ROBO-FRENZY - A New EM Arcade Game!

(Topic ID: 177959)

ROBO-FRENZY - A New EM Arcade Game!

By bingopodcast

2 years ago

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  • 28 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by bingopodcast
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    There are 199 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 4.
    #101 11 months ago

    Another day of progress that doesn't mean a whole lot.

    I chiseled and drilled and huffed and puffed and got the door on the hinges! Looks/works great!

    I have a bingo hinge that I plan to us I prop the door open in service mode, but can't figure out a food tie point for that yet.

    I've also considered my trunking vs plugs dilemma and realized that I need to use plugs. I will resist the urge to make everything pluggable.... For now... But my initial leanings were correct. I have too much work going too many places otherwise.

    I'll begin on that adventure shortly.

    IMG_20180128_160504_702 (resized).jpg

    P.S. ignore the mess.

    2 weeks later
    #102 11 months ago

    I've been working on the Multi-Bingo for the past couple of weeks as my weekends have been very full of family obligations. Added another four games to it, then my development computer died.

    I also managed to contract some kinda flu that's been going around my work. The past two nights I've just wanted to sleep. Tonight I came home and decided to spend at least 15 minutes working on some aspect of RF. Decided to start desoldering the trip banks.

    I'm almost finished with the second bank now. Will try to mount these tomorrow and add some new wire. I hadn't yet decided where they would go that would not interfere with backdoor or wheel mechanics. I'm thinking top or sides, but space is tight. I also have to leave room for coin door.

    I'm thinking the only place I'll be able to put it is along the front, mounted vertically on either side of the coin door area. I'll have to mount with grommits and build some small walls to keep coins out of the mechs.

    The grommits will be to prevent players from kicking the machine to gain advantage (hopefully). Will have to test magnets as well.

    Just thinking about this has me on the mend.

    IMG_20180216_211035_801 (resized).jpg

    #103 11 months ago

    Little bit more this evening. Installed new fuse holders and desoldered Jones plug and score reels.

    15189270399258753410547201729469 (resized).jpg

    I've got the trip banks mounted. Changed my mind again and mounted them up very high, near the top of the cab. Hopefully this doesn't bite me with backglass and lamp panel plans.

    With this first Jones plug, I can move 30V over to the score reel coils, as well as to the trip banks. 120V can also be pushed on this plug. I plan to isolate lamps to a second (and third, and fourth) plug. I have fuse holders to install for the 120V reset coils for the trip banks. These extra fuses are not on my schematic, but neither is the 50V transformer... My working schematic is going to be marked up quite a bit...

    Taking it easy, knocking off early right when I start to feel tired.

    #104 11 months ago

    Last night, felt a little better, worked a little longer. Played around with a few things, including:

    1) Installed a coin meter (50V) on the back door. Should be visible from the coin door, will add a lamp to ensure. May have to move it slightly up or down.

    2) Started wiring various items. I previously ran commons for coils, but that was when the system was going to be 100% 24V. Now, I have a mixture of 50V and 24V, so my schematic had to change. I've made pencil additions to the schematic as appropriate, and wired in commons for my 50V setups. One of the nice things is that 50V should not have to travel to the front of the machine - it should be localized to the back door.

    3) Added fuse holders for bank reset coils. Don't want 120V coils to be a big problem.

    4) Held up score reels to ensure that I had space for a whiteboard with score reels mounted.

    5) Desoldered male pin junk from a Jones Plug. Wired commons across the plug to the bottom-most coil of the right trip bank (player 2). I will chain common (well, really hot) across the coil lugs for both trip banks.

    6) Began wiring in the timer step up. This happens on movement of switch at 3G - once per revolution of the score motor. The motor turns continuously while the timer is below step 40. I may need to slow the motor down depending on how quickly it jumps through 40 positions. Anyway, 50V gets sent to the timer step up coil when the switch closes.

    7) Installed a tilt pendulum and ring. Need to buy a bob and a wingnut, will do so with next parts order.

    On the reset relay, there is a safety switch. This switch prevents timer stepup while the game is in reset. Once the game has reset, the switch opens up, and the timer can again step. The timer reset is pulsed by a switch on top of the timer stepup on the switch stack. Because the motor will spin until the score reels are reset (with a pulse 12X?/16? per revolution) hopefully this works out. In the worst case scenario, timer will get hit for reset 2 or 3X.

    Otherwise, I have to wire in a pulse to the robo-reset when all reels are zero and reset relay is still active. I'll have to think on how to physically wire this.

    Here's one of my issues: my cabinet is thin. It was spec'd off of a Penny Pitch cab, but Penny Pitch has about 10% of the units that this thing will have... I probably should have built this test cab to be a bit larger. I'm concerned that the wheel mechs, which have not been made yet, are going to be humongous. I plan to have a series of gears to make turning this thing require some gymnastics. I think it will work very well, but obviously haven't tested that yet.

    That said, I should be able to cut a whiteboard and see what happens. Wish I had a router (and skills to use it!). I do have a jigsaw, and determination. Hopefully that's enough. I'm going to cut my whiteboard out of 2x 1/4" glued together. Drilled through for lamp socket, then carved on piece #2 for lamp shielding. If I had a 3D printer, I might make my lamp shields there and cut out a step.

    So I never really went into detail as to why I went with the upper mounting on the trip banks - hopefully the above makes it apparent, but I am concerned about the lack of space down below. Up high, I will have a power switch somewhat near the trips. I may put it on the back of the door to make it easier to mount.

    #105 11 months ago
    Quoted from bingopodcast:

    Wish I had a router (and skills to use it!).

    Easy to use and cheap for what you are doing and a must in the woodworking arsenal, small is the one I use most, got rid of my big one and have not regretted it after 10 years:

    #107 11 months ago

    Ordered! Also, 12pc carbide tip set. Looking forward to trying on some scrap wood before cutting some holes. Thank you for the tip!

    #108 11 months ago
    Quoted from bingopodcast:

    $30!? Wow, will pick up.

    Quoted from bingopodcast:

    Ordered! Also, 12pc carbide tip set. Looking forward to trying on some scrap wood before cutting some holes. Thank you for the tip!

    You bet, also with Harbor Freight look for coupons as they have many and you should be able to get what you need for even less.

    #110 11 months ago

    IMG_20180219_000118 (resized).jpg

    Here's a look inside the back door when the whistle sounded last night. One of the trip banks nestled above the hinge on the right side. First jones plug with 24V hot (common) wired in.

    The wires look super messy right now, but I am waiting to lace until the entire bundle is complete. I am leaving only a small amount of slack so that each unit can be unscrewed and removed if needed.

    #111 11 months ago

    Another day, another bit of wire run. Lots of second guessing. Killed some extra switches on upper relays.

    IMG_20180219_230256 (resized).jpg

    #112 11 months ago

    Looking good

    3 weeks later
    #113 10 months ago

    Couple of new photos for your perusal:

    1) Some more back door wiring

    IMG_20180312_231509_477 (resized).jpg

    2) mostly wired player 1 trip bank and some basic lacing (just so I can keep myself straight).

    IMG_20180314_234636_082 (resized).jpg

    #114 10 months ago

    Little more... P2 trip bank wiring in progress.

    This weekend I hope to start on some of the stepper wiring. Rewiring the spaghetti plate on the steppers is going to take a ton of concentration. Been saving that for a minute now...

    Once the plate is wired, I can wire up the edges and hook to other relays on the back door.

    Finally, before I cut the lamp panel, I can wire up the position plates for the controls. May save that till I have the wheels cut and placed, though.

    IMG_20180315_225148_253 (resized).jpg

    #115 10 months ago

    Started to work on the stepper units. Disassembled the player unit and timer unit. Now the hard part... I have to figure out how to handle all the lamp and switch closures. Another brain bender.

    Bally on the left and United on the right. The United (player) unit is now desoldered and I've got the switches and lamps noted. Going to think on it while I sleep to make sure I'm thinking correctly... Then tomorrow night wire it up.

    Next up, the timer. The timer will step once per score motor revolution. It is going to light various lamps, handle timing the octopus tentacles, and eventually tilt out the game.

    The timer unit is going to do quite a bit, but it has many more arms on the spider to handle that.

    IMG_20180317_232055_120 (resized).jpg

    #116 10 months ago

    Tonight I was able to get the player unit wired up. Surprisingly challenging. 5 arms. One carries p1 lamp, wired across all rivets, another carries lamp common, again across all rivets, third and fourth are a p2 lockout switch - game will not allow points to be earned unless a second coin is dropped. And lastly, p2 illumination.

    When wiring the spaghetti side, you have to make sure no rivets are bridged (unless you apwant them to be), the proper rivet is selected (using a meter to tone it out - and I still might've made a mistake), and the appropriate lug # is noted on your working schematic or you'll be lost when you go to wire it in.

    I've repaired cold solder joints on the wiring side of a stepper before, but that is super easy compared to the above. For one thing, it's normally only one or two rivets that are impacted.

    Wondering if I should have used silver solder on it... Well, I didn't. Timer unit is next and it will have 40 positions of crazy intense wiring. I'm worried that I will have to effectively double up wiring as the spider has too many connections. Each position on the timer corresponds to something important, gameplay-wise.

    This is probably going to be the hardest wiring job in the game and one I've been dreading/anticipating a bit. I've got a good process now, so hopefully that will translate.

    IMG_20180318_231004_952 (resized).jpg

    #117 10 months ago

    So. Verdict is 25 total switches or lamp combos with many more repeated pairings based on position.

    Tonight I desoldered and cleaned the back and front of the disc. Then cleaned some more.

    Here's a shot in process.

    IMG_20180319_212227_642 (resized).jpg

    The backside of this disc was absolutely filthy, but it is totally solid.

    Here's after one round of desoldering.

    IMG_20180319_214842_040 (resized).jpg

    And the front.

    IMG_20180319_214820_283 (resized).jpg

    So now I'm reading the schematic and trying to translate.

    IMG_20180319_221016_913 (resized).jpg

    Let me try to describe why this is so complex. I'm sure there are plenty of folks that would be/are better at this than me, but this is a real brain teaser for me.

    I have to keep straight every position of every spider finger and what it is powering, and as it rotates, figure out what is shut off and what is powered.

    When we are talking about 1-2 circuits, no big deal. I had three on the player unit and got myself pretty well confused.

    On this unit, I've got so many things going on at once... It's going to be very tough indeed.

    I have my notebook from Multi development and will need to draw the rivet disc like in a bingo manual.

    I have stared at more than enough of those over time to hopefully give myself a little head start.

    I still don't think I'm accurately describing what makes this so difficult, but it's like a jigsaw puzzle that can be assembled incorrectly.

    #118 10 months ago

    Hmm. Not much progress tonight. Drew up a rough rivet drawing to try to figure out current spider positions and how my circuit design will work. Short answer is that I don't think it will?

    I am thinking about ways to make it work.

    My current thought is a third relay bank. But I have another issue.

    I'm using a modified Bally timer unit. It's an 8 step unit with the modern spider connection (ruggedized). Well, it gets all tangled when I swap in a 40 point gear (duh!). I should be able to remove the cladding and wiring to stepper fingers.

    I'm going to think on this for a day or two. I have nother thought that would require another motor... But I don't really like that idea.

    The relay bank would allow me to trip, trip, trip, trip pause reset.

    Lamps are no big deal, but the way the hit detection works will create an issue without the relay bank.

    Kind of a major redesign. This thing is going to be in a gun game cab before I'm done. Haha!

    My idea for the motor is really really neat, but I don't think I want that complexity.

    Hopefully that makes some kinda sense. Stream of consciousness off.

    #119 10 months ago

    Super ambitious project. Love it. I am trying to decide if this would even be possible for me and I think I decided it’s not. I cannot imagine looking at a schematic- even one I had drawn and being able to wire up a Gottlieb or similar wiper disc or Williams Bonus unit. Super cool

    So here is a question. Does a manual in an EM contain enough information to recreate the machine from parts, wire and solder? My vote is an uncertain yes - as that’s what your doing here but I don’t suppose any two people would end up with the same wiring sequence and what a mess to think about

    Watching this come a long and it’s fun to see

    #120 10 months ago
    Quoted from bingopodcast:

    Hmm. Not much progress tonight. Drew up a rough rivet drawing to try to figure out current spider positions and how my circuit design will work. Short answer is that I don't think it will?
    I am thinking about ways to make it work.
    My current thought is a third relay bank. But I have another issue.
    I'm using a modified Bally timer unit. It's an 8 step unit with the modern spider connection (ruggedized). Well, it gets all tangled when I swap in a 40 point gear (duh!). I should be able to remove the cladding and wiring to stepper fingers.
    I'm going to think on this for a day or two. I have nother thought that would require another motor... But I don't really like that idea.
    The relay bank would allow me to trip, trip, trip, trip pause reset.
    Lamps are no big deal, but the way the hit detection works will create an issue without the relay bank.
    Kind of a major redesign. This thing is going to be in a gun game cab before I'm done. Haha!
    My idea for the motor is really really neat, but I don't think I want that complexity.
    Hopefully that makes some kinda sense. Stream of consciousness off.

    I agree with this new stream of conscience...adding one more unit does not necessarily warrant your worry of it getting out of control. I think you're just understandably a little reluctant to give up the grand idea of One Unit To Rule Them it were. LOL. The design of that stepper may actually limit you later on, whereas adding another relay bank or stepper or whatever may conversely open new avenues as your design evolves.

    A challenging and fun project! ) I got too many EM pinballs to restore, so I have to live vicariously off your imaginative projects...keep it up Bingo Guy/Guru!! ;o)


    #121 10 months ago
    Quoted from rufessor:

    Does a manual in an EM contain enough information to recreate the machine from parts, wire and solder?

    I'll give that a qualified 'yes' - it really depends on the manufacturer and era. Most of the time, you'll need information from the parts catalog from around that year to really see what things look like, as there are typically very limited manuals for games.

    That's one of the things that really energizes me about working on bingos - there is a TON of documentation on just about everything in the game. Makes working on anything else a little difficult.

    Quoted from rufessor:

    as that’s what your doing here but I don’t suppose any two people would end up with the same wiring sequence and what a mess to think about

    So despite my schematic, I'm going to have to make a rev. B that will contain LOTS of changes. This is part of feeling your way through the implementation. I wasn't planning to make a manual, but I will have supplements for stepper information. Otherwise troubleshooting will be a bear and a half.

    Quoted from rufessor:

    Watching this come a long and it’s fun to see

    Quoted from Stoomer:

    keep it up Bingo Guy/Guru

    Thank you both! Trying to keep some momentum.

    There are so many projects that I'm in the middle of doing, it kind of takes my breath away when I stop and think about how much work I have made for myself. So I don't do that often. Haha!

    I'm working on a lot of really cool stuff on and around various games, I hope they are all fun and well-received when they're 'done'.

    At some point, I might need to hibernate back to the Multi project and complete the coin flash lighting and squash a few bugs, but I'm going to see if I can at least get the rest of the relay switches and this final stepper(?) wired in first.

    Quoted from Stoomer:

    adding one more unit does not necessarily warrant your worry of it getting out of control.

    Oh, I hear you - my problem is I begin to think of how neat it would be if x did y and then z gets involved and before I know it the whole alphabet and all their numeric friends are there.

    So, with the motor, I was thinking that the motor is going to bump the timer unit kind of fast. When the timer unit is bumped, it's going to light another section of the octopus. When four sections are visible, the game will reset the octopus to zero. A second motor could add a randomizing element to each tentacle. This way I could have different cam bumps provide separate timing within each tentacle. One could zip out and grab you, another could slowly work its way towards you.

    That was something I decided against, as the wiring involved will be pretty complex. I still might do it - heck, I have two transformers in there, what am I worried about, weight?

    For the trip relays, I think that is going to have to be how I handle each tentacle's lamps. I have a rather large trip bank I've been using for parts. I may end up getting another smaller trip bank and install two four bank trip relays in the bottom of the cab. This will allow independent resetting of each side's tentacles.

    I am loathe to do this because I don't want coins to get pushed into the relays - I'll have to build in wooden surrounds to keep the coins from migrating. With glue and caulk, I guess. Yes, I want it coin operated. I will add a jones plug selector for free play. I'm using an 80's Bally door with a start button integrated. The game won't have a credit unit, so that button is just dead unless on free play.

    I have lots of ideas and many are impractical. I'm trying to work within a 'budget' and reasonable 'constraints'. Haha!

    Quoted from Stoomer:

    I think you're just understandably a little reluctant to give up the grand idea of One Unit To Rule Them it were.

    That timer unit is precious to me.

    1 month later
    #122 8 months ago

    Bingopodcast, PM me, I have a project that might interest you. (I'm not "verified" [a concept I think is ridiculous] so I can't start a PM with you...)

    1 month later
    #123 7 months ago

    Been a little while since I've had a moment to work on this game - I realized I needed a couple more trip banks and set it down to work on accurate rivet-by-rivet animations on the Multi-Bingo. Still working on that, and have begun thinking about the next "Multi" project.

    Today I purchased one of the trip banks I need - I think I am going to use Gottlieb style banks as I will need to flip the banks up to work on them in the bottom of the cab.

    I've been on a casual lookout for very small trip banks (< 6), but it seems most games made after about 1950 had a minimum of 6 relays per bank. I was holding out hope, though.

    So - 6 positions it is! Maybe I'll shoehorn another function or two into the extra relays. I think this will be another really fun challenge. These relays will govern the current position of the octopus' tentacles as tripped by the timer unit. I only 'need' 4 of them, but I will likely use a fifth to handle the end of the sequence - the full extension of the arms will hang out for one more motor revolution/timer unit step.

    Also, I need to remember if I wired up the armature switch on the other Gottlieb relay bank - I would prefer to avoid it and use a switch within the sequence bank to force the reset, but we shall see. Those switches are great when they are working... but won't be so great if I've got my head in the back to work on it.

    #124 6 months ago

    Pulled the trip bank out of the wrapping and was struck by just how small it was - it felt -tiny- compared to the other banks I'd been using. Counted the relays a few times 1,2,3,4,5...6... what's missing? Haha! It was missing the reset solenoid, bracket, and any evidence that such had ever existed. It must've been reset by a solenoid mounted directly to the bottom board, but the bank is so small! Unusual.

    So I've got some spare switches, relay coils, and armatures now... but no closer to wiring it in. (A good reminder to look at those photos a little closer next time).

    3 months later
    #125 3 months ago

    Wow - dustier than ever! Someone really needs to clean in here. I have been very busy putting the final bits of polish on the Multi-Bingo, including a manual and flyer. I traded a friend for the part I needed for Robo-Frenzy at York. Now... I can begin with my test fit and wiring. The goal is one of serviceability. I need to be able to access the switches within the bank, even with the extra coin box supports I will need to add.

    This should be doable... but it will be tight. I could also mount them up higher, but I am concerned about the space needed for the wheel mechs. Regardless, I'll either attach under the backglass area, or on the bottom of the cab. Gravity would appreciate them being on the floor of the cab, since they will be resetting many times in one game.

    1 week later
    #126 87 days ago

    Desoldering complete. Little bit of cleaning to do on one of them, but otherwise ready to install.

    IMG_20181025_192132 (resized).jpg

    #127 86 days ago

    I screwed some things in and did a tiny bit of wiring. Coil Commons and 120V common wired to each tentacle relay bank.

    I took some notes on how the tentacles will be timed, as electrically, the circuit has changed. This means that the game will, by its nature, also change.

    IMG_20181026_201315_096 (resized).jpg

    Attack, vicious tentacles! Attack!

    Now, what to do mechanically? I originally planned on a 40 step timer, similar to the early Bingos. 40 is a nice round number, and would have allowed for all the crazy stuff I wanted to hang off of the unit to function.

    IMG_20181026_211455 (resized).jpg

    Since I've simplified, I can possibly move to a Williams match unit or similar, which would be a continuous step.

    IMG_20181026_211430 (resized).jpg

    That would work, but many fewer steps. Any multiple of 4 would work fine. I would also have to truck it back to zero position if the game tilted before end or install a reset coil. Not sure which route I want to go.

    On the Bally unit, I'll have to remove the awesome shielded wire bundle because I will be pushing power directly through each blade of the stepper and the spring will get caught by step 25 or so. (this is a later timer that steps 8 times, modified with a 40 step gear). Not the end of the world, just want to make sure I'm doing the correct thing for the game before I start soldering another 1000 tiny wires.

    #128 84 days ago

    Spent today puzzling stepper function. Bally used a spider with completely insulated fingers. This allowed them to push different voltages through the fingers as needed.

    Reverse-engineering the steppers in a way that will work was a fun little puzzle. Without the feeder wires, there wouldn't be a way to push the current through to the rivet. I'm going to have to solder in feeder wires that will have to be flexible. I'll have to experiment to see if this will work without tangling.

    I'm in the process of soldering each of the spaghetti wires (on the back of the stepper) to feed lamps and coils. The unit will be divided into 4 steps for coil activations. After the fourth relay cuts, the bank will reset via a motor switch. I'm still experimenting to see which motor switch will work the best. It has to finish resetting before the motor finishes a revolution.

    Additional switches are needed for the tentacle banks to provide signalling for the motor switch. Only on pos 4.

    #129 83 days ago

    More work today, just soldering away.

    Here's a photo of the work in progress - you can see the different components that make up the spider on the right. Mixing and matching to find just the right fit was very interesting. Each finger starts in a different position, so the board must be marked on the back before you start soldering, and on the front so that it is reassembled correctly.

    IMG_20181028_154604 (resized).jpg

    I love Bally units. Interesting that it is driving Gottlieb trip banks!

    #130 80 days ago

    Finished wiring the back of the stepper. I've added a third finger for future expansion, if needed.

    On step 40, the game will trip the tilt (game over) relay. The outer row will trip one of four relays, the middle row will light one of eight lamps based on the position of the timer.

    I've wired from the spaghetti side to the outer solder points, aligned the disc, screwed it all together. Now to screw into the cab and solder into place. But first, I have to draw the disc and document wire colors and etc.

    IMG_20181101_211154 (resized).jpg

    Slowly, but surely. I'm thinking about soldering the robot positional discs while I'm in a stepper mood. But I should finish wiring this up first.

    Spoke with some of the custom pinball folks about cheap ways to prototype a backbox light board. I don't want to waste a bunch of time and wood on backbox boards that I have to pitch.

    One of the folks suggested cardboard, which I think is ingenious. I just need to make sure that lamps light when expected, not their final positions (yet).

    This will allow me to screw a panel in to observe the action of the game. Fantastic idea.

    #131 79 days ago

    I may have a weekend goal of powering up the currently wired sections of the game, once this stepper is in place, and a handful of other circuits:

    a) A power switch to power both 120V portions of the transformers (both already fused).
    b) A socket for each part of the countdown clock (8 sockets)
    c) Wiring between the coil portion of the timer unit and the trip banks
    d) The player unit (it's wired, but needs to be installed in the game).
    e) Wiring between the coin relay and the player unit.
    f) Wiring between the player unit and the trip banks for scoring.
    g) Wiring for the trip reset on the score motor.
    h) 50V coil wiring from secondary transformer.

    That may sounds like a lot, and it is. So we'll see if I can do it. It's a busy weekend with the kids, but who needs sleep when you're doing something fun that can potentially burn the house down? I'll keep you in the loop.

    After this test, there's still a LOT left to do. But this is a good start.

    #132 79 days ago

    Sounds like a plan. I like the stepper, those are fun to play with and this project is going to be awesome to watch come together! Good luck and have fun

    #133 79 days ago

    Thanks rufessor! Definitely fun so far.

    Surprising no one, I'm sure, it is unlikely I'll hit my target of plugging it in this weekend. I spent most of the evening yesterday handling some more permanent fastening and rearranging of components to fit better and prevent shorts and wire tears. Soldered a few wires, but nothing spectacular.

    This evening I'll be cutting the cardboard to make my backbox lamp board, and continuing to wire.

    #134 78 days ago

    More wire (my wife photo'd me without my knowledge!)

    IMG_20181103_191055 (resized).jpg

    Started prototyping my light board as well.

    IMG_20181103_203313 (resized).jpg

    IMG_20181103_213441 (resized).jpg

    I've wired in player one tentacle trip relays (coil side).

    Now I need to wire in the lamp commons, then I can start wiring in the lamp switches. One thing I noticed when I documented the timer unit, was the I didn't document the player unit... Very unfortunate as I wired in five fingers each with different action. I'll have to rethink that.

    #135 77 days ago

    Absolutely amazing. Been thinking of doing a much simpler project like this for years, but it would never be as complex as what you are tackling. Wow, two transformers and they aren't on the hinge edge? All the bally transformers that look essentially like that are mounted in my machines on a flat surface (like the bottom of a backbox). Is that going to cause any warpage of that large door over time? I guess the door will normally be closed, so it will just warp to where the two pieces of plywood (door and cabinet) meet each other.

    #136 77 days ago

    Thanks! Glad you caught that. Yes, it will sag. Hasn't yet, but it's only been that way for a few months.

    I initially planned for a single transformer, mounted on a door that opened from the other side.

    I changed my mind on the direction of the opening to match practically every other game with a hinged back door that I've owned or worked on.

    At that point, I had already done my layout and decided to stick with it. Then I added another transformer...

    The hinges used are bingo hinges and they are stupidly strong, and are assembled in such a way that you can lift the door straight up to remove and service.

    So we shall see. I -may- build a new cab for this game later on.

    #137 75 days ago

    I haven't had much time to work on this for a couple of days. I did run about 1/5 of the lamp commons on my cardboard lamp board. Another busy day/night today, but I'd like to get back to it!

    #139 74 days ago

    That's for keeping the post up to date Nick! Silently(mostly) following...


    #140 73 days ago

    Got a big socket order coming today (I gave up trying to find my bag of sockets - I'm sure they'll be the first place I look once I open the box of new sockets) - if it arrives, expect some updates this weekend!

    I counted the lamps last night, and there are 97 controlled lamps and 1 GI (so far) on this thing. I may add another two GI lamps so that I have a nice round 100 bulbs.

    #141 73 days ago

    By the way... I documented the player unit in this very thread! I'll make a nice diagram like I did for the timer. Hooray!

    #142 71 days ago

    Over 100 sockets (forgot to add gi for the title!)

    Slowly wiring. I only have the second set of tentacle lamps left to wire, then I can go back to wiring inside the game.

    IMG_20181110_150348_247 (resized).jpg

    #143 71 days ago

    Looks great! Keep on chuggin

    #144 70 days ago

    Lots and lots of wiring done on the panel today, pried open the holes for the bulbs, and inserted the panel in place inside the game.

    Now I've started the crazy process of soldering all these switches into place. Unfortunately, I've had to redesign a few circuits as I've been refamiliarizing myself with my schematic.

    I need a few dozen more Williams relay switches. Going to delve through my parts tomorrow and try to figure out what I've got.

    I mentioned a while ago that I thought of a motorized randomization method for the tentacles. Turns out I thought of a different randomization method that will be unique for every game played. Good job, Nick of the past!

    Here's an in-progress shot of the game. Lots more wiring added. I have a bulb shipment coming tomorrow (or Tuesday).

    IMG_20181111_215319_234 (resized).jpg

    I'll install those, put in some extra switches into my octopus relays, and do some lacing of what I've got here just to get it out of my face. I've added a couple of cable clamps, and will add some more.

    My tilt/hold relay (which also functions as game over), needed to be redesigned, I think. I'm going to reflect on the switch positions for a while and see if I'm actually wrong.

    #145 69 days ago

    Spent yesterday putting bulbs into the sockets - the cardboard is not proving to be quite so resilient with 104 bulbs weighing it down. I'm going to have to screw some temporary blocks in to prevent the sockets from sagging and shorting against the robo trip banks.

    I also added some switches to the Octopus relays. These relays control part of the randomization of the octopus tentacles. Each tentacle is made up of four illuminated sections. The fourth and final section can either go to the left or right. For some silly reason, I had removed multiple switches from the relays, leaving only one for the left side lamp. Of course, I need a NC default switch to handle the right side - and hey! - how would I have hit detection without yet another SPDT switch? Thankfully I had all the parts I needed, so I rebuilt the relays.

    Handy tip for those of you building your own EMs - any switch pair can become a NC pair if you reverse the top and bottom switches.

    I still have to wire in the new switches, but I'm a little bit closer. Also, I thought on my game over/tilt/hold relay and realized that my paper design was good. I had to modify the circuit for the game over lamp slightly, but that is now done. Headed in the right direction!

    #146 69 days ago

    Yay!! There's my relay bank!! Proud

    Text me with the specs of the WLMS relays you end up needing...I got shittons of those it seems, and very little need for them. Especially the 70s style...


    #147 69 days ago

    Wow how did I not know about this until now? Always following your projects!

    #148 68 days ago
    Quoted from Stoomer:

    Yay!! There's my relay bank!! Proud

    Hey Sean, thought you might like to see your baby getting some use.

    And great! I need a source for shittons of Williams relays - sounds like I found him! I may be about to add another dozen or two. Once I've solidified the design, I'll shoot you a message, and we'll work out the details. Thank you!

    Quoted from cait001:

    Wow how did I not know about this until now?

    Thanks cait001! I have started and stopped this project multiple times while I've been finishing the Multi.

    In Robo-Frenzy news, I spent my lunch break thinking about how many switches were needed for the tentacle trip banks. Each trip relay has to have a minimum of 6 switches (4 four lamps and one for hit detection triggering (firing the octopus relay, or not), and one for turning off the coil once tripped)... and I'll need a seventh switch to handle turning off the power to the previous Octopus relay. But my trip banks don't have 6 switches per position, and most have the single trip bar. That means that I'll have to add a buncha switch lifters to do my dirty work - resting on the trip bar. I am not particularly fond of that design, but needs must. I'm going to see if it is possible to build them up. If so, I should be fine. If not, I'll need to farm part of the switching out to another suite of relays. Ideally, I won't be adding many more relays - I'm running out of useful space. I do have a few spots on the back door.

    If I can keep them on the trip bank, though, I can leave my hit detection to the final relay - the Octopus relay mentioned above.

    #149 68 days ago

    Spent a tedious evening wiring - now all of the 4th position tentacle lamps are wired, along with one position on the countdown timer.

    This sounds like not much, but it's 16 bulbs, running through two sets of switches for the tentacle lamps, and the countdown timer is on a stepper (ok, that one's easy.) All of the lamps run through the Jones Plug so that I can actually service the light panel in the future, when it's made out of wood.

    I suspect that when I lace these up, I'm going to realize that I needed even more slack in each wire... which is fine. Really. Fine.

    I need to order some more wire today - I'm almost out of everything except for black and white. Why do I have so much black and white wire?

    Tonight I will try to wire up the last of the timer lamps - I'll need to add another Jones Plug for those, and then start wiring up the coil voltage for the trip relays, since those will feed off of the timer. I'll run them through the player unit so that only the trip banks needed for the game will function.

    #150 67 days ago

    Some more stuff tonight.

    IMG_20181114_214857_807 (resized).jpg

    New Jones Plug, ready for service.

    IMG_20181114_220729 (resized).jpg

    Before lacing.

    IMG_20181114_231927_592 (resized).jpg

    After. Now I can install the new plug and wire some more lamps and switches (24).

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