Only comment I have is "You Rawk!" OH, and do you ever sleep? My eyes would be crossed by now staring at that for so long.

Anything I can do for you from here? Any more info, measurements, pictures, etc you need?

Thanks, your words of encouragement help a lot and help to keep me motivated on this project. It is nice to know there is interest in this and I'm not doing it all for nothing and just talking into a void.
On the technical front, all good for the moment, thank you. I have lots to build and test in front of me. Got started on the J1-J3 Test modules before I called it a night on the workbench.

I'm as excited as you are, and being a super nerd, I love watching the process. Your tech skills are very inspiring, and helps me with the things I encounter on my homebrew to keep me going too. I'm waiting on aviation connectors to finish my wiring harness, and trying to make brackets to get my sound card triggering off my other switches. Then I'll be testing myself.

There absolutely is interest and you are no where near talking into a void.
Myself and others have enjoyed watching the process.
Many thanks for what you're doing.
-Mike

Amazing work, perseverance, Inspirational, I wish I had a 1/10th of the knowledge you have. Thank you for the time and effort you have put into producing this so people can get there ALI / fascination machines operational again.

Myself personally would be in for 2 definitely, maybe even 3 of these boards, I have been looking at getting more table top Pinballs, and this is the perfect reason to do it.

Thanks, it is good to hear from people about it. I am hoping in the next several days (after the remainder of the parts on order arrive) I should be able to confirm that the board is operational or be working on any problems that come up. I am working on the test boards now and will then move onto the displays, followed by test cables to connect those up. Will post more pics and info as soon as those have reached a useful stage, the complete set of blank pcbs are in the earlier pics posted.

Had a busy day with other obligations today. Still managed to get some time in assembling. Here is where I got up to.
IMG_9057 (resized).jpg
I still need to make up the cables needed for them but the leds and display segments all meter ok. I had to use some cutdown spare jamma connectors (don't judge), since I have not been able to grab any 25pin edge connectors at a reasonable price yet. I realised after stopping for today that I need to make a second player display to do a proper game test on the workbench. I will make that tomorrow and start making up the cables while I wait on the order for the remaining parts. All Looking good so far.

WOW! That's absolutely incredible. That is a pretty impressive talent you have there. Many of us would be blessed to have half that skill!

That looks fantastic! Great job on all of those. I no longer have any ALI machines but there are a lot of people that really need these to get their games running again.

Wow... I am glad someone knows how to do this. This is way over my head. Keep up the great work. I can't wait to get one of these from you.

Jay

Well, a few things happened today. Remember I said, I would report on the build and test warts and all....
I finished building the 2 display and test board prototypes. Here are some pics.
J1,J2 and J3 Lamp and switch test cards
IMG_9061 (resized).jpg
Player and Score Displays
IMG_9062 (resized).jpg
J4-6 Coil test card
IMG_9063 (resized).jpg
Then, some parts arrived. How great is that! So, I finished assembling the main pcb. Here it is with all components now loaded.
IMG_9064 (resized).jpg
I decided to, as quickly as I could, make up a test harness. Here is what I worked out on paper what it should be like.
ALI Repro test wiring setup (resized).jpg
Then I decided... time to give it a try. Here is a link to a short video of me giving it it's first full power on test. Excuse the handheld video while I was trying to keep the board and display in frame and press the buttons by feel (I couldn't see them properly).

Wow, it appears to work.... whoever had any doubt....

Now, the problems found along the way (found before I did this video play test):
It turns out these errors are on the prototype test boards, main board is still ok except the few trace mods already posted;
No power and spark detect connections on J! cannot have LEDs on them, the biasing to 5v causes them to activate. I have cut the traces to those LED's on the J1 Test PCB. I will add jumpers to selectively disable those LED's on the respin;
The score and credit display digits are back to front (least significant is on the right). I will not try and rewire that (for now), just need to read it left to right while I do more testing, I will correct this on the display respins.

The good news:
The game resets nicely and initializes the displays;
I can credit up and start a game;
On a quick test it appears I can play a game;
Game play tested using one, two and four players.
Player and Ball LED's work correctly;
Roll tilt blanks the current player display and stops play until the ball returns to the outhole;
Slam resets the game but holds the credits that were there;
Lamps and Colls on J6 activate during the game. I still have to wire J4 and J5 as I ran out of time today;
I can start test mode. Display test and switch tests work but Lamp and Coil test do not appear to be working - will look into this one, as the lamps and coils activate during play.

To Do Next:
Finish the J4 and J5 test cables so I can check the other coil/lamp outputs;
Figure out what is going on in test mode;
Check the switch numbers reported against games I have documented switch info on;
Keep updating my revision notes for changes to do on the next respin;
Do more testing....

Hope you are all as happy with this progress as I am. I will need to do (at least) another spin of the boards, but I am very happy with the results so far of this first prototype spin, so far with just a few wire mods it is a working repro of the ALI main board using more modern and available components.
Please post any comments, feedback or suggestions, it is all very welcomed and helps to keep me going on this project, which has been quite an undertaking.

I recall, that the cocktail games, when booted, the game over lamp would blink.

Thanks for that info, you are correct from my memory as well. The game over is on J4, I had only connected J6, I think I said J4 in a previous post, it was J6 as in the video and pics, I have corrected the previous post.

Some shots so you can zoom in under the playfield if need be. Thought it might help

received_1076382399910790 (resized).jpeg

received_1139855376740203 (resized).jpeg

received_5714228015296348 (resized).jpeg

Progress update. Skip to end if you are not intrested in the details.
After a lot of wading through the original schematics, my schematics, boolean logic required for 6530 timer, my code dissassembly of the ROMS, I came to the conclusion it all appears correct and should work. So why it is not getting past test 06? I also did some scope testing on the 6530 logic to do with the timer and it all looked ok.
Thinking on how to move forward, maybe I should verify the test cards, just in case. So I plugged in an original working board and everything worked ok, play and all tests.
Finally the penny dropped. There is a circuit on the original pcb that stops you from pressing the credit (start game) once you are at ball 2 or later, while on ball1 pressing credit will add more players. This circuit used a not so common 7425, which I replaced with some standard logic and spare gates that were on the board already. Side note, there is a bug in the original hardware (which I have kept), once you start playing on ball 1 for any number of players, pressing credit once the ball is in play will reset back to a new game, only while on ball 1.
Well as it turns out there is an exception built into the circuit, which my replacement did not allow for. In test mode 06 all ball lamps are turned on and my circuit change was doing what I designed and not letting the credit press do anything. A quick change to the circuit and applying that mod to main pcb allowed it to pass test 06.
So here is the board setup on the bench with the mod and running.
ALI Mk1 Progress Update (resized).jpg
To make testing easier, I have done mods to the Player 1 Score and Credit Displays, digits show in the correct direction.
I have compared all the test mode results between the original and the Repro and it is almost identical. I will look into the 2 minor differences I found.
The good news, I think the main pcb is now 100% working. I will do some more checking after reviewing my notes on game play, pinout details and code disassembly. I have several notes on changes to make, most are fairly quick so it should not take too long.
In the meantime, here is a quick video of me putting the board (and test boards) through a game play and test sequence.

I also have a quick question. The cost of this board is going to be tough. It contains all game logic (CPU, ROM, RAM, I/O), display driver, switch sensing, lamp and coil drivers on one pcb. As this board is getting very close now, I am thinking of making it available as follows:
1. Repro Mk1 PCB only (You source parts and assemble);
2. Repro Mk1 PCB + kit of some parts like EPROM and some other parts to be determined (you source remainder and assemble);
3. Repro Mk1 PCB + kit containing most parts, not including ic sockets, CPU, RIOT's or PIA's (you source remainder and assemble);
4. Repro Mk1 PCB Assembled and tested with most components, excluding CPU, RIOT's or PIA's.

Price will vary according to parts and labor required (these will be hand assembled). I think there will be different skills, needs and budgets. Can you let me know which option might be of interest to you (prices yet to be determined).

As always, comments, suggestions or feedback are very welcome.

I feel like most would just like to pop these cards in and play. When I'm restoring a pin, or need to get one up and running, I buy ready to go cards, i.e. alltek, weebly, robotworks, etc. The fact that I have the skills to solder one together, I just don't have the time. I work full time, have grandkids, chores, etc. Pinball gets very small windows.
I had stated previously in this thread, that I would go the arduino route, if this didn't come to pass. Which for just a cpu issue, still isn't a bad route.
So for me personally, I would just want a finished, ready to plug up card to pop in, turn on, and play.

I would be interested in option 2 or 3 depending on parts required

Thanks for that.
I have no problem making up complete tested boards. Would you be ok to transfer the PIA's from your other board?
I will probably do the pcb/kit for people that do want to assemble it themselves.
I am thinking an assembled and tested version (all socketed ic's) and the larger IC's (CPU, PIA's, RIOT's) as options, so you can get exactly what suits your need.

For your specific situation I will be doing some final testing on the 6502 to 6504 Adapter (I have used it already, just need to do a little more testing) and will then make it available. If just your CPU is gone, that is all you will need at a fraction of the price of a whole repro pcb.

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For anyone interested, here is the correction to the 7425 replacement. This fixed the unable to advance past test 06 problem.
ALI 74LS25 Replacement Mod (resized).jpg

The pdf in that same post should give you an idea of parts needed for the repro pcb if you are considering a kit.

I would consider any version (depending on price of course)

Yes, only my cpu is missing. But I'm not sure I understand which peripheral adapter your referring to?
I have power supply, wiring harness, both score intact, and the player/ball count intact.
Other than main card robbed for another machine, I should be in business.

Possible confusion over terminology. I thought you meant just the 28pin 6504 IC was missing. If it is the, 6502 to 6504 Adapter I mentioned would replace the missing 6504.
If the whole ALI Main PCB (that plugs into J1-J6) is missing, then you need the repro board I have been posting info on.
I am currently working out component prices to get an idea of what it will cost for me to get the parts and be able to sell kits or assembled units.

I have costed up all parts with price breaks needed to build 10 complete units (including parts shipping) at a time using Digikey and an arcade parts supplier for the special IC's (the ones running in the prototype). There are some parts that should be able to be priced better but this gives a fairly good idea.
Here is a breakdown of the parts in groups:
Standard IC's US$30
Semi's (Transistors, Diodes) US$35
Passives (Resistors, Capacitors) US$30
Hardware (Headers, sockets, Connectors) US$58
PCB, Assembly and Testing US$125
Special IC's US$80
Total US$358 Complete, Assembled and Tested, shipping not included.

EDIT: Price updated (lowered) using alternate source, see later post #334 for details.

I personally wish it was cheaper but there are a lot of pricy parts that add up on this all-in-one ALI pcb. Let me know if this seems ok, for a complete ready to plug in assembled and tested unit, or if we need to try and find vastly cheaper parts suppliers. I will make the PCB only and some forms of parts kit available as well.

Gotta be cheaper than a pinsound board.

Mate, you are a marvel.

My whole board is missing, only wires laying in the cabinet.
I'll definitely have to wait before I could afford that. There is definitely a huge price jump in just the past year in parts.
That still isn't horrible, just out of my budget at the moment. Maybe at a later date. Ty, and appreciate the hard work.
That's probably over $400 after shipping?

I am in for 1 and possibly 2.

Not a bad price for an all in 1 assembled and working otherwise unobtainable board.

Expected about twice that amount, considering all the work you've done.

I am in for 1 fully assembled and tested. Option 4

Thank you

Jay

Thanks for that, appreciate it.
I would like to be making some more per unit to contribute to the amount of time, effort and expense I have put into making this and the other test and display boards. I chose to try and keep the price as low as I can in the hope of selling several to save some of these machines, rather than setting it to high and possibly only selling a few.

Based on posts in the next few days we will see if there is any chance of that happening.

I'll take a couple just in case, i think mate, will send you a pm to work out the $au price. Gotta be a reward in it for you somewhere.

The bloke who got me really going in business told me the same thing.

Garry, you can either price something at what you think people will pay maximum and sell a few, or price them at just enough pprofit to be able to stay in business and sell many.

Both work out to be about the same income, but one is more ethical than the other.

Thank you for choosing the ethical, if only we could get some of these mod makers to see the truth of it.....$2000 toppers

Thanks for the kind words, that makes a difference to me.

Some good news, it looks like if I source what I can from LCSC, the price changes in a good way.
Here is the updated breakdown, sourcing what I can from LCSC.
Here is a breakdown of the parts in groups:
Standard IC's US$25
Semi's (Transistors, Diodes) US$15
Passives (Resistors, Capacitors) US$5
Hardware (Headers, sockets, Connectors) US$45
PCB, Assembly and Testing US$125
Special IC's US$80
Total US$295 for a complete, Assembled and Tested unit, ready to plug in and power on, shipping not included.

So, this lower price is based on using whatever brand component I can source from LCSC. I do not see any problems with using these chinese brand parts where possible to lower the cost. In fact, this is mostly what I have used in the prototype (together with parts I already had). This price requires me to purchase up front enough components in 1 order to build at least 10 units in order to get some component price breaks.

The big ticket items left are the 3 pcb mount harness sockets and the specialty ic's.

Let's go with this lower price of US$295 and hope it helps save more of these lovely ALI pinballs. For anyone purchasing in Australia, as well as currency conversion, the price will need to include GST.

Please let me know if you would be interested in purchasing a complete, ready to go, plug-in ALI Repro Mk1 for US$295 plus shipping. If you would like a different option or kit please indicate what sort of configuration you would like so I can see if I can work something out.

This will only proceed at this price if I get enough interest to move forward.

I will try and work out and post some shipping costs over the weekend when I have time to measure and weigh up the current prototype.

incoming.

Thanks, replied.

Sent you a message. In for 2 plug and play at that price.

Thanks, that is great news. I will be in touch once I work out the shipping costs.

Keep in mind I still need to do the updated pcb, which I am hoping will be the release version. If it has any problems, I will still need to fix that first.

As of today, I have been playing with the currently built prototype and had it running for several hours at a time each day in test mode, and it appears to be running nicely without any issues. So, while it is looking good, I don't want to be overconfident and jinx myself, the plan is still to make sure the next pcb is good before releasing it.

Good idea guys… Put me down for 2 ready to go.

I'm in for 2 plug and play.

Your effort and time is very much appreciated, if only there were more of you out there for the hobby and not the $$$$$$$$$$$.

I will send you a PM.

P.M Sent.

Thanks, Replied.

I have put together a list of those interested to keep track.

Just to be clear, I am in it for both. I will give a lot , but at the end of the day I do need to make something from somethings

My apologies if I worded my post wrong.

I do realize that you have to make money on them, it wasn't meant to sound like you were doing it for nothing.

All good, no apology needed, just didn't want you to start thinking I was a total saint

Azure - amazed at how fast this has come together and how awesome your work as been. I've been watching some of these threads for years and it feels like you went from idea to production in light speed.

I'm in for one to review my Take Five - happy to pay now if it helps you source parts etc.

Also - I've been buying Pin2DMDs from the RetroCity guys in your neck of the woods - they're able to ship a wholly packed DMD air freight to the US for like $36 (less per unit if you buy multiples). If you're having any issues with shipping, it might be worth giving them a ring.

One question, has the board been tested for a four player game?
"Disco 79" is a four player game.

Very good question, yes. There are no code changes, so software is fine. I routed out the display clock, and player select pins for 2 or 4 players. I have played on the test bench in both 2 and 4 player modes. The score displays and test harness I made (only assembled 2 score units) let me select which of the 4 player scores to show. I have checked all 4 player score displays in play mode, test mode and during burn-in.

PS The original code has many assumptions. One is, if there is no jumper from J1-T to J1-19 for 2 players or J1-T to J1-20 for 4 players the game will allow you to keep pressing the credit button to add a player while there are credits left. I am not sure what it does to the game code as the memory only supports scores for 4 players.

I have had the current prototype running all weekend in the burn-in test mode (the one after test 09). It has run nicely, without any problems, resets or hanging, I have also started a game a couple of times over the weekend to make sure it played a game ok and then put it back to burn-in.

Things are looking good, hopefully if I properly correct the few address line errors I made in the 1st spin prototype, the next spin of the MkI board is ready for release. I will be making another change to a larger size 28pin EPROM and a jumper to select between original and modified code. This allows people with current programmers to easily be able to burn new EPROM images (when I get to that stage) and these larger EPROMs are easier to source.

I have worked out some prices for shipping, but I will hold off posting them at the moment. I read the site terms, and putting prices up in these posts (for upcoming sales) may be against the usage terms on pinside, I may need to use the marketplace. I may also need to pay them a fee of some sort, which I have not allowed for. I have sent pinside a message to clarify things, so will hold off on any more posts about pricing or postage until that is clarified.

Will keep posting about design, development, testing, progress and respond to any posts.