Got a Taxi, fresh off the boat.
Converted to 120 power
Swapped out the acid-damaged main board with Rottendog board that I have used and tested before.
Checked, replaced and installed correct fuses on auxiliary power board, power board, etc..
Checked under playfield for obvious shorts and problems
When I power it up with all of the connectors attached, it runs quickly through some menu items, then appears to reboot, then repeats, and never goes into attract mode.
When I remove the J10 connector on the auxiliary power board, it goes into attract mode, but wont do much else. When I try to start a game, it says a ball is missing and that is about all.
See videos. Any help would be much appreciated.

Taxi power up with the all of the connectors attached.

. Taxi power up with J10 disconnected from the auxiliary power board #1

Taxi power up with J10 disconnected from the auxiliary power board #2

I reconnected J10 on the auxiliary board, and disconnected J14 from the cpu.
Result: Game goes into attract mode now. When I try to start a game, it says pinball missing....just like the third video.
What does it mean?
thanks in advance!

I realize there may be multiple issues here...
one related to booting and moving into attract mode,
and one related to the missing pinball.
and who knows what else...

So if the switches at J14 are disconnected, does that account for why the test buttons won't work?

On the other issue,
Two balls in the game.
I found a broken switch wire in the trough, so I will address that, and post back.

What about the test buttons not functioning?

Bingo! The J13 and J14 connectors were reversed!
Thanks so very much for the clarification GRUMPY, and Pinballmaniac40, and that picture really helped.

Now I just need to fix that switch!

will do asap.

Tonight I totally rebuilt the drop target assemblies, along with one pop bumper. All of the coils need new sleeves, so that is my next thing, along with the other two pops.

Also, I replaced the trough switch and the game starts up! Yeah! All of the switches are working, but the coils all need new sleeves, and of course there are a bunch of plastics that need replacing.

Oh, and I have some GI bulbs out on the right side....

and the jackpot display is dead...

Hey PinballManiac40, here are some pics of the board. What do you think? I'm hoping it is fixable/worth fixing.

IMG_7645 (resized).JPG

IMG_7646 (resized).JPG

IMG_7647 (resized).JPG

IMG_7648 (resized).JPG

IMG_7649 (resized).JPG

Actually, yes, and thanks to everyone for the advice.
It is working now, and the restoration is coming along really well.
I have to figure out why the jackpot display isn't working.
Would it be safe to swap out the jackpot display with the working jackpot display in my other Taxi?
I don't want to fry anything, but if it is safe, I could start to narrow down the problem.
This is a fun system 11 BTW. I dig it.

I swapped the display into the working game, and the display didn't work, so it must be dead.
Anyone know where I can find a new one?
thanks!

That's nice, but I would have to replace all of the displays, right?

I found this: https://ksarcade.net/williams-7-digit-numeric-display-c-8364-1.html
which I think would do the trick.

That's a good idea. I like LED displays personally. I think they look great.

Working on fixing the bell. It is currently missing the MOV (came that way, my guess is because it came from Italy).
I found a 25v MOV at my local electronics store, but this is the only one they had.....Will this do the trick?

IMG_7729 (resized).JPG

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IMG_7731 (resized).JPG

I am very open to being wrong. The manual says it is a cap, but the guy at the electronics store insisted it was a MOV, based on a picture I showed him of what is installed in my brother's game. See below. I'm ignorant on this stuff, so I tend to rely on the expertise found here on Pinside. Normally I would have just left the store, but the guy was pressuring me and said I could return it if need be.

IMG_7725 (resized).JPG

Thanks for the link. I'm ordering two (one for me, one for my brother). Just wondering...what would happen if I had connected the two red wires without the cap and powered up the game?

Got the bell working with the new capacitor. Replaced a bunch of sleeves, pop bumper ring, all three pop bumper switches/spoons are new, gapped everything nicely, and switched out some plastics. Its coming along nicely. What I need now is for just ONE of the pop bumpers to come alive. The other two work great. Nothing from one of them. Manually depressing the ring will register a score, but nothing on the pop, even in test mode.
I checked wiring, reseated connectors, checked for obvious breaks, replaced fuses, still just one pop won't fire (except for the scoring, when manually pressed.
What can I do? This is the only left to do !!!!

I bought a new switch for the bell from Marco, as per the manual, but the replacement part from Marco is NOT the correct part, it is way longer than the original switch, and doesn't fit.

What I need now is for just ONE of the pop bumpers to come alive. The other two work great. Nothing from one of them. Manually depressing the ring will register a score, but nothing on the pop, even in test mode.
I checked wiring, reseated connectors, checked for obvious breaks, replaced fuses, still just one pop won't fire (except for the scoring, when manually pressed.
What can I do? This is the only left to do !!!!

Ok, true confession time, I've worked on games for years, but everytime I deal with a live coil, I jack something up. How do I test for voltage without blowing something up?

Thanks for that. Just to clarify....game powered on, right?
The coil is brand new, so I would be surprised if the coil is bad.