Hello! Hoping for some help.

Just bought my first pinball machine and it is a lifelong dream come true!

I have a Williams Police force, and it looks like everything is working great except for the right side flipper, which looks like someone bought a kit but installed the wrong switch from what I can see. (see pic one and two) But flipper (and side button as well) does not engage at all, and am wondering if the wrong switch at the flipper can be the issue? I am getting nothing from the side button, no movement or anything and it all looks like it is wired correct (see third pic). Basically it is just a dead flipper. I did switch out the fuses behind the back glass and the left side still worked fine.

I have been playing for years and am super excited to get into the game and clean it up and refurbish, so any help would be appreciated. I have already watched all the you tube stuff on how to rebuild the flipper, but this all looks new except for the switch being wrong so I don't want to go tearing into it until i get another couple opinions.

Thanks for any ideas and help! Police Force #williams #flipperissues

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I almost bought one today, not sure how to use it, but could get one tomorrow if you have some instructions, would be mucho appreciated!

So I picked up a DMM today. I also got some test leads and I believe that a wire in the machine is the previous test lead. Not sure where to start but i will be poking around today so any direction would be appreciated.
Thanks so much!

Both Coils all three posts measured at 76. Left one is working fine. Also, I soldered in the correct switch yesterday as the other switch didn't have the third piece like the other one that works. Pic one-New switch. Pic two-left side switch that works. Third Pic- both together.

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SO I lost the backing plate for the switch and since I was going to go to the one stronger flipper anyways, I ordered the whole right flipper assembly, soldered and installed. Nothing happening with the flipper. I did use my jump wire at my left flipper button switch and it activated the flipper, but not the right flipper button, so not sure where to go from here. Still got a dead flipper.

This morning I was putting in some new updated clear buttons, (I have been doing some work on the play-field and machine that is not mechanical while trying to figure out this electrical issue), and I had just done a bunch of OHM tests and was adjusting the new switch and when I touched the last leaf of the switch to the plunger while pressing the button and the flipper activated. SO I put a test lead on the last leaf and grounded it to the wire you told me to in the first post and the flipper would work when activated. (see picture) Weirdly, it would work even if the game wasnt in test mode or in a game mode when I pressed the flipper button but would work in test mode and game mode as well? So Not sure where to go from here. I played one game with both flippers with the jump lead grounded and everything else seemed to work fine. Help!!!! I'm almost there!!! Lol

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SO in order to do that do I disconnect the wires going in to the J5 and J10 and then connect my negative to the ground and connect my red with a test lead to both the pin 5 and 7? And do I do this with the power on?

Thanks. So you mean the board it self right? So I am testing at the pins? Not the wires going to the pins correct? Thanks again fro all your help, i have already learned a ton.

Ok so I have confirmed wiring correctly. I understand the EOS, I guess my only question is how do I know which pin number is which to test? Do I count left to right on the board? If that is the case the 2J-10 7 pin has no wire going to it. SO I guess I am confued about that. I can include a picture.

Ok attatched is what came up, i adjusted between 2000k and 200 on the OHMs and no change stayed at the 1 the whole time, as you can see board looks pretty good. Anything else I should test here before putting back in?==EDIT--SEE POST AT BOTTOM, FOUND AN ISSUE
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ok, sorry looking closer on the front it does look like the one coming off the j55 is fried. So i guess this is the issue? If that is the case, can I do what they did on the back with the red wire fro the one on the back that was fried too? Basically solder a wire form the back of each?

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Thanks so much for your help!!!! I am going to do this tomorrow and I will let you know what the result. Question. Since this red wire was done before, could it have caused this problem? Also, I am thinking that the fix they did to the other pins with the red is the way to go but have seen some online soldering and doing it direct to the board. Since I am new at this I am assuming I am safest doing the wire deal and not trying to solder direct to the board where it blew? Also, what gauge wire should I use? Thanks again, this really gave me insight on how everything works and after looking at schematics and all your help i am feeling way more confident to trace down some issues!!!!!!

Ok. I did it, installed it and it was working great for about an hour. Played off and on adjusting the flippers and switches. While playing a game the right flipper got weaker and weaker and finally wouldn't do anything. i smelled a plastic warm smell, not burning, but checked the board and solder held up and wire looked good. When I lifted up to try and adjust the flipper at the coil it wouldnt move in and out of the coil and the coil is super hot. Burned my finger. So question is, by me putting that one stronger flipper coil assembly in is that the cause or do i have another issue? UPDATe-Pulled out the Coil, as you can see it burned up inside and stopped the flipper...
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Well, I just bought a WHOLE new flipper coil assembly already!!!!!!! Basically pulled out all the old, put the new in and soldered before i did all the work. So I am doubting it is that., but I put another new coil on and am waiting for any other ideas before i resolder and try again.

Actually yes I did that. upon further, after soldering I am back at square one. I did the DC test you told me first to do and now there is nothing on the right flipper, left tests same as it did in the beginning. I also did one at the flipper button/switch and got nothing as well on the right but left tested fine. Turns out it was the fuse. Any idea what is causing this? Just wron gadjustment on EOS switch? I did adjust it before

Thanks! I think I have it adjusted there now. Going to get some SLo Blo fuses tomorrow and will give it a nother run. Also, not sure if this matters, but the fuse was a 7amp on the Right flipper and cab says it is supposed to be a 2 so not sure if that would cause it to blow and burn the flipper too.

For sure. I should have confirmed it when i pulled them the first time and switched them to test. Thanks again for all your help!!!!!

Hey Grumpy. Thanks a ton. Put my fuse in and adjusted the EOS switch. Played for about four hours off and on today adjusting and getting the flipper strength and everything adjusted. No issues. In playing I saw a couple other minor issues, The Jackpot display is not working, it has been this way from the beginning. Also the two drop targets Drug Rat and Diamond Weasel are intermittent. Sometimes they will pop back up and most of the time they wont, and when they do it is only after the game is over. Test wise seems to pop them up, so not sure but going to try and find this one on my own using the tests and tool and reading diagrams that you helped me with, but I might be posting again in a separate topic if I can't get them figured out!!!

Took the board off. Looked good, but noticed a wire came off so spliced it back and put it in an fixed!!!! Must off got pulled off by the prop.

Board ribbon cables for the jackpot, I already reseated once, but did again and still no go.Any tests I can run there?

Awesome. I will test it on Thursday when I get home. Thanks!!!

So I am testing it at the pins and it is fluctuating between -0 and -4 in just waiting mode between games, when I start the game it stays at 3.95, so I assume that means the display itself is bad? Or can it be the ribbon cable?

Sorry, I tested pin to pin the first time. I forgot you said the DC test to hook the negative to the ground. So I did that and both pins are a NEGATIVE 1

Any ideas?