Quoted from slochar:That odd that the 6 digit displays have commas enabled since the original displays are no comma.
I think it's the easiest way to not lose the Jumper in the packaging.
Quoted from slochar:That odd that the 6 digit displays have commas enabled since the original displays are no comma.
I think it's the easiest way to not lose the Jumper in the packaging.
Quoted from pacman11:Great pictures guys thanks, those should help.. Bottom connector is hard to see though..
Hoping this helps…..
35697D7C-89D6-4D5F-9011-8AD8A867FD8A (resized).jpeg561B0BF3-8BFA-42BD-8EB8-09BF69C68792 (resized).jpegA51975D8-E208-4C75-9F7F-4A3C32132596 (resized).jpegDEA9736F-EF0C-4B8B-B365-C92BF47A7F19 (resized).jpegI just cleaned and inspected the old LED display.
The bottom electrical board with transistors looks perfect, but the LED display looks to have burn spots throughout. Can I buy plug in 6 number LED displays only that plug into the transistor board bottom. Without soldering?
Quoted from MyParagon1979:I just cleaned and inspected the old LED display.
The bottom electrical board with transistors looks perfect, but the LED display looks to have burn spots throughout. Can I buy plug in 6 number LED displays only that plug into the transistor board bottom. Without soldering?
The original displays are plasma gas, not LED. Different technologies. We call those burn spots measles. You can likely pick up a used, original 6 digit display for under $50. Put up a WTB thread.
The benefit of replacing all the displays with modern LEDs is that you can then disable the high voltage required for the plasma, but it does get a little pricey.
Quoted from zombywoof:The original displays are plasma gas, not LED. Different technologies. We call those burn spots measles. You can likely pick up a used, original 6 digit display for under $50. Put up a WTB thread.
The benefit of replacing all the displays with modern LEDs is that you can then disable the high voltage required for the plasma, but it does get a little pricey.
First off, thank you very very much!!!!!!!
I’m attaching a photo of my old plasma gas. Hoping the photo shows the burn spots. So, is this trash? If a used original is $40-50, and new LED is $55, seems a reasonable plan either way. Another question, can I keep the 4 players original plasma gas, and the credit-ball LED? Non matching. My player 1 plasma gas is perfect, and players 2,3,4 are ok enough….
Yeah, that's burnt out. Sometimes you can get used ones cheaper than the $40-$50. At this point I'd consider getting the pinitech uno displays, I really like those if you're going to go full LED. You can mix and match plasma and LED on bally/stern games, but not williams games. Williams are all or nothing.
Quoted from slochar:Yeah, that's burnt out. Sometimes you can get used ones cheaper than the $40-$50. At this point I'd consider getting the pinitech uno displays, I really like those if you're going to go full LED. You can mix and match plasma and LED on bally/stern games, but not williams games. Williams are all or nothing.
What’s the difference between pinitech and XPIN? The people at XPIN have been amazing with communication via email. In fact, they send me a response re JP1 this morning, on a Sunday.
I have XPins in most of my Bally machines. Great product.
You can source used displays for aboout 15-25 dollars each and reflow all the header pins.
Either way, you are going to want to search the forums for threads on re-pinning connectors and assemble the tooling and pieces required to repin all of the connectors when you replace your deisplays.
Quoted from guitarded:I have XPins in most of my Bally machines. Great product.
You can source used displays for aboout 15-25 dollars each and reflow all the header pins.
Either way, you are going to want to search the forums for threads on re-pinning connectors and assemble the tooling and pieces required to repin all of the connectors when you replace your deisplays.
Ok, you caught me off guard.
I’ve already reviewed tons of videos on repinning, which my rectifier board desperately needs.
But why do I need to repin for a new XPIN display? I just plugged it in and it’s working perfect.
Quoted from Quench:Dear o' dear, that poor charred skeleton of Q12. Haven't noticed the 5k bonus lamp isn't working?
[quoted image]
Is it a 2N5060 transistor?
Where is best place to buy?
Quoted from MyParagon1979:I’ve already reviewed tons of videos on repinning, which my rectifier board desperately needs.
But why do I need to repin for a new XPIN display? I just plugged it in and it’s working perfect.
Anytime you replace connectors you should replace the Pins and vice versa.
You CAN get away with just cleaning the pins, but replacing the header pins and connectors simultaneously will lead to longer life of both components.
Quoted from MyParagon1979:Is it a 2N5060 transistor?
It is a 2N5060 but it's a SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier). It's not a transistor.
Get them from ebay, your favorite pinball parts supplier, Great Plains or many other electronics parts suppliers.
Quoted from Quench:It is a 2N5060 but it's a SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier). It's not a transistor.
Get them from ebay, your favorite pinball parts supplier, Great Plains or many other electronics parts suppliers.
Thank you!!!!!!
There are many different brands of replacement LED displays available, including kits you assemble yourself, but since you already have one Xpin probably best to stick to that brand throughout.
Replacing that SCR is a pretty simple job BUT your soldering skills need to be "reasonable".
Get an old VCR or stereo that's junk and practice soldering on that - removing and replacing parts. You will soon pick up the skill and not risk damaging your machine.
Always remember when replacing component parts in your machine that your FIRST and MAIN priority is to save the printed circuit board. The parts are being replaced and are most likely junk so cut them off the board or remove them in any way that preserves the actual PCB itself. This is most important.
Once the board has been damaged/butchered it is probably throw away at that point unless care is taken.
Quoted from pins4u:There are many different brands of replacement LED displays available, including kits you assemble yourself, but since you already have one Xpin probably best to stick to that brand throughout.
Replacing that SCR is a pretty simple job BUT your soldering skills need to be "reasonable".
Get an old VCR or stereo that's junk and practice soldering on that - removing and replacing parts. You will soon pick up the skill and not risk damaging your machine.
Always remember when replacing component parts in your machine that your FIRST and MAIN priority is to save the printed circuit board. The parts are being replaced and are most likely junk so cut them off the board or remove them in any way that preserves the actual PCB itself. This is most important.
Once the board has been damaged/butchered it is probably throw away at that point unless care is taken.
Great advice!
I actually practiced soldering today for an hour on the old plasma gas display. The bottom board is perfect. Any advice on best size for soldering the board?
Quoted from MyParagon1979:Great advice!
I actually practiced soldering today for an hour on the old plasma gas display. The bottom board is perfect. Any advice on best size for soldering the board?
Not sure what you mean by "best size" - if you mean soldering iron then ideally, you would have a temperature controlled station with a reasonably fine tip. That will do almost all things you will ever need for pinball.
Many swear by XXX brand or YYY brand but to be honest, especially for hobbyist use, one of the cheapo Chinese clones work perfectly well and are well under $100 (Amazon etc).
Things like this ($40 crazy cheap!): (I have been to large factories where they use things just like this perfectly OK - not high end Hakko, Pace etc)
iron (resized).pngQuoted from pins4u:Not sure what you mean by "best size" - if you mean soldering iron then ideally, you would have a temperature controlled station with a reasonably fine tip. That will do almost all things you will ever need for pinball.
Many swear by XXX brand or YYY brand but to be honest, especially for hobbyist use, one of the cheapo Chinese clones work perfectly well and are well under $100 (Amazon etc).
Things like this ($40 crazy cheap!): (I have been to large factories where they use things just like this perfectly OK - not high end Hakko, Pace etc)
amazon.com link »[quoted image]
Sorry, my mistake.
Best mm diameter size solder material for the SCR to the board.
I’m practicing on a larger diameter, maybe around 1 mm. Not sure if smaller diameter will work better/easier?
I’m figuring the 1 mm will be good for soldering wire to light bulb base under the playfield.
Yes, usually 0.8mm or 1mm is best for most pinball work
You also need a reasonably small tip on the iron - a plumbers iron won't do here, and temperature controlled is best but not a requirement.
Quoted from Knxwledge:For desoldering get a Soldapullt or a Vampire Solder Sucker
...or some desolder wick - or a combination of all 3. there is no "one correct way" when desoldering. Different situations call for different solutions and this only comes with practice and experience.
Quoted from pins4u:...or some desolder wick - or a combination of all 3. there is no "one correct way" when desoldering. Different situations call for different solutions and this only comes with practice and experience.
Ive never once used the desoldering wick but to each their own
Quoted from Knxwledge:He was directing that question at pacman11. T3quila, I wouldn't think he meant he got a transformer, as replacements really aren't available and they rarely go bad.
Except for the one that pins4u mentioned, looks like the transformers are unobtainium. Need to check pinball resource. I have a secondary cab incoming that has everything in the backbox missing, so I need actually the whole A2 assembly, but that price seems a bit steep. I do have an extra rectifier board, so that's why I was seeing if I can just find a trandformer.
Quoted from T3quila:I have a secondary cab incoming that has everything in the backbox missing, so I need actually the whole A2 assembly, but that price seems a bit steep. I do have an extra rectifier board, so that's why I was seeing if I can just find a trandformer.
The rectifier board replacements are relatively cheap.... very simple board. The prices on transformers has went up tenfold you used to be able to get them for $20 shipped in a flat rate box. Now they're around $200-$250. For vintage used.....
I installed a new nvram.
The machine saves my credits, but not high score.
So my knocker is knocking away!!!!!
On your mpu( where you installed the ram) are 32 switches. Switches 6 & 7 are off, which tells the MPU not to award credits for high scores. - it may be keeping the board from keeping the high score
Quoted from guitarded:I have cut / notched hardwood to use as a support when doing it in place with a hammer and punch.
But, on the last one I did I used a chain tool (Bicycle repair) to push the pin out and it worked like a charm.
I did take a QTip and apply a little lube / pentrating oil to the pin about 5-10 min before I pushed it out as it had a bit of surface corrosion.
Fingers crossed
image (resized).jpgQuoted from pins4u:Seems like overkill but - should do the trick nicely.
Not saying I'd always keep one in my Pinball Tool Box...but. they are handy on a trail when you snap a chain!
My baby’s getting all dressed and ready to party!
New thumper caps.
New rubbers.
New LED on bumpers.
Question, started two days ago, sometimes the backlights on the head board don’t go on. But the tilt light works…..
9295648A-B31B-42D8-9FB0-5EE0FF482014 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgYes.
XPIN was great.
It’s not on the paperwork that came with the display, but he quickly sent a photo of the jump to remove.
Quoted from slochar:Your player 2 display looks like it's outgassing as well.
And player 3…… and player 4….. but player 1 looks perfect. Hence my reluctance to replace all of them. Bummer because XPIN sells 5 for the price of 4, but I was reluctant to spend $250………
At times (rarely) the majority of the lights on the headboard won’t turn on. At times they are all lit. Is this a loose pin on the lamp board?
Quoted from Xtraball:Ha! Back in 1980 I was supposed to be in my college classes. Instead I was busy doing all kinds of extra curriculars, including much pinball.
Me too! Silver Ball Mania, Space Invaders, Harlem Globetrotters and later Haunted House, are 4 that I remember from in the Students Union.
The lamp board does not drive the gi lights in the back box. Look for a bad connection on your 7.5 VAC connection.
Quoted from Billc479:The lamp board does not drive the gi lights in the back box. Look for a bad connection on your 7.5 VAC connection.
I appreciate your advice,
But can you please help direct me to the location that I can inspect? I’m relatively new at this…….
I don’t have a schematic with me, so going by memory, (I’m old, so verify!) the AC comes from the rectifier board to the back box. The wire should connect to the braid feeding the lights on the backboard. Those wires at the source have the connections you want to check. Personally, I would look close at the rectifier board and where the wires connect to the braid.
Quoted from Skippy2904:Me too! Silver Ball Mania, Space Invaders, Harlem Globetrotters and later Haunted House, are 4 that I remember from in the Students Union.
The campus had pins all over, including every dorm. They would rotate games throughout the dorms, student union and lower level of the cafeteria. The ones I remember are Lucky Hand, Team One, Nugent, Paragon, Phoenix, Stingray, Joker Poker and Torch. Then the original Black Knight appeared! Raped us of all our money!!! There was a Globetrotters at the local bar.
Connector J3 is for backbox, so it has the backbox light wires on it. I would recommend repinning all 3 rectifier board connectors
You guys weren’t kidding. Getting that pin out was insane. The bike chain tool worked great, but I wasn’t able to get the pin back in. The Slingshot kicker head fits really tight. How long will it take to fly off without a pin? Was thinking to thread a heavy fishing line through the hole and tie tightly?
4258E026-2AC4-4F3C-8256-18CE845660B9 (resized).jpegWanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
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