1) I would first inspect the flipper end of stroke switches mounted underneath the playfield next to flipper assembly. These switches must be calibrated correctly or the flippers will be weak, even if you install a flipper rebuilt kit.
2) Make sure the two EOS switch contacts are cleaned with a flex file and are not pitted and are in good condition and are smooth and shiny afterwards.
3) Inspect plastic white bushing the flipper rod passes through. Sometimes these bushings are cracked. If so, replace with new ones.
4) Inspect all work with bright light and magnifier always.
5) Make sure the two EOS switch contacts are together and are held tightly to each other making a strong connection.
6) Take your fingers and manually operate the flipper assembly until the flipper flips upwards to its full stroke. When the flipper reaches its full stroke the two EOS contacts on the switches should open slightly and separate at the moment of full stroke.
7) Next check the flipper rods that strike the flipper switches mounted close to the front side of the cabinet underneath playfield. These flipper rods must make contact with the flipper switches firmly. Sometimes they need some adjusting by hand.
8) Make sure these flippers switches and contacts are in good condition. If so, clean and adjust them properly. If not replace them. These switches get a lot of action over time and could be worn. Inspect with bright light and magnifier always.

A full rebuild never hurts. That's the way it was when it let the factory.

There's usually just a wire that has to be resoldered, yes. Sometimes it's marked on the transformer. If you can take a picture of the transformer someone can probably tell you

What about the flipper rods that strike the flipper switches mounted close to the front side of the cabinet underneath playfield? These flipper rods must make contact with the flipper switches firmly. With the playfield in the normal locked position....you can peek inside through the coin door and view the flipper switches and rods motion while you push the flipper buttons to see if they are set up correctly.

Flipper link is where i would closely examine
to verify if the holes are not worn or enlarged to cause slop
Style of link will vary depending on the era

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Inspect flipper return spring for proper screw setting on flipper bushing. You can check this by raising the playfield up. While playfield is in the up position flick the flipper metal plunger and fiber yoke link to make sure it moves back with ease and without any tension or binding. Sometimes the flipper return spring is screwed to the wrong screw position on the white plastic bushing.

In the past....I have drilled 2 or 3 extra holes in the plastic white flipper bushing which gave me more positions than the normal factory positions of 3. This makes for the perfect tension for the flipper swing back and forth.

There should be no need to high tap if all is well with the flipper assembly.

Can send a clear close up picture of your flipper assembly?

Does your North Star electrical cord plug have three prong or two?

Which plug does your game have?
Two prong or three prong?

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You are correct

What fuse is blowing?
There should be a name label on each of the fuses stating their amp size too.

last couple of wedgies I've done I used plastic "shrink tubing", I bought a kit of different sizes and lengths off of ebay, got a bunch in it, costs about nothing. This will insure no juice coming down those long thin rods that the steel buttons touch conducting.
By the way , the door is also hot and will give you a real jolt, I mean a REAL jolt! "thought i was gonna die" type jolt.
But of course thats just me, I grabbed a plug wire on a G Production Datsun "Fairlady " once, that was worse but still, old Gottleibs will clear up that stuffy nose for sure.
Don't forget the coil sleeves on the flipper coils.
If you have done all the stuff mentioned here by all these good people and still need some more power, The Pinball Resource sells "yellow dot" coils that I have had great results with.