(Topic ID: 126514)

New pickup, Rocky and Bullwinkle, with questions


By Insane

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 97 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Insane
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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There are 97 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 4 years ago

I picked this up at PATZ. I have started to look it over and have some questions for any of you knowledgeable people. This was a re-import from Italy. In the first picture, is there something supposed to be attached to this post? I have found the blue paint, does anyone have a match for the yellow that is missing in the third pic. Has anyone found a good paint match to fix the missing paint in the nose on the BG? Also can someone tell me/showme where the bicycle plastic is or should be located? I have ordered the boris button and housing, but i don't have the brackets, does anyone know of a place that has them? Sorry for the multitude of questions. Also anyone know where i could get the green coin reject buttons? Mine are red and the insert is in italian. I also created a post on some of the cabinet damage questions, if you have any suggestions on those, they are greatly appreciated..
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-repair-question

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#2 4 years ago

Anyone?

#3 4 years ago

Looking at pics of others R&B it looks like the post was added...most likely to avoid ball hang ups.

Takes care of one question

#4 4 years ago

I looked at a number of pics on google images, and one of the post threads on here and I think it was on them as standard.

#5 4 years ago

It is standard and in the correct configuration. It is to prevent a space for the ball to land in should things get crazy. You can download a pdf of the manual that shows this if you don't have one.

The Bicycle plastic goes above the same-shaped mountains plastic in the upper right area where the pie display arm goes in. There are metal spacers that keep the bicycle plastic a little bit up from the mountain plastics. I can't remember the exact spacer height but it seemed like it either just larger or just smaller than 1/4th inch.

As for the yellow paint, I recall having to do some touch-up work on the playfield and I found a paint 'pen' on amazon that exactly matches, which turned out to be "Sun Yellow" from Krylon Short Cuts Paint Pens. Link: http://www.krylon.com/products/short-cuts-hobbycraft-paint-pens/

Boris launch housing brackets aren't made any more. People have resorted to making their own.

Lastly, the green coin buttons are no longer made (were originally made by Wells Gardner I think it was). Thankfully my R&B machine still had the originals, and I was able to clean and restore them to new condition.

#6 4 years ago
Quoted from FirebrandX:

It is standard and in the correct configuration. It is to prevent a space for the ball to land in should things get crazy. You can download a pdf of the manual that shows this if you don't have one.
The Bicycle plastic goes above the same-shaped mountains plastic in the upper right area where the pie display arm goes in. There are metal spacers that keep the bicycle plastic a little bit up from the mountain plastics. I can't remember the exact spacer height but it seemed like it either just larger or just smaller than 1/4th inch.
As for the yellow paint, I recall having to do some touch-up work on the playfield and I found a paint 'pen' on amazon that exactly matches, which turned out to be "Sun Yellow" from Krylon Short Cuts Paint Pens. Link: http://www.krylon.com/products/short-cuts-hobbycraft-paint-pens/
Boris launch housing brackets aren't made any more. People have resorted to making their own.
Lastly, the green coin buttons are no longer made (were originally made by Wells Gardner I think it was). Thankfully my R&B machine still had the originals, and I was able to clean and restore them to new condition.

Thanks for the info. I read that the green buttons weren't made anymore, just didn't know if anyone knew of a source that still had them. I was able to get a boris launch housing, I just need to figure out the brackets. the straight one is easy, the L shape is a little tougher to get right. so if anyone can get me the dimensions, that's awesome. thanks for your response. I did find the bicycle plastic on mine.

#7 4 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

Thanks for the info. I read that the green buttons weren't made anymore, just didn't know if anyone knew of a source that still had them.

I scoured the Earth. The only way I found to get them was to buy a used coin door that still had them intact. Other than that, they are "unobtainium", much like many of the parts used in R&B.

#8 4 years ago

Hopefully these photos will help you with the bracket.

Alan

button bracket1.jpg button bracket2.jpg button bracket3.jpg R&B start button small.jpg
#9 4 years ago

No idea if this is an original part or not, but there was also a thin metal section on mine which goes inside the plastic button housing. Like this.

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#10 4 years ago
Quoted from P2K:

Hopefully these photos will help you with the bracket.
Alan

button bracket1.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
button bracket2.jpg
button bracket3.jpg
R&B start button small.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

That's great, thanks. are those 1" increments? Also whats the thickness?

#11 4 years ago

That post seems oddly familiar from mine. I will check my teardown pics I took last year when I get home from the office tonight. I will confirm. Could have been a European/Canadian thing.

#12 4 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

That's great, thanks. are those 1" increments? Also whats the thickness?

The bracket is 1" wide X .09" thick.
The photos have a 1" grid with 1/8" minor divisions.

Alan

#13 4 years ago

i assumed so, but i prefer not to assume.

#14 4 years ago

Can someone take a pic of the coil side of the saved drops, mine seems to work hard, and I think it might be the way the coil plunger attaches, and I want to make sure mine is factory correct.

#15 4 years ago

Is this what you need?

Can you do me a favor? I need close up photos of each graphic on the front of the cabinet (4 graphics: WABAC, START, moose and squirrel, bottom marquee under door).
My cabinet front is very bad and I can't get good scans of these for restoration. Good photos would work fine for me. If you can do them please email them.

Thanks.
Alan

saved drops1.jpg saved drops2.jpg
#16 4 years ago

Thats exactly what i wanted. I will be happy to get you the pics you want, but it will be next week, i am leaving in the morning on vacation, and the pin is currently at my in-laws.

I think the blue piece on mine is broken a little, as it looks more like a triangle then yours does, if i remember correctly.

1 week later
#17 4 years ago

Will these work?

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1 week later
#18 4 years ago

So i've discovered a small issue. When i'm playing if i hold the left flipper up fo any time, it stays up after i let off the button for a time, or until i hit the right flipper. Also sometimes after i've had the PF up, there is a coil under the apron that cycles off and on for a while? Any suggestions

#19 4 years ago

Your SSFB might be going bad. The coil under the apron might be some sort of short or something?

#20 4 years ago

I figured something might be shorting, need to investigate more. Is there anyway to test the SSFB?

#21 4 years ago

I'm not an expert on it, but mine went bad last year by blowing the fuse for the right flipper. Rather than try to replace components on it, I just ordered one of those new designs by PinLED on ebay. It arrived in two weeks and has worked great ever since.

One other issue I had with the flippers wigging out turned out to be a short in the lights for the drop targets (the railroad inserts). One of the LEDs I had installed was defective, where a line of solder was shorting it. When I replaced that LED, the flippers went back to normal. I've had pinball techs tell me this shouldn't have messed with the flippers, but it in fact did.

#22 4 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

So i've discovered a small issue. When i'm playing if i hold the left flipper up fo any time, it stays up after i let off the button for a time, or until i hit the right flipper. Also sometimes after i've had the PF up, there is a coil under the apron that cycles off and on for a while? Any suggestions

Replace the diode on the flipper coil

#23 4 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

Replace the diode on the coil

A similar thread on DE pin that I helped with awhile back....might be useful to you

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tftc-stuck-flipper

#24 4 years ago

As for the coil under the apron cycling, that'd be the ball trough eject coil I'm guessing? Are you raising the PF with the balls still in the trough and a game started? Or is this with the machine powered on but in attract mode?

#25 4 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

As for the coil under the apron cycling, that'd be the ball trough eject coil I'm guessing? Are you raising the PF with the balls still in the trough and a game started? Or is this with the machine powered on but in attract mode?

Turned off, but still plugged in, balls in trough. The first time it happened, i thought it might be the balls not sitting on the switch correctly.

#26 4 years ago

If you lifted the playfield with the balls still in there, I'd expect that to be just the balls falling back into place. It's a good idea to take the balls out before raising the playfield, and then put them back in after you're done. You never know when one of those will come falling out and damage something.

At any rate, that's really weird that the coil would be firing with the game turned off. I'd tend to think something is wrong with the ground wiring.

#27 4 years ago

Turned Off??? As in the switch under the cabinet? There should be no power to the coils in that case, regardless of whether it was getting a ground.

Now, if you meant no game started, then the coil is getting a ground from somewhere.

#28 4 years ago

Turned off when i lift PF, coil cycles after i lower pf and turn on and start game.

#29 4 years ago

Ah yes, that should be normal then if it only happens when you turn it back on.

#30 4 years ago

Anybody know what i would gain going to ver 3.2 rom set?

#32 4 years ago

Ok, so a few new issues, when playing and getting multiball, it shows the building display, then soon after, the display goes black and shows nothing until I lose multiball, then it will restart sometimes showing the display version, sometimes not and showing the shoot right to restart multiball. I assume somewhere I am losing some voltage? Also after I lose the multiball, I am getting random Wrong hat and other sounds, when I know I haven't hit the hat targets? any thoughts?
Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated. This is the most I've paid for any machine and I bought it on the thoughts that the minor cosmetic issues were the only real issues.

#33 4 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

Anybody know what i would gain going to ver 3.2 rom set?

I've been meaning to write up some of the differences in addition to what's in that thread. One important difference is that 1.30 doesn't properly reinitialize the display if it gets reset (either due to a software bug or low +5V). I had a flakey connector on my display and saw this many times. After a reset, the display will go black when it is supposed to display the score, but other animations appear. At the end of the ball, the display is reinitialized and it starts working normally again. With 3.20 it will still reset if the voltage drops, but after the reset the scores still appear.

Unfortunately, there are a few problems with 3.20 that aren't in 1.30. For example, Instant Info sometimes shows an incorrect number of extra balls. Also, it appears at least one of the USA coinage settings may be buggy, but it shouldn't matter for home use.

#34 4 years ago

So i wonder if i have a flaky display connector? what should i look for, loose wires, loose connection..
The weird part is that it only seems to happen in multiball mode. I wonder if one of the animations for multiball "overloads" the connector which causes it to go out.

#35 4 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

Also after I lose the multiball, I am getting random Wrong hat and other sounds, when I know I haven't hit the hat targets? any thoughts?

I'm not sure that it was correlated with multi-ball, but when my R&B started having sound problems it was similar to what you describe. It was as if the sounds lost sync with the game- some were missing and others played at the wrong times. I reseated all of the socketed roms in the game, and it's been fine since. Mine had no display issues at the time.

#36 4 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

So i wonder if i have a flaky display connector? what should i look for, loose wires, loose connection..
The weird part is that it only seems to happen in multiball mode. I wonder if one of the animations for multiball "overloads" the connector which causes it to go out.

My guess is that because you are seeing other problems you might have low voltage problems. Maybe all the ball launch and pop bumper coils firing during multiball is stressing a power component that is near failure. I had similar problems on my LAH when the bridge rectifier was going out (sound problems initially, but eventually display resets and then game resets).

My display power connector was an obvious operator hack job where the IDC connector had been replaced with a crimp splice connector that was just slid onto the pin.

#37 4 years ago

Ok, i'll look up how to check out the rectifiers and other parts on the power supply.

#38 4 years ago

Check your incoming ac voltage too. I fixed an rb once and it was sole due to low incoming ac.

#39 4 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

Check your incoming ac voltage too. I fixed an rb once and it was sole due to low incoming ac.

so just check voltage at the wall plug? ok

#40 4 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

so just check voltage at the wall plug?

Yes. Check with any other big loads in the house that might be a problem turned on. Could be one circuit in your house, or the whole house, or the whole area.
Not sure about your area, but I've seen areas nearby where the I&M/AEP line voltage is down around 100 volts on a 120 line, especially during peak customer use. Big loads in your house (AC, heat pump, etc.) can make that even worse.

#41 4 years ago

Ok, checked the line voltage, solid at 120V. Have to check in the game yet, as it is plugged in to an extension cord, and the game cord has some tape on it, so I think it might have been damaged at some point. I figured out the coil cycling problem. The coil that kicks the ball from the out hole to the trough was cycling. When I lifted the PF, I must have set it down on the switch as I bent the lead so that it was barely touching the ground lead.

#42 4 years ago

Depending on extension cord quality and gauge, you could have enough voltage loss at the game to cause issues.

#43 4 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

Depending on extension cord quality and gauge, you could have enough voltage loss at the game to cause issues.

thats what i was thinking..Something to check.

#44 4 years ago
Quoted from classicgamefan:

I've been meaning to write up some of the differences in addition to what's in that thread. One important difference is that 1.30 doesn't properly reinitialize the display if it gets reset (either due to a software bug or low +5V). I had a flakey connector on my display and saw this many times. After a reset, the display will go black when it is supposed to display the score, but other animations appear. At the end of the ball, the display is reinitialized and it starts working normally again. With 3.20 it will still reset if the voltage drops, but after the reset the scores still appear.
Unfortunately, there are a few problems with 3.20 that aren't in 1.30. For example, Instant Info sometimes shows an incorrect number of extra balls. Also, it appears at least one of the USA coinage settings may be buggy, but it shouldn't matter for home use.

I looked at mine some more today, and my display seems to be doing this, no score, but yes to the other animations. Then when i lose the ball, it shows sherman doing the bonus, then on the next ball, the score is back. I just have to figure out why, am i losing 5v or what?

#45 4 years ago

Well today i found another neat issue. It appears that the bulbs in my backbox aren't standard. They are supposed to be 555, and mine are all bayonet style (47 etc). also i have some of the large #89's. Nice another thing not correct. I'm so glad i paid what i did...NOT..oh well, live and learn... I also observed that my display lost the score, without it being multiball. I check the bridge rectifiers, i believe they are good...

#46 4 years ago

Yeah, I think my backbox is all 555's apart from a few behind where the coils are for the hat trick assembly.

I would presume that someone has had faulty bulb holders at some point and rather than get the right ones to replace them they've just used what they had lying around. Shame

#47 4 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

Well today i found another neat issue. It appears that the bulbs in my backbox aren't standard. They are supposed to be 555, and mine are all bayonet style (47 etc). also i have some of the large #89's. Nice another thing not correct. I'm so glad i paid what i did...NOT..oh well, live and learn... I also observed that my display lost the score, without it being multiball. I check the bridge rectifiers, i believe they are good...

That is a good thing. 555 sockets suck! As do the flasher bulb equivalents.

#48 4 years ago

I haven't had much experience with wedge type bulbs, all my other games are bayonet. But when you order a "bunch"(term loosely used) of led's based on your game, and they come in different then what you have, it sucks. Not big money or anything, just the principal. and unfortunately the game isn't at my home yet, its currently at the in-laws. I didn't think to look before I ordered, figured they are promoted as for that game, should be right. then they're not but before I get with seller I find out mine is wrong / different.

#49 4 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

But when you order a "bunch"(term loosely used) of led's based on your game, and they come in different then what you have, it sucks. Not big money or anything, just the principal.

Yeah, missed the LED part. That sucks... I can't think of other games that use them other than Bally games, which you can't use LEDs on anyway without modifying things.

#50 4 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

Well today i found another neat issue. It appears that the bulbs in my backbox aren't standard. They are supposed to be 555, and mine are all bayonet style (47 etc). also i have some of the large #89's. Nice another thing not correct. I'm so glad i paid what i did...NOT..oh well, live and learn...

keep on learning! early R&B's used different lights than later R&B's yours are most likely correct check with Melissa @ coin taker she has experienced this with past orders and can direct you with your bulbs.

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