(Topic ID: 211094)

Need to replace DE VUK coil with stronger coil


By jibmums

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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There have been 2 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

VUK kit (resized).jpg
090-5001-00 (resized).jpg

#1 1 year ago

I have a DE Simpsons and the right rear green habitrail VUK is working fine, but could use a bit more "oomph" in kicking the ball out. Currently I'd say half of the time the balls come back down and hit the edge of the lock hole, which is beating the shit out of the graphics at the edge of it. I've swapped coils with the other VUK, I've moved around the habitrail and VUK bracket to try to align them better, nothing else works, so I'd like to swap in the next-strongest coil. The current one is 090-5001-00, any idea what the next-strongest one would be? I have some Bally and Williams coils too, if any are compatible.

BTW, photo below is old, VUK was rebuilt with a kit from PBR.

090-5001-00 (resized).jpg

#2 1 year ago

Take the wrapper off an remove 1 or 2 layers of wire and retest.

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I have a DE Simpsons and the right rear green habitrail VUK is working fine, but could use a bit more "oomph" in kicking the ball out. Currently I'd say half of the time the balls come back down and hit the edge of the lock hole, which is beating the shit out of the graphics at the edge of it. I've swapped coils with the other VUK, I've moved around the habitrail and VUK bracket to try to align them better, nothing else works, so I'd like to swap in the next-strongest coil. The current one is 090-5001-00, any idea what the next-strongest one would be? I have some Bally and Williams coils too, if any are compatible.
BTW, photo below is old, VUK was rebuilt with a kit from PBR.

I had this issue on Jurassic park. The thread I found had people suggesting a rebuild of all the components. Also, double check whether the switch is fully activating. The coil was no any ones issue and I doubt it is yours

#4 1 year ago

Replace that rusty plunger and the sleeve

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Replace that rusty plunger and the sleeve

VUK has already been rebuilt with all new components from PBR. Photo is a "before" pic.

Quoted from PinballTilt:

I had this issue on Jurassic park. The thread I found had people suggesting a rebuild of all the components. Also, double check whether the switch is fully activating. The coil was no any ones issue and I doubt it is yours

Switch works just fine. I don't think the coil is the problem either, but replacing with a stronger one seems like the simplest solution.

Quoted from GRUMPY:

Take the wrapper off an remove 1 or 2 layers of wire and retest.

I was considering that. I've never understood the "remove wire to make coil stronger" thing though, it seems counterintuitive. Care to explain? If I had a 23-700 coil (with diode), that would be stronger than the 23-800 in the photo, correct?

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from jibmums:

VUK has already been rebuilt with all new components from PBR.

Switch works just fine. I don't think the coil is the problem either, but replacing with a stronger one seems like the simplest solution.

I was considering that. I've never understood the "remove wire to make coil stronger" thing though, it seems counterintuitive. Care to explain? If I had a 23-700 coil (with diode), that would be stronger than the 23-800 in the photo, correct?

More turns means a stronger electromagnet, we went through this recently in the lotr owners thread. So I think he's mistaken, removing windings will not increase the strength.

What components did you replace? If it was just the sleeve and plunger, that's not enough. I'll find the thread, but it was suggested to replace everything including the cup and switch. Some retailer was selling a data east rebuild kit. Need a punch for the roll pin.

Edit - here's the thread
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tftc-vuk-issue

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

More turns means a stronger electromagnet, we went through this recently in the lotr owners thread. So I think he's mistaken, removing windings will not increase the strength.
What components did you replace? If it was just the sleeve and plunger, that's not enough. I'll find the thread, but it was suggested to replace everything including the cup and switch. Some retailer was selling a data east rebuild kit. Need a punch for the roll pin.
Edit - here's the thread
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tftc-vuk-issue

Everything was replaced with this kit from Pinball Resource. Additionally, I replaced the coil sleeve and cleaned up the rest of the assembly, it's as "like new" as it's gonna get. I think the problem is just that between the VUK, the hole in the playfield the cap fits in, and the green habitrail, I just can't gets things perfectly aligned, no matter what I try.....and I've tried. I think a slightly stronger coil is the easiest solution, I just can't glean the strength from the part numbers.

VUK kit (resized).jpg

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

More turns means a stronger electromagnet

Not always true, more turns = more resistance, less current, weaker coil. For example your flipper coil has 2 windings. One high power and one low power. Which coil has more turns? The high power on a Williams flipper coil has 600 turns and the low power has 2600 turns.

Quoted from jibmums:If I had a 23-700 coil (with diode), that would be stronger than the 23-800 in the photo, correct?

Yes it would and it is available for sale if you do not want to mess with unwrapping your coil.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Not always true, more turns = more resistance, less current, weaker coil. For example your flipper coil has 2 windings. One high power and one low power. Which coil has more turns? The high power on a Williams flipper coil has 600 turns and the low power has 2600 turns.

Yes it would and it is available for sale if you do not want to mess with unwrapping your coil.

Read post 15
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/increasing-the-power-to-a-coil-remove-more-windings

In general, more windings = more force. Removing a few windings may help a little, then it makes it worse as you remove more

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

Read post 15
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/increasing-the-power-to-a-coil-remove-more-windings
In general, more windings = more force. Removing a few windings may help a little, then it makes it worse as you remove more

Yeah, but he'd have to remove half the windings to reach that point.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

In general, more windings = more force.

This would be true if the winding were not over lapping each over. When the winding are confined in such a small area the magnetism does not multiply on a 1 to 1 scale, but the resistance does. So once the coil has more then 10 to 15 layers on the bobbin then the resistance adds up faster the the magnetism making a weaker coil. Now if you made a coil bobbin two foot long and use the same amount of wire and the same gauge of wire as the 23/800 coil your new coil would be stronger and removing windings would only weaken it. But we are stuck with 2 inch coils and none of this applies to his question. That facts remain if you remove some windings as I suggested you will reduce the resistance more then the the amount of magnetism and lower resistance will allow more current, and current is what makes the magnetism in the first place. Post #3 from Chris also agrees with me.

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