noob and not very handy...I did it in 20 minutes. Thanks Scott! Oh Scott, btw is on it! Buy with confidence.

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I changed it to the Pharoah! You're right, its pretty freaking awesome! Thanks Scott!

Installed Omegas on Rick & Morty and Hot Wheels tonight. R&M was tricky, the wiretaps just wouldn't make good connections into the shaker motor connectors so I decided to use the alligator clips instead and that worked well. Here's a photo to help future R&M installers.

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And R&M at 30% white, which is what I've settled on for now:

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Here's Hot Wheels:

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I have an odd issue, though. If I set the white under about 80% it flickers, and the lower I set the white in the app, the more noticeable is the flicker to the point where it almost looks like a strobe light. So I have to have these at 80% for now, which is rather bright. Not sure if a simple on/off will fix things, or it's because the recommended GI tie in is in the backboard LEDs, and maybe their power pulses really quickly rather than a steady on? Or maybe my connection is a little loose, or who knows. Might be nothing, just bringing this up if Scott has heard of this strange "dimmer = more flicker" effect before.

I recently acquired a TZ and modded quite a bit (not the kitchen sink tho..) and did the Pinstadiums last. Had some support questions and Pin Stadium / someone named Scott was instant on reply it was great. Install wasn't as intimidating as i thought it was gonna be too.

So? Wow. From the first time it connects via wi fi - and I'm looking at the multi color light show - i knew it instantly we have a winner here. My landlord (who hasnt played a pin in 20 years) commented initially how dark the game was and even when he saw the lights was like wow thats amazing. Pictures don't do it justice - need to see it in person. Also, i feel like i got exactly what i paid for - its a good value (damn it feels good when you know your werent gypped!)

My only dilemma is haven't decided on the best light combination to use, they all look great (except for green on a TZ - no good).

Scott is awesome! Not too often the owner is literally in the next room anytime you have an issue. I'm not even kidding! Scott's response time is guinness book worthy.
I have just as much fun playing with the app and adjusting the lights. If you happened to get the NEOS they have another little secret door on the app to unlock. It's explained here.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-pin-stadium-lights-official-announcement/page/134#post-6066100

r/
Mike

Any hints on how settings for omega set on the Avengers IQ? I picked up a used one and they came with it. All my other sets have color so trying to figure our the whites.Thanks!

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