I picked up an re-import Creature From the Black Lagoon and just finished fixing the jumpers.
I have converted System 11 games in the past, but never an WPC.
I noticed that the WPC games have a three prong receiver in the back of the game, but I recall having to make some changes in the junction box adjacent the power switch with System 11 games and I want to make sure I don't blow this sucker up.
See pics of what I have done and what I have, and thanks in advance for your help.
Can I just attach a three prong power cable and go, or do I have more work to do?

IMG_8243 (resized).JPGIMG_8244 (resized).JPGIMG_8245 (resized).JPG

P.S., I cracked open my reimport TZ (converted before I got it) to see how that looked. It looked pretty much just like the CFTBL.

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So apart from the MOV, can I at least start to power it up, and check it out while I am waiting for my MOV to arrive?

So any advice on how to slowly power this up without blowing fuses?
I remember doing that with my system 11 games, disconnecting different high voltage areas then slowly bringing different connectors online.

So I went ahead and powered it up. BIG noise on start up. Disconnected sound card and tried again.
Went into attract mode just fine, doesn't see the balls yet.
But what's the deal with the sound?
I'm afraid to connect the sound connectors.

This is no bong. It is a consistent solid shriek, the volume control makes no difference.
I had to disconnect one of the connectors to stop it. So no sounds for now....
any ideas?

OK, here is something weird. The ribbon cable for the display appears to be installed backwards on the display board.
The red line on the ribbon cable is on the right, rather than the left (pin 1 appears to be on the left side at J603, see image) however...it appears to be working.
I checked another WPC game I have, and the cable is installed the other way, with the red line on the left side at J603, adjacent pin 1.
What's going on?
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Awesome, thanks!

When you say you have the same problem, which problem do you mean.....the audio problem?

Check out C-28.
I don't think it is supposed to look like that.
This may be part of the problem.
Time to call Chris Hibler!

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I had that problem and swapped out the ribbon cables....problem fixed.

I was going to swap in a sound card from another game, but here is my question:
If the cap fried itself, what is to prevent the same thing from happening again when I pop in the other sound card?
I want to make sure that I have addressed any underlying problem.
OR is it more likely that the failure at C-28 is primarily due to the age of the board?