All Mirco playfields will require you to drill out the post holes. Mylar i would say no but Cliffy's is your own thoughts. Some playfields the clear will chip around the holes so you might as well put them on.

Typically you'd wanna drill top to bottom to reduce burrs on the topside. I'd suspect this is how you'd wanna do it, but I've never done this on clear coated wood before either. In any case I'd wanna make sure I used a sharp or new drill bit.

Drill from the top, and use a sharp brad-tip drill bit to get as clean a hole as possible and minimize clear coat chips.

Just curious. What is the advantage of using a brad-tip drill bit when drilling out an existing hole? I understand when drilling a fresh hole - the brad-tip helps keep the bit from "wandering".

I've seen recommendations for smaller protectors, such as these (scroll down):

http://www.mantisamusements.com/sttng.htm

Cliffy hole protectors are designed to both protect the hole's edges as well as hide typical damage that may have accumulated already. Since you have no damage to cover up, the smaller protectors are just intended to prevent the hole damage from starting.

Or, that's the logic of it, anyway. I don't think there's been a long-term/high-plays comparison on them yet.

Gl on the swap. Sttng has a lot going on... Mines got a nice playfield but the thought has crossed my mind to pick up a playfield while they are still available. I'd put a nice wax coat on it and apply Mylar in the factory spots. It's prolly not needed at ALL but with all the effort a playfield swap takes its cheap insurance in keeping it nice.

I am no expert, but if you are enlarging a hole in slightest amount, you should use the sharp brad tip because it will cut through the Clearcoat around the circumference of the enlarged hole clean and reduce chances of chipping or lifting up the PF clear. Just my opinion from experience.

drill all the holes first. I also took a forstner to clean out any impressions that were for top side t-nuts, not sure if STTNG has any though.
Also check for clearance when installing slingshot kicker arms so they don't hit the front of their slots.

As for mylar, I put a piece under ramp flaps were the flap meets the playfield. That edge over time will scrape of dig into the playfield.

I also put mylar at drops.

As far as protectors I use Mantis protectors for holes when available, if not a Cliffy is a must for any holes.

These are great tips. (No pun intended.)

I have a new Mirco FH playfield to install. Would you mind sharing what size brad point bit you use for post holes and what size forstner you use for the t-nuts?

Thanks

honestly cannot remember. Sorry. Go as close as you can on diameter to the post shaft. Forstner was whatever matched Mirco's holes.

If doing an AFM playfield and using a Mantis protecter there is a good chance you will have to open up the SOL hole. It's not bad but to do but better to do it before it is populated.

Ah, ok I think I see it now. The brad point drill bits have points at the edge as well as the point in the middle. So with the Mirco playfield are you really just using the drill bit to remove clear from inside the hole, or is the hole being enlarged a bit also?

For sure Mylar under drops, around pops, and any other high wear locations.

Unfortunately, most holes where posts should go have to be drilled out with a slightly larger bit.

As I have gone through the same steps as you have, please refrain from drilling directly the through clearcoat layer regardless of the sharpness of the bit. It can and will happen that the clearcoat cracks or gets nicks in it. What I found very handy is putting the drill in reverse, and scrape off the clearcoat layer first. After you are through that, continue with the drill normally in forward.

Maybe try it first on a couple of holes that are out of sight or under the apron to get a feel of it.

I would install a cliffy at least in the NZ scoop, maybe a mylar between poppers and the right orbit where the ball exits the shooter habitrail. Another idea might be to install a makrolon playfield protector, if you can get it. These are very thin playfield-sized protectors that are placed over the playfield. We've installed a couple of these, and they are *very* nice.

this

Here is a recommendation from CPR regarding drilling into clearcoat from their PF installation web page: This is focused on drilling starter or pilot holes for screws, not so much for enlarging PF metal post holes: http://www.classicplayfields.com/vote.html: There is also a video on their page.

Drilling_into_Clearcoat_(resized).png

Are there any current sources for STTNG repo playfields?

STTNG will look stunning when you are done! Have a wh2o mirco to do sometime myself!

http://www.highclasspinballs.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=626

Mirco

Use a SHARP, BRAND NEW brad point bit and just scribe a circle in the clear coat (you can turn the bit by hand).

The cracks will end at the circle, and be hidden under the post.

I have used these and they are excellent but not cheap. They should be stored properly, not thrown in bottom of tool bag.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=42352&cat=1,180,42240