So Trident pinball will be my go to guy for the conversion, and revival process. Here's his link on Pinside, and he said you could contact him about your table, and needs.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1431-trident-pinball-homebrew/07233-diy-homebrew-kit
He does a lot of homebrew stuff like myself, and Earnie is a good guy to talk to. Hope this helps out to get those Allied tables back going again, I'll start moving forward on mine once I finish up my custom homebrew table.
Quoted from MrBigg:So if you aren't in, then be out, or offer something constructive please
That was constructive. p-roc is not the way to go on Allied. Throwing that much hardware on such a simple game is not a good solution.
No need to get testy.
Quoted from MrBigg:So Trident pinball will be my go to guy for the conversion, and revival process. Here's his link on Pinside, and he said you could contact him about your table, and needs.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1431-trident-pinball-homebrew/07233-diy-homebrew-kit
He does a lot of homebrew stuff like myself, and Earnie is a good guy to talk to. Hope this helps out to get those Allied tables back going again, I'll start moving forward on mine once I finish up my custom homebrew table.
I used to have an EROS I and was looking at alternative brains until I fixed the original MPU.
If I had to do something again today I would look towards the Arduino. I think there is a generic version of the Arduino controller. Should be considerably less that something that requires a PC. There is more information on this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/arduino-pinball-controller
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I used to have an EROS I and was looking at alternative brains until I fixed the original MPU.
If I had to do something again today I would look towards the Arduino. I think there is a generic version of the Arduino controller. Should be considerably less that something that requires a PC. There is more information on this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/arduino-pinball-controller
Good advice, and we are looking at 3 options at the moment. The Arduino, raspberry pi, and another generic controller. Nothing set in stone yet, but there are a few ways to make this happen. The original cpu was robbed out years ago for another unit.
Looks like we will be going with the Cobra pin method, and moving forward on the project. LEDs will be used in GI areas, and game mode lighting as well. New sounds, and we'll probably ditch the chimes in the game altogether. I'll start tracing and labeling wiring soon, and begin getting ready for the transplant. I'll update, as they come in for those interested in getting any allied games back going.
Quoted from MrBigg:Does anyone on here know where I can get my hands on schematics for an eros one pin?
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=3738
You can also check each of the other Allied Leisure machines for better schematics.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=3738
You can also check each of the other Allied Leisure machines for better schematics.
Thank you very much
Does anybody know if Eros-1 and Circa 1933 use the same ROMs? Eros has a little diverter thingy that Circa does not.
I have both Eros and Circa, the Eros does not have an MPU, the Circa does. Its non-working though. I prefer the Eros playfield and if the MPU can be fixed, would swap it over.
Quoted from mamawaldee:Does anybody know if Eros-1 and Circa 1933 use the same ROMs? Eros has a little diverter thingy that Circa does not.
I have both Eros and Circa, the Eros does not have an MPU, the Circa does. Its non-working though. I prefer the Eros playfield and if the MPU can be fixed, would swap it over.
The cpu is programed with only one system.
Note: be careful!!! The coin door switch wires feed into one of the custom RROIT.
------ Static shock is known to blow these ICs up.
Quoted from Q_Big:Prototype but not testet yet, the Orginal 1987 Build have Problems that musst fixed before. But nö readable Shematics, Boggie is not a Cocktail.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Due to a lack of time, I stopped the project and have since sold the cabinet.
This was not yet executable for me, but it should be possible for someone with logic knowledge and the necessary motivation to complete it.However, I have drawn the circuit from the working solution from 1987 so far - here and there there will still be an error in the PCB, my solder bridges or my MPU. (One error is e.g. the missing voltage of the LS chips on the IO boards, which has to be created with a wire jumper, but is the only one I noticed.).
But since I still have all the documentation, I decided to put the documents online here after requests from the forum:
Primarily:
Secured Eprom
EasyEDA files with PCB and componentsSomeone in the know should get this to work.
Mangels Zeit habe ich das Projekt eingestellt und das Cabinet inzwischen verkauft.
Dieses war bei mir abschließend noch nicht lauffähig, sollte aber für jemanden mit Logikenntnissen und der nötigen Motivation fertigzustellen sein.
Die aus der funktionierenden Lösung von 1987 Schaltung habe ich jedoch soweit fertig gezeichnet,- hier und da wird jedoch noch ein Fehler im PCB, meiner Lötbrücken oder meiner MPU sein. (Ein Fehler ist z.B. die fehlende Spannung der LS Chips auf dem IO-Boards, welche per Drahtbrücke hergestellt werden muss, ist jedoch der einzige der mir aufgefallen ist.).
Da ich aber alle Dokumentationen noch habe, habe ich mich nach Anfragen aus dem Forum hier entschlossen die Unterlagen online zu stellen:
In erster Linie:
Gesichertes Eprom
EasyEDA Files mit PCB und Bauteilen
Jemand der sich auskennt sollte dies zum Arbeiten bekommen.
!!
DOWNLOADS EPROM AND SHEMATIC
EasyEDA Files,- you can export easy for PCB Way or other:
!!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/15DpJPFN0525IQqIuPL7zxGcZIGEN99yj/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1izbEO2R0E9Q95UkkHaoENq3hhQZunRtA/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vj1q9XIfaFRrLgIbvxBb8XRW5AF2NU_H/view?usp=sharing
0babf4ec0c9ea3694ce9ef060370795913cfce4f (resized).jpg2e984f4f186ff4ad4b4a87f5564004e67450f0bb (resized).jpg4988db6b1cc58be1e01d36a3a940cb8d7f995cad (resized).jpgb973ca5d676510584a416ea180e69044be4837d0 (resized).jpgcf26b79af089288675d6f990e301c1750e2d0e7b (resized).jpg
Schematic_IO Logic_2022-10-30.pdfSchematic_cpu board fertig_2022-10-30.pdf
I´ve forgotten:
Edit 1:
You have to cut 7 Traces from the CPU Socket and reconnect these by Jumperwires.
Lock at the Picture and the Pinout of the CPU to identify them,- I don´t remember very well 
The Pin "CON1" on the CPU PCB goes directly to the Trace "Pin16" from the 6504. You have to cut this Pin on CPU Side.
CPU Pins from Adapterboard like "IRQ" "Res" etc, are missed in the Shematic,- but connected over the long Adaptersocketpins.
In my first PCB is an Error and VCC not Connected to the LS260.
Edit 2:
The Customchips "6530" are replaced by the standart PIAs "6520". But this is possible,- the ROM and RAM of the Customs is replaced externaland added directly on the CPU Adapter Board.
Quoted from mspaeth:This won't work.
You can (probably) replace IC6 with a 6520/6820/6821, since the RAM and ROM are on the CPU card, but you can't do that with IC5, since the 6520 doesn't have the timer functionality.
You shouldn't need IC3 at all since the IO isn't used.
But remember, this Customfix is from 1987 on my MPU Board that worked nealy 2018.
All 3 6530s are replaced by 6520s,- look the Pictures,- the Year 1987 is realistic too.
(The wrong Label on the RAM IC is my Fault,- it is very not a 16K IC...)
1987 (resized).jpg19871 (resized).jpg19872 (resized).jpg19873 (resized).jpg19874 (resized).jpg19875 (resized).jpg
!!
DOWNLOAD EPROM AND SHEMATIC
EasyEDA Files,- can easily be used for e.g. PCB Way:
!!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/15DpJPFN0525IQqIuPL7zxGcZIGEN99yj/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1izbEO2R0E9Q95UkkHaoENq3hhQZunRtA/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vj1q9XIfaFRrLgIbvxBb8XRW5AF2NU_H/view?usp=sharing
Perhaps someone with experience can take a look at the eprom and determine the function.
The PCBs can be ordered immediately from PCB Way after import/export in EasyEDA. The components used can be found in the circuit diagrams.
The CPU socket is plated through the CPU board and must have long pins to piggyback the board onto the CPU socket of the original MPU.
2 problems you have to solve yourself:
1. The 7 additional jumper cables and separating the traces from the CPU socket directly on the original MPU. (But that should be the case if you compare the pinout of the 6520 ICs with the 6530)
2. The PCBs may still have 1 to 2 layout errors.
The original jumper cables will probably be removed.
Quoted from daddy:Is someone in the process of making and selling a working board? I see a lot of progress.
It appears from what I've read, they are giving up, and have moved on.
I'm still busy on a homebrew build, but will be doing an arduino version later to get mine going.
I would rather have a real cpu for this, but alas it doesn't look like it has grabbed anyone to just copy one, and get it done. Seems everyone that's tried, keeps wanting to make a bigger, faster, stronger version rather than just build a copy that works?
Quoted from Billc479:I’ve got an AL board set that I’ve asked if anyone has an idea of what I should sell the set for.
I guess make a reasonable offer?
I have an eros one, will that work in it?
Quoted from MrBigg:I have an eros one, will that work in it?
All of the Allied Leisure cocktail MPU boards work in all of the cocktail games and in their Getaway upright and I think the Roy Clark upright. They don't work in the Dynomite/Boogie/etc earlier upright games.
The cocktail boards all have the same software and they work in both 2 player or 4 player cabinets. There is a jumper in the wiring harness that lets the MPU board know if it supposed to be 2 or 4 players.
There are at least 2 revisions of the cocktail MPU board. The original one has more chips and has keep warm resistors on the lamp circuits that need to be cut off to install LED's. The later revision eliminated the resistors and also all of the unused test circuit tranistors.
Best bet for this type of project is going to be a single replacement board from scratch with the code rewritten. Hard part would be to make sure you capture all of the rules so that the code works for every game like the original since some games don't have the gate and at least 1 has 8 drop targets instead of 4.
Quoted from kbliznick:All of the Allied Leisure cocktail MPU boards work in all of the cocktail games and in their Getaway upright and I think the Roy Clark upright. They don't work in the Dynomite/Boogie/etc earlier upright games.
The cocktail boards all have the same software and they work in both 2 player or 4 player cabinets. There is a jumper in the wiring harness that lets the MPU board know if it supposed to be 2 or 4 players.
There are at least 2 revisions of the cocktail MPU board. The original one has more chips and has keep warm resistors on the lamp circuits that need to be cut off to install LED's. The later revision eliminated the resistors and also all of the unused test circuit tranistors.
Best bet for this type of project is going to be a single replacement board from scratch with the code rewritten. Hard part would be to make sure you capture all of the rules so that the code works for every game like the original since some games don't have the gate and at least 1 has 8 drop targets instead of 4.
Are these revised boards available to buy? Is there a source to get ahold of one for my eros?
Quoted from MrBigg:Are these revised boards available to buy? Is there a source to get ahold of one for my eros?
What I was talking about was a factory revision back in 1979 or so. There were a couple different versions of the MPU board but the nice thing was is that they are all backward and forward compatible for every 6830 based game that ALI made.
So far nobody that I know has ever finished a replacement project board for the ALI games. Not enough demand for the value of the machines vs the cost of development but we are getting closer to that being. You'd think by now that someone would have released a universal all in 1 board project that is easy to program for these early state 1 ball solid state games. Spooky pinball was thinking about offering their AMH system 1 board for $400 for this type of retrofit but that never came to fruition.
Hi,
Just wanted to give an update. I have not given up on this project (repro ALI main board) but did take some time out from working on the actual design (and other projects). During that time, I have still thought about the project and considered several factors:
The cost to produce this size pcb is high;
The cost to populate this board as a 100% repro is very high;
Several IC's are expensive and very hard to source.
Given these factors there would probably not be many (only a few very committed real keen) takers for the current pcb design. It would be expensive for me to prototype and test these given what I think would be a very low uptake when the cost to populate a complete board is considered.
Remember, for the ALI compared to other pinballs this pcb is the cpu, switch, display, lamp and solenoid driver all in one pcb. On top of that this pcb does not use any matrix drivers for the lamps or switches, so the parts count is higher. Given this I feel a repro that involves some changes might be more useful. This is without changing the game code, as I feel that should stay original.
So, I have added the following objectives for changes to the pcb (let's call it repro Mk1):
1. Replace the 6504 with a 6502 (still allow an alternative overlayed socket footprint to fit a 6504 as a build option);
2. Replace the three 6530's RRIOT's (IC3, IC5, IC6) with one 2732 EPROM and 2 x 6532's RIOT's (and some discrete decoding logic);
3. Replace the expensive hard to get 75492 driver IC's with currently manufactured and available 75452 IC's;
4. Look for a suitable (current) replacement for the MPS6531 transistors;
5. Consolidate unused gates in buffer and driver IC's to reduce total IC's (I can already see about 7 IC's that are candidates);
6. Replace the setting jumpers, use jumper blocks or dip switches to make it less messy (but still large board space);
6. Reduce board size as much as possible;
7. For this version it would stay with original firmware (no software modifications).
For a further improvement it will need changes to the firmware (let's call it repro Mk2):
1. Change cumbersome jumper settings for another solution, possibly using NVRAM and settings via coin door switches;
2. Add some basic self-test on power up utilizing the on-board LED's and displays for indicating self-test faults;
3. Add saving high score if NVRAM used;
4. Look at better I/O protection circuitry for inputs where needed.
5. Further reduce board size (with jumper setting area mostly removed).
I am still pondering about the 75452's. They are currently manufactured and available from reputable supplies like Digikey. Each IC has only 2 drivers, but they are rated better than the 75492's. There are 32 lamp drivers (used) in the final revision ALI PCB. So, this would require 16 of these alternative drivers IC's. I think it is still an easier solution than the hard to get original 75492's or the other option I am considering of using 32 buffer gates and 32 transistors along with associated resisters.
Things completed since last update posted:
Added the 6502 IC;
Changed the connectors for J4-J6 to the correct (original) pcb footprint (which are pricey but still available from Digikey);
Reviewed the code firmware (for I/O and memory addresses actually used) and chip hardware decoding to work out initial decoding for the replacement 6532's.
Added 2732 EPROM to schematic;
Commenced schematic changes to replace 6530's with 6532's.
In summary, Mk1 would be a little smaller, use available parts, cheaper to build and complete pcb and still be 100% firmware compatible with an original pcb. Mk2 is about changing the way settings are done and adding some features and requires changes to the firmware.
Comments on any of the above are most welcome. I will continue on Mk1 and hopefully post more info shortly.
Edit: I almost forgot. I have had the first prototpye pcb's made to plug into the edge connectors to help test the lamps and switches.
Quoted from AzureOz:Hi,
Just wanted to give an update. I have not given up on this project (repro ALI main board) but did take some time out from working on the actual design (and other projects). During that time, I have still thought about the project and considered several factors:
The cost to produce this size pcb is high;
The cost to populate this board as a 100% repro is very high;
Several IC's are expensive and very hard to source.
Given these factors there would probably not be many (only a few very committed real keen) takers for the current pcb design. It would be expensive for me to prototype and test these given what I think would be a very low uptake when the cost to populate a complete board is considered.
Remember, for the ALI compared to other pinballs this pcb is the cpu, switch, display, lamp and solenoid driver all in one pcb. On top of that this pcb does not use any matrix drivers for the lamps or switches, so the parts count is higher. Given this I feel a repro that involves some changes might be more useful. This is without changing the game code, as I feel that should stay original.
So, I have added the following objectives for changes to the pcb (let's call it repro Mk1):
1. Replace the 6504 with a 6502 (still allow an alternative overlayed socket footprint to fit a 6504 as a build option);
2. Replace the three 6530's RRIOT's (IC3, IC5, IC6) with one 2732 EPROM and 2 x 6532's RIOT's (and some discrete decoding logic);
3. Replace the expensive hard to get 75492 driver IC's with currently manufactured and available 75452 IC's;
4. Look for a suitable (current) replacement for the MPS6531 transistors;
5. Consolidate unused gates in buffer and driver IC's to reduce total IC's (I can already see about 7 IC's that are candidates);
6. Replace the setting jumpers, use jumper blocks or dip switches to make it less messy (but still large board space);
6. Reduce board size as much as possible;
7. For this version it would stay with original firmware (no software modifications).
For a further improvement it will need changes to the firmware (let's call it repro Mk2):
1. Change cumbersome jumper settings for another solution, possibly using NVRAM and settings via coin door switches;
2. Add some basic self-test on power up utilizing the on-board LED's and displays for indicating self-test faults;
3. Add saving high score if NVRAM used;
4. Look at better I/O protection circuitry for inputs where needed.
5. Further reduce board size (with jumper setting area mostly removed).
I am still pondering about the 75452's. They are currently manufactured and available from reputable supplies like Digikey. Each IC has only 2 drivers, but they are rated better than the 75492's. There are 32 lamp drivers (used) in the final revision ALI PCB. So, this would require 16 of these alternative drivers IC's. I think it is still an easier solution than the hard to get original 75492's or the other option I am considering of using 32 buffer gates and 32 transistors along with associated resisters.
Things completed since last update posted:
Added the 6502 IC;
Changed the connectors for J4-J6 to the correct (original) pcb footprint (which are pricey but still available from Digikey);
Reviewed the code firmware (for I/O and memory addresses actually used) and chip hardware decoding to work out initial decoding for the replacement 6532's.
Added 2732 EPROM to schematic;
Commenced schematic changes to replace 6530's with 6532's.
In summary, Mk1 would be a little smaller, use available parts, cheaper to build and complete pcb and still be 100% firmware compatible with an original pcb. Mk2 is about changing the way settings are done and adding some features and requires changes to the firmware.
Comments on any of the above are most welcome. I will continue on Mk1 and hopefully post more info shortly.
Edit: I almost forgot. I have had the first prototpye pcb's made to plug into the edge connectors to help test the lamps and switches.
So why not leave off Gi lighting completely, and allow us to do an external power supply for starters? Leave off anything that can be done easily from an external source such as pop bumpers, and flippers, and focus only on scoring, switches, etc?. If we're are already changing the game, make this as easy and cost effective as possible, set up the cpu, get the rules in, and leave off anything that can run externally separate. Super easy to install a power supply, and get stuff powered up.
Quoted from MrBigg:So why not leave off Gi lighting completely, and allow us to do an external power supply for starters? Leave off anything that can be done easily from an external source such as pop bumpers, and flippers, and focus only on scoring, switches, etc?. If we're are already changing the game, make this as easy and cost effective as possible, set up the cpu, get the rules in, and leave off anything that can run externally separate. Super easy to install a power supply, and get stuff powered up.
I think maybe I did not explain it properly.
All of the lamps I am referring to are game play lamps (there are 32 of them). They are switched on or off during game play. None are part of general illumination, but that is a very valid suggestion.
For Mk1, no change to game rules or game code. This will be fairly quick to get to this stage. In Mk2 changes to firmware would only be for saving/reading the game settings and adding some self-test (ROM, RAM, Timer, etc) code at start-up as the current firmware does none of that. Actual game play code would still not be changed.
The intention is to keep things easy to fit this new pcb. Just install the newer smaller board with newer components (same connectors). No wiring or changes needed to the actual game.
I hope I explained that a little better.
Rough layout with the first part of the changes done. This should give an idea of the size that can be achieved for ALI Repro Mk1. The price for this size pcb is not too bad. Also using more readily available components will help lower the build cost.
Some of the changes:
6502 Added (and footprint for 6504 kept as a build option) - excuse 3D render showing both sockets fitted;
New (8pin DIP) driver IC's are in the lower centre area closer to the edge connectors;
Settings are now made by placing a single (2 pin) jumper to the pin next to the setting needed - no wires 
6530's have been replaced with an EPROM and 2 x 6532's and some decode logic;
Power and Coil connectors J4-J6 have been updated to match the original game connectors;
Layout has been rearranged (draft only) and the board sized reduced accordingly;
PCB width has not changed so it easy to fit and secure it in place;
Will still run with original code (merged into one EPROM).
Still to do:
Cleanup layout more;
Change allocation of gates partially used in IC's to allow removal of 1 or 2 more 7404 IC's;
Add 1 more decoding change needed to accommodate 6532's (known as A4 mod);
Consider alternative transistor to use in place of MPS6531 - Edit: completed change to 2N4401's for testing;
Edit: Also changed 2N708's to 2N3904's, 1N4152 to 1N4148. All to be tested on prototype pcbs;
And here is what the current draft layout for Mk1 looks like.
Appreciate any suggestions, feedback or comments.
Quoted from psd4me:I'm in for either version. Glad it's still moving forward.
Agreed, I would take anything to get my machine going, Appreciate all the hard work you are doing for this project.
Will be more than happy to purchase 2 of these for ALI machines.
In case you haven's seen this post, you may find it helpful. A fellow pinsider restored his ALI game and re-coded the game logic from scratch into an Arduino MEGA.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/circa-1933-cocktail-pin-1978-restored-with-arduino
https://github.com/electric-piano5k/Circa1933Arduino/releases/tag/v1.0
Quoted from KenH:In case you haven's seen this post, you may find it helpful. A fellow pinsider restored his ALI game and re-coded the game logic from scratch into an Arduino MEGA.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/circa-1933-cocktail-pin-1978-restored-with-arduino
https://github.com/electric-piano5k/Circa1933Arduino/releases/tag/v1.0
We have been looking into this for some time, but cost was an issue. We've ventured further into using a wembly, or other pre-made board for such as a bally with like 40ish games in one chip, and pick the one that has similar targets, etc, just to make one playable. This is feasible, but lacks the scoring, etc. One way or another, we will get our machine going, with a repro board, or something else.
I will look at the link on the Mega, sounds interesting.
I think an authentic repro (running original code and plug-in compatible) with changes to use more current components will still find a home.
Made more progress, completed the A4 Mod needed for the 6532, using some of the spare gates already on the pcb. Added it to the design and completed changing the transistors and diodes mentioned as new alternatives in the layout.
Next step will be to check if there is still any IC's to be removed and then a little more layout work on the reset and spark detection components. Then it should be ready to route tracks.
Timeline. If it continues to go smoothly and no new problems pop up, I should be able to get some prototype pcbs in my next order (in the next week weeks).
Recap for ALI Repro Mk1 Features:
Uses the original firmware, combined into one EPROM;
6502 or 6504 Processor;
2 6532's replacing the 3 6530's;
Newer driver chips and transistors that are orderable from places like Digikey;
Setting changed to use jumper blocks, no more wires;
Plug compatible with original layout (lower height to help lower pcb cost).
Any comments, thoughts or feedback most welcomed.
Making great progress. Have done a few iterations of various changes and tidy up to the pcb layout.
I am also quickly making up a player display unit. I have drawn up the schematic and done a rough layout. Does anyone know the connector type it uses? I will try and look through the paperwork to see, but though I would ask in case someone knows. I also did the credit display if anyone knows that one as well. I do not have one of these machines, so I will need to be able to emulate one for initial testing. I have test cards to test and check the switches and lamps connected there.
I had a look through the comments I made going through the game code and it should be possible to add some FRAM in Mk2 and remove the jumper settings completely and add some startup tests, high score saving, etc without changing the codes game play. This will take some time and testing since it requires changes to the code and additional hardware. I think Mk1 should be able to be prototyped and tested fairly quickly, so we will stay on that route to get a solution out there.
Quoted from AzureOz:I am also quickly making up a player display unit. I have drawn up the schematic and done a rough layout. Does anyone know the connector type it uses?
The cocktail led displays use a Molex plug style, I believe?
The upright full pinball type display uses 5 digit gas discharge display...I do not remember
the connector type used.
Quoted from vec-tor:The cocktail led displays use a Molex plug style, I believe?
The upright full pinball type display uses 5 digit gas discharge display...I do not remember
the connector type used.
Sorry, I should have been clearer, I was referring to the cocktail machines. Yes, it is a Molex/AMP, I think Mate-N-Lok commercial range (like on the main pcb for coils), but not sure either.
Quoted from MrBigg:This is an Eros one
Thanks for those pics. Are you able to check if the 15pin red plug on that display is the same plug as the one in the bottom that plugs into the main board? If you're not sure but still have access to it, can you take a picture of the pin side of both plugs.
Is your machine waiting for one of these repros, or is the pcb just out getting some sun?
Quoted from MrBigg:This is an Eros one
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Ah! Old school AMP connectors.
Great photos @mrbigg.
Getting closer to having something physical. Here is a 3D grab of the routed pcb. I have to do a clean route as I just found an error I made (glad I spotted it now, was a simple correction before I reroute again). Edit: Reroute completed, now optimizing, then manual check and any cleanup.
I also reduced the size a little more from the left. This is getting very close, these will be in my next pcb order. If you click on the image you can see the larger version.
You can clearly see the jumper rows, you just install a jumper at the setting you want, less chance of bent pins and broken, messy wires.
ALI Repro Mk1 Draft (resized).jpg
Quoted from AzureOz:Sorry, I should have been clearer, I was referring to the cocktail machines. Yes, it is a Molex/AMP, I think Mate-N-Lok commercial range (like on the main pcb for coils), but not sure either.
Thanks for those pics. Are you able to check if the 15pin red plug on that display is the same plug as the one in the bottom that plugs into the main board? If you're not sure but still have access to it, can you take a picture of the pin side of both plugs.
Is your machine waiting for one of these repros, or is the pcb just out getting some sun?
I have access since it's been sitting in my garage for a year, dead. Playfield and cabinet are nearly perfect minus a few indented light inserts. Pcb was already missing when I bought it. I'll take some more pics after work this evening of the connectors for you.
Quoted from MrBigg:We have been looking into this for some time, but cost was an issue. We've ventured further into using a wembly, or other pre-made board for such as a bally with like 40ish games in one chip, and pick the one that has similar targets, etc, just to make one playable. This is feasible, but lacks the scoring, etc.
If you have all the wiring in the game interfaced to the bally boardset (probably easiest to change all the boards if you can) the software is the easiest part of it (well, for me) and one of the other games can be modified to score 'correctly'. The hard part is the hardware interfacing.
I'm going to be doing something similar to the above with a Gottlieb Jacks To Open at some point and in the past I was going to do it with a Gottlieb countdown to get true 7 digit scoring. If I had an AL game I wouldn't hesitate to pursue swapping the boardset but some research has to be done to get it correct.
Quoted from MrBigg:I have access since it's been sitting in my garage for a year, dead. Playfield and cabinet are nearly perfect minus a few indented light inserts. Pcb was already missing when I bought it. I'll take some more pics after work this evening of the connectors for you.
Thanks that would be great. I do have someone that will lend me some displays so I can get accurate measurement on size and where things need to go. It will take a little time to arrange that, so any information I can get or work out now will help move things along.
Quoted from slochar:If you have all the wiring in the game interfaced to the bally boardset (probably easiest to change all the boards if you can) the software is the easiest part of it (well, for me) and one of the other games can be modified to score 'correctly'. The hard part is the hardware interfacing.
I'm going to be doing something similar to the above with a Gottlieb Jacks To Open at some point and in the past I was going to do it with a Gottlieb countdown to get true 7 digit scoring. If I had an AL game I wouldn't hesitate to pursue swapping the boardset but some research has to be done to get it correct.
The ALI game is a little different to most electronic games that came after it. All switches and lamps are directly wired to individual port pins, no input or output matrix drives. The playfield is wired that way so to change it would be a big task and also possibly change the "feel" of the game. An adapter would be needed to add the extra ports needed to adapt one of the newer game boards as well as writing the code to drive the game that way using a different board. It is possible, just a lot of work.
Quoted from AzureOz:The ALI game is a little different to most electronic games that came after it. All switches and lamps are directly wired to individual port pins, no input or output matrix drives. The playfield is wired that way so to change it would be a big task and also possibly change the "feel" of the game. An adapter would be needed to add the extra ports needed to adapt one of the newer game boards as well as writing the code to drive the game that way using a different board. It is possible, just a lot of work.
Yeah, that's too many changes. You'd have to rewire the whole playfield.
Here is a status update on the boards I am making for ALI cabinets:
1. Main Board. Just finishing some route optimizations and then a check for any issues and tidy up and it is ready to make up some first prototype pcb's for testing.
2. Player and Credit Displays (cocktail cabinet). Need to add correct connector and change layout to correct dimensions and route. Schematic and basic layout are ready. I have also added some optional test connectors to use these more conveniently on a workbench setup.
3. Test Cards. I have made test cards for each of the 3 edge connectors. These will allow the main board to be easily powered up and checked on the workbench. They can also be used in the machine to monitor and check wiring to lamps and switches. I have made them so just one could be used in any position J1-3. If they are going to be used as a set in the correct positions then certain leds and switches could be left off the boards. They are ready to go when the other boards get ordered. I have added some connectors to easily test the displays and LEDs.
I still need to make up a board to check the solenoid/lamp driver, power inputs on J4-6. I should have that finished over the weekend. I will not hold up the pcb order for this one, if I don't have it ready when I am ready to order, which I am hoping to do next week.
Here are the pics of the set of boards for ALI so far.
ALI Repro Mk1 Draft (resized).jpgCredit Display (resized).jpgJ1 Test Card (resized).jpgJ1 Test Card labels (resized).jpgJ2 Test Card (resized).jpgJ3 Test Card (resized).jpgPlayer Display (resized).jpgQuoted from AzureOz:The ALI game is a little different to most electronic games that came after it. All switches and lamps are directly wired to individual port pins, no input or output matrix drives. The playfield is wired that way so to change it would be a big task and also possibly change the "feel" of the game. An adapter would be needed to add the extra ports needed to adapt one of the newer game boards as well as writing the code to drive the game that way using a different board. It is possible, just a lot of work.
You're talking to a homebrew guy, so wiring is as easy as it gets for me. I'm In That stage now on my ground up custom pin.
Quoted from slochar:Yeah, that's too many changes. You'd have to rewire the whole playfield.
Small feat compared to building custom pins.
20221106_141756 (resized).jpg20230205_155129 (resized).jpg20230212_141144 (resized).jpg20230212_141211 (resized).jpg
Quoted from daddy:I am excited to see that this is still going strong
Finally, very close to having some real hardware. Very exciting times, looking forward to building and testing these repro boards. Fingers crossed there are not too many problems and we will finally have a replacement board available for machines that need a board or machines that have dead 6504's and 6530's.
I wish I had those manuals that were shipped off to someone early in the thread (to assist them in making a repro). They would be real handy.
Quoted from MrBigg:I have access since it's been sitting in my garage for a year, dead. Playfield and cabinet are nearly perfect minus a few indented light inserts. Pcb was already missing when I bought it. I'll take some more pics after work this evening of the connectors for you.
When you get time it would be great to get a pic of the board connectors.
If you feel inclined here are the measurements I am also after (in 1/10 inches would be ideal). Same ones for credit display as well. No problem if that is too hard, the connector pics would be a great help.
Player display measurements (resized).jpgAnd the last test board I want to make is for the coils and lamps on J4-6.
Here is a rough idea on what I am thinking. The LED corresponds to the pin position on the connector next to it. J4 only has 6 LED's, the other pins are for power. I am still working on the connectors needed and silkcreen labelling will need to be done if I continue with this layout. Edit: Updated layout to something I am more happy with.
J4-6a is for leads to game pcb. J4-6 are feed through for machine testing, you can see if a coil or lamp fires (coming out of the game pcb) and whether the corresponding lamp or coil is activated.
I kept with good old 5mm LEDs and through hole resistors, so it is easy to assemble and identify the LED. If the pulsed coils light to briefly I will need to add pulse stretchers to those ones. Will find out when we test the prototype.
Any thoughts or suggestions welcomed.
J4-6 Test Card (resized).jpg
Quoted from MrBigg:Small feat compared to building custom pins.
Is he not using the space invaders wiring harness for that game though?
I had thought about pm'd him offering to reprogram SI for any changes he might want, but I have too much on my plate right now to do that.
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