Last night, felt a little better, worked a little longer. Played around with a few things, including:
1) Installed a coin meter (50V) on the back door. Should be visible from the coin door, will add a lamp to ensure. May have to move it slightly up or down.
2) Started wiring various items. I previously ran commons for coils, but that was when the system was going to be 100% 24V. Now, I have a mixture of 50V and 24V, so my schematic had to change. I've made pencil additions to the schematic as appropriate, and wired in commons for my 50V setups. One of the nice things is that 50V should not have to travel to the front of the machine - it should be localized to the back door.
3) Added fuse holders for bank reset coils. Don't want 120V coils to be a big problem.
4) Held up score reels to ensure that I had space for a whiteboard with score reels mounted.
5) Desoldered male pin junk from a Jones Plug. Wired commons across the plug to the bottom-most coil of the right trip bank (player 2). I will chain common (well, really hot) across the coil lugs for both trip banks.
6) Began wiring in the timer step up. This happens on movement of switch at 3G - once per revolution of the score motor. The motor turns continuously while the timer is below step 40. I may need to slow the motor down depending on how quickly it jumps through 40 positions. Anyway, 50V gets sent to the timer step up coil when the switch closes.
7) Installed a tilt pendulum and ring. Need to buy a bob and a wingnut, will do so with next parts order.
On the reset relay, there is a safety switch. This switch prevents timer stepup while the game is in reset. Once the game has reset, the switch opens up, and the timer can again step. The timer reset is pulsed by a switch on top of the timer stepup on the switch stack. Because the motor will spin until the score reels are reset (with a pulse 12X?/16? per revolution) hopefully this works out. In the worst case scenario, timer will get hit for reset 2 or 3X.
Otherwise, I have to wire in a pulse to the robo-reset when all reels are zero and reset relay is still active. I'll have to think on how to physically wire this.
Here's one of my issues: my cabinet is thin. It was spec'd off of a Penny Pitch cab, but Penny Pitch has about 10% of the units that this thing will have... I probably should have built this test cab to be a bit larger. I'm concerned that the wheel mechs, which have not been made yet, are going to be humongous. I plan to have a series of gears to make turning this thing require some gymnastics. I think it will work very well, but obviously haven't tested that yet.
That said, I should be able to cut a whiteboard and see what happens. Wish I had a router (and skills to use it!). I do have a jigsaw, and determination. Hopefully that's enough. I'm going to cut my whiteboard out of 2x 1/4" glued together. Drilled through for lamp socket, then carved on piece #2 for lamp shielding. If I had a 3D printer, I might make my lamp shields there and cut out a step.
So I never really went into detail as to why I went with the upper mounting on the trip banks - hopefully the above makes it apparent, but I am concerned about the lack of space down below. Up high, I will have a power switch somewhat near the trips. I may put it on the back of the door to make it easier to mount.