Take Five and Roy Clark for me.

Hi, I could really use everyones help making sure things are correct in the repro I am working on.

In order to help reduce the board size (and cost) I will be looking at consolidating the driver ic's to reduce the number of unused gates (there are quite a few).

If you have a manual of your game can you please post or pm me a picture or pdf of just the cabinet wiring diagram page (if a legible copy is not already posted in this thread). I want to make sure all of the LAI games this board went in are covered (including upgrights if possible).

My preferred replacement for the jumper blocks was to use these (for size and ease of use):
Rotary DIP Switch 10 Position (resized).png
Unfortunately they are not available with 10 individual outputs, only as 4 bit binary coded. They will not work without an additional 7442 ic for each switch, so no go there. The other options are DIP switches (which are wider than what is there now and will take up a lot more space) and rows of headers using jumpers, which will be a little wider than what is there now but are easy and neat jumpers blocks instead of the messy wires.

I'm in for one on my Take Five.

I’d be interested in one for Circa 1933, and possibly a Eros One.

I would be happy to purchase 1 or even 2 if needed to make this happen, the boards in these are a complete nightmare to fix or even find to try get a machine playable. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing your work and progress on it.

What about these?

https://aliexpress.com/item/32796086428.html

12 position, 1 pole PCB panel rotary switch

Thanks for the suggestion, they are close to what I am after (10 pole 1 pos) but needed in a small pcb footprint. Unfortunately do to their size a no go in this situation, there are 15 of the10 way setting jumpers to replace on the pcb. Objective is to make settings less messy than the jumpers and to reduce the footprint of the PCB to make the repro cheaper.
Something like this one but I think they are only available as BCD not 10 pole 1 pos.

PCB BCD Rotary switch (resized).png

Project update.
I have been doing some work on the gal fuse map for the 6530 repro (that can be configured to replace on of several 6530's using solder jumpers to select the address decoding and rom for the one being replaced). Turns out there are not enough terms to do this using the GAL. I have updated the design to use a 2nd EEPROM for the settings. All drawn up and ready to get a few made up for testing with my next pcb order. Still nice and compact and should be able to hold up to 32 different 6530 configs and roms, so will be able to add in info for other equipment using these as well.
6530 Repro 3D6530 Repro Top6530 Repro Bottom

On the ALI pcb side I have been doing some work reverse engineering the roms. Almost done with that. This work has confirmed the code accesses several coils, lamps and switches that are not used or populated on the later rev H pcb.

I still need actual wiring diagrams for some of the other models (have had very little response to my requests). This is to check which parts of the pcb are used or not, especially in a 4 player upright game. Just to clarify I cannot spend the several hundred it will cost me to buy the complete manuals being sold and have them shipped to me in Australia. I do not have an ALI pinball, I took this project on as a result of the journey in getting a loan PCB for testing my 6504 NOP module design. I have already put countless tens of hours into this project and will spend money making up the test pcbs before they can be made available.

Without some assistance on the different cabinet wiring for the games this project may not be able to be completed. I may be able to work with clear pictures of the connectors and wires connecting to the pcb as that will tell me which pins are connected in the various games. Hope some of you can help with that.

If you see diagrams for sale, lmk and I'll see what I can do. I have a nice scanner at work that can reduce them to pdf.

My time is limited though, June 7th I go in for surgery and will be out 2 months.

I think some are on IPDB. Which ones specifically are you looking for?

Thanks so much for those, they were a great help in clarifying a few of the unused switches, lamps and coils shown in the various schematics that are posted.

Thank you also to the few others that have reach out and PM's me with information.

Any more of the of the pages labelled "<game name> wiring diagram" where the actual <game name> is specified would be most appreciated.

I have Roy Clark - The Entertainer, Star Shooter and Disco 79. The Disco 79 wiring diagram seems to be used in several of the game manuals.

Thanks for the suggestion. I had thought along the same lines and already looked through every one of those posted. Most are just repeats of the same manual uploaded with a different file name.

I had a quick look. I do not think it will work as is (with a suitable ALI ROM image) as the address lines to the 6532 are different. If circuit was changed current layout not suitable for replacing multiple 6530 as they will not fit side by side.

I know nothing about Rom's or chipset's but stumbled upon this if it is any help with mapping address lines etc.

Sorry if it isn't.

http://www.baltissen.org/newhtm/6530repl.htm

I am still waiting on some 6532's I ordered about 6 weeks ago (from a US arcade parts supplier) to arrive. Hopefully they are close now.

I have also recently purchased and just received yesterday a couple of faulty analyzers (a 1670G and 1672G). I think I managed to get one running (still doing tests on it). This should come in handy when I start testing the 6530 repro module decoding circuitry.

Main ALI pcb project is on go slow while I work on some other projects that are a higher priority and until the 6530 repro is done.

Does anyone know if this became reality? I recently found a very nice eros one, but it was stripped of the main cpu board. Can anyone help with a replacement, or a source to find any information?

20220731_140912 (resized).jpg

Progress is being made. This is a big project and not one I can or will rush.

It started out with me making a 6504 NOP module to help with the diagnosis and repair of the main boards to add to the collection I have been building. This has been made tested and verified. It will become available when I am able to complete testing of the other NOP modules that will make up kit 2.

I then started on the 6530 repro. I first handwired an Arduino and wrote some code to be able to read and determine the hard coded rom and ram and guess the i/o addresses within each 6530. This was not conclusive so I decided to design, make and test a 6502 to 6504 Adapter for the Fluke 9010A Pod. This has been completed and tested. During testing I was able to determine more information about the 6530 to assit with making a 6530 repro. I ended up designing several iterations of the 6530 repro. In order to make it a nice compact and solder jumper configurable replacement for any of the 6530's took some work to find available components that would fit. I have had these boards made up but still need to do some timing testing on the design. I will need to change the pcb to make it easier to update the eeproms used for the address decoding and roms. I have sourced and received the components needed, which has had expensive and slow shipping in the past few months. I have also ordered but not yet received a TSSOP-28 programmer adapter so I can program the eeproms of board for now. After I verify if the design works on the proto boards I will do a respin on the pcb to make it easier to reprogram them after assembly if needed.

I then started on a repro on the mainboard. The schematic drawings were completed and double checked by hand against the pfs I cold find and pcb I have on loan from someone that has a take 5. I also asked for anyone with copies of manuals from any other ALI machines with this board to make sure I had covered any other pins that may be used. I received a few replies and have checked all of those against my drawings. After several revisions a repro of the main pcb schematic and layout was almost complete.

The original board is quite large and would be expensive to produce with a lot of the parts pricy and hard to source. This may lead to a dead design as it will be low volume and possibly not cost justifiable for people. So I started doing some revisions of the layout. One aim is to reduce the size (and cost) and another is to remove the large jumper pool in the center. Because of the way the code works it is not easy to change the jumpers to anything other than easier to configure jumpers without changing the code.

To look at options I next reverse engineered the code to look for any easy ways to change the jumper hardware on the pcb. I have some ideas on how to do this with smaller and low cost bcd rotary switches but have not had time to explore this further yet. This may be straying too far from my design objectives, so it is being pondered for now as to what path to take.

To assist debugging and doing timing tests of the 6530 repro's in the short term and main board later I have acquired 2 broken HP 167xG Logic Analyzers. These have been received and I have been able to repair one, so I now have a 1672G working to assist with testing and debugging, 1760G unit still has a faulty acquisition board I will attempt to repair. I would like the 003 and 004 options for these 2 units but I cannot afford what I have been able to find so far.

To assist with working on a ALI main board on the workbench I have also made up some test boards that plug into the edge connectors to view and test the lamp drivers and inputs. Still thinking about a cost-effective solution for the coil drivers. I hope to finish these and order them with my next batch of pcbs I get made up.

Once the programmer adapter arrives I will be ready to start testing the 6530 repro.

So, all in all, while a 6530 repro and replacement main board are not ready yet a lot of work has been going on to get to them done as lots of stepping stones are traversed to get there all in amongst real life things that require time. I work with limited funds for all my projects and have to share the love between them as best I can. The revenue from some contribute to progressing others.

I hope that provides some insight into what has been going on for the 6530 and main board repro's.

I'm am very impressed by all the work, time, and thought you have put into this. An unbelievable task for most of us, and I personally get the amount of time, and cost you have already undertook. I have a couple questions to maybe help you break your train of thought.. since most pins are lights, bumpers, and coils pretty much, would it be possible to just use an already in production board, and make connectors that just reroute the functions to the correct device? Also in this, could a repro board such as a rotten dog, etc, be reverse engineered, since we know it's functions already, to work the much fewer devices on a cocktail pin? I know I'm making this mundane in the comparison to how much goes on, but I'm thinking also that if bumper A makes light B, and score c activate, would it be possible rather than creat a board, possibly use one of the newer ladder logic PLC's to operate a game? Possible a few input, output cards, and I/O cards to basically trigger the games pop up targets, etc? There is a company called Automation Direct near me in Atlanta, that has very low cost programming setups. I'm just spitballing here, and by no means detracting from what you're doing. This PLC idea keeps coming back into my head for some reason, and it's programming is relatively simple compared to all that is going on in a board. Basically if/then type DOS. I'm probably underthinking this, but I just wanted to share to maybe help simplify your efforts. Good luck, and a lot of us out here are very grateful that your attempting this, to possibly bring some great games back to life.

I'd like to express interest in an Eros One and a Star Shooter board if you're still taking names.. Cool to stumble across this

Eros one also. AzureOz do you need a schematic for Eros one?

AzureOz here are some clear schematics for Allied if it helps

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1w3sFV30j3_dAz7qL9sLuyRMOpeG-ryKn?usp=sharing

I'm still looking for the full manual if anybody has them. They look like so...

https://www.aussiearcade.com/topic/99073-allied-leisure-cocktail-flipper-coil-number/

I am after wiring diagrams for the ALI or Fascination playfields games.

I have the ones labelled as general Cocktail Table Electrical Harness Schematic, Disco 79 and Star Shooter.

I would like to see the wiring diagram for Hoe Down, Super Picker or Thunderbolt in particular so I can confirm the connections used on the pcb for one of those upright cabinets.

There's a set of drawings for Hoe Down over at marcopinball are these the one you need? It'll be 14-28 days if I purchase them for you.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/DOC2094

I do not think it is worth it. From the information I have been able to find (online) most of the games have the Disco' 79 or an unlabelled wiring diagram in them. Seems they did not publish a specific wiring diagram for each machine.

Many years ago I had an ALI mother board/cpu, that had the label Thunderbolt on it.
It was the same as The Entertainer Roy Clark cocktail game. In all the cpu is generic
and with jumpers and certain pinout locations the manufacture was able to make different
playfield layouts that basically all had the same or almost the same elements.

Thanks for that info. I am aware of the common PCB. Game play logic is the same for all the games (I have reverse engineered most of the code).

What I would like to confirm before I start working on pcb options is the cabinet wiring for an upright. The pcb has connections that are not all wired and some were even dropped from the pcb on the early to later revisions. It would be good to confirm if any of the different machines (that I have not been able to locate pdf's for) do connect to any of these unused pins by checking the cabinet wiring diagrams.

If there are no wiring diagrams for these then anyone with one of the mentioned machines could help by checking against a list I could provide to see if there are any unexpected pins wired up.

1) Upright games have an aux. code board that acts like a match feature.
2) Upright games have high voltage gas discharge displays that are 5 digits.
------------------------------------------------------------
Odd Note:
Power supply on Disco 79 had wires cut and jumped to modify voltage level.

Do you have any info on the Aux code board? I have not seen anything on that in what I have searched through.

It is a board with two rows of LEDs I think they call it match-up.
Correction!!! The board is called Line-em-Up.

I guess as you play the game one set of LEDs moves around.
when game is over, the other set of LEDs lights up?
OR
Both sets are lit up and move around...
At the end of game if both top and bottom row LEDs match
you get Extra Ball/or points/or Special free game.
pasted_image (resized).png
Here it is called Line em Up
pasted_image (resized).png
Here from Roy Clark up right pinball, back far side, top row.
Here is another image
pasted_image (resized).png
Note: IPDB Dyn -O'-Mite has more complete schematics to the up right pinballs.

Dyn-O-Mite is an earlier machine and uses multiple control boards not the single microprocessor control board like in the later units.

I am trying to verify the wiring of the upright machines using the single microprocessor control board. From what I have been able to find online these are the Hoe Down, Super Picker or Thunderbolt upright machines.

Any updates on this thread? I'm ready to make that purchase. Got an exceptional eros one wating to come alive again.

Trying to keep this thread alive. So how complicated would it be to find a similar cpu, and trace the bumpers, etc, and swap the scoring to match just to get one of these going?

The way the game coding works it would not be simple to use any other board, if that is what you mean.

There are existing boards that come up for sale. I have repaired 2 for other people and have one for someone else that is repaired but awaiting my 6530 repro module (it has a dead 6530 IC5).

I have done some more work on my main pcb repro design and put some more thought into what will be on the repro pcb. I am planning on a dual 6504 / 6502 socket and looking at reducing the chip count by consolidating some of the unused gates in several ic's and a way to remove the jumper block with someone simpler and less prone to damage. The changes I am looking into for the jumpers requires changing the code.

The costs and time involved for this project are considerable and only come after other projects I am working on. The 6530 Repro for these boards is one of those that will come first.

I still do not have firm info on the upright machines and this is something I want to confirm when I am ready to get a main pcb made up for testing. I do not want to have to change it because something to suit an upright is missing.

I also recently did a reasonable amount of repair work on a Hearts and Spades and learnt of lot from the experience while fixing the game. The test boards I was ready to make up would not be easy to read the silk screen info being located so low inside the cabinet cavity and would only fit with the playfield up. They will still be handy to repair a board on the work bench but not as practical inside the cabinet as I had hoped.

I got an email that digikey is making low production boards now, as little as 20 with any color silkscreen, and copper thickness. Here's a link, and ty fir the info. Still on the lookout for an Eros 1 board.
https://www.digikey.com/en/pcb-builder/?utm_medium=email&utm_source=adh&utm_campaign=121844_ADH22RED2&utm_content=learnmore_US&utm_cid=13642623&mkt_tok=MTQ0LU5DQi0wMzAAAAGG-oAv3p8vJIfdBartQtuZKwz6mQG_gzf2XE2jMgsM6PvNZl32Y8WtubSb1-fwtAAbl05dyBGEZ0pWKfPQmPZDI9prTgLgCtPkJoHCqAewX_IByJit

So after some research, I've found a couple guys that can do this on another cpu rather easy. Spoke to one Sunday, and can program a PRock board to do this for minimal costs, and even do additional lighting, and sound programming to enhance the game, or leave as is. I'll update, as I find out more, but looks like I'll have my Eros one up sooner than later.

This would be great.

Great idea, do you have a lead on those so I can get started on that part?

They'll still need to adapt the p-roc with electronics to handle the non matrixed switches and lamps. The displays likely will need some conditioning too.

Seems like a lot of hardware ($ cost) for a simple Allied cocktail game.

Great idea, do you have a lead on those so I can get started on that part?

I'm willing to restore one for what I have in it, I'll sink about $400 in a machine I have nothing in at the moment, and have a modernized very nice machine. To each his own, and I choose to make mine a player, rather than a dust collector.

Yes, I'll post back in a day or two after I've secured the right guy. A couple options open at the moment, and I'm discussing them programming, and them supplying the cpu. Getting a count on switches, and coils to find the right setup at moment.

- PC
- p-roc
- adapter PCB with stuffed components for switch conditioning and/or lamp drivers. Best bet is have the adapter PCB also have the card edge fingers on it rather than wiring up jamma adapters. And modifying the oddball AMP solenoid drive connectors that are no longer available.

Seems like more than $400 to me.

Modernized it really isn't... ever played an Allied cocktail? I've owned several, still have a Take Five and Eeros One. Hearts and Spades is the best Allied cocktail title, by far. They're interesting for what they are but are still a cocktail pinball. And the nylon flipper and drop target parts have an odd feel to them.

I'm just saying that putting all that into an Allied cocktail probably isn't what most people would consider a good investment. Maybe OPP is a better choice.

I'm sure coming here to down people for wanting to enjoy something serves some purpose for you, but if your not going to offer anything other than that, you can move on. There are a lot of us out here with dead allied tables looking for just anything to revive these, and enjoy them again. So if you aren't in, then be out, or offer something constructive please.