Quoted from ledge:
that was my issue. i spent hours trying to decide which ones. too many choices !
It is a tough line.....I hear from people that say too many to pick from, that the same amount of emails, from people that want more.
Ill be working on a graphical reference to help. Its all about brightness, thats right for an individual.
To me, its no different then going into Lowes or Home depot and looking for a lightbulb.
There is an entire wall. Where is it going? How bright do you want?I think once one finds their baseline, which
is and may still be a standard 5050 SMD......what is in all the kits, and the workhorse, then one should use that, simple simple, and chose a few brighter bulbs to increase the brightness in the dark areas.
However, the games you buy today from Stern, break those rules.
For years, the posts have said, "Only frosted in GI", yet the last four games from Stern are Clear and brighter!
For some, this does hurt their eyes. For others, they will continue to use kits, or frosted, in complete opposite to the
new game they just got.
So the emails come in to make the brightest bulb...we did and have our 2 patented Op-Max.
Then it was to bring in the Non Ghosting, no Flickering Super Flux, we did with our Optix.
Next was, "I need the 2 LED bulb that was used in the first release of AC/DC...we love them, and use them everywhere, can you get those?" Done, and colors coming.
OK, but that doesnt match Metallica, or Star Trek, so we added those yesterday.
This was followed with, Too bright to the eyes, so we made the fluted dome.
I hope the graphical brightness chart and additional info will help tremendously.
In short, the easiest way to decide, is to see what finished games you find that you like.
If Star Trek or Metallica is too bright, then buy one level lower, or frosted of the same.
If you have or have played a game with a standard kit, or frosted 5050, and want it brighter, move one step in that
There are 2 schools of thought, I hope to share better on the site.
One, is to use the same brightness of bulb everywhere....what comes in a kit...
In many games, this is perfect, Funhouse, as an example...everything even.
The other philosophy, says this is nice, but not bright enough to play in the dark.
In cases like that, a kit from James at Pinballbulbs, offers a great solution, by adding strips and spots.
Everything is lit from the top down. Quite Nice, with a type of look.
The Third way is to light the game with a variety of brightness. A less bright bulb under a smaller plastic, a brighter bulb, where it is buried in the back and not enough light. This philosophy adds depth of field...light and shadows,
and lights the game from the artwork up, rather then the top down.
The analogy. An office building, with all fluorescent overhead lighting, vs, how you light your home, with different wattage, and lamps and corners. We dont light our houses, in general with all ceiling mounted fluorescent tubes.
Both work, it is personal taste.
So to wade through the variety...find your baseline...The 90% of the bulbs you will use..in order....2 LED,, 5050 SMD, 2 SMD, 2835 SMD, Op Max. and try out $20-$25 in bulbs that are brighter, and if you see small areas, a few less bright. I believe having a small assortment will help in any future game, and allow you to test the joys of getting the back corners lit by simply adding 2 bulbs.
If you want it simple, use our universal kit...150 bulbs for $99....and free shipping....enough to complete many games or come close.
They can be tailored by you to your game. They are with the most popular 5050 SMD, and all you need to do is match colors. Very Easy. At worst, you may need a few more, or then gamble on a few brighter bulbs.
Thats the simple easy way.
If you need a game specific kit, CT, PBB, and others do that with perfection.
Sorry to ramble on...its just I get so many creative pictures, about what people have done, I think it more like decorating a Christmas tree. Do I want mine to look the same as everyone elses? then buy the standard 5050 kit, or loose....nothing wrong at all.
Do I want it easy, and yet different? Use the same 5050, and add a little extra...color change, Op-max in your spots...a no flix optix, for that insert ghosting.
Want to be completely different? Step out of the box, try the fluted domes, add a couple Op-Max....you can mix bulb types, and paint a really one of a kind lighting effect for your game...
Oh, and dont forget the 6.3V strips....a must for your outlanes, VUK, back of game, dark long plastic areas.
You can light your art from below, or from above. Almost infinite possibilities here.
Sorry for the rant...I get so passionate about the results I see and do, and want to share.....I hope to make it a little easier.....