(Topic ID: 148522)

Need new laser printer, what specs?


By tezting

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 20 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Superchicken
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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    #1 4 years ago

    Hi,
    I would like to replace my Injekt printer at home with a color laser printer so I can print my water slide decals at home.
    What should I be aware of? The main difference I can see is that some printers has 600 * 2400 DPI and others have 1200 x 1200 DPI?
    Do I need 1200 or could 600 be enough? Also the type of paper they can handle is on some limited.

    My goal is of course to be able to print super sharp and great looking water slide decals

    #2 4 years ago

    I purchased an Okidata C531dn.

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6ZP31F3956&cm_re=okidata-_-28-107-685-_-Product

    It has features that help with color matching which is my biggest challenge. The color saturation is OK. I'd like to see blacker blacks. I may just need to spend some more time tuning it though.

    #3 4 years ago
    Quoted from Superchicken:

    I'd like to see blacker blacks.

    Do you think it is a setting or is it because of the model/dpi?

    #4 4 years ago

    I think it is more the nature of laser on thin membrane. Sometimes if I'm doing clear decals I will double them up on top of each other. But yes still playing with the settings.

    sw1_(resized).PNGsw2_(resized).PNG

    #5 4 years ago
    Quoted from tezting:

    Do you think it is a setting or is it because of the model/dpi?

    I use a business-class color copier to print my decals. The blacks are true black.

    However, if you have wear spots where the wood is showing, you'll need to fill and paint them neutral gray, otherwise the wear spot will be somewhat visible through the decal.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-touchdown-playfield-repairs-with-waterslide-decals

    #6 4 years ago

    Dell 1250C has worked wonders for me. Believe I found it on sale a few years ago too for around 85$

    -Jim

    #7 4 years ago

    Yup, you are gonna need a good laser.
    Keep in mind, a toner printer can only create blends of 3 colors. ask a photographer, they have lots of trouble matchin colors on a laser.

    #8 4 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    I use a business-class color copier to print my decals. The blacks are true black.

    Could you share the model?

    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    However, if you have wear spots where the wood is showing, you'll need to fill and paint them neutral gray, otherwise the wear spot will be somewhat visible through the decal.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-touchdown-playfield-repairs-with-waterslide-decals

    Thanks, I will level it by dropping 2PAC do you think that is enough or should I also paint it after the 2PAC?

    Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

    Dell 1250C has worked wonders for me. Believe I found it on sale a few years ago too for around 85$
    -Jim

    Do you think it looks like true/painted black?

    Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

    Yup, you are gonna need a good laser.

    I know, that why I am asking so I buy the right one

    #9 4 years ago
    Quoted from tezting:

    Could you share the model?

    It's a konica minolta. Not sure of the model off-hand. I think the retail price on it is something like $10-$15k...probably a bit out a hobbyist's price range.

    Quoted from tezting:

    Thanks, I will level it by dropping 2PAC do you think that is enough or should I also paint it after the 2PAC?

    I haven't tried it. Print two copies and do a test fit. If it works without needing the neutral gray, great. If not, just spray down some neutral gray on top of the worn area, then put the decal over it.

    #10 4 years ago

    Your base should be white. That is the color of the backing paper for the decal. Anything else will change the color when mounted. The exception to this is when the color underneath matches the decal. Waterslide decals are very thin. Vinyl decals not so much.

    #11 4 years ago

    I bought a (amazon.com link »)

    to try this, however I have not had to opportunity - one day maybe I will try it.

    #12 4 years ago
    Quoted from Superchicken:

    Your base should be white. That is the color of the backing paper for the decal. Anything else will change the color when mounted. The exception to this is when the color underneath matches the decal. Waterslide decals are very thin. Vinyl decals not so much.

    That doesn't work well for a spot repair. It shows through the decal. Neutral gray is a better match.

    If you were doing an overlay for the whole playfield, then white would be the way to go.

    #13 4 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    That doesn't work well for a spot repair. It shows through the decal. Neutral gray is a better match.
    If you were doing an overlay for the whole playfield, then white would be the way to go.

    Here is a trough that got filled in under the white decal. It should gotten painted white first:

    9b_(resized).PNG

    I mask the areas and airbrush white. You have to have a boarder to end on:
    IMG_20140308_233545_(resized).jpg

    #14 4 years ago

    My 2 cents... avoid Brother MFC consumer models. Horrible red saturation.
    For black its fine.

    As ForceFlow noted about, I've also had good luck with our business Ricoh MFP color printers & copiers at work.
    (just can't abuse... I only do the rare occasional decal or apron card)
    (and cross-fingers when feeding laser decal paper into machine at work... would be an embarrising/potention very bad thing if I jammed a work printer with personal goofing around)

    #15 4 years ago

    Here are things to look for:
    Separate toner cartridges for each color plus black
    LED printheads - low temp so less chance of melting your decal
    Color management interface - color matching is the number 1 challenge
    SD Memory expansion
    Can print on transparencies or velum - used to print drafts for alignment. Many printers can't do this.

    IMG_20140309_141307_(resized).jpg

    #16 4 years ago

    I've read that the print quality with LED printers isn't as good. But, I haven't actually seen a side-by-side comparison yet.

    #17 4 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    I've read that the print quality with LED printers isn't as good. But, I haven't actually seen a side-by-side comparison yet.

    The line art on playfields don't really demand high resolution. If there is a difference it would show up in photos.

    #18 4 years ago
    Quoted from Superchicken:

    The line art on playfields don't really demand high resolution. If there is a difference it would show up in photos.

    Good point, but print quality also includes things like color gamut and noise. Resolution is just one factor.

    #19 4 years ago

    Thank you all for the input.
    Could this be a good solution? :
    HP Color LaserJet Pro MFP M176n
    It seems nice that is also has a scanner

    #20 4 years ago

    PC Mag has a good review section for printers. I'm not a fan of multifunction printers for desktop publishing. If the printer cost is $300 and has a scanner, then the cost of the scanner gets taken out of the printer. Xerox and OKI have a good rep for laser DTP. Epson has good inkjets. Laser class LED printers have an advantage when printing waterslide decals because they run cool compared Laser printers. It only takes one melted decal in the drum and you throw the printer away. Read the decal vendor's instructions about this. There are LED printers that don't preform well doing graphics so read the reviews. Also pay attention to paper handling. Decal paper is heavy. You don't want it to have to make a U-turn when it is fed to the top of the printer. A flat feed out the side is important. Printing transparencies is very important for me as I do a lot of PF repair work. Making sure everything registers correctly with the existing art can take many small adjustments. You don't want to burn through decal paper doing that.

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