(Topic ID: 95521)

New addition to my addiction - Swinger

By NextoPin

9 years ago


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  • 112 posts
  • 26 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by FrankJ
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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There are 112 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 3.
#51 9 years ago

Finally unburied the pin, picked up some Mean Green and got to work cleaning my dirty Swinger. Ordered the Rubbers (always use new rubbers with a Swinger), bulbs, ball saver post, new balls (a good Swinger will always get your balls dirty). I also bought new flippers for my BK2K so I'm going to use my old BK2K flippers on swinger, if I can.

I'm pretty much just cleaning it up, refurbishing worn components and attempting to prevent further wear. A Nice pinsider has a playfield he is going to ship me that's in a little better shape than the one I have.

Believe it or not, I have not taken the glass off yet, ever. I'm not sure what's up with the area around the bumpers, it looks pretty bad, I'll know more when I get the glass off.

I still need to clean the backbox and the inside, I hope to get to it this weekend.

It's hard to tell, but the pics where it's standing up are the before pictures.

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#52 9 years ago

I had a stinky Williams EM with the same directive from the better half. This finally worked for me: take all the boards out, spray them down with Mean Green and watch the slime pour off. Rinse and then dry them to avoid rust. Don't blow strong air onto the score reels, they are delicate and the ink may blow off (oops). I also took the cabinet outside and lightly sanded it down with a random orbital sander on the inside to remove crud.

I suggest fully disassembling, cleaning and reassembling all the units in the machine according to Clay's guide. It can be a puzzle to reassemble them but you will find that the units are all variations on each other so reference another one to help put them back together! Use the manual/schematic and verify all the switches. Get a switch adjuster and flexstone for cleaning up switches. You are right, it is easier to do this with the boards removed from the machine and propped up on a workbench!

#53 9 years ago

Wait, are you saying to pull the guts out, drench them in cleaner and spray them off? like with a hose? That sounds insane.

#54 9 years ago

That's what I ended up doing.....depends on how stinky your pinball machine is and how much your wife hates it! Your machine may be encrusted in decades of nicotine, that was the only efficient way I found to get rid of it. Nothing got damaged, even most labels were fine.....you can try other measures, I did try "masking" approaches like Febreeze but the only thing in the end that got 99% of the smell out was a good washdown.

#55 9 years ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

This finally worked for me: take all the boards out, spray them down with Mean Green and watch the slime pour off. Rinse and then dry them to avoid rust. Don't blow strong air onto the score reels, they are delicate and the ink may blow off (oops). I also took the cabinet outside and lightly sanded it down with a random orbital sander on the inside to remove crud.

Not what I would do unless you separated the mechanicals from the wood then cleaned just the wood and made sure to fully dry it out as quickly as possible.

Just my 2 cents.

Ken

#56 9 years ago

My EM only cost $50 so I was willing to be a bit more drastic to get rid of the stench!! By all means try less severe measures! But it worked for me.

#57 9 years ago

I got some stuff called Zorbx that was recommended for getting the odors out. I've also heard people say to spray off with brake cleaner. Since that part appears easy to remove, I'll likely just put it on the workbench and clean it by hand.

I read another post with some bingo machines where they hosed them off and let them air dry. Seems crazy but so does bathing circuit boards in alcohol, but it's fine.

As a last resort I would give it a try. Maybe I'll try it on my Big Ben, that thing is a mess anyway.

So what's up with the circles around the pop bumpers?

#59 9 years ago
Quoted from NextoPin:

So what's up with the circles around the pop bumpers?

Those appear to be the old WICO wood grain Mylars to protect the Pops that were installed by Operators.

Ken

#60 9 years ago

Wow, what a difference! I like the pouring of hot water, controls it and helps to dry faster. You're not getting that nicotine off by sticking a dryer sheet in the cab! If you don't have an ultrasonic cleaner I'd recommend it. Makes cleaning up disassembled units a breeze.

#61 9 years ago
Quoted from EM-PINMAN:

Those appear to be the old WICO wood grain Mylars to protect the Pops that were installed by Operators.
Ken

ahh, it looks like the wood grain is underneath, do you think the playfield might still be good under there?

#62 9 years ago

Looking at your Pf, I'd say the one I have for you is in better shape- not my much. I will try to get it stripped this weekend.

#63 9 years ago
Quoted from NextoPin:

ahh, it looks like the wood grain is underneath, do you think the playfield might still be good under there?

It's very possible as long as they were installed when the operator bought the machine rather than after it was played to death then covered.

Ken

#64 9 years ago
Quoted from WilliamsFan:

Looking at your Pf, I'd say the one I have for you is in better shape- not my much. I will try to get it stripped this weekend.

Cool, I can't wait. Just got all my parts from Marco already! Ready to tear into this Swinger..yea baby yea!

#65 9 years ago
Quoted from NextoPin:

Finally unburied the pin, picked up some Mean Green and got to work cleaning my dirty Swinger. Ordered the Rubbers (always use new rubbers with a Swinger), bulbs, ball saver post, new balls (a good Swinger will always get your balls dirty). I also bought new flippers for my BK2K so I'm going to use my old BK2K flippers on swinger, if I can.
I'm pretty much just cleaning it up, refurbishing worn components and attempting to prevent further wear. A Nice pinsider has a playfield he is going to ship me that's in a little better shape than the one I have.
Believe it or not, I have not taken the glass off yet, ever. I'm not sure what's up with the area around the bumpers, it looks pretty bad, I'll know more when I get the glass off.
I still need to clean the backbox and the inside, I hope to get to it this weekend.
It's hard to tell, but the pics where it's standing up are the before pictures.

Is that your Bug in the background? The hatch isn't the 1970 hatch.

1970 Bugs had two louvers in the hatch cover, no louvers behind the rear windows, and the smaller taillights. 1971 Bugs had two louvers on the hatch, two behind the windows, and the small taillights. 1972 Bugs had four louvers, louvers behind the rear windows, and the larger taillights.

I would know. I had a 1970.

You can verify it off the VIN. But that is definitely not a stock 1970 engine hatch.

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#66 9 years ago
Quoted from NextoPin:

ahh, it looks like the wood grain is underneath, do you think the playfield might still be good under there?

Just had good luck removing Wicos from under pop bumpers with a hair dryer set on low. Glue residue cleaned up with naphtha. "Test in an inconspicuous area".

#67 9 years ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

Is that your Bug in the background? The hatch isn't the 1970 hatch.

1970 Bugs had two louvers in the hatch cover, no louvers behind the rear windows, and the smaller taillights. 1971 Bugs had two louvers on the hatch, two behind the windows, and the small taillights. 1972 Bugs had four louvers, louvers behind the rear windows, and the larger taillights.

I would know. I had a 1970.

Yes, It's mine, I also have a dune buggy on a 59 chassis. I know about the decklid, I have 2 1970 decklids, that one in the pic is from a super, it was on it when I got it.

Quoted from Pinbee:

Just had good luck removing Wicos from under pop bumpers with a hair dryer set on low. Glue residue cleaned up with naphtha. "Test in an inconspicuous area".

That's good news, I'll try it. Does freeze spray work on this kind of mylar?

#68 9 years ago

Good luck. This was the first pin I bought/worked on. Definitely a fun game.

#69 9 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Good luck. This was the first pin I bought/worked on. Definitely a fun game.

Thanks. My son and I got to play it at PAPA 17. Can't wait to play it again.

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Didn't get to work on it this weekend like I planned, but all my parts came in so I'm ready to go once I have the time.

#70 9 years ago

WilliamsFan shipped out that playfield today!!

So now the question is, do I get it up and playing with the current playfield while I restore the replacement or do I restore the replacement and then get it up and running?

#71 9 years ago

Oh, and another thing I discovered, While this pin looks like it would totally glow under a blacklight, it unfortunately does not. Only the paint on the bumper caps, the pink on the playfield and the orange on the apron glow.

Kinda disappointing...

#72 9 years ago

Seems to be in pretty good shape for 90,000 games. That seems like a lot, no wonder the playfield is trashed.

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#73 9 years ago

What's this?

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#74 9 years ago

[attachment=0image-79.jpgimage-79.jpgimage-303.jpgimage-303.jpgimage-264.jpgimage-264.jpg,315269 caption=""]

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#75 9 years ago

That is where your cord connects. Mine doesn't look like that. The schematic should show the wiring.

I believe the green is ground but you don't have a grounded Cord. Buy a new 3 pronged power cord and rewire. I got a nice 12' one at Home Depot stripped and ready to go.

#76 9 years ago
Quoted from NextoPin:

What's this?
Image (auto-loading disabled)

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Looks like a big capacitor across the AC input. Probably an early attempt to filter out some EMI emissions. Personally, I would remove it since it is before any fusing. If it shorts out (40 plus years old), it will blow your hous breaker as there is no fuse between it and the line cord.

#77 9 years ago

It almost seems like solid metal.

I did the math, this game, at a quarter a game brought in $25,500.

The new old playfield arrived today, but I suppose I'm just going to clean the old one, put new rubbers on it and see if it plays. Swapping the playfield looks like it's going to be pretty involved. I'm going to try my hand at restoring the new old one and do the swap down the line.

Today I plan to pull out the bottom board (what's the name for it?) and get the inside cleaned up and move it into the basement. Might clean the legs up and bolt them on so I don't have to bend over as much. Then on to the head and cleaning the bottom board.

The chime box is shot, I'll need new coils and some chimes and bits I don't even know about yet. I might try to make some out of aluminum bar stock.

Could I use tubing? like a wind chime? Like 1 inch aluminum cut to different lengths? I would have to isolate them with rubber grommets like the current ones are, but it seems like it would work.

I've already planned to swap out the cord, that canister thing bugs me that nobody knows what it is, I'm going to leave it there until I know what it is.

Where do I connect the earth ground on the pinball machine?

Man, it's amazing how much it got played and how relatively good shape it's in. Got some other projects to work on tomorrow, but I hope to get to it some this week.

#78 9 years ago

My math was wrong. The game was set to 2 plays per quarter. Still, not to shabby.

#79 9 years ago

In your photo, just under the cylindrical thing, there is another solder lug with a green wire attached. More than likely, the only thing the green wire goes to is either the coin door frame or the metal power switch plate on the bottom (or both). They really didn't ground much of anything else back then and the two prong cord would have been standard equipment here in the US. Therefore, there really isn't a lot of electrical safety being added by installing the 3 prong cord unless you upgrade the grounding points inside the cabinet (lock down bar, side rails etc.).

Personally, I would just go with a 2 prong line cord. Now that Christmas is here, you can get 15 foot extension cords for cheap. You need that extra length to get it into the cabinet and along the wire loom to those solder eylets. A 15 3 prong line cord can be really expensive unless you have some long computer cords you can cut down. If you go through all the effort, I wouldn't want to use a length of 3 prong cord and then have a replacement plug on the end. A fresh molded plug would be the nicest upgrade. Of course, if the white zip cord is un-damaged on the outside of the machine and only needs a new plug, then just replace the plug.

If you go with the new 2 prong cord, make sure the wire going to the narrow spade on the plug goes to the line fuse and power switch. That way, when you turn it off, or it blows the fuse, the HOT (line) wire is disconnected and only the neutral remains connected in the game. If replacing with a 3 prong, make sure the black wire goes to the fuse/power switch. If you connect it the other way, the interior of the game can remain "hot" even though the switch is off or fuse is blown. And you could still get shocked if you are grounded in some way.

#80 9 years ago
Quoted from NextoPin:

My math was wrong. The game was set to 2 plays per quarter. Still, not to shabby.

Most meters in games are total plays, not total coins (yours may be different). And don't forget that the game may have been in home use for a good portion of its earlier life getting played to death as a free play game by young kids that weren't all that good at flipping.

Back in the day, games were often running around 30% free play (10% for match). So you also have to take that into account. Plus, free plays could be won off free plays but the average should have worked out to about 30% or the operator was losing money.

Just think what that $10K in 1972-1975 dollars would buy back then. I know I could get a large RC cola for 15 cents with 10 cents deposit on the bottle. And a single scoop of Ice Cream at Thrifty Drug and Discount store was a nickel.

Interesting site. Says a Frisbee was $0.94 !

http://www.thepeoplehistory.com/1972.html

#81 9 years ago
Quoted from CactusJack:

Most meters in games are total plays, not total coins (yours may be different). And don't forget that the game may have been in home use for a good portion of its earlier life getting played to death as a free play game by young kids that weren't all that good at flipping.
Back in the day, games were often running around 30% free play (10% for match). So you also have to take that into account. Plus, free plays could be won off free plays but the average should have worked out to about 30% or the operator was losing money.
Just think what that $10K in 1972-1975 dollars would buy back then. I know I could get a large RC cola for 15 cents with 10 cents deposit on the bottle. And a single scoop of Ice Cream at Thrifty Drug and Discount store was a nickel.
Interesting site. Says a Frisbee was $0.94 !
http://www.thepeoplehistory.com/1972.html

From the best I can figure from what the previous owner told me, It was in a bowling alley until about 1995-2000, I'm the first home user of this machine (as far as I know) as his father never fixed it after he bought it from the bowling alley after the fire.

The more I look at it and talk to other people about numbers they have seen on games, I think it may have flipped and it's 190k plays.

Just started reading this, Thanks Vid!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide

#82 9 years ago

This is a stepper under the playfield, I don't have the diagram so I'm not sure which one. It appears out of alignment. It looks like it has a lot of wear on it.

Is there an adjustment or is it wore out?

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#83 9 years ago

So, My sister, who know nothing about pinball but is fairly mechanically inclined stopped by and we are in the garage chatting and I'm showing her this stepper because I have the playfield out leaning against the workbench and she says that the board looks crooked. I hadn't noticed because I hadn't stepped back to look at it from a distance. She said why don't you try and turn it, so I did and everything lines up now and it steps properly now, Thanks sis!

I replaced the cord, per Vid's guide, It was a 2 prong, but there was an earth ground terminal that was not being used. I traced it and it was attached to the transformer base like in Vid's guide so I connected it and used a 3 prong plug.

I fired the game up, for the first time. I never powered it up when I bought it or when I got it home. It turned on, no lights, but the coin door coil was hummin, so at least I didn't trip a breaker or blow something up. but other than that, it seemed dead.

I checked the fuses (should have done that first) and the 24v 15a (I think) fuse was blown. I didn't have any so I used the one above it, just to see what it would do. I turned it on and some of the player 1 reels reset, I pressed start, it reset and I think it would have launched a ball into the shooter if there was one in the machine..all good signs of life.

I'm going to try to get some fuses tonight at Radio Shack and give it another try tonite.

If anyone has a Swinger of FF, can you please take a pic of the moving target from under the playfield? Mine looks like it's been "lovingly altered" and I need to see what it's supposed to look like.

Thanks for all the help so far, I'll take some more pics tonight.

#84 9 years ago

Looking at the schematics here: http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/972/Williams_Fun_Fest_EM_schematics.pdf it looks like I need the following fuses.

10A
10A
15A
15A
15A

But that's all I know. I can't find a manual for Swinger or Funfest, only the above schematic. I don't think I have enough information to buy the fuses, how many volts, what type, normal or slo-blow?

Thanks, any help would be appreciated.

#85 9 years ago

The schematic does not say, so probably the fuses are fast blow, 250v.

The one on the mains, is probably slow blow, 250v.

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#fuses

#86 9 years ago

This is what I picked up at RadioShack on my break

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#87 9 years ago

90,000 plays is actually fairly low for a game of that vintage and condition. I'd bet it's 190,000.

#88 9 years ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

90,000 plays is actually fairly low for a game of that vintage and condition. I'd bet it's 190,000.

The more I look into it, and the wear in some places, I'm going to agree. If so, that's pretty amazing.

I pretty much saved it from the dumpster, I hope I get to flip it again at 200k someday, but 10k plays at home will take a LONG time

#89 9 years ago

I was just thinking, even at 90k, this machine has played more games since 1972 than I have, and I'm including board games, video games, tag, Hide and seek, duck duck goose and twister.

#90 9 years ago

Swapped out the fuses and it's playing. Ball count unit appears to be seized, bonus swipe thing is stuck Replay unit is missing some peices. Left flipper is broke.

It resets, takes credits, ejects the ball, plays, scores, slings work, kickout, gate, kickback, moving target works, center post goes up and down, switches all seem to work.

OMG it really was just a fuse.

Need to fix the broken stuff, shop. Play.

I might make a playfield protector just to have a smooth surface, since I need to strip most of it off anyway.

1 week later
#91 9 years ago

Got it moved into the house. Still a little hint of bowling alley smell, but I think it's the playfield mostly now.
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My friend convinced me that a playfield protector is too much work for something I don't plan on keeping so I'm just going to clearcoat the current playfield and hope it fills in the cupped inserts and makes it playable. I'll have the replacement playfield touched up and cleared and replace it sometime down the road.

3 weeks later
#92 9 years ago

Rather than make a new thread, I'll try here first.

I need pop bumper bodies and skirts for Swinger (William's 1972). Can anyone tell me what the part numbers are, I don't have a manual for this game.

Thanks.

#93 9 years ago

Check planetary pinball theyes have the Williams parts manuals online.

Marco or PBR will have them

-Jeff

#94 9 years ago

Crap, I can't remember if it's AC or DC bumpers, I think it's DC. That's a great link, I didn't know those manuals were there, it's got the moving target assembly in there also. Thanks W2W!

#95 9 years ago

DC Jet bumpers on Swinger. That's what helped make it a great game. But the only thing I can think of that would be different in DC is the spoon switch assembly (tungsten points on top, probably a NO on the bottom instead of NC).

#96 9 years ago

Thanks CJ, I was petty sure it was DC.

Does anyone know of a place that sells the mylar rings for the bumpers in colors?

#97 9 years ago

So I'm cleaning up and the playfield that WilliamsFan sent me was in the way, so I started to move it. I haven't opened it, I just know what I saw from the pics earlier in this thread. I decided to open it. It's SOOOOOOO much better than what's in there now. I already need to replace the pops and flippers and fasten the stand up targets etc etc that I'll have a good 75% of the playfield removed so the swap will come sooner than I thought.

I'm putting it back together, broken bits and all so that we can play it over the holiday's, then I'm going to do the swap after new years.

I'll snap a pic of the playfield next time I have it out.

#98 9 years ago

Now you need the car. In 1972, I think, Dodge made a Dart with the name Swinger. I was thinking" only in the 70s" would they make a car by that name. Yes I know my punctuation is wrong.

#99 9 years ago

You did see the 1970 beetle in the pics, right?

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2 weeks later
#100 9 years ago

It's up and flipping!

Over the holiday I had my nephew over for a few days and he was helping me clean up the machine. He cleaned the playfield and plastics, took out all the rollovers and cleaned them and polished it all up with some Novus and waxed the playfield. This is still the original playfield, Down the road I'll do a playfield swap once I get it touched up and clear coated.

The game is currently stuck on ball 2 so I'm not sure yet if player2 is working yet, but it's keeping score on player 1 and all the features are working, the moving target, the gate, kickback etc etc.

There are 4 lights on the top of the playfield above the saucer, I have no idea what they do or how they are advanced, currently only the 3rd light is lit. I also haven't figured out how to light triple bonus.

Here's a couple pics I took last night. Thanks to everyone who helped with questions.

Swing1.jpgSwing1.jpgswing2.jpgswing2.jpgswing3.jpgswing3.jpgSwing4.jpgSwing4.jpg

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