(Topic ID: 264353)

Need help with NBA Fastbreak Check Fuses F101, F109 J127 and the 12 vo

By Wally69

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 14 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Treadswax
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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    #1 4 years ago

    Hey Gang
    My FB is showing error “ Check Fuses F101, F109 J127 and the 12 volt opto supply” and/or “slam tilt stuck closed”
    When game boots, I usually get error “ Check Fuses F101, F109 J127 and the 12 volt opto supply” If I get error “slam tilt stuck closed” first,I close a slam tilt switch and then game appears to start for a couple seconds then DMD shows “ Check Fuses F101, F109 J127 and the 12 volt opto supply” I checked continuity and both slam tilt switches are open as they should be.
    I checked fuses, all good. I have 11.9v DC at F101 and TP100. I measured 6 volts at F109 (I think F109 is from transformer J127 and is AC volts so not sure if I have DVM leads correctly) I followed schematic and measure 12v DC at all opto boards ( gray-yellow wires) and grounds OK. All other TP’s have correct volts too
    I read an old post on similar issue with TOTAN where u20 was culprit so replaced u20(2803) same problem!

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/need-help-with-totan-check-fuses-f101-f109-j127-the-opto-12v-supply#post-2282365

    Also the diagnostic switches on door don’t work (just error codes appear on DMD)
    If I drop in a coin I hear the “added credit sound” but DMD only shows error
    I’m stumped

    #2 4 years ago

    Do a diode test on all the big diodes on the power driver board.

    #3 4 years ago
    Quoted from Wally69:

    Hey Gang
    My FB is showing error “ Check Fuses F101, F109 J127 and the 12 volt opto supply” and/or “slam tilt stuck closed”
    When game boots, I usually get error “ Check Fuses F101, F109 J127 and the 12 volt opto supply” If I get error “slam tilt stuck closed” first,I close a slam tilt switch and then game appears to start for a couple seconds then DMD shows “ Check Fuses F101, F109 J127 and the 12 volt opto supply” I checked continuity and both slam tilt switches are open as they should be.
    I checked fuses, all good. I have 11.9v DC at F101 and TP100. I measured 6 volts at F109 (I think F109 is from transformer J127 and is AC volts so not sure if I have DVM leads correctly) I followed schematic and measure 12v DC at all opto boards ( gray-yellow wires) and grounds OK. All other TP’s have correct volts too
    I read an old post on similar issue with TOTAN where u20 was culprit so replaced u20(2803) same problem!
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/need-help-with-totan-check-fuses-f101-f109-j127-the-opto-12v-supply#post-2282365
    Also the diagnostic switches on door don’t work (just error codes appear on DMD)
    If I drop in a coin I hear the “added credit sound” but DMD only shows error
    I’m stumped

    Any signs of battery corrosion on the cpu?Thats the first thing that messes up the diagnostic buttons

    #4 4 years ago
    Quoted from pinmike:

    Any signs of battery corrosion on the cpu?Thats the first thing that messes up the diagnostic buttons

    WPC-95 CPU boards place the batteries in the upper left part of the CPU board. Alkaline corrosion usually affects other parts of that board before it affects the ICs in the switch matrix circuit.

    Having said that ... alkaline goes where alkaline wants to go.

    #5 4 years ago
    Quoted from DumbAss:

    WPC-95 CPU boards place the batteries in the upper left part of the CPU board. Alkaline corrosion usually affects other parts of that board before it affects the ICs in the switch matrix circuit.
    Having said that ... alkaline goes where alkaline wants to go.

    Damn man I was just asking before he starts digging deep.It was just a basic question.When I was helping guys with their pins you were still reading up on repair guides

    #6 4 years ago
    Quoted from pinmike:

    Damn man I was just asking before he starts digging deep.It was just a basic question.

    Sorry. I think you misunderstood. I agree that alkaline can cause a problem that manifests like this. The odds on WPC-89 are much higher than on WPC-95 (but not zero) due to the battery location.

    Quoted from pinmike:

    When I was helping guys with their pins you were still reading up on repair guides

    We both don't know each other's past experience. I don't think this helps solve the problem. Let's just agree that we're both trying to help.

    Quoted from Wally69:

    I’m stumped

    It looks like there's a good +12VR (TP100 measured).

    If the diagnostic switches don't work you should try to differentiate if it's the physical switches in the coin door or on the board. You can either test the switches with a multimeter or short the direct switch pins on the CPU board to verify. If shorting the direct switch pins does not work then you'll probably need a logic probe. The odds are good that it's on the CPU board but without any history or pictures of the switches they cannot be ruled out.

    A picture of the CPU board (focused and well lit) will also help as problems can often be seen on the boards (such as alkaline corrosion).

    #7 4 years ago

    I’ll see machine again Wednesday morning
    I can test diodes and diagnostic switches
    No acid damage
    thanks all

    #8 4 years ago

    OK so I tested all diodes on power driver board and on the coin door board, all good
    I also checked continuity from diagnostic switches all the way to CPU board, all OK
    I have a logic probe but only used it once and needed someone tell me where and what to probe
    Zero acid damage on CPU

    #9 4 years ago
    Quoted from DumbAss:

    Sorry. I think you misunderstood. I agree that alkaline can cause a problem that manifests like this. The odds on WPC-89 are much higher than on WPC-95 (but not zero) due to the battery location.

    Look I’ve seen all kinds of weird shit happens when it comes to WPC 89 or 95 and those freaking batteries might have been in there for 25 years!!

    We both don't know each other's past experience. I don't think this helps solve the problem. Let's just agree that we're both trying to help.

    I’ve been here long enough to notice who’s who and a name like dumbass nobody’s gonna forget that.

    #10 4 years ago

    Look I’ve seen all kinds of weird shit happens when it comes to WPC 89 or 95 and those freaking batteries might have been in there for 25 years!!

    I’ve been here long enough to notice who’s who and a name like dumbass nobody’s gonna forget that.

    #11 4 years ago

    Hi,
    I've been working on this game with Wally, and I wanted to add a couple things that I have observed that might help to pinpoint the issue.

    When we first turn the game on, the boot screen shows, there is one chime, and it goes right away to the "Slam tilt switch stuck open" It stays that way until the slam tilt switch is manually triggered, which resets the game, the screen goes to the boot screen again, and then it displays the "Check fuses F101...and 12V opto power" screen.

    I have had another WPC95 game in the past (although i forget which one) where that screen prevented the game from even entering the main game phase, where the menu could be accessed and other diagnostics done. So I wonder: A. if the stuck slam tilt issue is related to the game being unable to boot correctly, or B. Are they separate issues that are confusing each other.

    There are definitely some other required fixes to the game, most notably a pop bumper that was destroyed under the playfield. Its very possible that some of that coil power could have come into contact with a switch and backfired into that u20/ULN2803A chip on the CPU board. So we disconnected the power from that pop bumper before replacing that chip on the CPU board, and that did not fix our problem. Believe it or not, I still have one more chip left to try in the event that we just fried the new one too.

    Thank you all again for your help! The people of pinside are the absolute best when we want to get our games working again!

    #12 4 years ago

    Try unplugging power to the 7 Switch Opto board (under the playfield) and see if anything changes. Like maybe the test switch will start working and check fuse error goes away. If no change start checking your diodes on the playfield switches. Starting with the messed up pop bumper switch diode.

    #13 4 years ago

    unplugging power to the 7 Switch Opto board and Nothing changed
    I’ll check switch diodes next time I have a chance
    Thanks again all

    10 months later
    #14 3 years ago

    Just found put this was happening to mine as well. Did you ever come up with a solution? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

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