Quoted from AzureOz:

Thanks for that, good to know there is at least a little interest.
If the pcb is made smaller how does reducing height (by approx 1/4) and/or reducing width of pcb outside edge connectors effect mounting pcb and fitting J4-J6 connectors if they were slightly lower?

Quoted from MrBigg:

So after some research, I've found a couple guys that can do this on another cpu rather easy. Spoke to one Sunday, and can program a PRock board to do this for minimal costs, and even do additional lighting, and sound programming to enhance the game, or leave as is. I'll update, as I find out more, but looks like I'll have my Eros one up sooner than later.

Quoted from MrBigg:

Great idea, do you have a lead on those so I can get started on that part?

Quoted from MrBigg:

So Trident pinball will be my go to guy for the conversion, and revival process. Here's his link on Pinside, and he said you could contact him about your table, and needs.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1431-trident-pinball-homebrew/07233-diy-homebrew-kit
He does a lot of homebrew stuff like myself, and Earnie is a good guy to talk to. Hope this helps out to get those Allied tables back going again, I'll start moving forward on mine once I finish up my custom homebrew table.

Quoted from MrBigg:

Does anyone on here know where I can get my hands on schematics for an eros one pin?

Quoted from AzureOz:

Had a busy day with other obligations today. Still managed to get some time in assembling. Here is where I got up to.
[quoted image]
I still need to make up the cables needed for them but the leds and display segments all meter ok. I had to use some cutdown spare jamma connectors (don't judge), since I have not been able to grab any 25pin edge connectors at a reasonable price yet. I realised after stopping for today that I need to make a second player display to do a proper game test on the workbench. I will make that tomorrow and start making up the cables while I wait on the order for the remaining parts. All Looking good so far.

Quoted from AzureOz:

I have not heard back yet about the sale prices in the post. Anyone know if this is acceptable or more importantly is it is not (and I should not post any more prices or shipping costs in this thread), or have suggestions on what to do with moving forward on posting prices and shipping costs?
I have been going through the wiring diagrams I have been able to find online for each game. I want to see which switches are used the same in all games and which swap around or are not used on certain games. For example, outhole, ball in play are common while left and right thumper bumper and slingshots are swapped in some games.
I have info for Take Five (possibly same as Disco 79), Hearts and Spades, Roy Clark, Star Shooter. I do not have anything for Eros 1, Hoe Down, Thunderbolt, Getaway, Circa 1933.
If you are able to help and have a machine, wiring diagram or know the test mode switch numbers and matching playfield switch for specific games, it would be great if you could post them. A bit more time consuming to record, however, I think the switch numbers are also printed on the bottom of the playfield next to each switch.
Once I have the info I will put it into a table and post it. This will help with people troubleshooting individual games. It will help when I start looking at the code to try and add an attract mode. Here is a quick copy from part of it. Once the full logic flow is worked out people could even make their own playfields to suit the ALI game code.
[quoted image]
I have also started to put together a troubleshooting table that I will be sharing. For each switch, lamp or coil driver, it lists all components and IC pin numbers from PIA/RIOT to the connector pin.
The current 1st spin prototype was running on the bench over the weekend and now for over 3 days continuously in burn-in test mode and it is still running happily. I am in the workshop today hoping to do some work on the other projects (so I can place the next pcb order), so I will stop the burn-in testing.

Quoted from AzureOz:

Thanks, something is going on with Coin #3.
It reads all switches in test mode, but in game mode Coin #3 does not credit. I have checked the pcb schematic and wiring and jumpers on the pcb and everything is correct. I can see the game code reads the switch when it is pressed, the game over lamp blinking changes.
I have had the scope on the Coin #3 pins through the buffers and on the appropriate PIA and RIOT pins and the signal looks ok and is the same as the other Coin inputs, which work. Have been looking at the code and not spotted anything yet.
All game play appears ok and every other switch, lamp, coil and setting appears to work as expected.
I went and tested an original board in the same test setup and it works. So need to look into it more and figure it out.

Quoted from natgreystar:

I found an Eros One recently and it's in amazing condition but play is finicky. It worked but after moving it from the workshop to its game room home I have issues. I went looking and found this thread. All of the original parts on mine are in great condition including the displays so I'd love to just swap out the MPU and not have to worry about this thing going bad on me. I haven't finished restoration on it but it would be awesome to guarantee it won't die off and actually play flawlessly before I finish up.
Sent a PM. Hope I can get a repro board.

Quoted from MrBigg:

Do you think it's possible to replace that board for a newer 5v power supply? Like a meanwell?

Quoted from mappy_mouse:

Also no response to PM'S.