I have lots of parts for Allied. Lots of MPU boards, the custom 6530's (tested/working). I have large original schematics too. Those scaled down copies are awful.

I've parted out several playfields and have one working game left (Take Five).

Let me know if anyone needs anything.

My opinion on a replacement boardset is to just do away with the whole wiring arrangement and start over. Trying to stay compatible to the cabinet wiring - the 3 large 25 pin edge connectors plus the 3 oddball (NLA) AMP connectors for coils is just silly. Once a game is converted over there's not going to be any reason to go back to the factory MPU. If if were me, I'd make it compatible to the harness thats on the playfield (they were made to be easily swapped) and go from there. Or go with a playfield-mounted electronics (something like OPP's small boards http://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php/OPP or FAST's setup) to read switches and drive lamps directly. Backwards compatibility makes no sense once a replacement setup is installed. The biggest pain is that the lamps and switches both are non matrixed. Lots of I/O. Then again, the playfields are small and simple.

The lamp driver IC's are long obsolete and do fail. 75492's, I think - I can't remember.

The reset circuitry is not great. I usually install a Dallas/Maxim reset IC to upgrade it.

A plug in CPU socket module could be developed but the overall board quality isn't great so you're then stuck with that. Especially the early "E" series boards, the "H" series are better. 2 of the 3 mask programmed 6530's are also used as I/O, so those would need to have an adapter made for those as well (likely adapting to a 6821 and then driving accordingly in the new CPU software).

If I'm rewriting the software I'd just as soon have better hardware and boards to run it on...

They'll still need to adapt the p-roc with electronics to handle the non matrixed switches and lamps. The displays likely will need some conditioning too.

Seems like a lot of hardware ($ cost) for a simple Allied cocktail game.

- PC
- p-roc
- adapter PCB with stuffed components for switch conditioning and/or lamp drivers. Best bet is have the adapter PCB also have the card edge fingers on it rather than wiring up jamma adapters. And modifying the oddball AMP solenoid drive connectors that are no longer available.

Seems like more than $400 to me.

Modernized it really isn't... ever played an Allied cocktail? I've owned several, still have a Take Five and Eeros One. Hearts and Spades is the best Allied cocktail title, by far. They're interesting for what they are but are still a cocktail pinball. And the nylon flipper and drop target parts have an odd feel to them.

I'm just saying that putting all that into an Allied cocktail probably isn't what most people would consider a good investment. Maybe OPP is a better choice.

That was constructive. p-roc is not the way to go on Allied. Throwing that much hardware on such a simple game is not a good solution.

No need to get testy.