Crash-

First, thanks for the info on that game. Sounds like there are some issues to be dealt with for sure. I'd like to help you out with some of the info.

First, regarding LEDs on the IO board. If high power is engaged, Every single LED under/next to the fuses is lit. If the IO board is communicating with the Motherboard, then the three LEDs in the logic section of the board (closer to the front of the board) will be active. Two of them flash quickly, one of them is solid on. If any of your LEDs on the IO board are out, you either have a blown fuse, no communication with the motherboard, or your missing some high power (interlock switch not active). The LEDS under the fuse are directly powered off of the high-power lines. They are not logic controlled. If the high power voltage is there, the LED is on.

Regarding the code issue with the Munchkin Hut- Possible there could have been a problem there, but to me it seems more likely that it is a loose/flaky connection,especially since you mentioned the LEDs being out on the IO board. Moving the playfield in and out likely reset the connector in the plug. Perhaps the trough board opto set wasn't registering enough balls, so your game got confused with how many could be locked. Check to make sure the trough optos are working well, and talk to Lloyd if they are not. I could see how that could make the game lose track of balls. Definitely a strange issue. However, if Pintucky's game works now, then great. At least you guys got a solution to work.

Regarding the light boads- As I'm sure you're aware, the 5V boards have had some issues in some games (in a bunch of games, they work fine, which is very frustrating when trying to troubleshoot this). The 7.5V boards work very well, but bad/flaky 5V boards can knock out a 7.5V board.

***The following is for informational purposes only. Please do not adjust your LED voltage supply!***
There is a potentiometer on your 5V supply. The chips on the boards will safely work up to 5.5V, and the voltage was set to 5.2 to account for voltage drop in the wire and to give more headroom if there is a low voltage condition, which can cause light lockups. * DO NOT adjust your potentiometer with your boards attached! Do not adjust you boards above 5.2. One slip, and you just burned out a lot of board fuses. Seriously, don't adjust that potentiometer. Also, if you ignore me, please nobody electrocute themselves while doing this. I don't need that shit on my conscious.

The proximity of the rollover switch to the bottom of the RGB should be adjusted if it is close enough to make contact. Either adjust the bracket of the LED, or adjust the switch itself.

Regarding problems with the 7.5V boards- Are those LED the wrong color from startup, or does this occur after the game has been on for a while? My thought is maybe a bad solder pad or a bad component on the board. There have been intermittent assembly issues with some of the 7.5V boards, and we replace them if this is the case. Talk to Lloyd if this is an issue.

Audio board issues- Most games shipped with a ground-loop isolator between the soundboard and the motherboard starting last summer. If Pintucky's game doesn't have one, they're pretty cheap and easy to find. The routing of that audio cable can make a big difference in distortion pickup due to radiated emissions from the transformer, motherboard, power supply, and IO board. Please try adjusting the cable when the game is on to see if the sound improves in quality. If the soundboard has gone out, Lloyd will hook you up with a new one if you submit a ticket.

Hope this helped,

Eric