(Topic ID: 255515)

New owner questions

By undrdog

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 26 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by undrdog
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

Bally (resized).png
3562B02F-9713-4A7F-AD68-FFF297A96894 (resized).jpeg
B90E100E-0BC5-4E70-B487-60C37870B215 (resized).jpeg
C34E256D-A589-46ED-AE86-87925C86D2C5 (resized).jpeg
9C729044-C564-474E-9281-A99AE492703B (resized).jpeg
#1 4 years ago

Back in the late 1980s, my wife got me a machine for my birthday, which was Mystic. It came with a 90 day warranty and, at the end of the 90 days, the guy was so tired of coming out to fix it he gave us our money back. Fast forward to this summer, when I found a new pinball parlour had opened up nearby (BOS Pinball in Garland). I was thrilled that they had a Mystic. I played it all summer and fell in love with it.

So, that explains me buying a project machine that I just had to have. Last Saturday, someone on Craigslist had one about 3 hours away. (And wouldn't you know, after I get that one, a Mystic in very nice condition was listed on eBay!)

Anyway, I got the Mystic and it was working even less after we got it home after a 3 hour drive from the laundromat where I picked it up than when I bought it.

A highly recommended tech is coming out in a few weeks to get it fixed up. In the meantime, I have lots of questions spinning around in my mind...

The wood isn't too bad, but the paint is faded and flaking off in many places. Where do I get the stencils to re-paint it? How do I find the right colors & kind of paint?

How do I know what score to set for a free game? Sure, the machine will be on free play, but it is nice to hear that POP and know that you've done at least that well. Is there a rule of thumb for that? I'm guessing there are suggestions in the manual that I don't have.

Same question about how steep to make the game when leveling it. Mystic has a captive ball so the harder the slope, the harder it will be to get the multipliers. I want it challenging, but still fun.

This is more of a philosophical question... the drop targets look new and have a bullseye on them. The original drop targets would have had a stylized starburst pattern, I'm pretty sure. Considering the rest of the machine is in mostly fair - good condition, should I try to find the right decals or leave well enough alone?

Its a four player machine. Two of the scores look ok. Two look like spaghetti. Someone told me those are no longer available. Is that right? Seems like there'd be an after market. I'd rather not go to LED scores if I don't have to.

The playfield looks pretty good. How do I know whether I need to "shop" it or just let it be?

I'm really not looking to rebuild a pinball machine as a new hobby. But I wanted Mystic and felt like I needed to get this one because it was available and within driving range.

Would appreciate your thoughts & encouragements!

Mike

#3 4 years ago

Start with one thing at a time. I try to get a machine 100% playable before a tear down and restore.
With this one I would go through all the boards, if they are originals, update all the power capacitors, there are people who sell kits.
Then find any SCRs and or transistors that are bad, replace those. Might have a burnt resistor or two. You will likely need to learn what re-flowing and re-pinning is, certainly if the boards are original.
Then try to diagnose the display issues. Functioning originals can be found if you want those, else the new LEDs are pretty nice for one they DON'T use the high voltage any longer.
Buy some Titan brand o-rings and flipper rubbers, then just play it for a while.
Scour Pinside and the resource pages and slowly cross one thing after another off your to do list.

Welcome to your new obsession, more addicting than porn!

#4 4 years ago
Quoted from undrdog:

How do I know what score to set for a free game? Sure, the machine will be on free play, but it is nice to hear that POP and know that you've done at least that well. Is there a rule of thumb for that? I'm guessing there are suggestions in the manual that I don't have.

No, it will not be set for free play. That was not an option on that era Bally unless it has an aftermarket modern cpu like Altek.

Best way to set the scoring threshholds is by playing it and using the included score cards to determine which is hard enough you won't get it everytime, but not so hard it only happens once in a blue moon.

#5 4 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

No, it will not be set for free play. That was not an option on that era Bally unless it has an aftermarket modern cpu like Altek.
Best way to set the scoring threshholds is by playing it and using the included score cards to determine which is hard enough you won't get it everytime, but not so hard it only happens once in a blue moon.

You can also set the replay as low as it will go, to act like free play, since you win a free game during every game. You get the replay knock, and don't run out of credits.

#6 4 years ago

Post some pics of the playfield and displays, so we can see what you are asking about.
Oh, and Welcome!

#7 4 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

You can also set the replay as low as it will go, to act like free play, since you win a free game during every game. You get the replay knock, and don't run out of credits.

I've seen that and total weak sauce on that method. I'd rather just drop a quarter in it.

#8 4 years ago

Thanks, everyone!

Quoted from o-din:

No, it will not be set for free play.

The one at BOS Lounge here has it on free play, so I thought this one could be set that way, too. Maybe theirs has been updated.

One mod I know I can make on my own is a different plunger. This one has the point on it to discourage players like me from hitting it with our palm instead of pulling it back. Gonna get a shiney new round one.

Picture posted. I was so excited to get the machine that I didn’t even notice the scores were dark. I can post better pictures in a few days. At least it has the recessed eye. Stay tuned....

9C729044-C564-474E-9281-A99AE492703B (resized).jpeg9C729044-C564-474E-9281-A99AE492703B (resized).jpeg
#9 4 years ago

I may have a couple of Bally 6 digit displays that I don't need, would need to check though.

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from undrdog:

The one at BOS Lounge here has it on free play, so I thought this one could be set that way, too. Maybe theirs has been updated.

Many have been updated to an Altek all in one board that will work in most in most classic Ballys and Sterns with code preloaded. As original boards sometimes were eaten up by battery damage. It also eliminates the battery.

However the free play option is only for Bally.

#11 4 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Welcome to your new obsession, more addicting than porn!

I'll check on that and get back to you.

I saw a youtube vid on repairing old score displays. It seemed to go through every thing that could go wrong on the display board, but didn't even mention checking to see if the plasma is still good. How do I know if the problem is the plasma and not to bother messing with the board?

Went to my local place last night and played Mystic for an hour or so. (I can't get to mine for a few days and its still broken.) What does addicted mean?

#12 4 years ago
Quoted from undrdog:

What does addicted mean?

It's kind of an excuse used on pinside to glorify the buying of as many machines as you can.

It somehow helps soften the reality and gives comradery when you run out of money and space.

#13 4 years ago

It’s an altec board.

Found a seven digit LED display to work in my six digit Bally SS machine at XPin. Very tempting!

2 weeks later
#14 4 years ago

My Mystic is up & running!

Everything works now, it just needs some fine tuning. The pop bumper area isn’t as lively as it could be. Maybe new rubbers would help.

The ball frequently hits the glass off of the center drop targets. I don’t remember that happening on another Mystic I’ve played. Any ideas to fix that?

The gi is led. They don’t match well with the other lights, and they are too bright. Hoping there are leds available that match incandescent better.

The ball got stuck on top of dropped drop targets on the right bank. Hoping those can be adjusted so they are more flush with the playfield.

The plastics are loose, but the nuts seem to be as tight as they will go. What's up with that? Should I put some spacers in? What do folks use for spacers?

Thanks!

#15 4 years ago
Quoted from undrdog:

Everything works now, it just needs some fine tuning. The pop bumper area isn’t as lively as it could be. Maybe new rubbers would help.

Check the underside of the pop bumper to make sure the switches are gapped properly. If the gap is too wide it takes more downward force from the skirt to hit the spoon. This results in the pop bumper not being as active.

Quoted from undrdog:

The ball frequently hits the glass off of the center drop targets. I don’t remember that happening on another Mystic I’ve played. Any ideas to fix that?

Check the screws on the underside of the target to ensure they're not loose. Also, take the drop target out and look at the metal angle (bracket) to see if it's bent backwards. If so, bend it forward some. The air balls you're encountering is probably due to the target being bent backwards some. If it's straight up and down it will shoot the ball back out and not up.

Quoted from undrdog:

The gi is led. They don’t match well with the other lights, and they are too bright. Hoping there are leds available that match incandescent better.

LEDs are a matter of preference. For most of the older games of this era most wont put LEDs in the GI as they're too bright and give more of a spot light appearance. However, if you're set on having LEDs in the GI go with the Warm ones. Your issue might be that the ones in your game are Bright White LEDs.

Quoted from undrdog:

The ball got stuck on top of dropped drop targets on the right bank. Hoping those can be adjusted so they are more flush with the playfield.

Look at the assembly for the drop targets as a lot of them have an adjustment plate that will allow you to adjust the level of the target so they're flush with the playfield. If you dont have one then you can go out and buy a sheet of magnet at a craft store. Cut the sheet to length of the assembly by 2" wide and then set it in the bottom inside of the assembly where the drop targets come to rest. This will bring the targets up to playfield level. You may need to stack a few strips to bring them up to the playfield level.

Quoted from undrdog:

The plastics are loose, but the nuts seem to be as tight as they will go. What's up with that? Should I put some spacers in? What do folks use for spacers?

Actually you're probably better off with them being a little loose. This way if the ball hits the plastic it will give as opposed to being tight they wont move when hit thus be more prone to breaking.

#16 4 years ago

meSz Thank you!

#17 4 years ago

@mesz
The drop target assembly is a box with screws all around. If the bottom plate is bent any, the holes won’t line up and it won’t be able to be screwed back together.

Which part is supposed to be bent out?

C34E256D-A589-46ED-AE86-87925C86D2C5 (resized).jpegC34E256D-A589-46ED-AE86-87925C86D2C5 (resized).jpeg
#18 4 years ago
Quoted from undrdog:

@mesz
The drop target assembly is a box with screws all around. If the bottom plate is bent any, the holes won’t line up and it won’t be able to be screwed back together.
Which part is supposed to be bent out?[quoted image]

Okay so your assembly is a fixed assembly, meaning it doesn't have the adjustable plate like others (pic below is one I have here that has the adjustable plate).
B90E100E-0BC5-4E70-B487-60C37870B215 (resized).jpegB90E100E-0BC5-4E70-B487-60C37870B215 (resized).jpeg
So what you can do now is resort to putting magnet strips on the inside bottom of the drop target assembly. Something like https://www.amazon.com/Master-Magnetics-Magnet-Magnetic-08505/dp/B005HY9KDM/ref=sr_1_6 that you can buy at local craft store as you only need a strip as wide as the assembly X approximately 2". Put one piece in where the bottom of the drop target comes down (see pic below, area circled in red).
3562B02F-9713-4A7F-AD68-FFF297A96894 (resized).jpeg3562B02F-9713-4A7F-AD68-FFF297A96894 (resized).jpeg
Put one strip in and see if the top of the drop targets are now flush with the playfield. If not, add another strip and so on. The good thing with the magnets is that they will stay in place and if multiple layers are needed (again) they will stay in place.

#19 4 years ago

Thanks. That was going to be my next step.

And then work on fine tuning the pop bumpers. Still thinking I should replace the rubbers, on general principles. Can’t hurt.

#20 4 years ago
Quoted from undrdog:

Thanks. That was going to be my next step.
And then work on fine tuning the pop bumpers. Still thinking I should replace the rubbers, on general principles. Can’t hurt.

By all means put new rubbers on it if they haven't been changed. Also throw a new pinball in as well. But for the pop bumpers open up your machine and lift the playfield up. Press down on the bumper skirt and look on the underside at how the spoon (burgundy) is closing the switch (purple). What you want to do is have the gap in the switch just opened enough so as soon as you start pressing down on the bumper skirt it's closing the switch. This means as soon as the pinball is making contact with the skirt it's going to fire that pop bumper. Just don't have the switch too closed as you don't want it to the point that it's so closed that vibration will cause misfires.

(Disclaimer: The picture below is of a Bally Pop Bumper but not necessarily one found in Mystic )

Bally (resized).pngBally (resized).png
#21 4 years ago

Thanks!

As far as the ball hitting the glass off the drop targets, I figure I’ll just raise the glass up some.

#22 4 years ago

#23 4 years ago

Moving along. Got a new set of leg levelers. One of the old ones was stuck on so bad I had to remove the leg, cut the bolt flush and drill it out! Won’t have that problem any more. Haven’t had time to do the drop targets or pop bumpers yet.

The Special inset is sunken down a tad, and the ball hangs on it. I'd planned to raise it up flush and secure it with a drop of superglue, but the tech who serviced the machine said not to touch it. Is that a harder job than it seems? Is there a clear coat seal that would break or something?

#24 4 years ago

Adjusted the contacts on the pop bumpers. Noticeable difference. With new rubbers it'll really rock!

Didn’t have the time to disassemble and work on the spoons, but it doesn’t seem necessary right now. Will have to replace the light sockets in them.

#25 4 years ago
Quoted from undrdog:

Didn’t have the time to disassemble and work on the spoons, but it doesn’t seem necessary right now. Will have to replace the light sockets in them.

The spoons, you can visually inspect them. Look for them to be broken or cracked. This is not that common but was something to look for. Also, you don't have to take the light sockets out for this as the spoon is part of the stack. You would unscrew the stack from the playfield and remove the spoon. Just FYI

2 weeks later
#26 4 years ago

Replacing the plastic flipper bats. One had broken. The other I could see is cracked.

Lost a set screw in the machine somewhere.

The good news is I found the washer that I lost a few weeks ago, messing with the drop targets. One in, one out.

Time to get a magnet. Think I’ll weld a rare earth magnet to a rod. Or maybe use my Harbor Freight gift card I got for Christmas.

My Christmas plan is to practice soldering on an old circuit board.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 22.50
$ 18.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
 
$ 9.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 10.00
$ 69.00
$ 119.95
Boards
Allteksystems
 
$ 25.00
Cabinet Parts
Volcano Pinball
 
$ 8.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
 

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-owner-questions-?hl=undrdog and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.