(Topic ID: 138515)

New owner of non-working 1977 Eight Ball with MPU problems

By keenerb

8 years ago



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  • 7 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by vid1900
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 8 years ago

I picked up a (thankfully) 100% functional Mr. and Mrs. Pac-Man pinball machine, and a troubled 1977 Bally Eight Ball.

The Eight Ball initially powered on but the MPU diagnostic LED did not illuminate at all. I checked the voltages and everything was spot-on on the test points. All the fuses also appear to be fine.

The MPU has been obviously and crudely repaired, I've attached a high-resolution photo. I believe the original brown chip sockets were replaced?

I took the MPU, gently removed the chips, and cleaned the tiny bit of corrosion I saw off and resoldered a few suspect points. When re-installing the chips, I noticed that socket U2 had a broken leg and I repaired as best as I could with a small copper wire. Chip U2 is actually sitting in a brand-new IC2 socket I just pushed down into the old socket; you can see the extra four leg sockets to the left, although they are NOT touching the board itself so shouldn't be causing a short.

After that little bit of work I was rewarded with a solid green LED (yay progress) with no blinking, and a still-non-functional game.

So, I'm left pondering a few things.

I don't know what else in the game may or may not be working; it's hard to justify dropping $200 on a new modern MPU without knowing the status of the other boards/solenoids/etc.

The problem could be chip U2; either it was damaged or I damaged it trying to fix the leg. Can replacements for those chips be sourced? A quick ebay search found a few "CPU chips" and whatnot but possibly I need to modify the MPU to support different chip types?

I don't know if the condition of the board is good enough to send off for repair. I've seen services offered from $60 to $160 for MPU refurbishing, and at $100+ I'd probably lean more towards the modern, new MPU that I could also use in the PacMan Pinball should I choose to.

Is the Mr. and Mrs. Pac-Man MPU board compatible? Could I do a simple board swap between the two to check the solenoids, LCD displays, kickbacks, targets, etc?

Thanks for your advice.

mpu.jpgmpu.jpg

#3 8 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

johnwartjr here on the forums can burn EPROMs.
http://www.thatpinballplace.com/eproms/index.htm
You could also burn your own EPROMs with a burner using the ROMs from the ipdb page for your game.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Burning_EPROMS
ebay.com link » Gq 4x True Usb Programmer Eprom Uv Eraser Adp 054 16 Bit Eprom Adapter
http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=760
You may need to re-jumper the board to accommodate the replacement EPROMs
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Jumper.2FROM_Info

Excellent, thank you very much.

I think $17 spent on those chips is a good place to start, considering U2 is highly suspect.

Based on the chart in that jumper link:

2732 2732 E1-2, 3-5, 6-7, 8-10

I'll need to clip the E3 - E4 jumper and reconnect from E3 to E5, the other jumpers are already properly set. I can manage that.

#4 8 years ago

If 12v is present on the mpu, no LED action might be flicker and no flash. The really old LEDs on sometimes do not show the flicker and you may just be seeing the POST failure indication of no 1st flash (bad u2 typically).

That is a -17 MPU. The best thing you can do is do the single 2732 @ U2 combo. Jumper info is on pinwiki. John Wart should be able to burn this combo ROM for you.

Whatever you do, replacement EPROMs will require jumper changes, trace cuts, and small patches on the -17 MPU.

#5 8 years ago

I have fooled around with enough-17 boards to say, unless it's cherry, dump it.
Barak, I never did get the one going that we played with last year.

#6 8 years ago
Quoted from Validpowerdetect:

I have fooled around with enough-17 boards to say, unless it's cherry, dump it.
Barak, I never did get the one going that we played with last year.

These boards are repairable, especially if there's no battery damage.

#7 8 years ago
Quoted from keenerb:

I don't know what else in the game may or may not be working; it's hard to justify dropping $200 on a new modern MPU without knowing the status of the other boards/solenoids/etc.

Your MPU shows battery damage, that was repaired along the bottom, so who knows what the back looks like.

I assume your other boards don't have any alkaline damage, and thus are routine repairs.

You could buy the modern MPU, and then have your current one repaired at your leisure.

Here is a crash course on Bally board repair/bulletproofing :

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing

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