(Topic ID: 5389)

New Guy And New Owner Of Scared Stiff

By thebrave

12 years ago


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  • 33 posts
  • 21 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 years ago by mickthepin
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 12 years ago

Hi there. I just bought a very nice Scared Stiff pin (my first) and couldn't be happier with it! I've been reading through lots of threads to get a bit more educated, but decided to post anyway.

I'm in the process of repairing a few small things, and have three things that I'm not sure about...

The boney beast ramp is slightly melted where the lamp sits directly under. I want to replace it with an LED to prevent any further damage, but the lamp is not under the play field.

Does anyone know how to get under the ramp? I don't want to just tear into it and possibly wreak something.

The error displayed in the test mode says Check Lower Jet Switch 55. The jet bumper itself works fine, so I don't know what's going on.

The boney beast eyes don't work. New bulbs installed and traced and checked the wires several times. They are indeed plugged in where they need to be. Any ideas?

Thanx for your time!

Johnny

#2 12 years ago

The switch issue could be that the switch is shut when powered on (contacts are touching). You may want to look at the instructions for the machine to make sure that is switch 55 or go into test mode (using the buttons inside the coin door) and press on the pop bumper and see if that is truly 55. You should be able to find instructions on ipdb.org.

Sometimes if a switch isn't hit in 90 plays then you will get the error as it thinks the switch could be broken.

#3 12 years ago

30 plays but Jud is right. Go into test mode - switch levels. High power will be off to the pop bumper coil so you shouldn't have to worry about getting your finger smacked when you press the bumper skirt. Watch the display when you press down on the skirt and if it doesn't say last switch #55 then indeed you have dirty contacts on that set of scoring switches or they are not gapped properly (1/16" - 1/8") at rest or you have a broken wire or diode on or going to that switch.

As for the lamp under the ramp, well, sorry but you will need to reamove plastics and the ramp to get to it. Pinball is a hobby for the mechanically inclined. If you are not so inclined you have an opportunity to stretch your skills.... or your wallet

Welcome to the madness!

#4 12 years ago

I looked under the play field again and kinda wiggled the switch around. Ran the test and it's all good for #55. Nice!

I have no problem wrenching on stuff. I own an orphaned classic car from the 80's (no factory or dealerships anymore) so I'm comfortable with this kind of stuff. I just didn't know if there was an order of operations to get one thing out, then the next and so on.

I do know that I don't want to replace the whole ramp, so I'll get on it.

You guys rock! Thank you very much for the help!

Johnny

#5 12 years ago
Quoted from thebrave:

I just didn't know if there was an order of operations to get one thing out, then the next and so on ...

The key is to take a ton of pictures during the process. That way, you'll know exactly what goes where and in what order.

#6 12 years ago

More good advice. Thanx gweempose!

Does anyone know if there is a fuse for the boney beast eyes? I've read the manual, but don't see anything for that listed there. The flasher works, so it may not be that anyway.

Johnny

#7 12 years ago
Quoted from thebrave:

The boney beast ramp is slightly melted where the lamp sits directly under. I want to replace it with an LED to prevent any further damage, but the lamp is not under the play field

If it's one of those #44 or #47 bulbs like most GI lighting, you may have to take out the whole goddamned ramp to replace them u_u

For the eyes, they're controlled lighting, so they're on the same fuse as all the other controlled lighting (insert lighting, etc - and not the same fuse as the flashers). I'd check the connections. Sometimes the sockets for bulbs get corroded and make poor contacts, and sometimes the connectors get dodgy for the same reason. They're on different row and different column, so you'd know if it was a problem with the matrix wires (it's conceivable that one could miss one dead lamp matrix wire, but not two different ones ). Since they're both out, i'd be looking at the connector that they're going to, and the sockets.

#8 12 years ago

Welcome, its nice to find another pinsider in Arizona

#9 12 years ago
Quoted from DrAzzy:

If it's one of those #44 or #47 bulbs like most GI lighting, you may have to take out the whole goddamned ramp to replace them u_u

On Scared Stiff, if you're taking out one ramp, you're taking out both of them. Possibly the coffin as well, depending on what it is you're trying to reach. That's the hardest game I've had to shop (for myself).

I was thinking of LEDs on my SS but I think regular bulbs work better on it.

#10 12 years ago

What are you going to do about the bump on the ramp from the hot bulb? Can you flame it or use a heat gun to smooth it out, being very careful? It probably doesn't affect game play it's just that it's there.

#11 12 years ago

Congrats on getting an Awesome machine!

#12 12 years ago

I was looking at the ramp really close and yeah, I'm going to have to take the whole thing out. Looks like both ramps, maybe. But if that's the case, I will replace it with an LED (or just remove the lamp) and be done with it. I'm going to guess that I won't want to get back in there again.

There's really nothing I can do about the melted spot on the ramp, except replace it (not gonna happen). You can definitely feel it but I don't think it has any impact on game play.

As for the boney beast eyes, I'll look at the connections again and use a multi-meter. That will help trace it out.

Thanx for all of the welcomes and support! Really glad I found this forum, because it's proof I'm not the only one who feels this way about pinball!

Johnny

#13 12 years ago

Welcome to the Pinside thebrave

#14 12 years ago
Quoted from thebrave:

Thanx for all of the welcomes and support! Really glad I found this forum, because it's proof I'm not the only one who feels this way about pinball!

Johnny

Welcome Johnny. We all have the "pinball bug" here.

#15 12 years ago
Quoted from thebrave:

There's really nothing I can do about the melted spot on the ramp, except replace it (not gonna happen). You can definitely feel it but I don't think it has any impact on game play.

That is an extremely wise approach!

#16 12 years ago

Welcome to the best pinball site.

#17 12 years ago

I know you already know this, but just make sure that when you do take apart that ramp to draw a diagram and take pics so you know how to put it back together.

Took apart Gorgar completely this weekend to clean, and even with video and pics AND written diagrams, is kind of a challenge at times to put it all back together. But man, it looks sooo nice afterwards.

Congrats on getting such a cool game.

#18 12 years ago

If you do end up taking both ramps out I would go ahead and do a full shop job and install LED's since the ramps are the most difficult part to remove. Unlike Pinbob...I think my SS is one of the best looking pinballs when filled with LED's! It looks crazy good and much better than other games with LEDs.

#19 12 years ago

Welcome!

#20 12 years ago

I bought the LED kit, but I don't know if I want to replace all lamps. I kinda like the traditional look, but I also like things not melting!

Honestly, this pin does not need any shopping. No joke. It's 15 years old, but it's still very new. I bought it from the original owner who purchased it new for his own collection. It's in fantastic condition!

Before anyone asks, I paid $3600 for it shipped to my door. I think it's a good price for such a great game in the condition it is. I feel I did pretty good for my first pin.

The play field is perfect. The clear coat is in great condition and needs nothing. I need to replace the crate sticker and the center lane skull switch is not working. Other than replacing the lamp under the boney beast ramp, that's it.

One thing that really bothers me the most, is being unable to get in the top 4 scores. That is in desperate need of repair!

Johnny

#21 12 years ago
Quoted from thebrave:

this pin does not need any shopping. No joke. It's 15 years old, but it's still very new. I bought it from the original owner who purchased it new for his own collection. It's in fantastic condition!

Congratulations on a great game. Great choice!

#23 12 years ago
Quoted from Pinballer22:

Unlike Pinbob...I think my SS is one of the best looking pinballs when filled with LED's! It looks crazy good and much better than other games with LEDs.

To be honest, I haven't seen one in person with LEDs, so it's only in my head that I don't like it! (-:

How do the LEDs do when the lights go out and flicker? That's what I can't envision with LEDs since it seems the the game takes advantage of incandescent bulbs?

That said, I do wish I had placed LEDs under the ramps when I had it all apart.

#24 12 years ago

I completed my first real job on SS this weekend. I wanted to replace the crate sticker and quickly realized that I can't do it from the top. So, the top of the crate had to come off, then the entire mech including the popper and a small ramp with optos.

All of this for one sticker. But it's done, looks good AND everything works as it should! Plus, I have no extra screws/springs/parts laying around afterwards.

Oh, and I also soldered a new switch into place for center the skull lane. Now it works too!

I rock.

Johnny

#27 12 years ago

One thing that really bothers me the most, is being unable to get in the top 4 scores. That is in desperate need of repair!

Good one TB.

Great score on a great machine.
"Unpleasant dreams...."

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#28 12 years ago

The Brave, did you take before and after shots? Which sticker did you go with? I need to replace mine as well and have seen a regular one and a high end one that's supposed to last a lot longer. For home use, not sure if it matters?

#29 12 years ago

I didn't take any photos as this wasn't too involved. I did keep the screws separated, 'tho. I bought the "high end" label from little shop of games: http://littleshopofgames.com/Games/ss.html

Actually, I got two since that little crate takes quite a beating.

Remove the two screws on top of the crate and unplug it. Then get under the play field and start removing the screws on the crate, ball popper and small ramp. After I got the crate mech out, I cleaned it up really good, and removed the door. There's a small C-pin holding the rod in place on the right side. Don't loose it. Just slide the door off to the left and take notice of the spring. Don't loose that either.

Then I took a razor and plenty of Acetone to get the OEM label off. After that, it was just putting everything back.

The new label looks completely OEM and really makes a difference because the crate is the centerpiece of the game.

I know I'm new here, but let me know if I can be of any other help!

Love that photo, nimblepin!

Johnny

#30 12 years ago

Thebrave, you said that the sticker from little shop of game looks OEM. When i look at their website, it doesn't look nice. Is it just the website picture?

#31 12 years ago

I think it looks great and no regrets buying it. I'm not very good at photos, and there's zero lighting in my game room, but here's what it looks like now with the aftermarket label:

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#32 12 years ago

As you said, looks as good as OEM

#33 12 years ago

good choice for first pin

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