5500 to 6000

6000 to 6500. What is he asking? Prices on TAF are way high right now.

Check the boards for damage from old batteries. It shows "factory settings restored" so either the batteries are dead and need replaced or there may be damage from batteries leaking.

I was thinking $5000+ for sure as long as it is mostly (or fully) working. I don't know if I would go much over $5500 unless you have someone with some experience check it over for you. Buying your first couple machines it is easy to miss something that could make hundreds of dollars difference in value so you are better off assuming the worst.

LEDs add no value whatsoever IMO. Just something else to pull out and get rid of.

The baseline for a TAF that boots and mostly functions is pretty much $5k. I've seen a few in the $4500-$4800 range with blown out playfields with magnet burn.

This one, however, I could see being snapped up quick for $5500 or less. For $6000, it might sit a little longer than 10 minutes, but it will still probably move within a few days.

Nope. The ROMs are freely available, and you can burn new ones yourself with EPROMs and a burner.

There is *some* value to LEDs. You can resell them for maybe half the original retail value if you *really* don't want them.

But for all intents & purposes here, it doesn't have much bearing on the asking price for the game.

Good advice. Best thing you can do for your first pin is find someone in your area that knows pinball to ride along and point out any issues for you. You'll learn a lot and avoid making costly mistakes. Post in your regional "buy/sell games" thread and someone will almost certainly volunteer to help you out.

No, that's like a $10 chip swap.

Maybe, but then there is the labor involved and the cost of new incandescents to replace them and repairing or replacing any sockets oversized LEDs have jacked up, albeit perhaps not as much as you can sell used LEDs for if you find a buyer and want to deal with that.

100% agree, $5,500 is a fair offer.

Somehow, I don't see someone going back to incandescents on TAF.

$5500 is fair but think $5800 is more realistic and at that point do you really want to walk away from a nice local TAF for $200? Probably be that a year from now anyway. I would pay up to $6k and get the game in your house.

Of course I don’t know what he is asking.

I agree, especially when lads look so much better, less load on the GI circuit, and last longer

For me LEDs are distracting for the most part. IMHO LEDs do not look good in pre DMD games, but each to his own.

I'm 90% sure Addams has a DMD.

I've recently been putting all my games back to incandecent that were previously converted including the DMD games I own. It is much easier on the eyes and easier to track the ball especially with invisiglass installed.

My first thought was $6500 max and work from that on a look over and play.

Have you ever tried the warm white leds? In my opinion they look similar to incandecents but with all the benefits of led technology.

I agree. Warm whites with domes to disperse the light are what I use. Worth it just for the reduced stress on the system.

I've tried them all and installed them all. In all different games. Used to be the point was to add a little more light in an otherwise dark game, but the trade off is the light doesn't always spread very well so you have to go even brighter. Then there is the inherent flicker even in the most expensive non-ghosting leds. Incandescents flicker as well, but it is much more natural and less noticeable.

What I found does work real well is invisiglass on a game with incandescents and seeing is no longer a problem, and at the same time the game now has that original look without those blinding leds.

Came to head a couple weeks ago with my fully led'd Dirty Harry siting next to my incandescent HS2 and I could see those high dollar frosted domed leds flickering behind the translate and HS2 with it's warm natural glow. It's done now and much more soothing on the eyes, and now the LED'd Earthshaker is waiting on another batch of bulbs to finish the project. Earthshaker's backglass and inserts are way better now, just need some more bulbs for the GI.

Again the whole secret of all this evolves around the invisiglass, without which, again it would be kind of hard to see. But arcades never had that stuff back in the day, and the games were still very playable.

Going thru the system and bulletproofing connectors is part of the procedure as well, but that is something that ought to be done anyway no matter what bulb you use. As far as excessive heat, they don't stay on 12 hours a day and winter will be here before you know it anyway.