The fuses and their placement are accurate. You don't want to put a fuse in the low line holder..
If the Reset relay for Player 2 (and 5) switches are clean and adjusted properly, I'd recheck
the run-out switch in the 2nd Player 1s score reel that opens only when the reel is on zero..
If you're having problems with the lights and they're suppose to be flashing, it very possible
is a contact that runs off of the score motor's cam, and it would be one that runs off of a
cam that has multiple teeth. The lighting could also come from a Flash motor, but I think the
flash motor would only be for the speed scoring..

If the other score reels are resetting okay, then there isn't any other contacts. If the run-out switch and reset switches are okay,
you may need to do some jumping to see where a possible broken wire may be, but I's maybe first recheck the contacts and
their solder joints and possible loose wires..

It's not uncommon that the Mark Relay's switches need additional cleaning and adjusting.
Note: At times, not only the Relay that is energized is carrying the circuit, but also that player's
relay's mate could also be carrying the lights circuit even though it's not presently energized..
When a Strike or Spare suppose to be lit, you'll want to check all contacts in both of
that Player's Strike/Spare Relays..

If it's not the switches in the relay(s), with the machine off, you can take the bulb out
and carefully push that little sockets center tab in a little bit so it has more pressure on
the tail of the bulb.
If there's a socket that's not so easy to get from the backside, with a tiny Allen wrench,
you can pull that tab a hair..
Although some say they had, I really didn't have much problems with Bally sockets..

I believe those bulbs that are not lit under the pin deck is on the same circuit as the "Shoot Again"
light which should be lit when the Score Motor isn't moving (energized). I'm pretty sure it's a set
of switches off a Score Motor cam that should be closed when the Score Motor is at rest. I'm not
sure which one on your machine, but it could be the same switch as on a Bally Ball Bowler. If you
can't locate the cam switch, I'll check a ball bowler's schematic..
BTW: Do you have a schematic for your machine? If so, it'll be in the "Shoot Again" light circuitry..

Okay, I just looked above. On Ball Bowlers, there's 4 or so switch stacks on the backside
of the Score Motor's cam. Maybe it's the same as yours. I think switch 10A is one of those
4 stacks on the backside. For sure the "A" in 10A represents the lower set of switches in the
stack. The one closest to the cam. It'll be a set that closes toward the end of the Score Motor's
revolution. Your schematic (or a label inside the machine) should say which stack is 10.
I'd first properly clean and gap the 10A switch..

I also see the circuit goes through the 10th Frame Unit.
I'm thinking the 10A set of switches is more likely the issue,
but maybe wouldn't hurt to clean and lube the 10th Frame
Unit's wiper board also..

Yes, You have to take off the Wiper (probably a philip head screw) and then
there's two screw you loosen, turn the wiper board slightly (in this case clockwise)
then tighten the two screws and check if it's now aliened..
Note: When taking off the Wiper's screw, hold back on the backside gear..

On the Strike/Spare lights, there's two Relays per player for the Spares and Strikes.
Their contacts need to be cleaned and adjusted properly. Even if one of the two isn't energized,
it doesn't mean one of it's sets of contacts isn't in the Strike/Spare lighting circuit that's presently
suppose to be lit..
On the Frame lights, when one of the frames are lit, go back to the Frame Unit and locate the
blade that is lighting that frame. Then step the Frame Unit up until a frame is not lit, then while
putting a little pressure on that one blade, check if one of the frames are lit. You may have to take
the wiper off and bend that one blade just a little inward so it has a little more tension on its wiper
board. You might also want to check the other blades while it's off for weak tension..

On the frame lights, I believe the common wire may go to the Frame Unit's metal frame.
You may want to check that out. Also, when a frame suppose to be lit but it's not, I'd put
a voltage meter or test light on that socket to make certain that it's not the socket..
On the Player Step up energizing when on a single player.
It sounds like once in a while the Player Up Reset Relay isn't energizing. It needs to energize
to break the circuit to the Player Unit's step up coil..
The Player Up Reset Relay's circuitry goes through the Coin and Player Step Up Units. That's how
it determines when to reset back to the 1st player. I'd first clean the Coin and Player Step Ups.
It could be a set of switches that's barely making in the Score Motor, but I'd first check those
two Step Ups..

Yes, like Mark said, there's a good chance that the Frame's Reset Coil is getting a pulse
during game play.
I'd check the Start Relay contacts. There may be an open set that's a bit too close together
and sometime slightly touches from vibration..
What's nice about Bally Bowlers, those contacts are easy to get to..