(Topic ID: 261834)

Cyclone Mystery wheel award value opposite correct value.


By Frax

45 days ago



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  • 10 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 45 days ago by Frax
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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sb-06 (resized).jpg
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IMG_20200212_153432528 (resized).jpg

#1 45 days ago

I'm an idiot. I didn't take pictures and even something as simple as this isn't in the manual. *sigh* I just need some pics of the mystery wheel mech, IE. Which connectors go on the headers for the wheel, orientation of the board. Shouldn't need to remove it from the game, just open up the backboard and get pics from there. So dumb. I usually take pictures even for simple stuff. Idiot!

*Edit* go down to bottom for continued issue...

#2 45 days ago

Hope this helps.

IMG_20200212_153419033 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200212_153432528 (resized).jpg

-Paul

#3 45 days ago

Thank you. Do you, or does anyone, have a schematic of this stupid board? I can't find one anywhere. There's evidence of rework on one of the small transistors, but I don't know if it's the right part or not?

The motor turns the shaft just fine when it's not under load, but when I put the wheel on it, it's like it's too weak to consistently turn. I'm thinking it's some kind of power supply issue to one or both sides of the motor.

#4 45 days ago

Check the voltage to the motor, if the voltage is good, it's probably a bad motor. The wheel might be slipping on the shaft as well.

#5 45 days ago

Schematics were provided via a service bulletin...

sb-05 (resized).jpg

sb-06 (resized).jpg

#6 45 days ago
Quoted from Pablito350:

wheel might be slipping on the shaft as well.

Not that, already checked.

Do you know what the votages on each pin are supposed to show? I've got two that are .20v, one thats around 5v, and another at 10v.

The output on the board itself to all the motor wires shows around 4.8v, all four pins.

#7 45 days ago

1uf cap looks like it's swelled at both ends...don't like the look of that but I don't have a replacement handy or a spare board to pillage one off of. Ugh.

#8 45 days ago

I found the issue. The diode at D10 was failed open. I noticed a small crack when I was making sure all the transistors were correct, touched it and was like oh...that's a crack. Damn. Hit it with my meter and sure enough, no continuity. Replaced it with a 1N4004 (should be 1n4001), working great now!

#9 45 days ago

One problem fixed.

Now the value is reading opposite of where the clown points? The opto seems to be working fine, as it's seeing it, and it works in switch test.

How it's aligned on the stepper shaft *shouldn't* matter, yes? I wonder if someone replaced the face label at some point and put it on wrong...

#10 45 days ago

Nevermind. I'm still an idiot. I installed it upside down.LOL

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