(Topic ID: 226473)

New CN-31-2000 coil HOT!

By flappybob123

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by chad
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 5 years ago

Hey guys. So I recently acquired a Bobby Orr's Power play, and have been restoring many of the non functioning parts over the past couple of weeks. I noticed the extra chime does not work, and inspected the coil to find it completely burned out. (the outside of the coil was blackened). So I went ahead and ordered a new coil, and when it arrived I checked its resistance (which was 56 ohms, an acceptable resistance for this specific coil.) I then soldered the leads of the coil (with the diode facing in the same direction as the old coil) to the wires the old coil was previously soldered to, let the solder cool off for about 10 minutes, and turned on the machine. I then started the game, which is supposed to set off all 4 chimes in a lovely sequence, to find that the new coil does not fire at all (the other 3 coils are still working fine). I then placed my hand on the new coil and it felt extremely hot to the touch, and had heated up to such a hot temperature in only a few seconds. I immediately unplugged my machine and cut the wires off of the leads of the new coil, as I didn't want to cause damage to my board or cause a fire of some sort. Does anyone have any idea what may be the problem here? The coil is brand new, so I don't understand why it's not firing, and is instead overheating very hot very quickly.

#2 5 years ago

You will neex to replace the transistor that drives it. Do you have a manual?

#3 5 years ago

Q1. 10 point
Q5 100 point
Q6. 1000 point
Q7. Extra chime.
You can use TIP 102 for replacement.

#4 5 years ago

Hmm okay. So you're suggesting a bad transistor on the solenoid driver? I have a pdf of the manual as well as schematics. When I checked that circuit at the wires for voltage it read around 50V, which seems correct to me.

#5 5 years ago
Quoted from flappybob123:

Hmm okay. So you're suggesting a bad transistor on the solenoid driver? I have a pdf of the manual as well as schematics. When I checked that circuit at the wires for voltage it read around 50V, which seems correct to me.

Like an EM pin, could one of the playfield switches be stuck and engaging the chime coil. Put into switch test and check all. I would still change transistor. You may have to change the diode on coil , as it may have shorted from the bad transistor.

#6 5 years ago

My test mode button used to work, but it quit working after I installed an NVRAM chip and took out the nicad battery. But I'll replace the transistor regardless as well as the diode.

EDIT:
Test button was working, I just wasn't pushing hard enough.

#7 5 years ago

You may want to repin all of the connectors and recap the power supply as the root of this failure is probably related.

#8 5 years ago

Just to clarify, which connectors are you referring to?

#9 5 years ago
Quoted from chad:

Like an EM pin, could one of the playfield switches be stuck and engaging the chime coil. Put into switch test and check all. I would still change transistor. You may have to change the diode on coil , as it may have shorted from the bad transistor.

I ran the switch test and a "0" is displayed, so the chime coil is not engaged.

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from flappybob123:

I ran the switch test and a "0" is displayed, so the chime coil is not engaged.

Thats a good start. The 4 connectors on the mpu board, and the 3 on the rectifier transformer board.

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