(Topic ID: 134062)

Need help with GLM 10 opto board in DW (OSB-10A)

By dl9589

8 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by Catch86
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 8 years ago

Haven't been able to get ahold of Tony for a few weeks since buying the board; he is probably busy but I really just need to move forward with helping get my friends DW fixed so I'm hoping someone here may be able to help.

Here is background (sorry about the length...)

(before installing new GLM opto board) All the features of DW work as they should, BUT as the game is on for awhile, it starts to give free time expander factor awards (even when mini playfield all the way down) and less often when mini playfield is all the way up it awards the jackpot shot w/o shooting it. It awards "randomly" any of the time expander or jackpot shots so it isn't just isolated to one or two of the opto switches.

Note my friends game just started doing this - he has had the game for 2-3 years w/o having these issues.

Pulled the OEM 10 opto board and it is crispy - all the solder joints on the ceramic resistors were cracked as well as the PCB itself is brown and cracked alot. Solder joints were reflowed but didn't make any difference - same symptoms as above. Tried another power driver board as well as I have a known good spare just because it was easy to do and still no difference.

Ordered the GLM opto board figuring it was either the problem or at worst someday soon that OEM board was going to need work and the game would need it.

Unfortunately, when the GLM board is installed, the game now at powerup gives one or a couple of these error messages (I haven't turned the game on / off a million times so maybe I could get a few others if I did that):

No CW movement of mini play field
No CCW movement of the mini play field
Opto switch 71 bad
Opto switch 75 bad

All of these errors are related to optos that go through that board as I assume the CW / CCW movement error is that there is something related to the mini playfield home opto the game doesn't like now.

With the CW/CCW errors, the mini playfield goes up / down a few times and doesn't stop in the correct position (stops on either 2nd or 3rd level).

So, I concede I don't know the root cause of the original problem and that it might be also be contributing to the issues when the GLM board is installed - what should I be looking at? I just don't understand why the GLM board doesn't like some of the optos right at powerup when the OEM board is ok with them...

#2 8 years ago

I've had problems with both an OSB-10A and a OSB-10B recently. Both issues are related to false switch hits and both issues are resolved when rebuilt OEM boards are installed. I've also been having trouble getting in touch with Tony to find out what the issue might be. I'm suspecting it is related to an increased sensitivity to variances in the 12V leg vs the OEM board but I haven't been able to prove it.

1 week later
#3 8 years ago

With the original board in, what errors show up when in the switch test? I had a problem with this before and it turned out to be U3 (LM339). I just in the past week had a problem similar to the random awards and the playfield stopping and starting in random positions as well as the VUK (Opto popper) chattering. When I put the machine in the Test Switches mode Row 1 and 3 were completely lit. Removing J4 and J6 got rid of that but ultimately it turned out to be that the output of U3 pin 13 was varying at around 2 to 6 volts. Since U3 was replaced by me before I changed the IC and it still failed. When I removed the board and took out the U1, U2 and U3 (All are socketed now) I started doing resistance checks and measuring at R39 I was measuring a varying resistance close to 1 Mohm. R39 is a 100K so I lifted one leg of the resistor and it measured 100K. I then measured from pad that the lead was desoldered from to the soldered lead of the resistor and measured the same varying resistance. Turns out that there was a lot of solder flux under the socket which was causing a leakage between the pins of the socket. I also removed C1 to make sure it wasn't contributing to this and found that someone had replaced it in the past and the top layer solder pad of the + side of the cap was completely gone. So after all that long winded explanation it looks like it was just solder flux under the socket. After removing the socket and cleaning and fixing the + side of the pad for C1(which was still connected in a different way) I can now measure R39 and it reads 100K.

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