(Topic ID: 125341)

FIXED: Did I Blow Up My TZ?


By seshpilot

4 years ago



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  • 13 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by seshpilot
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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338467-i.jpg

#1 4 years ago

I need help. I am rebuilding a TZ and have some really weird stuff happening. I'm so close to being done, but am now ready to pull my hair out! Let me describe what's going on:

-At first, the left ramp switch was triggering more than just that particular switch. It was also triggering lower lock, center lock, and upper lock (as well as one of the trough switches---can't remember which one). Those individual switches all worked fine, but the ramp switch would trigger all of them as well.

-While trying to fix that, I lifted up the playfield and must have pulled on something while doing so because all of a sudden the display went out (only a few vertical lines show now). I also noticed that the game is doing some really weird things now like trying to look for the ball in the auto-fire lane and the slot kickout, and the left jet bumper isn't working. I've looked but can't find anything odd, and can't diagnose really because the display won't work!

-In an effort to fix that, I thought, "hey maybe I just blew one of the switch matrix chips. I know, I'll pop my working Whitewater board in (with the TZ ROM) and see if that fixes it." Well, now that board isn't working either so I've definitely got a blown chip on both of those board, as well as something touching that shouldn't be somewhere.

Any help appreciated!

#2 4 years ago

First thing that comes to mind is connectors mixed up, switch wired wrong, or a short to switch wiring.

Start going over your work carefully.

LTG : )™

#3 4 years ago

Okay well, I'm trying to first fix the board that goes to my WH2O. None of the switches are registering except for the coin door and the EOS switches. Did I blow U18 and U19? Would that do it?

#4 4 years ago

No switches are registering?
Scroll down a bit from here...
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Switch_Matrix_Problems

Get out your logic probe and see if the columns are strobing.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#5 4 years ago

Is F115 blown on your driver board in the TZ? If so, you won't have any switches because you'd have no regulated 12v for the matrix. If that is blown, you may have shorted 50v to the switch matrix, which would knock out your U20 chip and possibly U14.

When you say the left ramp switch in your original problem, is that switch #53 Left Ramp Enter or #54 Left Ramp? Sounds like your original issue could have been a switch wired backwards or possibly a shorted switch. Did you replace any switches or desolder any during your rebuild? Go look at all the switches that make up the Square. If #54 causes the phantom closures, look at it, as well as 45, 44, and 55. If switch #53 is causing the phantoms, look at switches 35, 33, and 55. Check for bent switch lugs that could be shorting together too.

Since some of the phantoms are optos, you could have a bad LM339 chip on your 10 switch opto pcb under the playfield. Disconnect the power plugin to that board and see if your phantom switch issue goes away.

#6 4 years ago

You could have bent a lamp socket against a coil lug so it is shorted all the time, explaining why your other working board is now non-working.

Do a visual under the playfield with power off and look at each coil, then see if any lamp sockets, terminals, etc are touching.

#7 4 years ago

Okay, so I was wrong about a few things. Still having problems and need help, but...

1. WH20 is working just fine. I am a dork and accidentally forgot to plug in the switch column plug.
2. Both computer boards for WH20 and TZ are working fine. I checked both of them in my working WH20. No blown chips here.
3. The DMD is testing fine in WH20 but not working in TZ. Image looks like this when in TZ:
338467-i.jpg

4. The ribbon cables are all fine. I tested them in WH20 with no problems.
5. The DMD Driver Board is testing fine in WH20 as well. This means that it's not the computer board, DMD, ribbons cables, or DMD Driver Board.

I can't really test anything until I get the DMD up and showing again. Any help?

#8 4 years ago

Okay I fixed it. TP1 was reading 3v which made me want to double check F116. Sure enough, it wasn't good (and I had checked it!).

Now onto the switch error...

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from Big70:

Is F115 blown on your driver board in the TZ? If so, you won't have any switches because you'd have no regulated 12v for the matrix. If that is blown, you may have shorted 50v to the switch matrix, which would knock out your U20 chip and possibly U14.
When you say the left ramp switch in your original problem, is that switch #53 Left Ramp Enter or #54 Left Ramp? Sounds like your original issue could have been a switch wired backwards or possibly a shorted switch. Did you replace any switches or desolder any during your rebuild? Go look at all the switches that make up the Square. If #54 causes the phantom closures, look at it, as well as 45, 44, and 55. If switch #53 is causing the phantoms, look at switches 35, 33, and 55. Check for bent switch lugs that could be shorting together too.
Since some of the phantoms are optos, you could have a bad LM339 chip on your 10 switch opto pcb under the playfield. Disconnect the power plugin to that board and see if your phantom switch issue goes away.

It is switch 54. It's causing switches 54, 74, and 84 to be triggered.

#10 4 years ago

Since one of the phantom switches is an opto....#84, let's make sure the under playfield opto pcb isn't the issue. Unplug the large power plug on that board and retest switch 54. If the problem has gone away, you've got an issue on that board. Suspect one of the LM339 chips. If no change, look at all the switches in the square of #54.....so 54,44,45,55. Check them all for being miswired, test the diodes, make sure the switch lugs aren't bent shorting together.

#11 4 years ago

I see you had a second thread going on this issue as just the switch issue and #54 was miswired. Glad you got her figured out.

#13 4 years ago

The other thread was about something else which drifted into this topic (hence why I posted FIXED in the title). Yep, the switch was simply wired backwards. Thanks

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