(Topic ID: 265064)

Need help with Black Knight slingshot switches.

By wrd1972

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 13 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by KJL
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 4 years ago

Okay I am going through and cleaning and adjusting the BL sling switches. I understand that these coils are not fired by the driver board, but I am looking for an explanation of what the one single switch does on the bottom, and how its supposed to be adjusted. Not talking about the two triggering switches. I am referring to the one that appears to be used like a EOS switch.

The sling coil seems to work the same regardless of the state of this mystery switch. It also appears that it may have been installed or adjusted incorrectly by a previous own. It is servery bent in the down direction.

Thanks

#2 4 years ago

I believe that would be the scoring switch. Tells when to add score for ball hitting sling.

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from Chisel:

I believe that would be the scoring switch. Tells when to add score for ball hitting sling.

Well duh. Thats makes total sense. LOL

Still an issue with one sling with respect to power, but I dont think its switches. The right sling just has no power behind it. It gives a very minor kick, but nothing like it should the Left sling has the kick it should.

The right sling will give a very weak "jack hammer" if you hold a switch closed. But not like the "jack hammer" on the left sling. I have cleaned the switches with a flexstone and they even appear to look good. So I dont think its the switches or switch gap, and nothing is bound up either.

I guess I am at a slight loss since these sling coils dont go through the driver board.
Any ideas?

Thanks again

#4 4 years ago
Quoted from wrd1972:

Well duh. Thats makes total sense. LOL
Still an issue with one sling with respect to power, but I dont think its switches. The right sling just has no power behind it. It gives a very minor kick, but nothing like it should the Left sling has the kick it should.
The right sling will give a very weak "jack hammer" if you hold a switch closed. But not like the "jack hammer" on the left sling. I have cleaned the switches with a flexstone and they even appear to look good. So I dont think its the switches or switch gap, and nothing is bound up either.
I guess I am at a slight loss since these sling coils dont go through the driver board.
Any ideas?
Thanks again

Before we move on,check the slingshot plastic the 2 screws holding that plastic piece might be screwed on to tightly

#5 4 years ago

And if both sling coils are firing it’s not a transistor problem.It could be that the coil needs cleaning such as coil sleeve,spring,plunger ect

#6 4 years ago

The sling solenoids are fired directly by the driver board. If they are all working but weak, I would think it would either be a connection issue (bad wiring, bad playfield plug connections etc.) , or mechanical issue (misadjusted or dirty switches, binding mechanisms etc.).

#7 4 years ago

The plastic is removed. And I can confidently say there is no bind of mechanisms. Coil and sleeve are brand new. I do now see where the driver board is indeed firing the sling coils. I am also seeing 31V DC being provided to both coils. I assume thats good since the left coil works as it should.

What about the small cap on the one sling switch? What role does it play? BTW it is wired up correctly. Might it be worn?

#8 4 years ago

When you grounded the power , were you grounding to the cab or to the ground wire used by the coil, make both provide continuity for 31v.

Are the small coil wires attached to the tabs properly, are your solder joints good?

If you have power and there is no physical binding, then it has to be the coil, so all I can suggest is to swap the coils and test.

I've had 2 new ones that were bad out of the box recently.

Mine doesn't have any caps, so not sure on that one.

#9 4 years ago

Okay the scoring switch for that sling was installed wrong. It was producing a lot of mechanical resistance therefore robbing the sling of power. Thats now fixed.

Also the sling spring was weak and needed a stretching till I can get a pair of new ones. This was effecting the operation of the scoring sensor. So I think I am now starting to understand how this mech works. But as "luck" would have it, I have a new issue.

That right sling coil is now energized all of the time during play or in diag mode. So I was figuring I had the shorted Q2 transistor that powers that coil. So I checked it for shorts, and there are no shorts on it. I have checked the triggering switches for the sling, and they are not stuck closed. I am thinking something failed from the extensive troubleshooting I was doing on the coil.

So if Q2 is not shorted, and the triggering switches are not shorted either. What else would be causing the right sling coil to be stuck powered on?

Thanks for the help guys.

#11 4 years ago

Coil diode is good. Coil remains powered all of the time.

#12 4 years ago

So it appears that something is causing pin7 on 2J12 to go straight to ground, all the time during game play, or when in the diag mode. BTW I tested this directly at the board, so the PF is not causing this. Thats why that sling is remaining powered at all times.

Just checked Q2, and it is not shorted. WTH? I would normally expect to see a transistor like this shorted out for this condition.

#13 4 years ago

Check out the schematic here. I haven't fixed one of these in a few years

http://pinball.flippers.info/driver2.pdf

If 2J12-7 is connected to ground with the connector off it could be the drive or predrive transistor the 7402 or the 7408

The 7408 takes the switch input through 2J13-5 AND/OR the CPU (from the solenoid test) and outputs a high on pin 3.

When this is combined with the game up signal at the 7402 it sets pin 1 of IC9 high which should fire the predriver then the driver. When Q2 is fired, it connects 2J12-7 to ground through the flipper relay.

Disconnect the solenoid trigger 2J13 also to eliminate that as a problem as well as 2J12

Figure out which leg of Q2 goes to ground and which goes to the 2J12 connector. Check for continuity between these 2 legs (short)
In game over or with a game started, check if IC9 Pin 1 is high. Do the same with IC6 pin 3

that is a good start. Good luck

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