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Can you post a picture of the original MPU? I sure would like to see how bad the battery corrosion is on it. If it is not too bad then, it may be worth saving.
Uhh...damn!! I was hoping it was some minor damage. One could fix it, but it will take a lot of time and parts. I already have 2 others to work on like that.
Maybe put in a wanted to buy ad for a working System 11B MPU with NO battery corrsoion. Maybe you will get lucky. I personally would stay away from the Rottendog MPU board. Those have a mind of their own.
If you find one, then I would resell this one.
Quoted from bkaelin:Now I just need to fix that switch!
Did you get that trough switch working and you're playing this Taxi now?
Quoted from bkaelin:That's nice, but I would have to replace all of the displays, right?
I found this: https://ksarcade.net/williams-7-digit-numeric-display-c-8364-1.html
which I think would do the trick.
$85 (w/o shipping) just for a single 7 digit plasma display. Wow! That is pricy. You could resell the 16 digit main display for at least $120 and that would offset the LED display set from Marco, assuming you like how the LED displays look. I have a couple of LED displays and I like them since I don't have to worry about the high voltage burning out on the power supply on top of the LED displays will last years. Guess it depends on if you want to keep the game original as possible or not.
Set meter for VDC and wedge the black meter lead between the ground braid wire and the side of the bottom cabinet. Then use the red meter lead to test each side of the coil. You should see the same voltage on each coil lug. If only one lug has voltage, you have a break in the coil somewhere.
Anytime you are taking voltage measurements, the game has to be on.
Resistance measurements you would want to do with the game off.
Quoted from bkaelin:The coil is brand new, so I would be surprised if the coil is bad.
This is not only just checking to see if the coil is bad, but this help to know that power is even getting to the power bumper at all. Power (thicker gage wire) is daisy chained from one pop bumper to another. So if you don't have power to the one, then you should have a broken power wire coming from one of the other pop bumpers.
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