Middleton, ID
lets make that 7, this is my new drug!
(Topic ID: 239060)
Got mine installed in TronLE tonight...very tidy package and sounds great!!! It can definitely hit hard, but I prefer just adding enough to "warm" the sound to where I like it. Infinitely adjustable, so you'll get what you're looking for. Tron kills with it....
I like it alot (could never stand having wires hanging from under the games), and anxious to compare just the amp w a FF 8" in my STLE (sitting next to TronLE).
All hardware (and then some) included....nice job!!!...mark
Quoted from Boltronix:will this work in Frankenstein?
Yes, is compatible with Sega Frankenstein.
If you don't mind, please post or PM me a photo of the existing cabinet speaker, including the speaker terminals and a few inches of the wires, as I'd like to review the wire colors and how the speaker lugs were done (bare or insulated).
Thx
Quoted from PinWoofer:Yes, is compatible with Sega Frankenstein.
If you don't mind, please post or PM me a photo of the existing cabinet speaker, including the speaker terminals and a few inches of the wires, as I'd like to review the wire colors and how the speaker lugs were done (bare or insulated).
Thx
Nice product.
I have question regarding is there any rattling of the machine when base is hitting hard? I had a nice setup in past, but base was causing everything to rattle (backglass, PF glass, etc. Switched to the Polk eternal sub cuz of it. As it is with my Metallica when hammer hits, and Sparky getting zapped the machine rattles enough. I do have foam, but still dont stop the rattling. Just wondering, thanks.
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:Nice product.
I have question regarding is there any rattling of the machine when base is hitting hard? I had a nice setup in past, but base was causing everything to rattle (backglass, PF glass, etc. Switched to the Polk eternal sub cuz of it. As it is with my Metallica when hammer hits, and Sparky getting zapped the machine rattles enough. I do have foam, but still dont stop the rattling. Just wondering, thanks.
Oh yes, you can get some rattling on hard hits if the volume is cranked. After a few plays you'll know where to set the volume for a good blend.
The amp has headroom beyond what you'll need. It sounds stellar, but other than testimonials, it's impossible to describe. The bass tones are phenomenal and I'd encourage you to reach out to some of the other guys to get their opinions before buying.
For me it is also a matter of integration and simplicity. I like a clean look to my lineup and want to see nothing but legs under my pins. You get a great sound; these things drop in quick and there is nothing to deal with ever again. Just turn on and enjoy (no more complains about the Roomba getting hung-up).
Thanks for the great comments; just my opinion above.
I read thru this posting and thought it was an interesting idea. I have several of my pins running thru an external powered sub-woofer, but thought this self-contained package was a cleaner installation so i went ahead and purchased the 8" version.
I installed it on my Star Trek premium. I love the soundtrack and the sound effects are loaded with a g'bunch of bass notes. The premium already has an 8" woofer and it sounds pretty damn good already, but I wanted more.
The installation was simple and straight forward. Stern soldered the connections to the sub, so I installed spade connectors to make it a cleaner install. My 12v tap was already being used for an other mod. I used a 12v splitter connector and pinned a 3 pin power connector on the amplifier power cord. The power taps included in the kit would've worked fine, but this looked cleaner.
Everything powered up fine and I started my first game. The sub amp was at about 50%. The pin might have actually vibrated off the floor. Good lord this thing can crank out the bass. I adjusted the volume to a more reasonable level and I am absolutely loving it. The external subs on my other pins are a great addition and make for a great experience, but this self contained bass monster is something all together different. The bass is super clean and you feel it throughout the game. The closest thing I've experienced to this is TNA. The sound effects during Nero and the Vengeance modes were already my favorites, now they are simply epic.
I'm tempted to replace my external subs on my other pins with this mod. I'd do it without hesitation if I can find buyers for my external subs. I have no doubt I'll use this mod on any new pin that could use a boost.
Received my kit over the weekend - I am adding the amp to an existing Flipper Fidelity install (which sounds quite good already) on my original Williams Monster Bash. Haven’t had a chance to install, but I’m looking forward to it!
I've been waiting for something like this and plan to check out the site and order likely. If I could spec it myself I'd prefer an option with a separate plug and a circuit that cuts when no sound is detected like my home theater subs because my only concern is power requirements.
Quoted from MadPole:I read thru this posting and thought it was an interesting idea. I have several of my pins running thru an external powered sub-woofer, but thought this self-contained package was a cleaner installation so i went ahead and purchased the 8" version.
I installed it on my Star Trek premium. I love the soundtrack and the sound effects are loaded with a g'bunch of bass notes. The premium already has an 8" woofer and it sounds pretty damn good already, but I wanted more.
The installation was simple and straight forward. Stern soldered the connections to the sub, so I installed spade connectors to make it a cleaner install. My 12v tap was already being used for an other mod. I used a 12v splitter connector and pinned a 3 pin power connector on the amplifier power cord. The power taps included in the kit would've worked fine, but this looked cleaner.
Everything powered up fine and I started my first game. The sub amp was at about 50%. The pin might have actually vibrated off the floor. Good lord this thing can crank out the bass. I adjusted the volume to a more reasonable level and I am absolutely loving it. The external subs on my other pins are a great addition and make for a great experience, but this self contained bass monster is something all together different. The bass is super clean and you feel it throughout the game. The closest thing I've experienced to this is TNA. The sound effects during Nero and the Vengeance modes were already my favorites, now they are simply epic.
I'm tempted to replace my external subs on my other pins with this mod. I'd do it without hesitation if I can find buyers for my external subs. I have no doubt I'll use this mod on any new pin that could use a boost.
Agreed....I think balance is the key to success for this one....can easily overpower, rattle the cab, but just dialing in "enough" makes it sound excellent. The clean install makes it a nice add, imho..
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Received my kit over the weekend - I am adding the amp to an existing Flipper Fidelity install (which sounds quite good already) on my original Williams Monster Bash. Haven’t had a chance to install, but I’m looking forward to it!
Just did this in my STLE that has a FF 10" sub. The driver is definitely more sensitive, so gain must be kept down, or glass rattling is a definite.
Still adds nicely, just have to back it off a bit...
Chénens
Quoted from BOBCADE:I've been waiting for something like this and plan to check out the site and order likely. If I could spec it myself I'd prefer an option with a separate plug and a circuit that cuts when no sound is detected like my home theater subs because my only concern is power requirements.
I drive all my mods w external , switching power supplies. Pretty easy to install, then zero worries about load...Can provide part # for a nice MeanWell unit that has 12 and 5vdc, under $40.00
Quoted from MK6PIN:I drive all my mods w external , switching power supplies. Pretty easy to install, then zero worries about load...Can provide part # for a nice MeanWell unit that has 12 and 5vdc, under $40.00
@MK6PIN does this supply power on / off with the pin (i.e. a sense line)? Please share the part # and link.
Quoted from PinWoofer:@MK6PIN does this supply power on / off with the pin (i.e. a sense line)? Please share the part # and link.
yes, but you need to wire it in to switching A/C ....most of the time super easy w any machine that has a bill acceptor. If not, you simply wire from main power box.
I'll grab the part # and post tomorrow......many aftermarket LED strip companies are including lower priced, adequate versions, as this is a genuine issue. The Meanwell I use is industrial grade, and mod worries are a thing of the past. (used to just wire old workstation ps's, but these are clean and easy).
Quoted from MK6PIN:I drive all my mods w external , switching power supplies. Pretty easy to install, then zero worries about load...Can provide part # for a nice MeanWell unit that has 12 and 5vdc, under $40.00
You also have the option of rewiring the power box to turn the service outlet on and off with the game, and then just using a wall wart. 10 minute mod, and you can plug whatever you want into the service outlet. On my games which have multiple high-drawing mods, I plug in a power strip to keep the mods off the game driver board.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:You also have the option of rewiring the power box to turn the service outlet on and off with the game, and then just using a wall wart. 10 minute mod, and you can plug whatever you want into the service outlet. On my games which have multiple high-drawing mods, I plug in a power strip to keep the mods off the game driver board.
Nice! Is there a guide for this anywhere?
Combine that with a direct plug for the amp and I would buy for all my games.
Quoted from BOBCADE:Nice! Is there a guide for this anywhere?
Combine that with a direct plug for the amp and I would buy for all my games.
I haven’t written up a nicer one yet but this is fairly complete:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-sub-addition#post-465272
There was a good point in the switching power guide thread:
Quoted from markmon:You guys should know that line level input is not intended for speaker wire inputs. Those are found on sub amps that say "high level input". High level inputs are designed to show almost no added resistance to your amp. This is very important as it prevents over heating and blowing your amp. Using speaker out to line level input may produce an undefined load to your amp causing it to heat up or blow. In this case, the amp is your av board amp in your backbox. On a 20-30 year old game, you definitely do not want to stress those components even further. And saying "it seems to work ok for me" is no response to this as it may work for a while while stressing the board in your pin to failure. Before attaching the speaker wires to this thing, someone needs to measure impedance on the RCA jack input at the very least.
The way to properly wire this is to intercept the line level input on the av board before its sent to the internal amp.
Further, wiring line level input up to high level input will add a lot of distortion as the sub input is expected to be a set "line level" volume.
Further, not having auto sensing means this thing will be constantly powered and generating heat 24 hours a day even when your machine is off, assuming you use the service port. The OP's instructions for modifying the port must be used. Or cut the power cord and wire directly to the white / black wires near the coin door for the bill validator. These are switched 110v. Remember if you mod your service port, you can't plug in a soldering iron when machine is off to do repairs.
Therefore, I would not use this in a pinball machine.
Installed 6 kits today, average 1/2 hour each. Defiantly much easier and faster after the first install. I had to get creative with the CV install. That ringmaster bracket is huge.
Has to be moved like this pic and the square riser needs to come off. Still sounds amazing. FYI the pin pro also installs this way, being offset does not affect the sub sound.
576F3C52-AF68-48F5-B2C6-CDED647E52E9 (resized).jpegQuoted from Rdoyle1978:I haven’t written up a nicer one yet but this is fairly complete:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-sub-addition#post-465272
That thread has some scary moments in it......I've been busy, but will post the dual voltage PS, and proper way to distribute w Molex splitter. Wall warts and a power strip in a pinball machine to supply different mods may work, but I'll pass......
Quoted from MK6PIN:That thread has some scary moments in it......I've been busy, but will post the dual voltage PS, and proper way to distribute w Molex splitter. Wall warts and a power strip in a pinball machine to supply different mods may work, but I'll pass......
MK6PIN more information and tapping into your PS knowledge would be VERY helpful to a lot of guys here! Whatever you can find time to provide.
P/S - http://www.meanwellusa.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=RD-125
You can grab switching 110v from either bill acceptor, modifying the aux connection in the games, powerbox, or numerous other spots that have switched 110v molex connectors near the transformer.
Simply wire the switched 110v to the new P/S, then take the feed to the distro board. Extremely clean, and can now power color DMD, Amp, LED mods easily/ cleanly/ safely.
(you will need to purchase the molex connectors, etc. if you don't have them in your stash of stuff). I'll go to the shop and pull some part #'s (from Digikey or Mouser) if needed.....
Quoted from MK6PIN:P/S - http://www.meanwellusa.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=RD-125
Distro - https://www.pinballlife.com/8-way-power-splitter-board-for-stern-pinball-machines-using-whitestar-or-sam-operating-systems.html
You can grab switching 110v from either bill acceptor, modifying the aux connection in the games, powerbox, or numerous other spots that have switched 110v molex connectors near the transformer.
Simply wire the switched 110v to the new P/S, then take the feed to the distro board. Extremely clean, and can now power color DMD, Amp, LED mods easily/ cleanly/ safely.
(you will need to purchase the molex connectors, etc. if you don't have them in your stash of stuff). I'll go to the shop and pull some part #'s (from Digikey or Mouser) if needed.....
Nice! I bought one of each. The RD-125 on Ebay was about $34 shipped from Jameco, and about $30 for the splitter board shipped from PinballLife. Here is the EBay link for the PS I purchased:
ebay.com link: Mean Well RD 125B AC to DC Power Supply Dual Output 5 Volt 24 Volt 10 Amp 5a 133
I'll document all of this at PinWoofer.com in time. I'll also make the connectors available for sale with the kits in the near future unless a better solution presents itself.
Great expert advice @MK6PIN!!! Thank you!
Quoted from PinWoofer:Nice! I bought one of each. The RD-125 on Ebay was about $34 shipped from Jameco, and about $30 for the splitter board shipped from PinballLife. Here is the EBay link for the PS I purchased:
ebay.com link » Mean Well Rd 125b Ac To Dc Power Supply Dual Output 5 Volt 24 Volt 10 Amp 5a 133
I'll document all of this at PinWoofer.com in time. I'll also make the connectors available for sale with the kits in the near future unless a better solution presents itself.
Great expert advice MK6PIN!!! Thank you!
If you're gonna mod your game, it gives a lot of piece of mind ( and game doesn't get damaged). A very clean, factory type mod..Great idea to include...( Done to all of mine)
So I’ve already put aftermarket (JBL) speakers in the backbox of my ACDC premium vault.
Stock sub and currently using an external sub.
I’d like to switch to this setup as my game will be more portable and still have great bass.
My question is, do you have an option to also amplify my backbox speakers as well as the cabinet sub?
Thanks!
Quoted from chuckwurt:So I’ve already put aftermarket (JBL) speakers in the backbox of my ACDC premium vault.
Stock sub and currently using an external sub.
I’d like to switch to this setup as my game will be more portable and still have great bass.
My question is, do you have an option to also amplify my backbox speakers as well as the cabinet sub?
Thanks!
This is shifting our product road-map left a bit, but...if you're willing to wait a few days I can put a backbox amp together for you (I have everything in stock).
There will be one dedicated channel per speaker and a level control per channel.
For the tweeter you'll need something on the order of a 6.8uF to 10uF, non-polarized electrolytic cap. For the mid you'll want to be in the 50uF to 100uF range, also a non-polarized electrolytic cap. You must use a cap on the tweeter. The mid is optional but I'd strongly recommend using a cap. Below is a reference chart with generalized values. All caps need to be 100V or greater. Getting some extra caps of different values will help you experiment and tailor to your liking.
After you order I can either advise you where to get the caps yourself, or else I can order some (which might add to the lead time).
For the sub, go with our 8" kit.
This setup should rock.
Let me know if you want to move forward.
Installed my amp-only kit today! I need to clean up the wiring and take some more photos, but everything went pretty well. This was installed to an original B/W Monster Bash, which has DCS sound so it's already pretty good.
The woofer is now SUPER powerful, and is giving out some good bottom end. The installation is a bit "boom-y" but this is probably related to the original game audio and not the amp itself. I will be looking to pull back some of the mid-range so the bass can be a bit more clear.
Anyway, the install was pretty simple - the instructions are fairly straight forward on the website, and it didn't take hardly any time at all to install. Maybe 20 minutes. I still haven't routed all the wiring nicely yet, but the game is up and running!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Installed my amp-only kit today! I need to clean up the wiring and take some more photos, but everything went pretty well. This was installed to an original B/W Monster Bash, which has DCS sound so it's already pretty good.
The woofer is now SUPER powerful, and is giving out some good bottom end. The installation is a bit "boom-y" but this is probably related to the original game audio and not the amp itself. I will be looking to pull back some of the mid-range so the bass can be a bit more clear.
Anyway, the install was pretty simple - the instructions are fairly straight forward on the website, and it didn't take hardly any time at all to install. Maybe 20 minutes. I still haven't routed all the wiring nicely yet, but the game is up and running!
Well done and thanks for the feedback Rdoyle1978 !
Quoted from chuckwurt:So I’ve already put aftermarket (JBL) speakers in the backbox of my ACDC premium vault.
Stock sub and currently using an external sub.
I’d like to switch to this setup as my game will be more portable and still have great bass.
My question is, do you have an option to also amplify my backbox speakers as well as the cabinet sub?
Thanks!
OK chuckwurt I put a backbox amplifier kit together, and it tested out - it sounds great and will freakin' rock your ACDC PV!
The AMP labeled "Backbox AMP" with the blue transformers is obviously the...Backbox AMP.
Have fun - will hit your front porch Thursday. (The backbox AMP shipped in the same box as your 8" subwoofer kit.)
20190408_184253_2.jpgAnother satisfied customer here!! I originally was going to install this in my F14 which coincidentally went down at the same time of install so I moved on to one of my fav pins....Baywatch! I took my time and was in contact with Dan at PinWoofer all morning yesterday and was able to fire it up early afternoon. The sub sounds are very smooth and the base hits are so powerful it rattles the bottom of the cab 2 times harder than the shaker motor
It’s a very cool effect off the sling sounds too. The 8” sub is a tight but perfect fit...no interposer needed. Dan helped me find a spare ground/12v power source that was originally used for a printer board....no longer there but connections were tucked away and ready for use. It’s great having all the power in the cab with no extra cord outlet source needed. If it’s in the game...it’s in the game 
Besides loving my new PinWoofer the customer service from Dan was excellent for a non tech/electrical knowledgeable guy such as myself. He was super patient and answered all my questions so that I didn’t make any unneeded mistakes. He even helped me trouble shoot my F14 issue.
Thank you sir for the great product and friendly service!
EBCDED5E-C516-4703-A05A-40CEE1F7A0A0 (resized).jpeg9460D324-4E84-4C37-860E-63406B30F5B0 (resized).jpegB436DEB6-38DD-44A8-951E-733BD2E4826F (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Pinballerchef:Another satisfied customer here!! I originally was going to install this in my F14 which coincidentally went down at the same time of install so I moved on to one of my fav pins....Baywatch! I took my time and was in contact with Dan at PinWoofer all morning yesterday and was able to fire it up early afternoon. The sub sounds are very smooth and the base hits are so powerful it rattles the bottom of the cab 2 times harder than the shaker motorIt’s a very cool effect off the sling sounds too. The 8” sub is a tight but perfect fit...no interposer needed. Dan helped me find a spare ground/12v power source that was originally used for a printer board....no longer there but connections were tucked away and ready for use. It’s great having all the power in the cab with no extra cord outlet source needed. If it’s in the game...it’s in the game
Besides loving my new PinWoofer the customer service from Dan was excellent for a non tech/electrical knowledgeable guy such as myself. He was super patient and answered all my questions so that I didn’t make any unneeded mistakes. He even helped me trouble shoot my F14 issue.
Thank you sir for the great product and friendly service!
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My compliments on using the extra connectors! The original yellow speaker wires were soldered onto the factory speaker lugs; after removal, you added lugs and snapped them to male Taps. All insulated - this will prevent accidental shorting out of the sound card amp and if you sell your pin down the road, you can put it back to factory. Great install!
Lug (resized).jpgQuoted from v8torino:Munsters Pro is now Thumpinnnn !! Thanks Dan at Pinwoofer !! I got the Amp and Speaker kit installed just fine once I found the 12 Volts in the backbox of my new Stern-Spike system machine.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Great install pics v8torino and utilization of the power distribution board! Also, kudos on the heat shrink - very clean and the next guy can refer to this.
Another option might be a 0.156 3-position Molex connector.
Yep of course the 3 pin connector would be optimum,could not locate it and get it ordered .....there are soooo many different connectors,pins,headers,etc.,etc.......Anybody have the exact part #'s and availability ?
Quoted from v8torino:Yep of course the 3 pin connector would be optimum,could not locate it and get it ordered .....there are soooo many different connectors,pins,headers,etc.,etc.......Anybody have the exact part #'s and availability ?
Great Plains Electronics is solid and their website has most of what's needed for pinball connectors. Lead time is about a week. Here are their 0.156" Molex connectors:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=37
You'll need a crimping tool. I recommend the $26 Open Barrel Crimper at pinrestore.com (the Molex version is $325):
Quoted from PinWoofer:Great Plains Electronics is solid and their website has most of what's needed for pinball connectors. Lead time is about a week. Here are their 0.156" Molex connectors:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=37
You'll need a crimping tool. I recommend the $26 Open Barrel Crimper at pinrestore.com (the Molex version is $325):
http://pinrestore.com/Tools.html
I have those crimpers, they are excellent for the price. I’ve used mine for 10 years and they work great. One thing with them, if you aren’t careful you can push the wire too far through and crimp the jacket where the wires should be crimped, creating a bad connection. They take some practice.
Just put the sub amp in with the 8” dual voice sub from Pinwoofer and it’s awesome! Love how you can dial the amp up and down to your liking. More than enough power. I’d say the sweet spot for me was about 25% power on the amp volume knob and the game volume at around 40
This was for an ACDC prem vault and I couldn’t think of a better game for it!
I have some aftermarket 2 way JBL speakers for the backbox I already installed.
Dan made me another amp for the backbox speakers that I have yet to install, but should be just as easy as the sub.
The instructions were very detailed and easy to follow. I just reached out to Dan to get help and make sure I tapped power at the right spot and we were good to go!
Using the service port for power is also an option. Dan recommended to not leave the amp on all the time, so if you do that, put it on a controlled switch (I use WiFi controlled outlets).
I’ll report back once I get the backbox amp in as well!
I will say though, if you got FF already in your game, I don’t think I would dump that for this. Just a different option if your looking to upgrade stock, or eliminate a powered sub.
I take my games lots of places and this is way better than having to lug a powered sub everywhere.
I’ll report back once I have my backbox speakers on the same level as my cabinet sub.
I just like the options. Some might prefer to have the sub amp upgrade from pinwoofer, or heck, they might prefer to beef up the backbox speakers with a pinwoofer amp, then just hook up a powered sub for the extra bass.
Quoted from chuckwurt:I just like the options. Some might prefer to have the sub amp upgrade from pinwoofer, or heck, they might prefer to beef up the backbox speakers with a pinwoofer amp, then just hook up a powered sub for the extra bass.
I like tidy and efficient...this gets the job done, and more bass than I actually need...really does work well....
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