Our New Products have started coming in!

First we have the New Black Platinum Series!

Made with black plastic, a chrome finish and swiveling heads these bulbs can be used anywhere for their unique swivel lighting, or where visible for a professional chrome finishing touch. Create your own mods and angle your bulbs to where you want them!

Black Platinum Composite-734.JPG

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/blackplat.htm

Our Fluted Domes have started to arrive. These bulbs have twin 2835 SMDs, which are the same size and lumens of bulbs used in AC/DC, Metallica and Star Trek. All this is under a bullet fluted dome. This spreads the light further and is easier on the eyes. It can be used in all applications from inserts to GI.

They quickly have become my New Favorite for GI! More colors coming!

2 SMD Fluted Bullet-532.JPG

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smdfd.htm

Here are some comparison shots in my TZ

2 SMD FLUTED DOME WW-530.JPG
2 SMD FLUTED DOME B-414.JPG
2 SMD FLUTED DOME G-274.JPG
2 SMD FLUTED DOME NW-922.JPG
2 SMD FLUTED DOME R-932.JPG

The Ice Blue, maybe in todays shipment in a single 5050 clear, and frosted..... Op-Max, in about 10 days.
Unfortunately, the chip manufacturers in Taiwan and Singapore have no demand for Ice blue in a 2835 SMD.
There is no Purple, or Cyan. Too new, and no automotive or other electronic demand, So they may take an order for 100,000 units, which I need to pass on now.
Over time, especially if I bug several factories, who will ping the same large group of chip makers, they will do, as it will appear there is a bigger demand, seeing several factories "asking"

i may need to do the fluted dome on a 5050 in Ice blue, if nothing comes up....

Bump for the evening crowd, and because I have a problem...I am a karma whore, and want to see a 2, as the first number...Ill never catch Ted.

With my apologies, I am not able to visualize what you want to accomplish.
The fluted Dome, is designed for 70% of its light side to side, in a cross hatch pattern of greater distance.
If you wish to PM me, with a photo, Id be happy to help.
Essentially, all the products I have are about brightness, direction, and distance of throw, so I am confident,
I will have something that will work for you, and blend the brightness to your taste and the rest of the game.

Not very well at all. Minimal top throw, so a short fuzzy ball of light.
If a spotlight is close to an object, you want to light, say the heads on Roadshow, whatever bulb is used, there is only about a 10% difference.
If however, it is a spotlight going a longer distance, say on a sling across the playfield, like Xmen or WOZ,
and you want the most amount of light, I cant recommend highley enough the 6.3V or 12V unrectified Op-Max.
It literally lights the whole playfield, as well as actually behind itself....(Other then a reflector blocking some of it)
For anyone needing spots, as I move the site to add more pictures and videos, trust me on this...try the Op-Max.

If you want the brightest, but not the widest or longest throw...a shorter spot, and simply bright is number one. Our Quasar will win out, as it is not diffused by the lens.

12V for Woz, Xmen Magneto, etc.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/opmax12v.htmhttp://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/opmax12v.htm

6.3V unrectified for spots:
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/opmax-nr.htm

Quasar:
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2-5630smd.htm

Thanks for the suggestion. I would hope you would visit my site, and find the prices low enough, and free shipping.
As these are new, found no where else, I would hope a few cents a bulb, isnt all that you are in need of.
I hate to run "fake" sales, and hopefully my time is worth something to continue to develop products for the gang.

Art

i hope to add more new products today, and for those that are asking....yes, the last shipment, it weighs a ton, will have the RGB strips, Bumper Rings, and ICE Blue...just a little longer....

the housing wont fit on a Standard bayonet bulb base.
Id need to spend another 5K for a new die, and the original purpose and order for these was for wedge, that absorbed the development cost. They were made for a customer in Japan. Not pinball though.
I am trying to find a way to do just the 3 hooded in bayonet, if possible...but it will take time, as this took 6 months to develop.....

My thoughts are in agreement with both. A flex head can give you more exacting lighting...but doesnt look as nice.

The Black Platinum could work, but they are not yet in 44/47.

3 choices would be standard 5050 frosted...White, Purple, or even ICE BLUE, which will be in shortly.
Another would be the FLUTED DOME, in white or Blue...this chip is not yet available in Purple.
...and lastly is a 2 LED, softer then a 5050 in clear or frosted, White or Blue, as the purple looks pink in a resin diode, and generally not wanted.....

art

I am not sure if I am following, but the connection on this model to 555, would require a new model made to attach to a metal base. New Molds, can be either expensive and take time, or cost nothing and be fast, if I order 10,000 pieces.
At this time, I dont see a need for 10,000, but I will continue to "hound" factory to help absorb the cost,,,,,,

Sorry....

no problem...I am confused all the time!

.....another New Bulb going up soon.....and more.......

The Links will go up tomorrow for $.65/25 and $.59/100. If you order any now in this Round number, we will refund the difference, or simply catch us tomorrow.

The clear and frosted versions are up now.

I am sorry, the lens are not removable....I think they would be too bright, and we have them, as above, in clear and frosted.

It is a tough line.....I hear from people that say too many to pick from, that the same amount of emails, from people that want more.

Ill be working on a graphical reference to help. Its all about brightness, thats right for an individual.

To me, its no different then going into Lowes or Home depot and looking for a lightbulb.
There is an entire wall. Where is it going? How bright do you want?I think once one finds their baseline, which
is and may still be a standard 5050 SMD......what is in all the kits, and the workhorse, then one should use that, simple simple, and chose a few brighter bulbs to increase the brightness in the dark areas.

However, the games you buy today from Stern, break those rules.
For years, the posts have said, "Only frosted in GI", yet the last four games from Stern are Clear and brighter!
For some, this does hurt their eyes. For others, they will continue to use kits, or frosted, in complete opposite to the
new game they just got.

So the emails come in to make the brightest bulb...we did and have our 2 patented Op-Max.
Then it was to bring in the Non Ghosting, no Flickering Super Flux, we did with our Optix.
Next was, "I need the 2 LED bulb that was used in the first release of AC/DC...we love them, and use them everywhere, can you get those?" Done, and colors coming.
OK, but that doesnt match Metallica, or Star Trek, so we added those yesterday.
This was followed with, Too bright to the eyes, so we made the fluted dome.

Catch 22...

I hope the graphical brightness chart and additional info will help tremendously.

In short, the easiest way to decide, is to see what finished games you find that you like.

If Star Trek or Metallica is too bright, then buy one level lower, or frosted of the same.
If you have or have played a game with a standard kit, or frosted 5050, and want it brighter, move one step in that
direction.

There are 2 schools of thought, I hope to share better on the site.
One, is to use the same brightness of bulb everywhere....what comes in a kit...
In many games, this is perfect, Funhouse, as an example...everything even.

The other philosophy, says this is nice, but not bright enough to play in the dark.
In cases like that, a kit from James at Pinballbulbs, offers a great solution, by adding strips and spots.
Everything is lit from the top down. Quite Nice, with a type of look.

The Third way is to light the game with a variety of brightness. A less bright bulb under a smaller plastic, a brighter bulb, where it is buried in the back and not enough light. This philosophy adds depth of field...light and shadows,
and lights the game from the artwork up, rather then the top down.

The analogy. An office building, with all fluorescent overhead lighting, vs, how you light your home, with different wattage, and lamps and corners. We dont light our houses, in general with all ceiling mounted fluorescent tubes.

Both work, it is personal taste.

So to wade through the variety...find your baseline...The 90% of the bulbs you will use..in order....2 LED,, 5050 SMD, 2 SMD, 2835 SMD, Op Max. and try out $20-$25 in bulbs that are brighter, and if you see small areas, a few less bright. I believe having a small assortment will help in any future game, and allow you to test the joys of getting the back corners lit by simply adding 2 bulbs.

If you want it simple, use our universal kit...150 bulbs for $99....and free shipping....enough to complete many games or come close.
They can be tailored by you to your game. They are with the most popular 5050 SMD, and all you need to do is match colors. Very Easy. At worst, you may need a few more, or then gamble on a few brighter bulbs.
Thats the simple easy way.

If you need a game specific kit, CT, PBB, and others do that with perfection.

Sorry to ramble on...its just I get so many creative pictures, about what people have done, I think it more like decorating a Christmas tree. Do I want mine to look the same as everyone elses? then buy the standard 5050 kit, or loose....nothing wrong at all.
Do I want it easy, and yet different? Use the same 5050, and add a little extra...color change, Op-max in your spots...a no flix optix, for that insert ghosting.

Want to be completely different? Step out of the box, try the fluted domes, add a couple Op-Max....you can mix bulb types, and paint a really one of a kind lighting effect for your game...

Oh, and dont forget the 6.3V strips....a must for your outlanes, VUK, back of game, dark long plastic areas.
You can light your art from below, or from above. Almost infinite possibilities here.

Sorry for the rant...I get so passionate about the results I see and do, and want to share.....I hope to make it a little easier.....

Art

The 6.3V dedicated color strips, 3 SMD and 7 SMD, come in white Purple, Blue, Red, and Green...(although I am waiting on red) They are shipped with 3 choices of attachment. a 555 wedge, 44/47 bayonet, and alligator clips.
I mostly use the socketed ones in Back box. but others, will use in GI.
The alligator clips let you grab power from any 6.3V source. If you want them on all the time, then use the GI, if you want additional light/color as a highlight, clip to a feature insert, like having your outhole flash when Jackpot is lit,
or lighting up a ramp, when extra ball, or other feature lamp is lit.

Also, i am truly hoping, that yesterdays export with have these same strips, and pads in RGB color changing.
With an inline remote....no batteries, nothing to lose, you can set one of 20 colors, 5 brightness, and special affects, fade/blink..... These are going to be beyond anyones expectations for creative use!

Pop bumper LED rings, different, better...and more....!!!

strip.jpg

Hey Paul,

You should be the first to get a new RGB strip...maybe today....sorry the clips arent there its a proto...
I look forward to hearing you smile!

The newest RGB ones will have an optional 48" connector, and the top side wiring will be covered in black...hopefully that will help.

I like the pants buttons! I may do red...., just gotta catch up on costs for all the other new stuff first...
cant wait for the next shipment!
Lets see if I can get some more pics of these in games this weekend......I have heard from customers that the fluted
domes kick butt in a backbox, so I gotta give it a shot.

Indeed, if you are trying to use newer Sterns, there is insulation on the lugs to pull back.
What I wish to share, is the alligator clips, do allow you to move a light MOD around and test,
it is best, if one settles on a permanent use to solder to the light source, to avoid any accidental
shorting. It is a personal choice.
Terry at Pinball Rehab also suggested this product, which I have yet to personally try....but seems to be a great
solution for many mods, a no cut splice!

http://www.amazon.com/Solderless-Wire-Quick-Splice-Connector/dp/B0041PF5QY

Thanks Paul for the Help.

Heat is interesting. With a Infrared Thermal gun, it measures the same as an incandescent, a few degrees more
then a standard 5050. Because, we measure heat, with our fingertips, we do so, be gripping it in two fingers. We dont do that with many hot things. We know, not to pick up a lit cigarette, or something off the stove.
So we feel temperature different, on one finger flat, vs two, one on each side.
I keep doing the same, and going, thats "hot" but the digital temperature still shows, an acceptable range.

Do these come in different sizes? Where else can I find them, I never tried them before.....

Wow! Thanks! any chance you might have pictures to share?

I have tested the fluted dome, in only a couple games, in a couple of areas, to be sold.

This bulb took some work to get done. Small story.
Blondetall, and a few others were looking for narrow throated bulbs, for Gottliebs, so they could be inserted from underneath. Our standard 5050 would not fit, and when I, myself received a Gottlied, (1812), I had to check out what I could do. I found 3 different GI hole sizes in my game, and two different socket heights...Well, I found I could get my 5050 in one, but the bulb barely poked its head out. I learned other vendors narrowed their width, and tested that, which was a little better, but I wanted different! So, I started testing. I loved the 2 SMD faceted...the light throw was great, but the top being clear, didnt work always. So we made a round faceted bulb, and sent out tests...it was OK, but still not as tall as I wanted. (4 months there) I want to a high lumen cylinder, that produced too harsh a light...fail. Then was a faceted sides and top, but that too was almost it, and I liked, but some the guys here in Florida, did not. Finally, we realized, we needed the height of a regular bullet LED, the faceting of the sides, like the 2 round, and a higher Lumen, to brighten the whole length. I want through a few prototypes of these, to reach the bulb you see now. I am pleased.

I hope to have them with pictures in an Earthshaker this weekend to share... I feel I will be even more blown away, and to now hear from theshamegovernor that they look good in an EM?!?!...I gotta see too! thats Amazing!

As a side note, all our newest production on standard 5050 SMD and 2835 SMD, are now narrow throated to 11mm, to fit all those narrow holes...be sure to ask if you need, as both are in stock.

The rest of the new stuff, I am told, will finally arrive this week.

Art

Hi Derek!

This is the link for the fluted domes....which will fit

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smdfd.htm

and this is for the same SMD, different lns, of clear and frosted....the clear would be the same as Str Trek, Metallica, and AC/DC.

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm

Art

Greetings Pac Fan,

Ill do my best to answer.

Regarding bulb size and light impact.

We have had many requests for a narrow bulb to fit narrow drilled games.
There is inconsistency in drill hole sizes, across several years and manufacturers, like Gottlieb.
To accommodate this need, we are changing to 11mm. Yes, this will impact its appearance
a little bit. We therefore offer a 2 LED the lower illumination, a 5050, the most popular, and a twin 2835.
An attempt to control any greater accuracy and dome thickness, would require production from Taiwan, Singapore, or Malaysia. Unfortunately, this would result in bulbs costing 2X to 2.5X more in price.
So, I respect your eyes, and desire for ultimate perfection, but with my apologies, I cant promise that from lightbulbs
at this price.

With regard to warm white, and color variations. I cant begin to tell you the hours, the hand sampling, the returns, and debated to achieve as close to possible, 100%, 500 degree Kelvin control.
All/most bulbs you might likely find in SMD, are using chips from Singapore. They offer only a 1000 degree Kelvin control. So, yes, that variety can exist. It may be present more in one production then the next, from me or another
vendor. Why? Open market, People controlling color, not machines, competition for prices, with no ability to charge more....The only solution to your tolerance needs, (and mine...I am no different) is to hand match.
Something China, at 60 hour work weeks, $.14 an hour can only do so good at...it hurts ones eyes to try to do this all day.
I found one factory using an electronic method of scanning Kelvin within 200 degrees to sort, but a 5050 SMD, in 10,000 units cost me over $2.00.

Of course, if you are unhappy with your purchase, please do return. We dont want that.
But since we share some of the same factories, and chip suppliers, I do respect that you buy where you feel best
to meet those needs. With my apologies, the warms I see coming out today have this variety.

We are introducing in SMD a third color, our sunlight, with a Kelvin range between warm and natural, and that may be for you.

Think of a paint chart at Lowes, and how many varieties of "white" there are....In bulbs, other than natural, the exact hue of "cream: touch of "yellow" "pink" or other shade is all up to the mixing of powder, and it seems that 1000 degrees is the range.

I try to stay away from the comparison of warm white between vendors, as it seems, there is no exact answer,
to gain if that shade is not right for you. Please return them. If Sunlight, is not the right shade, I dont know else to be of help.

Our Op-Max, also comes in 3 shades of white, with the same variation.
As a completely new and different bulb for you and many people, the inherent color at the source of light, and the lens, is a different hue at that point, before it spreads out, therefore, "appearing darker" at the bulb source.

Since you have a keen eye for white, and can discern this, again, I can only offer what I can, and hope it pleases you.

With regard to the fluted domes.

The only bulb that will not spot is frosted. Period. As this has a heavy dome at the top, it is not prone to spotting,
but does depend on the artwork and screen printing process by that company, at that time.
...and it is not always predictable. Today, I tried them in Earthshaker, and I had a small white dot, approx 2.5mm,
In Roadshow, in a similar light artwork, I had none.
Like anything else, I dont know what games people will use them for, or the art screening.
Let alone reproduction plastics over time.
But I do appreciate you sharing, and it will be noted here and for all...that any bulb, other then frosted, may have
spotting possible based on the game.

I am sorry our products, did not leave you with a 100% positive result, so please do return anything you are not happy with, and support the vendor that does meet your satisfaction.

Art

Oh, I didnt take it as an insult or complaint....My apologies if I suggested such.

I think it is more about what happens in emails that dont get seen, it builds up, and I vented
here on the warm white issue,

The warm white discussion has been hard for me, because of course, you and everyone are right, and I can be my own worst customer!

I truly wish I had a better answer. I can get 5000 in in one batch that are great, and the next batch suffers, or changes.
Factories, and I mean 3 different, in 3 very different parts of China, all say the same thing.
Issues and money in Singapore. If I want to pay more, they will be more consistant,
I dont really believe that, but everything has gone up, and I cant see a 50% increase in just warm white.
I have to believe they will hear me, you, and other vendors across Europe, and do better...I hope.

So my apologies for being defensive, it is more an issue of addressing this behind the scenes, then it is directly what you shared.

I do, however want you genuinely to be happy. and I will do everything I can to try to achieve this.
It is more about me feeling a bit of a failure on the warm white issue, then anything else.

Again, my apologies for being rude or disrespectful.

I dont often share personal stuff, but with my brother battling stage 4 cancer, and my health issues, I have been a "grumpy" oldpinguy.

Ignoring me is what my wife does. I hope it might be OK to suggest this if I am "off" at times.
They are changing my meds again, and count your blessing if you have good health, and are not a pharmaceutical
guinea pig. More tests, and they will see if they have to cut me open again, and I hate that.

Please do accept my sincere apologies.

We are testing our next run, with just the tip of the fluted dome frosted....I think this little touch will make it perfect!

Unfortunately this specific chip, isnt produced in purple, however, We are putting this lens on a 5050 in purple....
It should still be sweet!

My suggestions are based on what customers have shared.

It does depend a bit on the other bulbs you use in a game, and your brightness tolerance.

But in no order...

The most common, a clear or frosted 5050:

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050.htm

Next, has been a favorite of those that have tried...Our 6 LED Crystal Fan...
It lights upward and downward at a 45 degree angle.

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/6smdfan.htm

and more recently, if it in your taste, LED Bumper rings:

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/bmpring.htm

I hope this helps.

Art

So sorry, Only pictures.....Not enough time to get it all done.....Maybe someone can post a video..it looks the same in pictures....

Ill look into.....

Nice Idea!

Your ears must have been burning, I had this discussion with Martin, from pinball news, last night, about a strip needed in the trough for glow balls...

As always the best ideas come from you guys!

Thursday around midnight...