(Topic ID: 239060)

New Amplified Subwoofer Kits by PinWoofer


By PinWoofer

6 months ago



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  • Latest reply 14 days ago by unlockpinball
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    There are 301 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 7.
    #151 5 months ago
    Quoted from MadPole:

    I'd be very interested...

    I've added you to the customer beta list, madpole !

    #152 5 months ago

    Curious what this PinWoofer 2 is going to be...

    I’m ready to jump in to the subwoofer experience... I have FF installed in several machines, proud of the quality, but underwhelmed with the bass upgrade

    #153 5 months ago

    Very interesting there’s already a version 2! Just please don’t add unnecessary LEDs and remove important parts of the circuitry and jack the price up please! (Necessary LEDs are fine

    #154 5 months ago

    Not to worry:

    V1 will persist beyond the release of V2:
    - V1 is a great subwoofer kit, the first of its kind and it will always be here. The price point is planned to remain the same and it will continue to do the job marvelously.
    - V1 as a full-range kit (disables the nebulous low-pass filter) will also remain the de facto standard for our mono and stereo backbox amp and will continue warming the hearts of the music pin fanatics.
    - V2 is in proto verification and will release in 60 days if everything stays on schedule. The price point will be higher because of the expanded feature set and innovations. (Cutting PCB's is expensive.)

    We'll keep the LED count to a minimum as suggested.

    Cheers

    #155 5 months ago

    Is PinWoofer2 an add on to 1, or a separate amp?

    #156 5 months ago

    Just placed my first order... going in Radical!

    Any special tips on a system 11?

    #157 5 months ago
    Quoted from Chosen_S:

    Just placed my first order... going in Radical!
    Any special tips on a system 11?

    Somewhere around Space Station, 12V routing to the coin door interface board was added which greatly simplifies the power tap (if you are tapping into the pin's 12V).

    Radical! likely follows the Bally/Williams standard post-Space Station with 12V routed to the coin door interface board shown at https://PinWoofer.com -> INSTALLATION -> "12V POWER TAP".

    12V = yellow on grey
    GND = black

    This should be a very turn-key install but reach out if you need assistance.

    Thanks!

    #158 5 months ago

    Put me in on Beta for Pinwoofer2, please....MunstersLE going in now!!!

    #159 5 months ago

    I’m in on the version 2.0 as well.

    Just played my IJ again after installing a couple weeks ago. I was blown away again. Sounds like you’re in a movie theater (i have pinsound with good mix). Just as good bass as when I had it on my polk external 10”. Maybe better because you can feel the rumble in your hands almost like a shaker.

    #160 5 months ago
    Quoted from MK6PIN:

    Put me in on Beta for Pinwoofer2, please....MunstersLE going in now!!!

    MK6PIN down for PW2 beta test. Can't wait for feedback on MunstersLE! You and v8torino will have the same setup!

    #161 5 months ago
    Quoted from paynemic:

    I’m in on the version 2.0 as well.
    Just played my IJ again after installing a couple weeks ago. I was blown away again. Sounds like you’re in a movie theater (i have pinsound with good mix). Just as good bass as when I had it on my polk external 10”. Maybe better because you can feel the rumble in your hands almost like a shaker.

    paynemic down for PW2 beta test. (List is nearly full.)

    INDY is a sweet pin for the 8. Glad you are happy with it!

    #162 5 months ago
    Quoted from PinWoofer:

    paynemic down for PW2 beta test. (List is nearly full.)
    INDY is a sweet pin for the 8. Glad you are happy with it!

    You put me down already right?

    #163 5 months ago

    First install in SPIKE....sounds great!! Couple of pics...will post feedback in a few

    IMG_20190423_211357465 (resized).jpgIMG_20190423_211412895 (resized).jpg
    #164 5 months ago
    Quoted from f3honda4me:

    You put me down already right?

    Oh yeah - got you down for PW2 beta!

    #165 5 months ago
    Quoted from MK6PIN:

    First install in SPIKE....sounds great!! Couple of pics...will post feedback in a few
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    THAT is an amazing setup!

    I see the MeanWell PS and power distribution mezzanine.

    All I can say is wow!

    More commentary on how the rest of us can get to the same level!?

    #166 5 months ago
    Quoted from MK6PIN:

    First install in SPIKE....sounds great!! Couple of pics...will post feedback in a few
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    So........... definitely other stuff you're seeing in the pics that are unrelated to PinWoofer (mainly pulsing light stuff) also running off my PS.

    The system sounds great in MunstersLE....my first one in a SPIKE game (so you can screw around w the eq all you want....). Lots of room to dial in the amount of bottom end effect desired. Got the warmth I was missing, and very pleased w product.....thanks Dan!!!

    #167 5 months ago
    Quoted from PinWoofer:

    THAT is an amazing setup!
    I see the MeanWell PS and power distribution mezzanine.
    All I can say is wow!
    More commentary on how the rest of us can get to the same level!?

    Ha..thanks Dan...super easy in a SPIKE machine, as it comes with a switched, 110v supply cord for bill acceptor. I just power the Meanwell from that....super clean.

    Terry @ PBL sells the power distro (think we called it out earlier). Then just a simple crimp job for the 12v molex (yes the PS has 5v on it too, if needed)

    I typically don't like shortening the supplied cables on the lit flipper buttons, shooter, etc., so just bundle separately. Fun stuff!!!

    #168 5 months ago
    Quoted from MK6PIN:

    Ha..thanks Dan...super easy in a SPIKE machine, as it comes with a switched, 110v supply cord for bill acceptor. I just power the Meanwell from that....super clean.
    Terry @ PBL sells the power distro (think we called it out earlier). Then just a simple crimp job for the 12v molex (yes the PS has 5v on it too, if needed)
    I typically don't like shortening the supplied cables on the lit flipper buttons, shooter, etc., so just bundle separately. Fun stuff!!!

    I picked one of those power disty boards from PBL. Excellent quality.

    #169 5 months ago
    Quoted from PinWoofer:

    I picked one of those power disty boards from PBL. Excellent quality.

    Yep.....Mike's (D/K) was the best...miss his stuff, but this one works fine....

    #170 5 months ago

    My kits arrived for MBr and AFMr.

    F2A61EA5-1234-4D28-B313-04BE205ACE95 (resized).jpeg
    #171 5 months ago
    Quoted from f3honda4me:

    My kits arrived for MBr and AFMr. [quoted image]

    f3honda4me I am seriously jealous of the good time you're going to have this afternoon!

    Post #116 and #138 from paynemic document his MMR install experience, and yours should be similar. These posts should provide some great context before getting stared - in particular, the power connection if you are tapping the pin's 12V rail.

    Detailed instructions can be found at https://PinWoofer.com -> INSTALLATION.

    Good luck!

    #172 5 months ago

    Ok so for those that have CGC remake games such as Attack From Mars AFMr, Monster Bash MBr, and Medieval Madness MMr, there is a 12V bill acceptor plug that you can use to tap for your 12V source. Below are the images.

    Here is the wire schematic I used, it's the cabinet wire diagram. I'm looking for this connector in the cabinet. With a yellow and black wire.
    IMG_4122 (resized).jpg

    Here is the connector harness and the unused 12V bill acceptor. It is located near the coin door, just above the tilt bob.
    IMG_4120 (resized).jpg

    Here is a closeup showing the yellow (positive) wire and the black (ground) wire coming from the harness.
    IMG_4121 (resized).jpg

    Here is the completed install. I followed the yellow and black wires up towards the bill acceptor plug and tapped it there. I verified by turning on the machine and testing using my voltmeter and verified 12v.
    IMG_4123 (resized).jpg

    #173 5 months ago

    As for my feedback, the instructions can seem overwhelming at first, but it has important notes to read. Just follow the instruction web page from top to bottom as you go. Took me about 30 minutes doing it the first time. I anticipate future installs, if I know where the 12V tap is, would take me only 10 minutes.

    On the CGC machines, you do not need the MDF ring as they come with an 8" speaker already. So the 8" sub speaker and amp kit is perfect.

    The sound is FANTASTIC. You can pull as much or as little bass out of this as you want. It's a nice deep rich sound, very full. You can rattle the glass on your pin haha. And it's a nice clean install, great to not have to have a big box under your pin with speaker wires running into it, and another power cord to plug in. I highly recommend this mod, glad I got it done for sure.

    Also to note, I believe the 8" kit will also work fine with the JJP POTC and WOZ machine. Both of those have 8" speakers, and will fit the slightly taller speaker that comes with the kit without issue, again foregoing use of the MDF ring. The speaker that comes in the kit is better than the stock ones as it can handle more power etc.

    #174 5 months ago

    I'm interested in a backbox speaker solution as well (speakers included). I have Pinsound Premium kits in TAF and T2, which made a HUGE difference over stock. My AC/DC Premium came with upgraded sound (haven't explored the internals to see what exactly the previous owner did), and my TS allegedly has an upgraded woofer only, but the sound is pretty bad. I was thinking about just buying another Pinsound Premium kit for the TS, but curious to see what you could do. Also, with lots of powered mods on all the machines, I'd love a full plug-n-play solution on adding external power that switches off with the game.

    #175 5 months ago
    Quoted from f3honda4me:

    As for my feedback, the instructions can seem overwhelming at first, but it has important notes to read. Just follow the instruction web page from top to bottom as you go. Took me about 30 minutes doing it the first time. I anticipate future installs, if I know where the 12V tap is, would take me only 10 minutes.
    On the CGC machines, you do not need the MDF ring as they come with an 8" speaker already. So the 8" sub speaker and amp kit is perfect.
    The sound is FANTASTIC. You can pull as much or as little bass out of this as you want. It's a nice deep rich sound, very full. You can rattle the glass on your pin haha. And it's a nice clean install, great to not have to have a big box under your pin with speaker wires running into it, and another power cord to plug in. I highly recommend this mod, glad I got it done for sure.
    Also to note, I believe the 8" kit will also work fine with the JJP POTC and WOZ machine. Both of those have 8" speakers, and will fit the slightly taller speaker that comes with the kit without issue, again foregoing use of the MDF ring. The speaker that comes in the kit is better than the stock ones as it can handle more power etc.

    Excellent feedback and I am thrilled you like the sound! I greatly appreciate your notes and the feedback that a power section is needed on the website (your text message). I'll work on that.

    The instructions were intended to guide ANYONE through the install process and as you have noted, there are details that the more experienced / skilled guy might have to weed through to get to the core information.

    Also, I'll strongly consider offering a kit option that deletes the MDF ring. The ring is required for the 8" speaker when mounted to 6" patterned studs, but as noted, not needed if the factory cabinet studs are patterned for an 8" driver. The ring does offer 1/2" of standoff intended to mechanically isolate the foam surround of the speaker from the cabinet floor, and MAY prevent friction compared to being mounted against a flat surface. Something to keep in mind - you might remove and inspect the speaker after a time to ensure that the foam surround is not wearing against any such "shelf" that exists between the outer diameter of the cabinet hole and the outer diameter of the speaker. (I don't think it will be a problem.)

    Well done!

    #176 5 months ago
    Quoted from SeaLawyer:

    I'm interested in a backbox speaker solution as well (speakers included). I have PinballPro Premium kits in TAF and T2, which made a HUGE difference over stock. My AC/DC Premium came with upgraded sound (haven't explored the internals to see what exactly the previous owner did), and my TS allegedly has an upgraded woofer only, but the sound is pretty bad. I was thinking about just buying another PinballPro Premium kit for the TS, but curious to see what you could do. Also, with lots of powered mods on all the machines, I'd love a full plug-n-play solution on adding external power that switches off with the game.

    You might duplicate what chuckwurt did to his ACDC PV mentioned in post #107. Full range backbox amp and an 8" subwoofer kit. He added some JBL 5-1/2" 2-way rounds. (Hoping to see some photos of that soon!)

    This can be done to any pin - let me know if you want to order full-range backbox amps as we are out of stock, but they can be made up with reasonable lead time.

    I'd love to offer backbox speakers and PS's but I'm not there yet.

    Thanks!

    #177 5 months ago
    Quoted from PinWoofer:

    Excellent feedback and I am thrilled you like the sound! I greatly appreciate your notes and the feedback that a power section is needed on the website (your text message). I'll work on that.
    The instructions were intended to guide ANYONE through the install process and as you have noted, there are details that the more experienced / skilled guy might have to weed through to get to the core information.
    Also, I'll strongly consider offering a kit option that deletes the MDF ring. The ring is required for the 8" speaker when mounted to 6" patterned studs, but as noted, not needed if the factory cabinet studs are patterned for an 8" driver. The ring does offer 1/2" of standoff intended to mechanically isolate the foam surround of the speaker from the cabinet floor, and MAY prevent friction compared to being mounted against a flat surface. Something to keep in mind - you might remove and inspect the speaker after a time to ensure that the foam surround is not wearing against any such "shelf" that exists between the outer diameter of the cabinet hole and the outer diameter of the speaker. (I don't think it will be a problem.)
    Well done!

    I'll check it after some time.

    #178 5 months ago
    Quoted from f3honda4me:

    Ok so for those that have CGC remake games such as Attack From Mars AFMr, Monster Bash MBr, and Medieval Madness MMr, there is a 12V bill acceptor plug that you can use to tap for your 12V source. Below are the images.
    Here is the wire schematic I used, it's the cabinet wire diagram. I'm looking for this connector in the cabinet. With a yellow and black wire.
    [quoted image]
    Here is the connector harness and the unused 12V bill acceptor. It is located near the coin door, just above the tilt bob.
    [quoted image]
    Here is a closeup showing the yellow (positive) wire and the black (ground) wire coming from the harness.
    [quoted image]
    Here is the completed install. I followed the yellow and black wires up towards the bill acceptor plug and tapped it there. I verified by turning on the machine and testing using my voltmeter and verified 12v.
    [quoted image]

    A permanent modification is part of the official install instructions? Was there no option for something reversible? I would have gone with a new harness that could be installed to make the mod completely reversible.

    #179 5 months ago
    Quoted from metahugh:

    A permanent modification is part of the official install instructions? Was there no option for something reversible? I would have gone with a new harness that could be installed to make the mod completely reversible.

    I hardly consider this permanent. It’s just a tap. It can be removed and a tiny bit of electrical tape to cover the millimeter of exposed wire.

    A harness isn’t a bad idea though. Would have to research and design one for every manufacturer IF it’s even possible. Newest machines are easiest since you could use a harness that plugs into the unused 12V bill acceptor.

    #180 5 months ago
    Quoted from f3honda4me:

    I hardly consider this permanent. It’s just a tap. It can be removed and a tiny bit of electrical tape to cover the millimeter of exposed wire.
    A harness isn’t a bad idea though. Would have to research and design one for every manufacturer IF it’s even possible. Newest machines are easiest since you could use a harness that plugs into the unused 12V bill acceptor.

    Does the tap really have an wire exposed if it’s disconnected? I consider that reversible too. But i never want to take these out!!

    #181 5 months ago
    Quoted from f3honda4me:

    I hardly consider this permanent. It’s just a tap. It can be removed and a tiny bit of electrical tape to cover the millimeter of exposed wire.
    A harness isn’t a bad idea though. Would have to research and design one for every manufacturer IF it’s even possible. Newest machines are easiest since you could use a harness that plugs into the unused 12V bill acceptor.

    Cutting the wire is permanent. You can't undo the cut in the wire without replacing it. Electrical tape is a band aid and not a fix. Electrical tape has no place in a pinball machine

    There has to be a better way to tap the voltage needed without making a permanent cut in the wire. Using a splice is an amateur (and cheap) way of getting power to the device.

    It's absolutely possible to make a harness. This is where Pinwoofer can make their product stand out by offering a more complete solution. I'll have to check my MMR but I'm certain there is a better way to pull power.

    Quoted from paynemic:

    Does the tap really have an wire exposed if it’s disconnected? I consider that reversible too. But i never want to take these out!!

    You are exposing the electrical wire to the elements if you remove the tap, but if you guys have already gone through the effort to install this why would you remove it?

    #182 5 months ago

    I've been working on power harnesses and have some out for evaluation. Pictured is Spike-2 example, wired for both a cabinet and backbox amp routing to CN6 of the power distribution board (if memory serves). I'll start to offer more of these since they are turnkey.

    Even this example can be improved upon.

    Keep the constructive criticism flowing - it helps to drive improvements.

    20190414_084826 (resized).jpg

    #183 5 months ago
    Quoted from metahugh:

    Cutting the wire is permanent. You can't undo the cut in the wire without replacing it. Electrical tape is a band aid and not a fix. Electrical tape has no place in a pinball machine
    There has to be a better way to tap the voltage needed without making a permanent cut in the wire. Using a splice is an amateur (and cheap) way of getting power to the device.
    It's absolutely possible to make a harness. This is where Pinwoofer can make their product stand out by offering a more complete solution. I'll have to check my MMR but I'm certain there is a better way to pull power.

    You are exposing the electrical wire to the elements if you remove the tap, but if you guys have already gone through the effort to install this why would you remove it?

    You’re misunderstanding me. I’m saying if I ever wanted to remove the speakers (I won’t, but just for the sake of the “reversible mod” argument) I’d just leave the female t-tap on the wire. The wire technically has some insulation displaced, but there is no cut in the wire and no exposed metal (the plastic housing of the t-tap covers it all) that could become a risk of a short. In this way I don’t consider it irreversible in the same way I don’t consider resoldering a broken wire an “irreversible mod”.

    But I know some people might be more particular than me about being 100% true original. In that case, they wouldn’t like this upgrade anyway.

    #184 5 months ago
    Quoted from f3honda4me:

    Ok so for those that have CGC remake games such as Attack From Mars AFMr, Monster Bash MBr, and Medieval Madness MMr, there is a 12V bill acceptor plug that you can use to tap for your 12V source. Below are the images.
    Here is the wire schematic I used, it's the cabinet wire diagram. I'm looking for this connector in the cabinet. With a yellow and black wire.
    [quoted image]
    Here is the connector harness and the unused 12V bill acceptor. It is located near the coin door, just above the tilt bob.
    [quoted image]
    Here is a closeup showing the yellow (positive) wire and the black (ground) wire coming from the harness.
    [quoted image]
    Here is the completed install. I followed the yellow and black wires up towards the bill acceptor plug and tapped it there. I verified by turning on the machine and testing using my voltmeter and verified 12v.
    [quoted image]

    Doesn't the switching PS have 12vdc outputs? ( I own an AFMrLE, and seem to recall grabbing the power there without having to tap any lines). Could be wrong... I'll check tonight. I'd favor that approach, if available...

    #185 5 months ago
    Quoted from MK6PIN:

    Doesn't the switching PS have 12vdc outputs? ( I own an AFMrLE, and seem to recall grabbing the power there without having to tap any lines). Could be wrong... I'll check tonight. I'd favor that approach, if available...

    The switching PS has 12v out going to the playfield and to the solenoid board in the head. You could add your own wires to the 12v out posts I suppose.

    Spoke with PinWoofer about some ideas about making power adapters for the PinWoofer kit specific to each pinball manufacturer. This would eliminate wire tapping for the 12v power and would not increase cost much. Will see what happens next!

    #186 5 months ago
    Quoted from f3honda4me:

    The switching PS has 12v out going to the playfield and to the solenoid board in the head. You could add your own wires to the 12v out posts I suppose.
    Spoke with PinWoofer about some ideas about making power adapters for the PinWoofer kit specific to each pinball manufacturer. This would eliminate wire tapping for the 12v power and would not increase cost much. Will see what happens next!

    You beat me to it!!! popped the top on my AFMrLE, and it's got quite a robust, 12vdc, switching power supply (it's where I tied in some LED stuff). That's a great spot to power the pinwoofer, without having to compromise any existing wiring, simply crimp (2x) forks and screw them down. Completely reversible.

    Dan adds alot of goodies, connector wise to this kit. Suspect having a few key adapters available would make install even quicker/cleaner on a stock rig for those that don't have the stuff to make them up.

    #187 5 months ago

    I like where this is going!

    I've been surprised at the number of owners with aftermarket PS's. The CGC have one in the cab. Both of these examples are essentially are turnkey in terms of power availability and to include application specific cable solutions would really tie things off nicely. Perhaps one that is compatible with the 3-pin Molex array that mk6pin was showing in his MunstersLE post #163.

    For someone not running mods and who requires only the minimal power to run the PinWoofer amp, I want to maintain the option of tying into the pin's power since the amp has fairly low power requirements and I don't want to stray from the wider potential install base.

    The Spike-[12] have a straightforward solution routing to the Power Distribution Board at CN6.
    Earlier pins will have other solutions.

    Please suggest how the connector assortment needs to change and I'll see what can be done. f3honda4me may also have something in mind as he designs his power cable solutions. Please keep both avenues (pin power and aftermarket PS) in mind for cable solutions.

    Keep the great ideas coming and we'll do what we can to improve the kit!

    #188 5 months ago
    Quoted from PinWoofer:

    Finally, what I'd really be interested in seeing is a PS with a voltage sense line for on/off. This would allow the PS to turn on and off with the pin and avoid modification of the pin's power switch. There may be an aftermarket gadget already out there that gets in between the service outlet and the PS AC plug; it is worth a search.

    Check this out. Innovative, if a little expensive. Powered on by sensing light in the machine. I have one in my desw to power a cool custom mod he helped me make. Good guy. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1015-rock-custom-pinball/02222-game-on-interactive-power-supply-with-backpanel-illumination

    #189 5 months ago
    Quoted from paynemic:

    Check this out. Innovative, if a little expensive. Powered on by sensing light in the machine. I have one in my desw to power a cool custom mod he helped me make. Good guy. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1015-rock-custom-pinball/02222-game-on-interactive-power-supply-with-backpanel-illumination

    3 amp is perfect for just mods, but may be on the low side I think when you're potentially powering aftermarket subwoofer, backboard speakers, and mods. I have an idea in mind for a better solution, more to come.

    #190 5 months ago
    Quoted from PinWoofer:

    I like where this is going!
    I've been surprised at the number of owners with aftermarket PS's. The CGC have one in the cab. Both of these examples are essentially are turnkey in terms of power availability and to include application specific cable solutions would really tie things off nicely. Perhaps one that is compatible with the 3-pin Molex array that mk6pin was showing in his MunstersLE post #163.
    For someone is not running mods and who requires only the minimal power to run the PinWoofer amp, I want to maintain the option of tying into the pin's power since the amp has fairly low power requirements and I don't want to stray from the wider potential install base.
    The Spike-[12] have a straightforward solution routing to the Power Distribution Board at CN6. Need to confirm fusing and current delivery capability (if anyone has the schematic please share it).
    Earlier pins will have other solutions.
    Please suggest how the connector assortment needs to change and I'll see what can be done. f3honda4me may also have something in mind as he designs his power cable solutions. Please keep both avenues (pin power and aftermarket PS) in mind.
    Finally, what I'd really be interested in seeing is a PS with a voltage sense line for on/off. This would allow the PS to turn on and off with the pin and avoid modification of the pin's power switch. There may be an aftermarket gadget already out there that gets in between the service outlet and the PS AC plug; it is worth a search.
    Keep the great ideas coming and we'll do what we can to improve the kit!

    A 3 pin molex cable that plugs into a board like in post #163 is definitely something that can be added/made as well. Anyone know what the max amps is on mod a board like that? That would be my only concern, is pulling too much current from a small mod board and damaging it, similar to the 1amp limit on some of the spike node boards.

    So far I have seen users report that CN6 on the Power Distribution spike board can handle 3A without issue.

    #191 5 months ago
    Quoted from f3honda4me:

    A 3 pin molex cable that plugs into a board like in post #163 is definitely something that can be added/made as well. Anyone know what the max amps is on mod a board like that? That would be my only concern, is pulling too much current from a small mod board and damaging it, similar to the 1amp limit on some of the spike node boards.
    So far I have seen users report that CN6 on the Power Distribution spike board can handle 3A without issue.

    Wait, what??? Those power D/A's have been around for years, and are used as a pretty standard way to distribute both 5v and 12v for all sorts of things in a clean fashion, using a molex connection that has been sort of a standard tap on Stern games for even longer.

    What are you trying to reinvent? This type of molex connector comes on many, many mods. This approach keeps people from hacking existing cabling to power everything from colordmd, led lights strips, and everything in between. A connection cable as such would be valuable for a pin woofer system, imho.

    Not understanding your concerns or where you're really going here.

    Maybe a separate development thread would draw the electronic geeks into the discussion of your vision.

    #192 5 months ago
    Quoted from MK6PIN:

    A connection cable as such would be valuable for a pin woofer system, imho.

    This is what I'm doing, what I quoted here. Just making pinwoofer cables.

    #193 5 months ago
    Quoted from metahugh:A permanent modification is part of the official install instructions? Was there no option for something reversible? I would have gone with a new harness that could be installed to make the mod completely reversible.

    Easily accomplished....

    #194 5 months ago
    Quoted from f3honda4me:

    This is what I'm doing, what I quoted here. Just making pinwoofer cables.

    Nice post edit, and I'm sure Dan's kits will benefit from premade, adapter cables of quality. Look forward to seeing them.

    Exploring power distro and the supplies themselves takes a deeper dive...there are threads if you search for them in here... enjoy the enthusiasm....mark

    #195 5 months ago
    Quoted from MK6PIN:

    Nice post edit, and I'm sure Dan's kits will benefit from premade, adapter cables of quality. Look forward to seeing them.
    Exploring power distro and the supplies themselves takes a deeper dive...there are threads if you search for them in here... enjoy the enthusiasm....mark

    Hah yea I realized my post was overly wordy and could be shortened a lot. Thanks for the help Mark! You’re one of the most helpful people here on this forum, between my WOZ from Mike D and this I owe you a few drinks lol.

    #196 5 months ago
    Quoted from paynemic:

    Check this out. Innovative, if a little expensive. Powered on by sensing light in the machine. I have one in my desw to power a cool custom mod he helped me make. Good guy. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1015-rock-custom-pinball/02222-game-on-interactive-power-supply-with-backpanel-illumination

    Clever gizmo! I did not look through the entire website but from what I did see, he does not offer a voltage sensing relay. That would be useful under certain circumstances. Please share if I missed it!

    #197 5 months ago
    Quoted from MK6PIN:

    Nice post edit, and I'm sure Dan's kits will benefit from premade, adapter cables of quality. Look forward to seeing them.
    Exploring power distro and the supplies themselves takes a deeper dive...there are threads if you search for them in here... enjoy the enthusiasm....mark

    How about this for a cable that will come with pinwoofer for use by those that have a 12v mod board already in their machine?

    (just the cable that connects to the board - the 8 way board is not included)

    imagejpeg_0 (resized).jpg
    #198 5 months ago
    Quoted from f3honda4me:

    How about this for a cable that will come with pinwoofer for use by those that have a 12v mod board already in their machine?
    (just the cable that connects to the board - the 8 way board is not included)
    [quoted image]

    I LOVE it! Send some my way soon and we can add them to the website! Thanks f3honda4me !!!

    #199 5 months ago
    Quoted from f3honda4me:

    How about this for a cable that will come with pinwoofer for use by those that have a 12v mod board already in their machine?
    (just the cable that connects to the board - the 8 way board is not included)[quoted image]

    Hint - That molex connector is not proprietary to the splitter. It's on the right side of many, many Stern machines around the shooter rod (12v and 5v access point). Might want it a bit longer, as some may just want to plug in the system straight to the machine.

    #200 5 months ago
    Quoted from MK6PIN:

    Hint - That molex connector is not proprietary to the splitter. It's on the right side of many, many Stern machines around the shooter rod (12v and 5v access point). Might want it a bit longer, as some may just want to plug in the system straight to the machine.

    Thanks! For those that don’t have the 8 port mod board, and have spike stern, I’m making a cable that will plug right into CN6 on the stern spike 1 and spike 2 power node board. Like this, but adding a fuse for extra protection since it’s plugging directly to a machine board. Nice long 6’ cable to run from the head to anywhere in the cabinet right to the PinWoofer amp.

    Similar cables coming for JJP, CGC, wpc95, and others.
    09E99DCA-7BCF-48EE-8809-E2D1EA4ACA88 (resized).jpeg

    The issue with using some of the other molex connectors inside the stern machine is that they go to boards that may not be able to handle the current. I’m opting for the most reliable solution just to be safe.

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