Looking at pics of others R&B it looks like the post was added...most likely to avoid ball hang ups.

Takes care of one question

It is standard and in the correct configuration. It is to prevent a space for the ball to land in should things get crazy. You can download a pdf of the manual that shows this if you don't have one.

The Bicycle plastic goes above the same-shaped mountains plastic in the upper right area where the pie display arm goes in. There are metal spacers that keep the bicycle plastic a little bit up from the mountain plastics. I can't remember the exact spacer height but it seemed like it either just larger or just smaller than 1/4th inch.

As for the yellow paint, I recall having to do some touch-up work on the playfield and I found a paint 'pen' on amazon that exactly matches, which turned out to be "Sun Yellow" from Krylon Short Cuts Paint Pens. Link: http://www.krylon.com/products/short-cuts-hobbycraft-paint-pens/

Boris launch housing brackets aren't made any more. People have resorted to making their own.

Lastly, the green coin buttons are no longer made (were originally made by Wells Gardner I think it was). Thankfully my R&B machine still had the originals, and I was able to clean and restore them to new condition.

I scoured the Earth. The only way I found to get them was to buy a used coin door that still had them intact. Other than that, they are "unobtainium", much like many of the parts used in R&B.

Hopefully these photos will help you with the bracket.

Alan

button bracket1.jpg

button bracket2.jpg

button bracket3.jpg

R&B start button small.jpg

No idea if this is an original part or not, but there was also a thin metal section on mine which goes inside the plastic button housing. Like this.

2014-09-09 07.39.48.jpg

That post seems oddly familiar from mine. I will check my teardown pics I took last year when I get home from the office tonight. I will confirm. Could have been a European/Canadian thing.

The bracket is 1" wide X .09" thick.
The photos have a 1" grid with 1/8" minor divisions.

Alan

Is this what you need?

Can you do me a favor? I need close up photos of each graphic on the front of the cabinet (4 graphics: WABAC, START, moose and squirrel, bottom marquee under door).
My cabinet front is very bad and I can't get good scans of these for restoration. Good photos would work fine for me. If you can do them please email them.

Thanks.
Alan

saved drops1.jpg

saved drops2.jpg

Your SSFB might be going bad. The coil under the apron might be some sort of short or something?

I'm not an expert on it, but mine went bad last year by blowing the fuse for the right flipper. Rather than try to replace components on it, I just ordered one of those new designs by PinLED on ebay. It arrived in two weeks and has worked great ever since.

One other issue I had with the flippers wigging out turned out to be a short in the lights for the drop targets (the railroad inserts). One of the LEDs I had installed was defective, where a line of solder was shorting it. When I replaced that LED, the flippers went back to normal. I've had pinball techs tell me this shouldn't have messed with the flippers, but it in fact did.

Replace the diode on the flipper coil

A similar thread on DE pin that I helped with awhile back....might be useful to you

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tftc-stuck-flipper

As for the coil under the apron cycling, that'd be the ball trough eject coil I'm guessing? Are you raising the PF with the balls still in the trough and a game started? Or is this with the machine powered on but in attract mode?

If you lifted the playfield with the balls still in there, I'd expect that to be just the balls falling back into place. It's a good idea to take the balls out before raising the playfield, and then put them back in after you're done. You never know when one of those will come falling out and damage something.

At any rate, that's really weird that the coil would be firing with the game turned off. I'd tend to think something is wrong with the ground wiring.

Turned Off??? As in the switch under the cabinet? There should be no power to the coils in that case, regardless of whether it was getting a ground.

Now, if you meant no game started, then the coil is getting a ground from somewhere.

Ah yes, that should be normal then if it only happens when you turn it back on.

Not a great deal from what i've read elsewhere on here....

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rb-v32-roms-anyone-use-in-their-machine#post-512337

I've been meaning to write up some of the differences in addition to what's in that thread. One important difference is that 1.30 doesn't properly reinitialize the display if it gets reset (either due to a software bug or low +5V). I had a flakey connector on my display and saw this many times. After a reset, the display will go black when it is supposed to display the score, but other animations appear. At the end of the ball, the display is reinitialized and it starts working normally again. With 3.20 it will still reset if the voltage drops, but after the reset the scores still appear.

Unfortunately, there are a few problems with 3.20 that aren't in 1.30. For example, Instant Info sometimes shows an incorrect number of extra balls. Also, it appears at least one of the USA coinage settings may be buggy, but it shouldn't matter for home use.

I'm not sure that it was correlated with multi-ball, but when my R&B started having sound problems it was similar to what you describe. It was as if the sounds lost sync with the game- some were missing and others played at the wrong times. I reseated all of the socketed roms in the game, and it's been fine since. Mine had no display issues at the time.

My guess is that because you are seeing other problems you might have low voltage problems. Maybe all the ball launch and pop bumper coils firing during multiball is stressing a power component that is near failure. I had similar problems on my LAH when the bridge rectifier was going out (sound problems initially, but eventually display resets and then game resets).

My display power connector was an obvious operator hack job where the IDC connector had been replaced with a crimp splice connector that was just slid onto the pin.

Check your incoming ac voltage too. I fixed an rb once and it was sole due to low incoming ac.

Yes. Check with any other big loads in the house that might be a problem turned on. Could be one circuit in your house, or the whole house, or the whole area.
Not sure about your area, but I've seen areas nearby where the I&M/AEP line voltage is down around 100 volts on a 120 line, especially during peak customer use. Big loads in your house (AC, heat pump, etc.) can make that even worse.

Depending on extension cord quality and gauge, you could have enough voltage loss at the game to cause issues.

Yeah, I think my backbox is all 555's apart from a few behind where the coils are for the hat trick assembly.

I would presume that someone has had faulty bulb holders at some point and rather than get the right ones to replace them they've just used what they had lying around. Shame

That is a good thing. 555 sockets suck! As do the flasher bulb equivalents.

Yeah, missed the LED part. That sucks... I can't think of other games that use them other than Bally games, which you can't use LEDs on anyway without modifying things.

keep on learning! early R&B's used different lights than later R&B's yours are most likely correct check with Melissa @ coin taker she has experienced this with past orders and can direct you with your bulbs.