I like the pants buttons! I may do red...., just gotta catch up on costs for all the other new stuff first...
cant wait for the next shipment!
Lets see if I can get some more pics of these in games this weekend......I have heard from customers that the fluted
domes kick butt in a backbox, so I gotta give it a shot.
Quoted from Rock914:Not a problem if you are familiar with gels or transparent vinyl. I use those products for the eyes in my T2's along with some pants buttons here is a pic.
I was thinking the exact same thing. May try it.
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:I like the pants buttons! I may do red
Red pants buttons. 
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:Thanks everyone who posted - (group hug!)
Mustang Paul I'll check out your thread - thanks again!
So I can alligator clip them to a GI bulb and it lites up and stays lit? Can't be any simpler than that!
Nate
With the newer Stern games, are people having to peel back the black shrink tape in order to clip to the power source of the light (GI or otherwise)?
Indeed, if you are trying to use newer Sterns, there is insulation on the lugs to pull back.
What I wish to share, is the alligator clips, do allow you to move a light MOD around and test,
it is best, if one settles on a permanent use to solder to the light source, to avoid any accidental
shorting. It is a personal choice.
Terry at Pinball Rehab also suggested this product, which I have yet to personally try....but seems to be a great
solution for many mods, a no cut splice!
http://www.amazon.com/Solderless-Wire-Quick-Splice-Connector/dp/B0041PF5QY
Holy criminy! That's brilliant!
Btw Art, I notice the optiMax generates some real heat. Is that to be expected?
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Terry at Pinball Rehab also suggested this product, which I have yet to personally try....but seems to be a great
solution for many mods, a no cut splice!amazon.com link »
I use those all the time, I get them for 10 cents apiece but for the strips I just use the alligator clips that come with the strips. Never had a short yet.
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:Btw Art, I notice the optiMax generates some real heat. Is that to be expected?
The heat is normal, they put out A LOT of light for such a small bulb.
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:Btw Art, I notice the optiMax generates some real heat. Is that to be expected?
Thanks Paul for the Help.
Heat is interesting. With a Infrared Thermal gun, it measures the same as an incandescent, a few degrees more
then a standard 5050. Because, we measure heat, with our fingertips, we do so, be gripping it in two fingers. We dont do that with many hot things. We know, not to pick up a lit cigarette, or something off the stove.
So we feel temperature different, on one finger flat, vs two, one on each side.
I keep doing the same, and going, thats "hot" but the digital temperature still shows, an acceptable range.
Quoted from MustangPaul:I use those all the time, I get them for 10 cents apiece but for the strips I just use the alligator clips that come with the strips. Never had a short yet.
Do these come in different sizes? Where else can I find them, I never tried them before.....
I get mine at a local surplus store called Axe Man. The red ones are good for 18 - 22 gauge, blues are for 14 - 18 I think. At 10 cents each it's a steal. They can be reused also just pry them open and push the metal splicer back up.
I just helped shop a Gottlieb Jungle Queen today, and we tried the new warm white fluted dome bulbs just to see how they looked.
I was really, really impressed. The color is spot-on, the light throw is great, and they are not blinding at all. I truly do not like LEDs in EMs, but I have to say - I think the fluted domes are a winner, especially for GI.
Great stuff, Art.
Wow! Thanks! any chance you might have pictures to share?
I have tested the fluted dome, in only a couple games, in a couple of areas, to be sold.
This bulb took some work to get done. Small story.
Blondetall, and a few others were looking for narrow throated bulbs, for Gottliebs, so they could be inserted from underneath. Our standard 5050 would not fit, and when I, myself received a Gottlied, (1812), I had to check out what I could do. I found 3 different GI hole sizes in my game, and two different socket heights...Well, I found I could get my 5050 in one, but the bulb barely poked its head out. I learned other vendors narrowed their width, and tested that, which was a little better, but I wanted different! So, I started testing. I loved the 2 SMD faceted...the light throw was great, but the top being clear, didnt work always. So we made a round faceted bulb, and sent out tests...it was OK, but still not as tall as I wanted. (4 months there) I want to a high lumen cylinder, that produced too harsh a light...fail. Then was a faceted sides and top, but that too was almost it, and I liked, but some the guys here in Florida, did not. Finally, we realized, we needed the height of a regular bullet LED, the faceting of the sides, like the 2 round, and a higher Lumen, to brighten the whole length. I want through a few prototypes of these, to reach the bulb you see now. I am pleased.
I hope to have them with pictures in an Earthshaker this weekend to share... I feel I will be even more blown away, and to now hear from theshamegovernor that they look good in an EM?!?!...I gotta see too! thats Amazing!
As a side note, all our newest production on standard 5050 SMD and 2835 SMD, are now narrow throated to 11mm, to fit all those narrow holes...be sure to ask if you need, as both are in stock.
The rest of the new stuff, I am told, will finally arrive this week.
Art
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Finally, we realized, we needed the height of a regular bullet LED, the faceting of the sides, like the 2 round, and a higher Lumen, to brighten the whole length. I want through a few prototypes of these, to reach the bulb you see now. I am pleased.
^^^GREAT news Art! Which ones are the best ones for my narrow holed NASCAR? Whatever ones you think are best, throw me a link so I can click on it and order a bunch.
As always, thanks. 
Hi Derek!
This is the link for the fluted domes....which will fit
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smdfd.htm
and this is for the same SMD, different lns, of clear and frosted....the clear would be the same as Str Trek, Metallica, and AC/DC.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm
Art
Thanks Art. I'm going to hit that link up and place a nice big order now.
You da man! 
Done! I'll be sure to take some pics and send them to you Art. I plan on putting these in NASCAR and Hurricane. 
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:As a side note, all our newest production on standard 5050 SMD and 2835 SMD, are now narrow throated to 11mm, to fit all those narrow holes...be sure to ask if you need, as both are in stock.
Yeah, my friend just ordered a 300 lot of the 5050's in frosted dome, and we had a pain of a time getting some of them into a Taxi Playfield GI around the slings. Didn't realize that you'd have a different size available so soon. Will remember for the next order to make it easier. Is the dome thinner plastic and distribute light differently? The CT switchover to narrower definitely impacted it -- it was a bit less less side throw but also brighter due to thinner plastic, pluses and minuses for sure.
Also, I noted that the lot of WW bayonets we got were significantly yellow (closer to 2700K than 3000K+). More so than any CT or PBB ones I've tried before. Those were a little less yellow or actually some CT had a really nice, as best described, "cream" color to them; but still far from your natural whites. I know you stated the warm whites can vary in color temp on the web page. Would be awesome if you could offer two options based on color temp, but I'm sure like with CT, sometimes they can vary in a single 100 lot bag from the factory anyway and would require individual testing.
As a related note, I ordered a single Optimus Maximus just to test to see what it was about (realizing I probably would never sink $2 a bulb into GI when I typically stay with the 26c/59c ones in 95% of the places). I was amazed at the lighting, but also it seemed to have a very harsh yellow tinge especially on the tip due to the diffusion plastic. It was just unexpected, but makes sense given the current color temps of the smds.
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:This bulb took some work to get done.
I had him order me one of these new 69c fluted dome ones. I had 4 spots (8 lamps) in my F14 without LEDs yet -- the below playfield incandescents hiding behind the TOM/CAT 123/456 around the lower center. Frosted LED and clear dome LEDs only created a hot spot on the top and didn't light much around the targets. Hoping one of the fluted will come close to making it look okay, but haven't tried it yet.
Thanks for another new option to try, at a reasonable price for perhaps certain targeted areas!
Edit: I see you got the double 2835 frosted's in too right after we ordered. Dang, would have liked to try those to compare to a 5050 frosted. The dual LED ones were way too dim. Will pick up on the next order though!
Greetings Pac Fan,
Ill do my best to answer.
Regarding bulb size and light impact.
We have had many requests for a narrow bulb to fit narrow drilled games.
There is inconsistency in drill hole sizes, across several years and manufacturers, like Gottlieb.
To accommodate this need, we are changing to 11mm. Yes, this will impact its appearance
a little bit. We therefore offer a 2 LED the lower illumination, a 5050, the most popular, and a twin 2835.
An attempt to control any greater accuracy and dome thickness, would require production from Taiwan, Singapore, or Malaysia. Unfortunately, this would result in bulbs costing 2X to 2.5X more in price.
So, I respect your eyes, and desire for ultimate perfection, but with my apologies, I cant promise that from lightbulbs
at this price.
With regard to warm white, and color variations. I cant begin to tell you the hours, the hand sampling, the returns, and debated to achieve as close to possible, 100%, 500 degree Kelvin control.
All/most bulbs you might likely find in SMD, are using chips from Singapore. They offer only a 1000 degree Kelvin control. So, yes, that variety can exist. It may be present more in one production then the next, from me or another
vendor. Why? Open market, People controlling color, not machines, competition for prices, with no ability to charge more....The only solution to your tolerance needs, (and mine...I am no different) is to hand match.
Something China, at 60 hour work weeks, $.14 an hour can only do so good at...it hurts ones eyes to try to do this all day.
I found one factory using an electronic method of scanning Kelvin within 200 degrees to sort, but a 5050 SMD, in 10,000 units cost me over $2.00.
Of course, if you are unhappy with your purchase, please do return. We dont want that.
But since we share some of the same factories, and chip suppliers, I do respect that you buy where you feel best
to meet those needs. With my apologies, the warms I see coming out today have this variety.
We are introducing in SMD a third color, our sunlight, with a Kelvin range between warm and natural, and that may be for you.
Think of a paint chart at Lowes, and how many varieties of "white" there are....In bulbs, other than natural, the exact hue of "cream: touch of "yellow" "pink" or other shade is all up to the mixing of powder, and it seems that 1000 degrees is the range.
I try to stay away from the comparison of warm white between vendors, as it seems, there is no exact answer,
to gain if that shade is not right for you. Please return them. If Sunlight, is not the right shade, I dont know else to be of help.
Our Op-Max, also comes in 3 shades of white, with the same variation.
As a completely new and different bulb for you and many people, the inherent color at the source of light, and the lens, is a different hue at that point, before it spreads out, therefore, "appearing darker" at the bulb source.
Since you have a keen eye for white, and can discern this, again, I can only offer what I can, and hope it pleases you.
With regard to the fluted domes.
The only bulb that will not spot is frosted. Period. As this has a heavy dome at the top, it is not prone to spotting,
but does depend on the artwork and screen printing process by that company, at that time.
...and it is not always predictable. Today, I tried them in Earthshaker, and I had a small white dot, approx 2.5mm,
In Roadshow, in a similar light artwork, I had none.
Like anything else, I dont know what games people will use them for, or the art screening.
Let alone reproduction plastics over time.
But I do appreciate you sharing, and it will be noted here and for all...that any bulb, other then frosted, may have
spotting possible based on the game.
I am sorry our products, did not leave you with a 100% positive result, so please do return anything you are not happy with, and support the vendor that does meet your satisfaction.
Art
Art --
We've talked in other threads and PM, and I've said this before: Please don't take any of my comments as a "complaint" against your products (I hope they weren't worded that way!!). They are just rather "observations" and that's why I don't go order 100+ of a bulb before I test in case they won't work for my application. I am a tester and get a single or couple samples of each when I or friends order to test out your new stuff or where I have a need for one that my existing ones don't quite work. My friend was able to use most of the yellow warm whites behind some yellows, reds and oranges that worked great on Taxi/Flight 2000, but then we needed to switch to natrual whites behind skin instead due to the extra warmness of them. We still used most of them.
Therefore I fully expect to buy a few that just won't work for my particular applications but may be *perfect* for someone elses; or; more importantly; one of my future applications. No worries, I am not the returning type unless something is outright defective (won't turn on (and I can't fix myself), catches fire, etc.. ) I or friends will always find a use for them and order more after we try.
Hopefully my observations can help others decide in advance as well to pick the right bulb for them. And you definitely are "the source" -- I tried Ablaze (PBL) and you have everything they do (or improved) for same price or less. You have most everything CT has -- all for less, and everything PBB has for same or less. especially shipping costs across the board on them all. So you are still the go-to, as I slowly try various ones
As I edited above, next on my try list is the double 2835 frosted you added right after we ordered; very interested in trying that one.
Quoted from Decat:Comet LEDs for the win....
High quality products, AMAZING prices, best service possible, win, win, win, thanks again Art!
and don't forget "Innovation"...that's Art's middle name.
Oh, I didnt take it as an insult or complaint....My apologies if I suggested such.
I think it is more about what happens in emails that dont get seen, it builds up, and I vented
here on the warm white issue,
The warm white discussion has been hard for me, because of course, you and everyone are right, and I can be my own worst customer!
I truly wish I had a better answer. I can get 5000 in in one batch that are great, and the next batch suffers, or changes.
Factories, and I mean 3 different, in 3 very different parts of China, all say the same thing.
Issues and money in Singapore. If I want to pay more, they will be more consistant,
I dont really believe that, but everything has gone up, and I cant see a 50% increase in just warm white.
I have to believe they will hear me, you, and other vendors across Europe, and do better...I hope.
So my apologies for being defensive, it is more an issue of addressing this behind the scenes, then it is directly what you shared.
I do, however want you genuinely to be happy. and I will do everything I can to try to achieve this.
It is more about me feeling a bit of a failure on the warm white issue, then anything else.
Again, my apologies for being rude or disrespectful.
I dont often share personal stuff, but with my brother battling stage 4 cancer, and my health issues, I have been a "grumpy" oldpinguy.
Ignoring me is what my wife does. I hope it might be OK to suggest this if I am "off" at times.
They are changing my meds again, and count your blessing if you have good health, and are not a pharmaceutical
guinea pig. More tests, and they will see if they have to cut me open again, and I hate that.
Please do accept my sincere apologies.
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:WOW! Them led's look amazing. The chrome trim would look great for the eyes in the skull for Terminator 2
Ahh, but only in white. Hmmm
What you are looking for is here: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3256&mobile=0
Just got in my order of Fluted Dome bulbs. WOW are they brighter then the single frosted ones! They were almost too bright under my plastics, so I applied an almost transparent silver film to the back and got the following results(foil on left, nothing on right). Not sure which way I will keep yet.
foil.jpgQuoted from Applezz:Just got in my order of Fluted Dome bulbs. WOW are they brighter then the single frosted ones! They were almost too bright under my plastics, so I applied an almost transparent silver film to the back and got the following results(foil on left, nothing on right). Not sure which way I will keep yet.
foil.jpg 206 KB
Dang that's bright. I'll bet they would work good under the big inserts.
Quoted from TheShameGovernor:I just helped shop a Gottlieb Jungle Queen today, and we tried the new warm white fluted dome bulbs just to see how they looked.
I was really, really impressed. The color is spot-on, the light throw is great, and they are not blinding at all. I truly do not like LEDs in EMs, but I have to say - I think the fluted domes are a winner, especially for GI.
Great stuff, Art.
Yea for Jungle Queen!
We are testing our next run, with just the tip of the fluted dome frosted....I think this little touch will make it perfect!
I got some of these fluted domes today and wow these suckers are bright! The blues, reds, and greens have a very nice vibrant color to them too! I'll be very interested in these with a frosted tip, and I'd like to see em in purple too
Unfortunately this specific chip, isnt produced in purple, however, We are putting this lens on a 5050 in purple....
It should still be sweet!
My suggestions are based on what customers have shared.
It does depend a bit on the other bulbs you use in a game, and your brightness tolerance.
But in no order...
The most common, a clear or frosted 5050:
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050.htm
Next, has been a favorite of those that have tried...Our 6 LED Crystal Fan...
It lights upward and downward at a 45 degree angle.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/6smdfan.htm
and more recently, if it in your taste, LED Bumper rings:
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/bmpring.htm
I hope this helps.
Art
Thanks for the suggestions, I like the looks of the 6 LED bulb. Is there a video of the bumper ring?
So sorry, Only pictures.....Not enough time to get it all done.....Maybe someone can post a video..it looks the same in pictures....
Quoted from Renouart:Thanks for the suggestions, I like the looks of the 6 LED bulb. Is there a video of the bumper ring?
I have the Crystal Fan in many of my games and they look a lot better then regular bulbs because of their light spread especially under the jewel caps. And if you want brighter yet the rings are the way to go and the brightness can be turned down to your likeness also. Comet bulbs gives you many choices to suit your taste and the "look" you desire.
Thanks for the review of the fan. I am looking for something to make the pop bumper really pop went it lights, but I think the rings are a bit much for me right now.
Quoted from Renouart:Thanks for the review of the fan. I am looking for something to make the pop bumper really pop went it lights, but I think the rings are a bit much for me right now.
Then the Fan is probably what your looking for.
ac/dc, installed my guitar (about time i had the guitar for almost 2 years) over the right return ramp last night and used comet pinball leds strip (red) under the guitar, hard to capture with a camera but look very nice in person.
installed another strip in the pop bumpers area between the bell and pop bumpers, always found that place a little dark, not any more and it fits there perfectly.
very easy to install, 6.3 volts anywhere in the G.I and comes with all the connectors.
big shout out for a great product at a great price, thanks art.
**used my ipad and didn't remove the glass but you get the idea**
leds pop bumper area.JPG
leds pop bumper area.JPG1.JPG
under guitar leds.JPG
Quoted from beatmaster:ac/dc, installed my guitar (about time i had the guitar for almost 2 years) over the right return ramp last night and used comet pinball leds strip (red) under the guitar, hard to capture with a camera but look very nice in person.
installed another strip in the pop bumpers area between the bell and pop bumpers, always found that place a little dark, not any more and it fits there perfectly.
very easy to install, 6.3 volts anywhere in the G.I and comes with all the connectors.
big shout out for a great product at a great price, thanks art.
**used my ipad and didn't remove the glass but you get the idea**leds pop bumper area.JPG 67 KB
leds pop bumper area.JPG1.JPG 68 KB
under guitar leds.JPG 60 KB
Super nice. Those strips are the bees knees. 
Hey Art, you have some nice UV bulbs but have you thought about making 6.3v 7 led UV strips? I have a need maybe others as well.
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Ill look into.....
Thanks Art, here's my idea. EATPM has a big clear plastic that's empty on the back right side so I'm turning it into a graveyard. I painted all the skeletons with the clear UV paint so just they light up under UV. I tried using a spot light but it doesn't light up all the graveyard, the physical spot reflector calls attention to it's self and there just isn't a place to mount it. So I tried a green 6.3v, 3 led strip tucked up under the lip of the ramp so it faces the graveyard and that worked very good but it was the wrong color and there weren't enough leds to light the whole graveyard, I need a 7 led UV strip for the mod to turn out like I want. To help hide the black sticky tape on the back of the led strip I'll mount the strip on a piece white foam tape and stick that onto the ramp. That will make the strip less noticeable from the players position. I think a UV strip would make a nice addition to your strip line-up.
Nice Idea!
Your ears must have been burning, I had this discussion with Martin, from pinball news, last night, about a strip needed in the trough for glow balls...
As always the best ideas come from you guys!
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Your ears must have been burning,
Funny you should mention that, my ears were ringing last night. 
Hope you can getter done.
Quoted from pindan3:to old pin guy...............bring goodies to Orlando..............that is all...........
Art told me he wasn't going to have a booth.
Quoted from Daniml:Don't forget, starting at midnight on Thursday, cometpinball.com will start their Black Friday Sale. Get your list together and save!!!!
I got my cart all set up. Does anyone know when they will detail the sale? Will it just be a simple coupon code that we apply at checkout?
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